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Thread: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

  1. #1
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    Default Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Time to start my Argie15 build thread. There Are some Great Argie 15 threads here if you want to learn how to do this properly 😀 so this is Just a logging of my progress.
    Here is the transom and one of the side panels. I laminate the panels in spruce veneer, and glass on both sides before I stich them together. I am now in the process of glassing the panels. I made some veneers of a mahagony plank I have, for the transom. Transom Will be finished bright, but the rest Will be painted.

    The plan is to do the hull this summer, and details, rigging, and launching next summebr />
    Refards Fred

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  2. #2
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Congratulations Fred. That's a beautiful start. If you carry on like that people will be coming to your thread to see how it should be done.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Thanks Roy. The mahogany plank I use is driftwood, the father in law of my father in law found 50 years ago. I made a little curve on the top of the transom, and will make a curve on the tiller too. All about why I glue panels instead of using plywood here : http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...els&highlight=

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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Welcome to the club. I look forward to reading your blog. It's interesting to see how regional variations in materials translate into the way builders get the job done.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Good start Fred, will be interesting to see how your laminated panels work out. Nice transom!

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    I looked at your other page. Are you building your own panels by glueing plies of mahogany together - three or five I presume. Alternatively, are they strip planked with fiberglass lamination on both sides?

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    I had a plan building a boat cold-molding spruce veener I am milling myself. I changed my mind, and decided to use this veneers to make this panels. It is only two layers 3 mm plies. In the other thread I tested this to see if they are strong enough for a stich and glue build. For the transom I just added thin mahogany veneers for the apperance. I was curious about this method, and I like the process.

  8. #8
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    But tomorrow we Are going to fix my friends old boat. He need it to join me in a raid, and I soon need to clear the workshop for the Argie 😀


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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    I vaguely remember there's some reason structural plywood veneers are in odd numbered - 3 or 5. Anyone?

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    You are right capefox, but here the veneers are more like a core material between the fiberglass sheets. They also lay in the same direction, so I am not making plywood.

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  11. #11
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    My simple but very funktional epoxy spreader. The top of an icebox cut and nailed to plywood. 😃

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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Ingenious.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    This is a very interesting thread. Thanks for explaining how you're making your panels. Everything makes sense now. We're very lucky to have access to 4' x 8' Meranti marine panels at around $60 here in the SW United States. Your adverse supply situation has made you very innovative in deed.

  14. #14
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    Something looking familiar Argie friends?


    Soon ready to stich the hull. Summer travels and guests made the build stall a couple of weeks. But now I am back to it...😀


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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    That's looking really nice Fred. I think you're off to a good start and will likely show the rest of us how it should be done. It'll be very interesting to compare final weight when you get finished.

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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Moving along nicely. And Norway is the home of my favorite band, A-ha.

  17. #17
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    Stiching the hull today. i used plastic strips, and it worked well. The panels bend nicely. There was some gaps, at the transom, and I will do some fine adjustments tomorrow. Really fun to make the shape of the boat in one day, and i am almost fooling myself to think this will be a fast build, but all the work is in the details i guess.



    Bulkheads not stiched yet





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    Last edited by Fredostli; 08-09-2016 at 02:18 PM.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    OK, now you have to slow down. You're making the rest of us look bad! Seriously though, I'm impressed. It's looking really good.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Roy, right now I am looking at your thread, and I think you have a high quality build few can match. Epoxy will be my best friend making this boat look good in the end I am not in the stage taking closeup`s yet I have some gaps to sort out at the stem and transom before i start gluing it together.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Awesome. This is a great building blog.

  21. #21
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    I am using plastic strips, and I dont need to remove them. Is it a bad idea to stich the bulkheads/Seat risers also, before I glue it all together?

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  22. #22
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    That's something where people differ. I glued all the hull seams on mine before installing any bulkheads or risers because it was easier to glue long, uninterrupted seams. Others have done it the way you're suggesting. I don't think there's a right answer. From the building threads I've seen for Argies and other boats I don't think it matters. They all end up looking great.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    I second Roy's approach of tab welding with temporarily fitted (hot glue in place) bulkheads. Remember to brace the temporary bulkheads with 2 x 2 staves and clamps so that the pressure of the hull panels does not cause them to bow. Once the hull is tab welded with small epoxy fillets, the temporary bulkheads and stitches can be removed (isopropyl alcohol removes hot glue easily) as long as the hull is properly braced with 2 x 2 staves and clamps. No bulkheads in place makes filleting and taping much easier. I'm actually in favor of making the temporary bulkheads from expendable materials and then spiling the actual bulkheads in after the hull panels have been filleted and taped. Spiling allows one to to create bulkheads and seat tops that fit amazingly precisely.
    Last edited by capefox; 08-10-2016 at 11:29 AM.

  24. #24
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    Aha!, or A-ha 😉 Now I see why some bulkheads seems to have a perfect fit. I made the bulkheads already, so its not an option here. Next build I do it that way.

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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Quote Originally Posted by Fredostli View Post
    Aha!, or A-ha  Now I see why some bulkheads seems to have a perfect fit. I made the bulkheads already, so its not an option here. Next build I do it that way.

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    Don't worry, lots of people do it that way too. Just get the best fit you can. When you fillet and tape the bulkheads in place, any gaps around the bulkheads will be covered and filled.

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    I decided to fillet and tape the planks and bulkheads together and started the job today. It feels good to fill those small gaps, knowing it starts to become a solid hull.

    Let me share what I plan further: I have been thinking about how to get the good wooden feel to the boat, and i want to have seats and side benches i wood that is only treated with oil. I have that in my Nordlandsboaat, and it gives this warm feeling, and it does not get slippery when vet. The aft and mid seat must be watertight compartments, so I am thinking about making thin boards in pine or spruce and screw them on top of the seats. I will not have watertight compartments under the side seats, so i will make them in pine or spruce and treat them with oil

    For the sheer I will laminate pine. I might stain it with some waterbased stain before i epoxy it to give it a more colour.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    As long as you don't leave any epoxy fillets or laminated glass exposed to sunlight, the oil sounds acceptable. Otherwise at least six coats of spar varnish is the conventional wisdom. I'm sure you know what you're doing and this boat will be a beauty.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    I will build the seats as usual, and might even paint them before mounting the oiled boards on top. This will ofcourse add a little weight, but I dont think it matters. maybe I should lover the seat risers corresponding to the thickness of the boards...

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Quote Originally Posted by Fredostli View Post
    I decided to fillet and tape the planks and bulkheads together and started the job today. It feels good to fill those small gaps, knowing it starts to become a solid hull.

    Let me share what I plan further: I have been thinking about how to get the good wooden feel to the boat, and i want to have seats and side benches i wood that is only treated with oil. I have that in my Nordlandsboaat, and it gives this warm feeling, and it does not get slippery when vet. The aft and mid seat must be watertight compartments, so I am thinking about making thin boards in pine or spruce and screw them on top of the seats. I will not have watertight compartments under the side seats, so i will make them in pine or spruce and treat them with oil

    For the sheer I will laminate pine. I might stain it with some waterbased stain before i epoxy it to give it a more colour.
    I had thought of laminating the sheer but ended up using solid fir and bending it. I actually found that I could bend it without heat or steam and it held up real good. I did invent in a single 2x4 18' long and cut my pieces from it. I ended up with a little over 3/4" on the outside of the hulol and 1/2" on the inside. I think it came out great and I ended up without the stress of laminating.
    my seats were all 1/4" okoume with filets at the seams and fiberglass on the top. I finished off the edges with stained oak that I got from Lowes.

    All looks great on your boat much better looking than mine at that stage.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Thanks Dennis. I believe photos of other builds sometimes make it look better than it is, because you dont always show the less good looking parts of it. That counts for mine. But I put my trust in epoxy fillets

    Fir/pine bends well, and I consider laminating two battens instead of four, as shown on the plans. Then I will have one batten on the inside, and a thin batten on the top, to hide the edges. I think laminating will be stronger and contribute to define the shape of the boat too...


  31. #31
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    That is one nice looking boat you're building. My gunwales are cherry and I found they wouldn't conform to the hull shape and the sheer if I left them 3/4 inch. I stripped them in half and have two pieces laminated on the outside and another two laminated on the inside.

  32. #32
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Way to go Fred! It getting hull stitched up is a quick process from cut panels. There be a lot of bogging and sanding in your future! Your panels seem to be bending well and fair from your pictures. More power to your elbow.

  33. #33
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    Dry-fitting and makings parts, waiting for more epoxy. The battens on the risers are vider than on the plans, but it is a part of my secret plan for making the seats.


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  34. #34
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    Seeing the pile of offcuts in the background makes me feel much better about the mess in my workshop.

    Great work by the way. I think yours is going to be a class build to inspire other Argie builders.

  35. #35
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    Default Re: Argie 15 - Norwegian attemt

    If we have a contest in showing pics with mess, junk and offcuts, I am confident i will beat you Roy!!!

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