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Thread: An Ilur in PA

  1. #106
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Oy! I guess you can tell I'm a novice at this.
    Let me see what I can do about that.

  2. #107
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    So this afternoon a bunch of my friends submitted to the challenge of flipping Ilur right side up.
    All week I had been agonizing of the process and also how best to prepare the place on which to land Ilur.

    As it turned out, the lift with six people was was easily and while I had prepared a place next to the strong back to put the hull down, it proved not to be necessary and there were enough things to hold on to while rotating the hull.


  3. #108
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Iris made a video of the flipping process. As soon as it is uploaded I will share it here.

  4. #109
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    In the meantime, this is how things look on the business end. Lots and lots to do.


  5. #110
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Still waiting for the upload to tumblr. It seems to hang up. On FB I had no problem. Let's try youTube...
    Last edited by cmosheh; 09-12-2016 at 09:37 AM.

  6. #111
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Okay - here it is:


  7. #112
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    very cool!

    looks to be in pretty safe hands with that number of people, good to know.

    Spotting your centreboard case, can i ask how you knew where to put the floorboard supports? i couldn't see an obvious way of working it out from my current stage, was minded just to leave it to later rather than screw from the inside

  8. #113
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Thanks Jeff!

    F. Vivier's design of Ilur utilizes an innovative and ingenious approach to integrating many elements of the inside components into the building sequence even before planking. The process really does not leave room for miscalculations in terms of placement. John Hartmann's thread "An Ilur in Vermont" provides a greater step by step description of the process. To avoid unnecessary repetition, I did not illustrate the process in such detail.

    Chris

  9. #114
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    He does! I'm mid (well 1/32) build - however ive either missed or can't put together the points id need to place those centreboard case floor supports - it suggests putting them on befoee assembling the case so they can be screwed but the text just says 'about half way up' so wondering if you remember doing it.. The top of the bulkheads is my guess but im not entirely clear exactly where the mid one attaches, don't have the moulds up yet. Thanks!

  10. #115
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Well done! It looks like a very tidy job, too. I do recall that finishing the interior was time consuming, with all the inside corners to work around and into while prepping and painting. Are there still oblique floorboards to install, or has Vivier evolved a different approach to the floorboards in the outboard areas of the cockpit?

  11. #116
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Jeff, I went back to my plans and found a note stating "210 mm top of case to top of floorboard supports". Hope that helps.
    cheers,
    John

  12. #117
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    ... and there was much rejoicing



    Congrats on the turnover!

  13. #118
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    I now understand what you were asking about, Jeff, along the center board itself and I do remember that I had to arrive at that measurement by inference since there was no direct measurement. I have no doubt that John has the right number. I can go to my plans and look because I also remember having to write it down.

    John, yes the oblique floor panels are still waiting to be installed. I put them in place in the early stages of planking to make sure that I had a fit. Later on I left them aside. They'll need to primed and painted underneath before installation.

    Cheers!
    Chris

  14. #119
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Thanks both - i hadn't twigged that they would be parallel to the top of the case, makes sense! - and there are tabs at the back that fit into a bulkhead, so the floor height will be very definite from there. (and the measurement will be great to ease my mind)

  15. #120
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Looks just beautiful! Nicely done.

    Do I see limber holes in the aft buoyancy tanks? Or do they get plugged up later?
    Or are those storage and the two tanks in front of them for buoyancy?

    Looking great!

    Mike
    "near it, a small whale-boat, painted red and blue, the delight of the king's old age."

  16. #121
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Yes, there are limber holes.
    The top seats are wooden planks not plywood, so the buoyancy comes by way of foam or some sort of air bags.
    How about milk jugs

  17. #122
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Quote Originally Posted by cmosheh View Post

    Wow, just plain lovely.

  18. #123
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    On the subject of buoyancy tanks I had initially though that I'd plug up the limber holes and make air-tight (ahhh water-tight) flotation chambers... but in communicating about this with F. Vivier he advised that I'd have to cap the top with plywood for a proper seal. Since there are supposed to be planks of some type of "regular" wood, I'd have to make these much thinner in order to match the height of the thwarts and the rear storage compartment.

    Ultimately I decided not to mess with the look and intent of the design. However I did decide to add the inspection ports on either side of the large tanks so that increased air flow (while not at sea) might reduce the chance of condensation.

  19. #124
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Quote Originally Posted by cmosheh View Post
    On the subject of buoyancy tanks I had initially though that I'd plug up the limber holes and make air-tight (ahhh water-tight) flotation chambers... but in communicating about this with F. Vivier he advised that I'd have to cap the top with plywood for a proper seal. Since there are supposed to be planks of some type of "regular" wood, I'd have to make these much thinner in order to match the height of the thwarts and the rear storage compartment.

    Ultimately I decided not to mess with the look and intent of the design. However I did decide to add the inspection ports on either side of the large tanks so that increased air flow (while not at sea) might reduce the chance of condensation.
    If you want sealed tanks with the floorboards, you could just drop the doublers down 6mm, or since you have a few already glued on, plane 6mm down with a rabbet plane or router, then put your tank top on flush, before laying your seat planks. Mr Vivier has to put in foam buoyancy for French RCD requirements (buoyancy that can't be punctured) hence he uses closed cell foam packaged into semi enclosed compartments per plan.
    Last edited by Edward Pearson; 09-13-2016 at 07:20 AM.

  20. #125
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Thanks, yes that would be an option. At this point I've pretty much decided to stick with FV's plan.

  21. #126
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Bravo, nicely done! She is really a beautiful boat. Congrats.

    Quote Originally Posted by cmosheh View Post
    So this afternoon a bunch of my friends submitted to the challenge of flipping Ilur right side up.
    All week I had been agonizing of the process and also how best to prepare the place on which to land Ilur.

    As it turned out, the lift with six people was was easily and while I had prepared a place next to the strong back to put the hull down, it proved not to be necessary and there were enough things to hold on to while rotating the hull.


  22. #127
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    ...with a "little help" from my friend!

    Many thanks to my friend and "wood guru" Garth Jones from Jones Furniture Designs for his major league help to convert my 10" x 17' 4/4 board of sapele into future gunwale and seat risers...



    That would have been a mission impossible on my equipment!


  23. #128
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    This past week I installed the two rub rails, the outer part of the three part gunwale... Sapele to match the top of the transom.
    Barring unforeseen circumstances, these as well as the sheer plank will get the Deks Olje 1 and 2 treatment.
    The "L" shaped rub rail protects the exposed top of the sheer plank which I covered with neat epoxy prior to gluing the rub rail in place.
    I might wait with the inwales until more has been accomplished on the "inside job".


  24. #129
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Today, FINALLY, after a couple of weeks of filleting and sanding I applied the penetrating epoxy.




    Here you can see clearly the location of the second mast step... the one I will be using primarily for the lug/sloop setup.



    I still have some 25mm x 25mm pieces to glue into position... I postponed some of these because the epoxy job would have been obstructed just a little. After that I'll complete #2 and #3 of the three part gunwale and then do the priming.

    This stage has been rather tedious because the progress was not readily visible and leaning over the gunwale to work inside was back-breaking and crouching inside - the alternative - was awkward.

    Soon I'll have to get some wood for the floor boards.
    I still like the idea of cypress for the floors.

    Cheers!

  25. #130
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Nice job Chris - looks great!
    PeterW

  26. #131
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Hi this is a lovely boat, I have had the study plans for a while and intend to build one in the next couple or three years.
    A couple of questions what is CPES? and in your centre board case is it just standard epoxy resin with graphite mixed in and painted straight on or is it a top coat of a couple of layers of standard epoxy?.

    Dave

  27. #132
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Thanks, Dave.

    CPES - Clear Penetrating Epoxy - is a two part (2:1 ratio) product which was recommended to me as an alternative to neat epoxy. When mixed, the batch is very liquid and definitely penetrates into the wood much more so than epoxy which tends to cure more like a veneer. The application is straight forward and flat surfaces can be rolled on easily. However good ventilation and an excellent respirator is a must with this product.

    Preparing the cured surface for its first coat of primer should involve only minor sanding with 120 grid.
    Obviously I am not applying CPES to surfaces that will get the Deks Olje treatment.

    The building of the centerboard trunk is illustrated in #29.
    The inner surfaces of the trunk are indeed covered with a couple of coats of epoxy mixed with graphite.

    Cheers!
    Chris

  28. #133
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Thanks it's great to read build threads thinking one day I may be starting my own and hopefully some of the processes will be a little more familiar.

    Dave

  29. #134
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Do some prep work on the center board - fairly self-explanatory stuff...

    The leading edge received a groove which was then filled with thickened epoxy and faired.
    Thank you to Geoff Kerr's video series on OffCenterHarbor for the tip.

    Working on a nice foil shape but only where the CB is actually exposed to the water.
    Using the drill-fill-drill routine to create a secure seat for the bronze pivoting bolt.







  30. #135
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    are you going to glass the centreboard too? I'm not particularly looking forward to that step..

    filling the leading edge is an appealing idea, i've already done the shaping though so not really an option for me.

  31. #136
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    The CB will receive a layer of carbon fiber on both sides (I want to be able to stand on it without worries in the event of a capsize).
    The fill coats as well as all of the edges will be very lightly thickened (cell-o-fill) epoxy plus graphite. Sanding won't be fun but in the end this concoction will make for a strong, smooth, slippery and abrasion resistant surface. My apologies for purists, clearly I am not aiming for a "historical look".

    I will also apply on either side around the pivot bolt a flat disc of UHMWPE as described on page 6 of John Hartmann's Ilur in Vermont thread. In my opinion a brilliant idea that I had not heard of before. These discs will act as bushings and should result in a snug but smooth fitting CB inside the trunk. I'll post pics when I get to that part.

    Right now I am working on the second set of in-wales. Got the first set glued in place next to the rub rails and am now dry-fitting the second in-wales.
    I finally figure out how to do this single-handed without creating a massive mess with the thickened epoxy.

    Then on to the two risers and some more sanding before I am ready to put on the first coat of primer.

  32. #137
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    Looks great! Keep us updated.

    Mike
    "near it, a small whale-boat, painted red and blue, the delight of the king's old age."

  33. #138
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    nice, sounds good! I'm going to nick the bushings idea too, looking forward to your pics.

  34. #139
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    This is the SP Systems layup advice for carbon coating a wood laminated board with uni directional then an overlying glass layer. Essentially three layers at the boat end reducing toward the tip then woven glass. Might be worth a perusal.

    http://www.gurit.com/files/documents...ructionpdf.pdf

  35. #140
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    Default Re: An Ilur in PA

    That is a very comprehensive article!
    Thanks for the link!

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