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Thread: Restoration of the BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

  1. #1821
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Thanks for those photos Denise! Especially since the table saw I just bought is very similar to your setup:





    Rockwell 10" contractor saw with Unifence. It's not perfect - it needs to be cleaned up a bit and I will probably make a new extension table top for it - but it runs smooth, cuts great as far as my limited experience will let me evaluate, and was owned by a professional shipwright so I expect it was well cared-for. It also came with stack of spare blades that I haven't had a chance to go through yet.

    The previous owner has retired and is moving from a house to a condo so he's clearing out his wood shop. Hand planes, power tools, saws... I could easily have bought half of what he had available but in the end settled for the table saw, a Delta portable dust collector with enough hose to set up a shop twice the size of my small room, a nice Campbell slick and a marking gauge.





    Less than $250 for the lot. I think I did ok.
    - Chris

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  2. #1822
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    You Rock Chris! that is a perfect is so many ways! Just make a new plywood and Formica extension of get a pre built router top and fit it in! I think 27" is the magic number for table saw extensions.

    you will be able to use all the goodies that work on the unisaw as well. I don't know, but I think the arbor is the same as the Unisaw's arbor. just the HP is higher The inverted T slots work great for after market guides too.
    Denise, Bristol PA, Oday30, Anchor Yacht Club, On tidal Delaware River. my current project; http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...0-Ducker-Resto

  3. #1823

    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Congrats. As said, Perfect. Sometimes you don't buy things, you adopt them.

  4. #1824
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    With that new slick purchase, the table saw isn't needed. Just use the slick to resize the 4X4s.

  5. #1825
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    Quote Originally Posted by Psuggmog View Post
    With that new slick purchase, the table saw isn't needed. Just use the slick to resize the 4X4s.
    *Betting Chris is ankle deep in sawdust already*

    Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk
    Denise, Bristol PA, Oday30, Anchor Yacht Club, On tidal Delaware River. my current project; http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...0-Ducker-Resto

  6. #1826
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Quote Originally Posted by DeniseO30 View Post
    You Rock Chris! that is a perfect is so many ways! Just make a new plywood and Formica extension of get a pre built router top and fit it in! I think 27" is the magic number for table saw extensions.

    you will be able to use all the goodies that work on the unisaw as well. I don't know, but I think the arbor is the same as the Unisaw's arbor. just the HP is higher The inverted T slots work great for after market guides too.
    Quote Originally Posted by Downwindtracker2 View Post
    Congrats. As said, Perfect. Sometimes you don't buy things, you adopt them.
    Quote Originally Posted by Psuggmog View Post
    With that new slick purchase, the table saw isn't needed. Just use the slick to resize the 4X4s.
    Quote Originally Posted by DeniseO30 View Post
    *Betting Chris is ankle deep in sawdust already*

    Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk
    Thanks everyone. I'm pretty happy with my new toys. We had company over yesterday so I didn't get a chance to do any real work yet but I plan to this afternoon. And Psuggmog, I'm sure there are people with the skill to turn this lumber into shelves with that slick. I saw a video on Facebook a while back of some master craftsman building a faering with nothing more than a hatchet. But not me. Not now and probably not in this lifetime. I'll take all the advantages I can get!
    - Chris

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    Life is short. Go boating now!

  7. #1827
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    Quote Originally Posted by cstevens View Post
    Thanks everyone. I'm pretty happy with my new toys. We had company over yesterday so I didn't get a chance to do any real work yet but I plan to this afternoon. And Psuggmog, I'm sure there are people with the skill to turn this lumber into shelves with that slick. I saw a video on Facebook a while back of some master craftsman building a faering with nothing more than a hatchet. But not me. Not now and probably not in this lifetime. I'll take all the advantages I can get!
    Now you'll be able to cut down those 4x4s in a couple hours and have all the lumber you need for your shelves!

    One of the first things you may want to do with that table saw Chris is check the blade alignment with the T slots. We did mine years ago it's never changed since. The bolts for the trunnion underneath are not easy to access and they don't have a lot of play but we managed it.

    there's an outfit that makes alignment bolts for table saws. http://www.in-lineindustries.com/pro...ctor-saw-pals/

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    Last edited by DeniseO30; 11-13-2017 at 11:15 AM.
    Denise, Bristol PA, Oday30, Anchor Yacht Club, On tidal Delaware River. my current project; http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...0-Ducker-Resto

  8. #1828
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    ^^^ Thanks Denise. The PALS kit looks great. It's always possible that my saw has had that done already though, so I should check first.
    - Chris

    https://fvpetrel.wordpress.com

    Life is short. Go boating now!

  9. #1829
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Last year I was playing with crosscut sled making for the segmented turnings I like to make. I found it cumbersome and went back to using the incra miter guage for the 15 degree cuts. I did make some picture frames with the 45 degree sled. the miter saw I have is not accurate enough for cuts like that anymore
    Denise, Bristol PA, Oday30, Anchor Yacht Club, On tidal Delaware River. my current project; http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...0-Ducker-Resto

  10. #1830
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Started work on the shelves today. First task was to cut the posts to length.



    I think my best option here was a circular saw, which meant two passes (or more as it turned out) to cut through the 4x4 posts. Before making the first cut I checked my saw to make sure the blade was perpendicular to the shoe but I didn't do it quite well enough...



    I adjusted the angle after that and got it closer, but the first cut was still off by a little bit. For the first post I just flipped it over and made a second cut from the other side, but the bad angle meant that I was left with a bit of a kerf.



    Not too bad though - I can clean that up easily enough. For the next three posts I made three cuts, rotating the piece 90 degrees each time. That helped correct the original problem and the remaining pieces came out much cleaner.



    Posts cut, pending cleanup:

    - Chris

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    Life is short. Go boating now!

  11. #1831
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Next I finished setting up the table saw I bought yesterday and ripped the off cuts from the posts to make the sides and shelf supports. I followed Denise's directions as closely as I could...









    I'm a little annoyed at myself as I got the grain orientation wrong on one of the pieces but I should have extras so it's not critical. And my new table saw worked great! Next step is to cut the mortises in the posts. A project for tomorrow.
    Last edited by cstevens; 11-13-2017 at 08:59 PM.
    - Chris

    https://fvpetrel.wordpress.com

    Life is short. Go boating now!

  12. #1832
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    Quote Originally Posted by cstevens View Post
    Next I finished setting up the table saw I bought yesterday and ripped the off cuts from the posts to make the sides and shelf supports. I followed Denise's directions as closely as I could...









    I'm a little annoyed at myself as I got the grain orientation wrong on one of the pieces but I should have extras so it's not critical. And my new table saw worked great! Next step is to cut the mortises in the posts. A project for tomorrow.
    Very pro Looking Chris!! I'm assuming you're going to use a router to cut the mortises? Many people use a guide which can work well until one makes the inevitable oops! Because you have to cut so many, maybe you could consider a plywood or pine jig that can be clamped on the sticks squarely and securely. The slot in the jig would slightly oversize depending which router bit and guide collar you select. Oh and consider this! through mortise cuts could allow you to join the shelves side by side. (Gad I love this stuff)

    I don't know if you remember the photo, a while back I made a hinge mortise jig to clamp on the edge of a passage door I was re-purposing. Worked too!
    Jump to about 10:25 on this boring but he splains zit vell!


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    Last edited by DeniseO30; 11-13-2017 at 09:48 PM.
    Denise, Bristol PA, Oday30, Anchor Yacht Club, On tidal Delaware River. my current project; http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...0-Ducker-Resto

  13. #1833
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Thanks Denise. I do remember your hinge jig! That was a while back... I could use the router, but then I also have this new (to me) drill press so I was thinking I could drill the mortises and then clean them up with a chisel. Or I might do some with the drill press and some with the router just to practice a few different techniques and become familiar with various tools, since that's one of my goals for this project. I have options in any case.
    - Chris

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    Life is short. Go boating now!

  14. #1834
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Just checked out that video Denise. That sure looks easy with the router. But then there's old-school...



    I might try that as well just for the practice with a chisel.
    - Chris

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    Life is short. Go boating now!

  15. #1835
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    You can rough out the mortises with a drill press and a slightly undersized bit, then use a router and template for cleanup.
    I like to minimize my router time and it's easier on me and the router.


    The big spike knot (weak) that you exposed after ripping, is one of the reasons not to get little parts out of heavy material ie. It is graded as a whole piece and that knot probably wouldn't have made a 'construction grade' 2x4.

    Great table saw, BTW.
    Is the back of that plywood throat plate flush with the top of the table?
    It needs to be or your material can hook on the edge of the table and stop your cut in a most distressing way.
    Also, if it isn't a snug fit, it should have a tab at the back end to keep it from getting out of its recess and being thrown at you.

    Hey Denise,
    Do you like that Incra mitre gauge?
    I have some stock Delta ones which are rarely used since they are crappy and I have other options.
    R
    Sleep with one eye open.

  16. #1836
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Williamson View Post
    You can rough out the mortises with a drill press and a slightly undersized bit, then use a router and template for cleanup.
    I like to minimize my router time and it's easier on me and the router.


    The big spike knot (weak) that you exposed after ripping, is one of the reasons not to get little parts out of heavy material ie. It is graded as a whole piece and that knot probably wouldn't have made a 'construction grade' 2x4.

    Great table saw, BTW.
    Is the back of that plywood throat plate flush with the top of the table?
    It needs to be or your material can hook on the edge of the table and stop your cut in a most distressing way.
    Also, if it isn't a snug fit, it should have a tab at the back end to keep it from getting out of its recess and being thrown at you.

    Hey Denise,
    Do you like that Incra mitre gauge?
    I have some stock Delta ones which are rarely used since they are crappy and I have other options.
    R
    I've done mortises in all the above ways mentioned. But again because Chris has to cut so many, taking the time to make a guide and using an upcut spiral bit with a collar every mortise will be exact. He could even leave the corners round and I just round the corners of the tenons with a chisel or a rasp. Because the router bit moves around, the whole mortise it doesn't leave the mess a drill bit leaves. Even a dedicated mortising machine requires clean up with chisel after.

    I love that incra! I've had it for near 20 yrs also!

    You doing great Chris!

    Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by DeniseO30; 11-14-2017 at 09:29 AM.
    Denise, Bristol PA, Oday30, Anchor Yacht Club, On tidal Delaware River. my current project; http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...0-Ducker-Resto

  17. #1837
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Williamson View Post
    You can rough out the mortises with a drill press and a slightly undersized bit, then use a router and template for cleanup.
    I like to minimize my router time and it's easier on me and the router.


    The big spike knot (weak) that you exposed after ripping, is one of the reasons not to get little parts out of heavy material ie. It is graded as a whole piece and that knot probably wouldn't have made a 'construction grade' 2x4.

    Great table saw, BTW.
    Is the back of that plywood throat plate flush with the top of the table?
    It needs to be or your material can hook on the edge of the table and stop your cut in a most distressing way.
    Also, if it isn't a snug fit, it should have a tab at the back end to keep it from getting out of its recess and being thrown at you.

    Hey Denise,
    Do you like that Incra mitre gauge?
    I have some stock Delta ones which are rarely used since they are crappy and I have other options.
    R
    Quote Originally Posted by DeniseO30 View Post
    I've done mortises in all the above ways mentioned. But again because Chris has to cut so many, taking the time to make a guide and using an upcut spiral bit with a collar every mortise will be exact. He could even leave the corners round and I just round the corners of the tenons with a chisel or a rasp. Because the router bit moves around, the whole mortise it doesn't leave the mess a drill bit leaves. Even a dedicated mortising machine requires clean up with chisel after.

    I love that incra! I've had it for near 20 yrs also!

    You doing great Chris!

    Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk

    Thanks Ron and Denise. Ron, I'll take a close look at the throat insert. Good tip! I'd like to replace it with a new zero clearance plate any case. I'm starting a list of upgrades for the table saw. New zero clearance plate, better miter gauge, new extension table with a router plate, better stand/dust collection cabinet. It works great the way it is now but I can make it even better with a few changes.

    And good point about the knots. In general I think the lumber I'm using is decent, with mostly small knots and I can cut to avoid large knots like that one. I also have more than I need for the shelves so I can be picky about which pieces I use. But it's true that I would have less waste with better quality lumber.

    As for the mortises, I have 32 of them to cut so I'm going to try a few different methods just for the practice but I agree that a template, a plunge router and a spiral bit will probably be the best option.
    - Chris

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    Life is short. Go boating now!

  18. #1838
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    Quote Originally Posted by cstevens View Post
    Thanks Ron and Denise. Ron, I'll take a close look at the throat insert. Good tip! I'd like to replace it with a new zero clearance plate any case. I'm starting a list of upgrades for the table saw. New zero clearance plate, better miter gauge, new extension table with a router plate, better stand/dust collection cabinet. It works great the way it is now but I can make it even better with a few changes.

    And good point about the knots. In general I think the lumber I'm using is decent, with mostly small knots and I can cut to avoid large knots like that one. I also have more than I need for the shelves so I can be picky about which pieces I use. But it's true that I would have less waste with better quality lumber.

    As for the mortises, I have 32 of them to cut so I'm going to try a few different methods just for the practice but I agree that a template, a plunge router and a spiral bit will probably be the best option.
    You have some high quality Lumber there Chris!

    Because there isn't a riving knife available for the delta contractor saws I picked up one of these but it's still sitting in the cabinet. 2years near about lol
    http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/reviews/

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    Denise, Bristol PA, Oday30, Anchor Yacht Club, On tidal Delaware River. my current project; http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...0-Ducker-Resto

  19. #1839

    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    The guard on my saw was designed by an accountant. He should be run over the saw a few dozen times for his crimes against humanity. I took it off after trying to use it for a day. However, I kept the splitter and anti kick back pawls parts. I hate being a safety nanny, but a splitter would be the first addition. And never, never put your hand behind the blade. A support of some sort improves accuracy and removes the temptation. I use UHMW strips instead of rollers. It's cheap and non directional.

  20. #1840
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Build or get an outfeed table and place.it or bolt it close to the saw.
    The ability to finish a cut peacefully,when you're most vulnerable(hand past the blade), and not have a long rip try to lever the far end to the floor and the near end into the top teeth(the dangerous ones) of the blade,is very important.

    I have found remote outfeed supports get pushed around by drooping lumber and cause more grief than they are worth.
    R
    Sleep with one eye open.

  21. #1841
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Quote Originally Posted by DeniseO30 View Post
    You have some high quality Lumber there Chris!

    Because there isn't a riving knife available for the delta contractor saws I picked up one of these but it's still sitting in the cabinet. 2years near about lol
    http://www.microjig.com/products/mj-splitter/reviews/

    Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk
    Thanks Denise. That Microjig splitter looks like it would work for me as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Downwindtracker2 View Post
    The guard on my saw was designed by an accountant. He should be run over the saw a few dozen times for his crimes against humanity. I took it off after trying to use it for a day. However, I kept the splitter and anti kick back pawls parts. I hate being a safety nanny, but a splitter would be the first addition. And never, never put your hand behind the blade. A support of some sort improves accuracy and removes the temptation. I use UHMW strips instead of rollers. It's cheap and non directional.
    Thanks Ray. I have a very healthy fear of that blade so I'm careful to keep all body parts well away, but I would like to find a splitter for it. That's on my list for sure. I'm not sure what you mean by a support though? Do you mean an outfeed support/table?

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Williamson View Post
    Build or get an outfeed table and place.it or bolt it close to the saw.
    The ability to finish a cut peacefully,when you're most vulnerable(hand past the blade), and not have a long rip try to lever the far end to the floor and the near end into the top teeth(the dangerous ones) of the blade,is very important.

    I have found remote outfeed supports get pushed around by drooping lumber and cause more grief than they are worth.
    R
    Ron, I like this quote about saw teeth: "the dangerous ones" As far as I'm concerned they are all dangerous! But I agree about the outfeed table. Also on my list. I made a simple outfeed support from a table saw and some scrap for ripping the short pieces I did last night (you can see it in the background of the photos I posted). That worked fine but I will definitely want something more robust than that when I rip the longer pieces for the sides.
    - Chris

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  22. #1842
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    While not a professional woodworker, I've been in a number of different shops. The best outfeed table I've seen (& in this case used) is a standalone table covered in formica (smooth for boards sliding), the width of the entire table saw & about 10 ft. long. It's bolted to the saw base and about 1/8" lower so it never snags a board.

    Yeah you have to have the space, but it sure is nice!
    "If it ain't broke, you're not trying." - Red Green

  23. #1843
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    Quote Originally Posted by cstevens View Post
    Thanks Denise. That Microjig splitter looks like it would work for me as well.



    Thanks Ray. I have a very healthy fear of that blade so I'm careful to keep all body parts well away, but I would like to find a splitter for it. That's on my list for sure. I'm not sure what you mean by a support though? Do you mean an outfeed support/table?



    Ron, I like this quote about saw teeth: "the dangerous ones" As far as I'm concerned they are all dangerous! But I agree about the outfeed table. Also on my list. I made a simple outfeed support from a table saw and some scrap for ripping the short pieces I did last night (you can see it in the background of the photos I posted). That worked fine but I will definitely want something more robust than that when I rip the longer pieces for the sides.
    Over the years I've come to realize an out feed table works well for General Woodworking and ripping but boat builder part of me when dealing with long skinny pieces of lumber I have found rollers for in and out feed work well, if not better.

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    Denise, Bristol PA, Oday30, Anchor Yacht Club, On tidal Delaware River. my current project; http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...0-Ducker-Resto

  24. #1844

    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Ron's idea of table is a good support. Because of space constraints, I made a couple 16" T-posts out of 1x4 with a strip of UHMW across the top. The bases look like I pulled them off a harvest trestle table. As I said UHMW is non directional, so long as they don't fall over, they are good. I don't understand how the same double garage space keeps getting smaller. So now the newly rebuilt 3hp wood shaper sits behind the saw.

    If you use something like formica for the table top, the wood will glide. I find it makes for more accurate cuts. I wax my tablesaw top before any important project.

  25. #1845
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Quote Originally Posted by Garret View Post
    While not a professional woodworker, I've been in a number of different shops. The best outfeed table I've seen (& in this case used) is a standalone table covered in formica (smooth for boards sliding), the width of the entire table saw & about 10 ft. long. It's bolted to the saw base and about 1/8" lower so it never snags a board.

    Yeah you have to have the space, but it sure is nice!
    Quote Originally Posted by DeniseO30 View Post
    Over the years I've come to realize an out feed table works well for General Woodworking and ripping but boat builder part of me when dealing with long skinny pieces of lumber I have found rollers for in and out feed work well, if not better.

    Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk

    I'm actually thinking a little of both. A small-ish outfeed table that I can bolt on so it won't move around but that would be removable since I don't have a ton of space, and then a roller stand for longer stuff as well.
    - Chris

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  26. #1846
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Quote Originally Posted by Downwindtracker2 View Post
    Ron's idea of table is a good support. Because of space constraints, I made a couple 16" T-posts out of 1x4 with a strip of UHMW across the top. The bases look like I pulled them off a harvest trestle table. As I said UHMW is non directional, so long as they don't fall over, they are good. I don't understand how the same double garage space keeps getting smaller. So now the newly rebuilt 3hp wood shaper sits behind the saw.

    If you use something like formica for the table top, the wood will glide. I find it makes for more accurate cuts. I wax my tablesaw top before any important project.

    I like the idea of DIY support T-posts too... And yes to formica for the extension and outfeed tables. Plenty of things to do then!
    - Chris

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    Life is short. Go boating now!

  27. #1847
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Paid a visit to my local Rockler store this afternoon to pick up a few things. And I learned something. It's not the tools that break the budget. It's the accessories!



    (I guess I knew that already from other activities - it's the same no matter what you are doing - but still I spent more on these few bits than I did on the table saw and the drill press combined). But now I think I have everything I need to cut mortises using a router and a template or a drill press, and I can try a few different ways of doing it. I also spent some time organizing the workshop. Still need the shelves to get it really set up but it's better - as shown in these before and after shots.





    It's finally starting to look like a place where boat work is done.
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    Life is short. Go boating now!

  28. #1848
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Wait, what? Boat work?

    It is starting to look like a very nice work space but it’s way too clean!
    -Jim

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  29. #1849
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    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    If you can shoehorn your router and your dust collector into the space under your extension table,you will save space and not have 4" hose running on the floor.
    Does the bag on the dust collector have an easy way to empty it?
    Most don't and are quite tiresome and messy when the time comes.
    It is quite simple to build a removable collector box to catch the worst of it before it gets into the bag.
    Speaking of that,that bag won't do much to stop the most damaging particles from getting into the air.
    It should be upgraded as well.
    R
    Sleep with one eye open.

  30. #1850
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Norwalk CT
    Posts
    689

    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    If youre halfway handy you can b uild a hinged outfeed table that will drop down when you dont need it. Splurge on a length of aluminum T track so your mitre gauge cun run off onto the outfeed as well. My outfeed tables have all had gloss formica as the working surface.
    Rollers have a nasty habit of directing the stock in random directions. Ball bearing feed stands or the simple hdpp slide stands work better in my opinion. They can be stqbilized by adding weights to the stands. I use steel exercise weights; they fit right over the center support.

  31. #1851
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    1,706

    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Quote Originally Posted by jsjpd1 View Post
    Wait, what? Boat work?

    It is starting to look like a very nice work space but it’s way too clean!
    It does seem like I'm doing everything but boat work the last few days. Sigh. But all this fiddling with mortises, tenons and straight sticks will be useful when I get back to Petrel. I'm getting a crash course in woodworking! As for too clean - yes, but I have this touch of OCD and I am completely unable to function in a mess (the "before" picture above notwithstanding). I have to clean the kitchen before I can cook dinner and I have to clean the shop before I can work in it. It's a quirk, and one that does not always serve me well since the real world tends to be messy. I spend a lot of time cleaning and organizing in relation to time spent in productive effort.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Williamson View Post
    If you can shoehorn your router and your dust collector into the space under your extension table,you will save space and not have 4" hose running on the floor.
    Does the bag on the dust collector have an easy way to empty it?
    Most don't and are quite tiresome and messy when the time comes.
    It is quite simple to build a removable collector box to catch the worst of it before it gets into the bag.
    Speaking of that,that bag won't do much to stop the most damaging particles from getting into the air.
    It should be upgraded as well.
    R
    Good thought Ron - thanks! I do think the router and dust collector would both fit there and you're right, that would save quite a bit of room. I haven't set up the dust collector yet (next task) but I don't see any provision for easily emptying it. A collector box (maybe with a cyclone?) seems like a good addition. So that's going on the list now as well. Small particle filtration is another thing. It looks like the original bag for the Delta unit I have is NLA and there are no obvious replacements or upgrades. So I might have to adapt something. Or I might be able to install a filter. More thinking needed there.

    Quote Originally Posted by willin woodworks View Post
    If youre halfway handy you can b uild a hinged outfeed table that will drop down when you dont need it. Splurge on a length of aluminum T track so your mitre gauge cun run off onto the outfeed as well. My outfeed tables have all had gloss formica as the working surface.
    Rollers have a nasty habit of directing the stock in random directions. Ball bearing feed stands or the simple hdpp slide stands work better in my opinion. They can be stqbilized by adding weights to the stands. I use steel exercise weights; they fit right over the center support.
    Well I'm not sure if I'm halfway handy yet, but I'm working on it I agree that a folding outfeed table with t-track would be better than a removable table but it would need a fixed section long enough to clear the motor, which sticks out a foot or so. I'll have to noodle on that a bit and see whether a folding extension would be handier than something I could remove completely.
    - Chris

    https://fvpetrel.wordpress.com

    Life is short. Go boating now!

  32. #1852
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    se pa (Bristol PA)
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    2,054

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by willin woodworks View Post
    If youre halfway handy you can b uild a hinged outfeed table that will drop down when you dont need it. Splurge on a length of aluminum T track so your mitre gauge cun run off onto the outfeed as well. My outfeed tables have all had gloss formica as the working surface.
    Rollers have a nasty habit of directing the stock in random directions. Ball bearing feed stands or the simple hdpp slide stands work better in my opinion. They can be stqbilized by adding weights to the stands. I use steel exercise weights; they fit right over the center support.
    Doing good Chris! I have to stay out of the high-end woodworking stores! MLCS, woodcraft are all less then an hr from me.

    Here on the forum it be like everybody's going to tell you what they do, and you must, just take it for a grain of salt.

    Feather boards are easy to make and solve many of the in out feed & kickback problems.

    Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk
    Denise, Bristol PA, Oday30, Anchor Yacht Club, On tidal Delaware River. my current project; http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...0-Ducker-Resto

  33. #1853

    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    And I learned something. It's not the tools that break the budget. It's the accessories! My perceptive wife mentioned the very same thing about my hunting rifles. Machine tooling is a 100x worse.

    A dust collector just gets the dust you can see. Not a bad thing in a basement workshop, it helps pass the admiral's white glove inspections up stairs. However the fine dust you can't see that does damage to the lungs. Here in the PNW, we can get away with just putting a fan in the doorway to the outside and change the air.

  34. #1854
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    Jan 2009
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    se pa (Bristol PA)
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Downwindtracker2 View Post
    And I learned something. It's not the tools that break the budget. It's the accessories! My perceptive wife mentioned the very same thing about my hunting rifles. Machine tooling is a 100x worse.

    A dust collector just gets the dust you can see. Not a bad thing in a basement workshop, it helps pass the admiral's white glove inspections up stairs. However the fine dust you can't see that does damage to the lungs. Here in the PNW, we can get away with just putting a fan in the doorway to the outside and change the air.
    http://www.finewoodworking.com/2010/...me-is-unifence Dunno that it's a spiritual experience using the delta unifence but I've come to love it over the years even though I don't do a whole lot of woodworking anymore.

    Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk was
    Denise, Bristol PA, Oday30, Anchor Yacht Club, On tidal Delaware River. my current project; http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...0-Ducker-Resto

  35. #1855
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,706

    Default Re: Restoration of BC Salmon Troller "Petrel"

    Quote Originally Posted by DeniseO30 View Post
    Doing good Chris! I have to stay out of the high-end woodworking stores! MLCS, woodcraft are all less then an hr from me.

    Here on the forum it be like everybody's going to tell you what they do, and you must, just take it for a grain of salt.

    Feather boards are easy to make and solve many of the in out feed & kickback problems.

    Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk
    Thanks Denise. The saw came with a Kreg feather board. I didn't use it when I ripped the first set of cross pieces but I can see how it would help. I'll set it up and use it going forward.

    Quote Originally Posted by Downwindtracker2 View Post
    And I learned something. It's not the tools that break the budget. It's the accessories! My perceptive wife mentioned the very same thing about my hunting rifles. Machine tooling is a 100x worse.

    A dust collector just gets the dust you can see. Not a bad thing in a basement workshop, it helps pass the admiral's white glove inspections up stairs. However the fine dust you can't see that does damage to the lungs. Here in the PNW, we can get away with just putting a fan in the doorway to the outside and change the air.
    Good point. I have a respirator. Which I hate using, but I like the lungs I was born with so I generally do wear it. Guess I should change "generally" to "always" though. And an exhaust fan is on my list but I need to take out a window to install one so that's not going to happen right away.

    Quote Originally Posted by DeniseO30 View Post
    http://www.finewoodworking.com/2010/...me-is-unifence Dunno that it's a spiritual experience using the delta unifence but I've come to love it over the years even though I don't do a whole lot of woodworking anymore.

    Sent from my LG-M430 using Tapatalk was
    Yes, I saw that post when I was looking for information on how to use the fence. That guy really loves his Unifence! I don't have anything to compare it to, but I thought mine worked great. Easy to set up and rock solid.

    And on a separate note there hasn't been much boat-related content here recently so I'll just put this here:



    (Photo by Tad Roberts, from his Facebook Page)

    Fan Isle. An ex-Troller built by Wahl for sale up in Powell River. I really like these big Wahl trollers. Classic lines.
    - Chris

    https://fvpetrel.wordpress.com

    Life is short. Go boating now!

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