Page 8 of 12 FirstFirst ... 789 ... LastLast
Results 246 to 280 of 386

Thread: A Whiily Tern in Oz

  1. #246
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Thanks Graeme....and the thoughts on the floorboards are appreciated as well.
    I was a bit surprised when you mentioned the myrtle and questioned its hardness and suitability for the floorboards. I had not previously looked at its hardness rating; just found it quite hard and very easy to work. Anyway, the Janka hardness of myrtle is 6. This compares to 4.5 for celery top pine (used here for cleats and floors) and 11 for spotted gum which will be used for the mast step.
    So will probably stay with the myrtle...just need my contact to come good with a stash.
    PeterW

  2. #247
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    More work in the heat of the last 2 days. The 3 deckbeams for the aft buoyancy tank have been glued in. The next step here will be to add knees under the beams, glue in the kingplank and the front face of the tank.

    PeterW

  3. #248
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Rushworth Australia
    Posts
    2,508

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Those compound bevels on deckbeams etc are fun aren't they Peter, especially when there's one both ends!

  4. #249
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Yep ..heaps of fun. The piece of paper in the above pic was the 'feeler gauge' Used to get the best fit. An added complication was the bevel on top of each beam; these will be finished with a batten before attaching the top of the buoyancy tank. The more difficult compound bevels on this build were on the ends of the inwales and rubbing strips where they terminated at the external stems: 12 in total to fit.
    PeterW

  5. #250
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Northern NSW Australia
    Posts
    62,857

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    and not much epoxy working time at 30C is there ?
    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  6. #251
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Especially when it is 37C +. Small batches of glue and make sure the sweat doesn't drip into the mix.
    PeterW

  7. #252
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    More work on the fore and aft tanks. I have added approx 3/4" (20mm) crown to the inner edges of the tanks (on centreline) so that the tops of the tanks would not look concave when done.
    My next question is whether I build hatches on the top of the tanks or on the vertical faces. There are pros and cons for each and at the moment I am leaning slightly toward hatches on the vertical faces.

    I would be grateful for advice from those who have experience of this and what led to the choice made.

    Here are the 2 options I am considering:



    Thanks in advance for the suggestions/comments.
    PeterW

  8. #253
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Picked up some douglas fir today for the spars. Pieces are clears with very nice grain patterns and will be enough for the mast, boom and yard (lug rig). Floorboard to be picked up tomorrow hopefully.
    Other work has slowed a bit while I chase around for some rudder gudgeons and pintles. The gudgeons are a bit hard to come by as they need to be a 'u' shape (like the pintles) to fit the aft stem. Classic Marine (UK) has a flush fitting gudgeon that may do the job. Mast will be 2 staves per side and hollow, while the boom and yard will be solid.



    PeterW

  9. #254
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Northern NSW Australia
    Posts
    62,857

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Making the spars will be fun Peter !
    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  10. #255
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Port Stephens
    Posts
    15,612

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Have you tried Wooden Boat Fittings from Canberra?

    http://www.woodenboatfittings.com.au/

    Rick

  11. #256
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Yes ...have an email in to them at the moment.
    Looking forward to the spar making....sharpen up the planes and find the spar gauge!
    PeterW

  12. #257
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Made a sample for the mast so that I could test out the amount of hollow and the lamination plan. The mast has a max thickness of 2 3/4" on a 14ft length (lug rig). The sample came out with a wall thickness of about 27% which is a bit conservative but I will probably go with something like that on the real thing. Boom and yard will be hollow as well: 'bit fussy but yard will be lighter for it and I could not get the size of Doug Fir to do the boom in a solid piece.



    Need better orientation of grain on a couple of pieces here.



    PeterW

  13. #258
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Northern NSW Australia
    Posts
    62,857

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    That mast section looks very good Peter.
    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  14. #259
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Thanks Peter. It was the result of a fair amount of doodling, rubbing out and 'false starts' before I even got to the sample piece.
    The heat today meant it was not great in the shed but I made a start on the first 2 floorboards on the port side. The first one was the most fiddly and needed 2 patterns (card and then MDF) before cutting the blackbutt boards.
    The plans called for 5 3/4" floorboards. I could only get 4 3/4" so the trade-off may be a third floorboard is needed on each side.



    PeterW

  15. #260
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Made a start on the rudder: this will be a pivoting board made of 2 layers of 1/2" ply with 1/2" cheek pieces and 1" filler piece. Hopefully picking up some hardware this weekend. Plans were drawn full size on a piece of corflute board.


    PeterW

  16. #261
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    More work on the rudder. I am hoping to pick up some hardware on Saturday.

    PeterW

  17. #262
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Providence, RI USA
    Posts
    1,212

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Hi Peter. Looking great!

    I noticed your floorboard spacing is quite wide, which is the way Iain has drawn it. I made mine quite a bit smaller, maybe 1/4" or 6mm.
    If you choose to do that, it might help make your extra floorboard wider and more like the others.

    [IMG]halyard cleat by Michael Owen, on Flickr[/IMG]
    "near it, a small whale-boat, painted red and blue, the delight of the king's old age."

  18. #263
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Thanks Mike- that's worth a look. I just have 10mm packers in at the moment to get the spacing...nothing attached, so time for a bit of a fiddle around. What width are your floorboards?

    Another issue I have been pondering is the placement of the mainsheet system. My plans are a bit different to yours in the treatment of the aft end or the (pivoting) centreboard. I would be grateful for a pic of how you attached your mainsheet system at the hull side of things.
    Thanks for the suggestion on the floorboards.
    PeterW

  19. #264
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Picked up the first of the bronze fittings. These are for the rudder and the bow ring. The rest are on back-order. 'A mix of fittings from UK- Davey and the Classic Marine offshoot.

    PeterW

  20. #265
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    More resin coating on the components of the rudder. The pivoting blade will be given a final coat of resin with graphite where it pivots in the cheeks with the rest of the blade painted , probably the same colour as the hull.
    The inner cheek pieces (centre foreground of pic) have been given a coat of glass cloth so that the blade fits without needing to shave anything from either surface. The inner faces of the cheek pieces (partial resin coat in the pic) will also get a fial graphite coat, with the rest painted, possibly a light cream. The knees (lighter are Huon Pine; darker are Tea-tree) are at the varnish stage.

    PeterW

  21. #266
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Northern NSW Australia
    Posts
    62,857

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Reinforcement on rubbing surfaces is a good idea Peter. My rudder assembly is incomplete , that sounds like a worthwhile mod.
    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  22. #267
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Thanks Peter. On another matter-I am collecting info on a trailer for the Whilly Tern. I have a pic of yours with wheels but no structure above the main framework. Are you any further along with rollers etc? The Tern is lighter (72kgs) than Jim so build may be a bit different. I would appreciate any further pics you have of your trailer build.
    PeterW

  23. #268
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Providence, RI USA
    Posts
    1,212

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Hi Peter. I finally found some pix of my mainsheet system. It's about as simple as can be. I'm sure there are better solutions. I believe most people have more purchase on the main sheet and downhaul than I do. For the downhaul, I just followed Geoff Kerr's method on the CY build he has on Off Center Harbor.

    As you can see in the first pic, my main is just a stopper knot through a pad-eye through-bolted to a floorboard, up to a block lashed to the boom, back down through another fairlead type thingy, to my hand. In the second pic, my wife is holding the downhaul, and my son has the main.

    Incidentally, I found it hard to find a really good main sheet solution, so I'll be curious what you find. Maybe a new thread on the subject?

    Good luck!

    Mike

    [IMG]main sheet by Michael Owen, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]M+B in boat by Michael Owen, on Flickr[/IMG]

    [IMG]downhaul2 by Michael Owen, on Flickr[/IMG]
    "near it, a small whale-boat, painted red and blue, the delight of the king's old age."

  24. #269
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Hi Mike. Thanks for taking the time to find the pics and post a reply. I have been tossing up whether to use a system like yours (no cleat) for the mainsheet, and am still not sure which way I will go. I used a 'no cleat' system on our small dinghy (pic) and it worked very well although with a good bit smaller sail area than the Whilly Tern. Some have used a padeye on the curved end capping of the centrecase. A cleat or just a block could be attached there- possibly with a 4-1 purchase.

    PeterW

  25. #270
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    A couple of good steps today: The rudder components received another clear resin coat on 2 piecs and a grap[hite coat on the faces where the rudde will pivot in the cheeks. Graphite powder (Thanks Andrew p) will see out the final coat on the other side of the top of the rudder blade. The 2nd bit was to drill for the bow towing ring. I had been putting this job off due to the length of the hole required (just under 4") and the trepidation that it would go astray. A batten from the stem to the floor of the shed helped line the drill up, and the result was spot on. Also picked up a Mathieson wooden hollowing plane (for the mast building) at a local tool sale. A good day.





    The pad under the washer is a piece of Celery Top Pine. The apron is King Billy Pine - a bit soft even with a couple of resin coats.

    PeterW

  26. #271
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Now working on the bow tanks and the mast partner/mast step. The latest iteration for access to the tank can be seen in the first photo: this version will see 2 hatches installed in the top of the tank with the aft tank receiving a hatch in the vertical face of the tank. The hole for the mast has been cut in the mast partner: had a bit of luck here as the mast section is 2 3/4" (70mm) at this point and the Workzone hole saw set has a largest size of 2 7/8" (73mm). Similarly for the mast step - 1 3/4" (44mm) required and the closest hole saw was spot on at 1 3/4" (44mm) .Both holes will need a bit of reaming out for leathering (mast partner) and mast rake (mast step).




    Not the best photo of the mast step. This is a piece of white oak with a strip of hardwood fllorboard glued underneath to resist splitting forces. Drain hole in the after end.

    PeterW

  27. #272
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Made a start on the aft tank hatch (that was an easy decision) with a cut-out made and lid gasket pieces started. The seal will be some soft gasket material with 4 turn buttons to apply pressure.



    PeterW

  28. #273
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lake Norman,North Carolina and Cedarville, Michigan
    Posts
    135

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Peter,
    I have been following for a while but I wanted to ask you a question as you finish up your tanks. Back in post #252 you said...
    More work on the fore and aft tanks. I have added approx 3/4" (20mm) crown to the inner edges of the tanks (on centreline) so that the tops of the tanks would not look concave when done.
    My next question is whether I build hatches on the top of the tanks or on the vertical faces. There are pros and cons for each and at the moment I am leaning slightly toward hatches on the vertical faces.

    I'm about to start my tanks and was wondering about the crown that you added. Flat tops would be easier, and I would like to use top mount hatches so my inclination was to keep the tank top flat to ensure they would seal well.

    Did it just look "wrong" to you eye? Was the 3/4" enough in hindsight to sweeten the line?
    Thanks.
    -Jim

  29. #274
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Jim,

    I am very happy with how the 3/4" addition to the crown of both fore and aft tank beams has turned out. There was a payoff in a couple of ways:

    1. The aft tank lid was always going to be in 2 halves as this was all the 1/4" ply I had left and it was a case of 2 pieces for the top or a new sheet of ply. Once this was done, the case for slicing the front tank lid down the middle was a bit easier. It was going to be quite simple to get good joins at the edges (with the planking) but once the shape became a compound curve, it was more difficult - not impossible - just quite a bit more work with clear finish anticipated.

    2. Cutting/ Fitting the hatch (1 in the front tank at the moment) has been a lot easier now with the smaller panel.

    The issue of the "optics" is am interesting one. When I was building the bigger boat (post #59) a boatbuilder mate advised that I ensure the cabin sides had a bit of "toe-in" at the top so that the sides did not look like they were leaning out. We also installed a teak veneer deck (1/4") that was laid fore and aft. Advice there was to also give the king plank on the foredeck a bit of "toe-in" (slightly fatter at the aft end than the front end) to ensure the straight laid planks did not look like they were heading off anywhere but dead straight. Both bits of advice were very sound.

    Iain Oughtred mentions crown on decks in his book (Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual) and says either method can work with flat being ok for smaller boats but larger ones needing a bit of crown.

    What boat are you building?
    Cheers
    Peter
    PeterW

  30. #275
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Progress on the hatches with the front tank hatch progressing well apart from 1 slip up when I cut a 45 deg mitre the wrong way. A coffee break helped the recovery process.



    Lid glue-up:



    Fore and aft sides glued:

    PeterW

  31. #276
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Rushworth Australia
    Posts
    2,508

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Good work Peter, all the little bits seem to take an unusual amount of time don't they

  32. #277
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Northern NSW Australia
    Posts
    62,857

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Yes !!!!!!!!
    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  33. #278
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Posts
    122

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Peter

    Good progress for you since January despite difficult weather conditions!

    My mainsheet system is not very traditional with 4:1 purchase using a Harken fiddle block at the top looped over the boom, and a Harken fiddle block+becket+camcleat at the bottom on short cord loop shackled to a saddle mounted towards the bottom of the curved coverboard on the centreboard case. It works well and the positioning is convenient. Because your cockpit is shorter you might need to experiment to set up the sheeting to suit where you want it to be. In my view a 3 or 4:1 purchase should be OK and with a lugsail no traveller is necessary.

    Cheers

    Graeme

  34. #279
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    260

    Default Re: A Whilly Tern in Oz

    Thanks Gents,
    The fitout here is certainly taking longer than the last one I built. But then that was a kayak and, apart from kinda having to build 2 hulls, there is a lot more 'air' in a kayak than these sort of boats.
    Graeme - thanks for the mainsheet details. I have looked at some tufnol blocks and they are not too bad ($$) until you get into the double sheave with cleat. Will have a look at the Harkens.

    More work today on the front hatch and the rudder cheek pieces. I am also rehabing a Stanley Bedrock No 606 a mate gave me. It is missing a few bits but should come up nicely.

    This pic is a bit of a 'repeat' but this time it has glue.




    PeterW

  35. #280
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Lake Norman,North Carolina and Cedarville, Michigan
    Posts
    135

    Default Re: A Whiily Tern in Oz

    Peter,
    Thanks for the advise on the tanks. As I haven't started them yet, I'm still trying to work out just how to do it and will play with some templates perhaps. I'm going to need more plywood either way, so that won't be the deciding factor.

    I have a St. Ayles skiff that I built with students at a local school where I work. We didn't find ourselves rowing it since we were unsuccessful promoting the building of a second one in the area. I contacted Ian about converting it to sail and he expressed interest in the project and even drew up a plan that he sent as a supplement to our plans. (off center dagger board, balanced lug)

    Since we are a "one off" at this point, I'm trying to use some of the best practices that I have seen built on his other larger designs to incorporate into this St. Ayles. I feel that buoyancy tanks are a safety issue and something that I would like to add even though Ian didn't mandate them.

    Keep up the great work.
    -Jim

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •