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Thread: SCAMP New Build

  1. #36
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    The Rudder is also well on it's merry way.
    This time I glued up the blank but kept the top sheet of ply off till I had added the weights. This saved me loads of fairing and fussing time.

    After gluing in the weights, the same motley assortment of bits of metal and sand fill, I was able to quickly glue the top plywood piece. It's setting now and I'll have a go at shaping it tomorrow.

    Gluing the blank. I cut it out on the bandsaw after it had set.





    Used a belt sander and a rasp to get the shape smoothed out.



    I used a forstner bit and a chisel to make the cavity. It was easier that the router for a small area.



    Ready for the top sheet of plywood. Weights are in and flat. I did not put as much weight as the manual suggested because I think my ply is heavier than what they worked with.


  2. #37
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    Apr 2011
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    Vancouver, BC
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    Looks fantastic, Christine! You're cooking right along...

  3. #38
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    Apr 2008
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    Now that the weather has cooled down some I'm back in the shop building.
    I put together the frame.





    I had some trouble deciding how high to make the legs. Ideally the boat could be lifted and lowered as I work on various parts.



    Squared, level and less than 2mm off at the diagonals. I can live with that. I screwed it to the floor.




    I'm using Dynamite Payson's method of butt joining with a strip of glass top and bottom. It has worked well for me in the past and is really strong.




    Good strong joint. I had sanded back some thickness so it's flat in the bottom side.



    The bottom is screwed onto the frame. It looks wonky but that's an optical illusion.

    I'm now ready to start on the structure.

  4. #39
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    It took me a long time to figure out exactly where everything went. I kept putting things together and measuring, marking and trying again. The manual is really geared at kit builders so there is lots to figure out for folks building by plan.



    I use clamps to put it together and check fit and positioning.

    Before I glue I need the centreboard case to be finalized. Here I am checking that the centreboard fits and can pivot properly. All is well. I have some lovely graphite ordered for the inside of the case and the board.



    Glassed the inside of the case. The upright side of the starboard bench is also the centreboard case side. The centreboard is not in the centre, so to speak, rather it is pushed to starboard hidden in the seat structure.







    I had cut the opening of the centreboard when I made the bottom but I had to patch this because the centreboard opening was not quite in the right position. I should have waited and ignored the plans in this.



    Dry run with centrecase in position.

  5. #40
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build



    Bulkhead 3 is now glued and there is no going back to position. Stem helps position the bulkhead and helps set the proper angle. The side pieces of the bench also help with the angle.



    The cockpit bulkheads are all glued up. The doubling pieces for the centreboard case, which help strengthen the spot where the pivot is placed are shaped and glued in. I used temporary screws for those.



    Put a coat of epoxy on everything. This shows the various compartment hidden by the floor. The forward compartment is a water ballast tank. The rest are airtight compartment that increase buoyancy.



    This part is now complete for now. I will move on to the front section to glue in the stem, forward bulkhead (is it a transom if it's at the front?) and mast case.


    Cheers

    Christine
    http://www.christinedemerchant.com/b...amp-hull1.html

  6. #41
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    Apr 2008
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    Default Scamp Build, Finished the forward framework

    I've completed the front bulkheads and stem. This section includes the mast case and supports for the roof of the SCAMP cuddy and the deck support at the very front of the boat.


    Rough fit of front section parts. The Stem and bulkhead 2 and 3.



    Stem gets glued, and squared. The angle of the bottom was slightly off and I had to fiddle with it some. Not a huge difference but there is a slight gap between stem and bottom.



    The openings in bulkhead 3 are easier made before gluing. Here I have a pattern made from a melamine sheet. It was not a good choice of material because the coating chipped as I cut it. Made it work eventually.



    The flush bit was useful.



    Openings are done and even.



    I prepared the stiffeners/liners. The groove holds a sealing gasket. The stiffener got glued behind the opening. I used my router with various collars to make them and rout the groove. It would have been nice to buy ready made locker doors but the price is quite stiff after you count the exchange, duties and shipping. I've more photos on my website:
    http://www.christinedemerchant.com/b...-openings.html
    I'm waiting for the rubber gasket material to arrive before committing to a thickness of door.

  7. #42
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    Apr 2008
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    Default Re: Scamp Build, Finished the forward framework



    The mast of Scamp sits inside a mast case which is attached to bulkhead 3. This straddles the stem. I chose to build it before attaching the bulkhead. I find it easier to work on the bench. The parts get glued and large fillets are made.



    I glassed the seams after making strong fillets.



    Glue in the bulkhead 3 with the mast case.



    Glue in bulkhead 2 after much measuring and checking of angles.

    I now need to prepare the front panel / bulkhead 1

  8. #43
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    Apr 2008
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build



    The front panel has a small panel and glass glued to it to provide backing for the front ring attachment. I sort of guessed for the position.

    The edges are all beveled and support pieces are made ready and glued. I have to cut 2 indents which will help position and support the front deck.



    I've cut the holes through the bulkhead 2 and the indents on the front panel. The roof supports are checked for position and length. They protrude from the second bulkhead. I actually laid the roof panel on the front to check the fit. The kit comes with a handy positioning beam but the plans do not have this information.
    Once I was confident of the positioning of the support beams at the front, I glued them in place.



    The front panel is glued onto the stem. The stem is only 9mm thick so the whole assembly is quite floppy. I have lots of clamps and little blocks of wood positioning and clamping the front.



    What should have been a simple glue turned out to be very annoying. Everything got sticky, clamps and blocks kept jumping out of my hands and I was just plain stupid. Eventually I managed to wrangle everything in place just as my epoxy was just beginning to thicken.

    That's it for the front end supports and bulkheads. I still have lots of sanding and a few fillets to make but this is mostly done.

  9. #44
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    Apr 2012
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    Adelaide, South Australia
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    Default

    Great job!

    sent from my nerdy phone app
    When I first joined WBF they made me write a book to prove I was a real yachty. I was so gullible.
    Paperback E-book

  10. #45
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    Sep 2010
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    Rushworth Australia
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    2,500

    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    youve acheived heaps since last post Christine, you'll be on water by Xmas!

    well done

  11. #46
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    I could probably be on the water by Christmas if it freezes over. Probably not, too warm still.
    I'm hoping to be sailing this summer, if the obsession holds

  12. #47
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build



    I fiddled with the transom to make sure it fit and was in the right spot. I had to trim the end of the bench support uprights, I had cut them just a bit curvy and this extra mm. was enough to make the transom stick out. I duck taped it in to fit the doubler that supports the rudder. I also have to add doublers for the possible motor mount. Scamp can take a 2-3hp engine or a trolling motor and that might be nice.



    I dry fitted the side deck piece and it fits nicely. I did not bother to clamp it but I can push it on the bulkhead supports and it's a fair curve.



    I used the router to cut out the doubler hole. This is for the tiller handle. Glued it up and it's mostly ready to go on. I'll hold off until I've finished working on the interior. It's easier to access without the transom.



    I had to fix a mistake. I had glued the various bulkheads and they were nice and level and square but I noticed that the side of the bench upright was proud of the bulkhead. I had checked the fit when I did a dry run but I guess I glued it a bit off the bottom and did not notice. Some of the positioning slots were tight and I should have tapped them. It took me forever to figure out what the problem was. Old Lady Moment.
    I used the plane to take about an eight of an inch off and everything seems to be square, level and no harm done.

    Spent a somewhat boring afternoon making fillets. These live inside the air tight compartments under the cockpit. I'm glad that's done.



    Wild turkey came to visit. They like to check out the seeds under the bird feeders. (I put some on the ground for them too.)

  13. #48
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Hamilton,OH
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    664

    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    I am working in Portland for the last 2 weeks. Went up to Port Townsend last weekend for something to do. I took a bunch of pics of a scamp beside the maritime center and didn't know what it was. I am more a traditional design kinda guy, but this thing caught my interest. It is very cool. If I didn't have 3 or 4 projects in the pipeline I would start one of these. Looking forward to following this build.

  14. #49
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    Mar 2007
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    East Quogue,NY
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    Been watching this thread. Very enjoyable to see you progress and a boat emerging.

    Spent a somewhat boring afternoon making fillets. These live inside the air tight compartments under the cockpit. I'm glad that's done
    But a critical job. Good for you!

    Kevin
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  15. #50
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    Apr 2008
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    I've been working but it seems I don't have much to show for the time. I guess that's the way with detailed work. Before I start putting hull planks on the boat I wanted to get some of the interior work done. The centreboard pivots on a Stainless bolt. The board and case both have bronze bushings to protect the wood and make for a smoother action.


    I cut the bushings with a hacksaw but had to finish the cut with a file. I was not able to cut perfectly square so the file flattened the edges. I also sanded the sides with rough paper and cut some slots to give the epoxy something to bite into.




    The centreboard has enough flat to be able to set up on the drill press. The hole is oversize to allow quite a lot of thickened epoxy into the joint.



    The hole was oversize with enough play to cause trouble if the bushing set crooked. I finally figured out a gluing jig with a hole in a thick plank. A dowel kept everything lined up square. The dowel supported the bushings centered in the board until the epoxy set. I will be putting a couple more coats of epoxy on the board including some graphite.
    Last edited by Christine DeMerchant; 11-28-2016 at 07:52 PM.

  16. #51
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build



    The bolt is in a plywood holder that gets screwed into the side of the case. On the other side of the case there is a glued on piece that stops the bolt from working itself loose. The screwed on side can be removed to allow the centreboard to be taken out. The access is through the water ballast tank. I'll be using an o-ring and also sealant. Probably 3M 4200. Not very removable but I don't expect to have to remove this very much.


    Dry run of the bushing in the side of the centreboard case. The dowel that is sticking out goes through the middle where there is a block of wood. The dowel supports the bushings into the centre of the hole while the epoxy sets. It worked very well. The dowel sticks out and is long enough to check that it is square to the sides of the case. I had oiled the dowel so it would not stick in case some epoxy got on it.
    The water ballast fill hole is drilled through and the doubler is prepared and screwed in for dry run. I'll put a couple of coats of epoxy on it before installing.
    There is something terrifying about drilling through the bottom of a boat.



    I got some thick walled tubing to act as seal for the various doors and lockers. It's latex. I ran a few experiments to find a glue that would stick it to itself so I could make a continuous seal.



    I went around and grabbed a handful of adhesives I had around and tried them. 3M 4200, superglue, and bicycle patch kit glue all worked on this tubing. Since there is not a lot of stress on the joint I don't think it is critical. If I really pull hard they all eventually come apart but I had to pull.

    Christine
    http://www.christinedemerchant.com

  17. #52
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    Apr 2008
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    Beavering on, I fitted and glued on the wood pieces that will be supporting the floor of the cockpit. Pleasant music, nothing too challenging.
    These pieces provide a wider glue base and extra strength, for the floor so that there is less chance of leaks into the dry compartment, and leaks from the ballast tank.



    John Welsford and Howard Rice suggested some modifications to the ballast tank. John suggested that adding some fiberglass tape to the seams would help reduce chances of leakage. Apparently a small number of Scamps had some water seepage. Howard suggested adding some plywood to the bottom of the tank to bring the floor to drainage hole level. This would allow all the water to drain out rather than having a 6mm high water puddle that would have to be pumped or sponged out.
    So I taped and added ply.


    Lots of weights while glue sets under the plywood.



    I also added another fillet after this.
    I overdrilled the screw holes and filled them with epoxy. I'll drill them to size later. That way the screw holes will be completely encased in epoxy. Not likely to leak or get wet. The epoxy is mostly filled with silica, there is just a bit of wood flour.

    Last edited by Christine DeMerchant; 12-25-2016 at 08:42 AM.

  18. #53
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    While epoxy was setting I cut and fitted the wood supports for the bench. This is also going to be waterproof compartments.



    Gluing the transom was next. The tape worked well but left some residue. I'll have to clean it off.



    The bottom plank gets a bevel to accommodate the next plank. I cut them with the plane. I'm very proud of the plywood curls. I had just sharpened the plane.



    It was harder to mark the bevels than to cut them. I was worried I would have to use the sander but the plane worked well. This plywood is quite brittle and sometimes tears out if I'm planing end grain.


  19. #54
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    Apr 2008
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    Ridgeway, Ontario
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    I should really sand the inside compartments but I'm anxious to see my first planks installed so I went ahead and tried them on for position. I had taped the beveled edges so they would not get dinged up.
    Since I'm working alone I had to use clamps and rope to position the planks.



    Once I had the proper position figured out I wired them in place. At first just a few stitches then more to firm up the plank. I found that I had to cut a bevel on the bottom to fit the plank properly. Since both sides were the same and the bevel fixed the gap, I won't worry.



    I tied the front first. Working alone, it was easier to do the front with its curved ply. It lined up quite well. The sides aligned without too much trouble. I had to push and pull a bit but in the end the plank went on without any real trouble. It did not take a lot of stitches either.
    I waited a day before gluing the planks in place. I was tired and wanted to look at it with fresh eyes. It took me the better part on a day to fit the 2 planks and stitch them in place.



    The planks overhang the front and back slightly but I will wait till all the planks are in place to trim.
    Next morning I took a good look and tried to check that the planks were symmetrical on both sides but It's hard to do. The curves are fair.
    I went around with some thickened epoxy and tacked the planks on. They get taped later but I will need to remove the stitches before I can do this. I'll need to put in some fillets.



    I guess I will spend some time finishing the interior of the side and forward compartments. A bit of sanding but I'm not going to go overboard for the hidden interior of lockers. As long as they feel smooth.

    Christine
    http://www.christinedemerchant.com

  20. #55
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    dfw
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    932

    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    as usual, your work is inspiring!

    those plywood curls are fabuloso...

    only a WELL SHARPENED plane can create such beauty

    i find a good hot cuppa & a seat in my low slung roll around thinking chair lets me see things from a different perspective

    the fairness or lack thereof will frequently present itself from the lower vantage point

    KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK &

    MERRY CHRISTMAS

    sw
    "we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)

    steve

  21. #56
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build



    After the first planks had been tacked on, I went back and removed the stitches and taped the seam to the bottom. Instructions are to tape the planks to the bottom and to each other but I only need to make a fillet to glue the planks to the bulkheads. I'll make them when all three planks are in place.



    I took great care to line up the bench support and clamped them.



    When I took the clamps off I realized that one side was fine but the left side was one plywood thickness too high. I tried cutting with the Japanese saw but it's not really happy cutting along the grain so I pulled out the dremel and it worked just fine.



    It's max cut depth is 3/4 inches which worked really well. Chiseled off the glue and sanded the wood. No great harm done, but annoying.



    A couple of hours later I'm back where I should have been.

  22. #57
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    I should be sanding the inside but I'd rather be putting another plank on so that's what I'll do.

    I lined up one plank and glued it up then glued up the second one on top of it so it would be exactly the same. I then glued up the second side of both planks. I'm using Dynamite Payson's fiberglass patch method.





    The tops of the second planks get a bevel. It is not the same size everywhere so I marked it (and checked it twice.)



    I used my bendy batten and small nails. I don't know if there is an easier way. I could not think of any. Marking the boards take much longer than cutting the bevels.



    Somehow it's the small victories that give me the most pleasure. Look at those shavings. It's taken me a long time to learn how to sharpen my planes and chisels so they are actually useful.
    I taped the edges of the wood again and went on to installing the second strakes.

  23. #58
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    Apr 2011
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    Vancouver, BC
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    Very nice work, and great progress, Christine. Your little ship is a work of art!

    Cheers,
    Dale

  24. #59
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    Apr 2008
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build



    The second strake is in position and wired loosely. It took quite a lot of fiddling to get it on but no real trouble.



    An extra set of hands would have been useful but a couple of sticks worked fine. Not a lot of pushing, more of a nudge. Both sides are as symmetrical as I can make them.



    The front shows the plank is just a bit too wide and protrudes by about 3/16 on the top side of both planks on both side at this bulkhead only. I think I will have to trim it. I'll see how the top plank fits before trimming anything though.

    Also all the planks are a bit too long and protrude front and back by a small amount but I think this is by design to give the builder a bit of extra material.

    It took a long afternoon of fiddling to get the second planks on but I think they are good to go.



    After spending an hour or so checking that the alignment was good and seeing if I had missed anything, I mixed up my epoxy. The shop is really cold in the morning so it takes an hour or so for the stove to warm it up so I can epoxy.

    I went around and tacked my second strake all around. I'm happy.

    It's encouraging to see that Howard Rice and John Welsford have finally gotten Howard's Scamp launched down in Tierra Del Fuego.

    Christine
    http://www.christinedemerchant.com

  25. #60
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    Apr 2008
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    The photos are kind, my little boat is not a work of art really. I'm not actually a particularly good craftsperson. I'm just someone who muddles along.

  26. #61
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    se pa (Bristol PA)
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    Loving your work Christine! WOOT! WOOT! WOOT!

    As of today I think Howard Rice has just launched his scamp for his trip "round the horn"
    Denise, Bristol PA, Oday30, Anchor Yacht Club, On tidal Delaware River. my current project; http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...0-Ducker-Resto

  27. #62
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    Aug 2015
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    Modesto, CA
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    336

    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    Hi, Christine --

    I can confirm than John leaves a bit of extra length on his planks. On his Tender Behind, about 150-160 mm were left at the after end of the garboard plank. The extra proved necessary to get the purchase needed to crank the panel into the curve he had designed for it.

    Bill

  28. #63
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    Feb 2006
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    Pennsylvania
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    7,560

    Default

    Muddling along will get you a lot farther than fretting over perfection. It's looking good, so keep at it.
    -Dave

  29. #64
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    Default

    It looks great. You are doing a very good job of it.

    sent from my nerdy phone app
    When I first joined WBF they made me write a book to prove I was a real yachty. I was so gullible.
    Paperback E-book

  30. #65
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Ridgeway, Ontario
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    Thanks for the info. That's just about the same amount as I have sticking out.

  31. #66
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    Oct 2007
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    Fort Collins, Co
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    7,227

    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    , doing great,
    Disbelief in magic can force a poor soul into believing in government and business.
    TOM ROBBINS, Even Cowgirls Get the Blues



  32. #67
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    Apr 2008
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    Ridgeway, Ontario
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build



    The second plank is set in and glued. Instructions call for taping the seams between the strakes. I did a run of fillets and set in the fiberglass. It is surprisingly time consuming to make fillets and tape.



    I'm using dark wood sawdust so the fillets are quite dark.



    Before installing the third plank I cut and glued in a transom doubler that will support a motor mount if I decide to put one on.



    I also glued on the last of the bench supports.

    The weather has been really gray and miserable and it's hard to stay motivated. I guess I'm making good progress and that is encouraging. Still I wish we had a good snowstorm instead of this drizzle.

  33. #68
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    Apr 2008
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    Ridgeway, Ontario
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build



    I had bought a bow thingie to attach my mooring / anchor / towing line and decided to install before putting on the third plank. It gets harder to get to with every new part. I tried it on for size and found that I could not fit it on because of wooden supports. The opening was too narrow and I could not get a wider one for love or money. Or rather for a reasonable amount of money.

    I decided to bend the legs apart till they cleared the inside structure. I used the vice and opened it slightly. It worked well.



    I had added some fiberglass and some plywood backing while I was putting together the front piece so I had a nice strong spot. I had to make a wider hole to fit the legs at the larger angle.
    I also had to grind the backing washers so that they would fit but that was not too hard. I'll fill everything with epoxy when I install for good and back the washers with 3M 4200. It makes everything almost permanent. Once the deck is on it would take a tiny contortionist to get in there and remove the ring anyway.



    I'm not sure I like the bar and I might get some big washers instead.



    I spent a bit of time polishing up the ring. The photo shows an extra nylock but that is extra.
    I'll install it permanently after glassing the front and before putting on the deck.
    Last edited by Christine DeMerchant; 01-22-2017 at 06:35 PM.

  34. #69
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    Apr 2008
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    Ridgeway, Ontario
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    Default Re: SCAMP New Build



    Detail of the bow piece with second plank overhanging the angle. It is only too wide for a couple of feet so I trimmed it. It's less than 3/16. The sweep of the plank looks good. I'm not sure what I did wrong. I checked my measurements and could not find any error.



    after the slight adjustment the third plank went on very nicely.



    Details of the front and back. The plank at the front is just a bit proud as are a couple of the other bulkheads. The other 2 are just a bit shy of the plank so I see some adjusting in my future. It's not enough to be worried though and both sides have symmetrical fit so whatever I did I did evenly. Otherwise the fit is good.



    It took the better part of a day to install the third strake. It's only wired in now but tomorrow I'll check it and tack it with epoxy. I'm too tired and I get really stupid when I'm tired.

  35. #70
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    Oct 2013
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    dfw
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    932

    Default Re: SCAMP New Build

    "I'm too tired and I get really stupid when I'm tired."

    WISE DECISION!!!

    sw
    "we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)

    steve

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