Does anyone know where to get long bronze bolts for a barndoor rudder repair. I am thinking of taking a bronze rod and threading the end and welding a bolt head onto it. anyone ever done this.
Rock
Does anyone know where to get long bronze bolts for a barndoor rudder repair. I am thinking of taking a bronze rod and threading the end and welding a bolt head onto it. anyone ever done this.
Rock
Does anyone know where to get long bronze bolts for a barndoor rudder repair. I am thinking of taking a bronze rod and threading the end and welding a bolt head onto it. anyone ever done this.
Rock
Does anyone know where to get long bronze bolts for a barndoor rudder repair. I am thinking of taking a bronze rod and threading the end and welding a bolt head onto it. anyone ever done this.
Rock
Senior Member
That is the way to do it except that there are questions about the temper of the bronze after brazing so solder or a pin or just peening the bolt end might be better.
Senior Member
That is the way to do it except that there are questions about the temper of the bronze after brazing so solder or a pin or just peening the bolt end might be better.
Senior Member
That is the way to do it except that there are questions about the temper of the bronze after brazing so solder or a pin or just peening the bolt end might be better.
Senior Member
Or just thread and put a nut on both ends. One technique I have used in other situations is to thread just enough of the rod end to allow the nut to be threaded on. Then pin the nut in place with a pin of the same metal (ideally a tappered pin). Then file the pin and the rod end flush with the nut. The end result looks and behaves almost exactly like a standard 'bolt head'. For that matter, I don't see any reason why you couldn't substitute brazing for the pin I describe above.
Senior Member
Or just thread and put a nut on both ends. One technique I have used in other situations is to thread just enough of the rod end to allow the nut to be threaded on. Then pin the nut in place with a pin of the same metal (ideally a tappered pin). Then file the pin and the rod end flush with the nut. The end result looks and behaves almost exactly like a standard 'bolt head'. For that matter, I don't see any reason why you couldn't substitute brazing for the pin I describe above.
Senior Member
Or just thread and put a nut on both ends. One technique I have used in other situations is to thread just enough of the rod end to allow the nut to be threaded on. Then pin the nut in place with a pin of the same metal (ideally a tappered pin). Then file the pin and the rod end flush with the nut. The end result looks and behaves almost exactly like a standard 'bolt head'. For that matter, I don't see any reason why you couldn't substitute brazing for the pin I describe above.
you didn't mention how long the bolts need to be. I've used bronze all-thread that has worked pretty good and galvanized iron or steel is readily available and muuuch cheaper.
you didn't mention how long the bolts need to be. I've used bronze all-thread that has worked pretty good and galvanized iron or steel is readily available and muuuch cheaper.
you didn't mention how long the bolts need to be. I've used bronze all-thread that has worked pretty good and galvanized iron or steel is readily available and muuuch cheaper.
Resident curmudgeon
The trouble with using threaded rod is that water will follow the threads. To try to avoid this you can drill the hole slightly under-size and make threads in the wood with the rod. Or you can slush the rod with epoxy. The trouble with both is that you'll have a hard time getting the rod out if you ever need to. Best is to put unthreaded rod slushed with beeswax (not soap) in a hole just slightly smaller. Put a nut & washer at each end and peen the end of the rod (one end if you are making a drift). There's no need to weld or braze it. You can countersink the nut, making the countersink big enough to get a thin-wall socket on it to tighten it. Then peen, using a large-diameter punch. Peen it just enough to hold the nut, so it can be backed off if ever necessary. Then put in a wooden plug as usual. This way you can remove the plugs and tighten the nuts if necessary.
Jamestown Distributors for the rod, nuts & washers
[This message has been edited by Bayboat (edited 02-28-2001).]
Resident curmudgeon
The trouble with using threaded rod is that water will follow the threads. To try to avoid this you can drill the hole slightly under-size and make threads in the wood with the rod. Or you can slush the rod with epoxy. The trouble with both is that you'll have a hard time getting the rod out if you ever need to. Best is to put unthreaded rod slushed with beeswax (not soap) in a hole just slightly smaller. Put a nut & washer at each end and peen the end of the rod (one end if you are making a drift). There's no need to weld or braze it. You can countersink the nut, making the countersink big enough to get a thin-wall socket on it to tighten it. Then peen, using a large-diameter punch. Peen it just enough to hold the nut, so it can be backed off if ever necessary. Then put in a wooden plug as usual. This way you can remove the plugs and tighten the nuts if necessary.
Jamestown Distributors for the rod, nuts & washers
[This message has been edited by Bayboat (edited 02-28-2001).]
Resident curmudgeon
The trouble with using threaded rod is that water will follow the threads. To try to avoid this you can drill the hole slightly under-size and make threads in the wood with the rod. Or you can slush the rod with epoxy. The trouble with both is that you'll have a hard time getting the rod out if you ever need to. Best is to put unthreaded rod slushed with beeswax (not soap) in a hole just slightly smaller. Put a nut & washer at each end and peen the end of the rod (one end if you are making a drift). There's no need to weld or braze it. You can countersink the nut, making the countersink big enough to get a thin-wall socket on it to tighten it. Then peen, using a large-diameter punch. Peen it just enough to hold the nut, so it can be backed off if ever necessary. Then put in a wooden plug as usual. This way you can remove the plugs and tighten the nuts if necessary.
Jamestown Distributors for the rod, nuts & washers
[This message has been edited by Bayboat (edited 02-28-2001).]
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