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Thread: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

  1. #36
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Hi all, not a great deal of movement in the boat building. This time of year I have to concede to what the minister of fun and beer tickets wants so we are in South Australia with her parents for a week.

    I decided on blackwood for the rudder and centerboard and have laminated up the blanks for shaping. I will post some pictures when I get home. I tested the strength of the joins in a very technical fashion of standing on the off cuts to see where it would break and it was always in the timber and not the glue so I am satisfied with that. The rudder housing is made from Tasmanian Myrtle (pink/red wood) outers and Queensland Silky Oak (blond wood) inside which should look great when varnished.o

    Where I am at now is the aft seat is in which was easy enough except I wanted to make a change so I have only used 4mm ply as a top and am attaching 3mm veneers of Blackwood on top. This is proving to be really fiddly especially as each strip is taking on a life of its own as I cut it free from the larger blanks meaning that I have to take it slow and in stages of about three or four strips at a time. Not a process I would do again, especially on a larger and more intensive build but I think this will really make the interior pop. Hopefully the photo will show what I mean.



    Anyway, I hope everyone has a great festive season with family and friends and can find some time for timber bashing with new toys that santa might deliver.

    Mark.
    Last edited by mwethers; 07-06-2017 at 11:48 PM.

  2. #37
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Mark

    It is possible to build a very strong centreboard using 19mm alpine ash. If you do use solid timber try and select quarter-sawn to reduce the possibility of twists and bends. 19mm marine ply might be satisfactory but IMHO solid timber is better.

    Coating the shaped board with epoxy and fibreglass cloth makes for a bullet-proof job.

    I have built a few boards this way ranging from 13mm thick Mirror Dinghy boards to a 32mm thick rudder blade for a Hartley 18.

    Decent quality Alpine Ash (Mountain Ash or Tassie Oak - mostly all the same stuff) can be got from builders suppliers in Canberra maybe even Bunnings but don't count on it!

    Cheers

    Graeme

  3. #38
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    How did I not see this thread before...

    Very nice! Brings back memories for me. I built mine in 2012-2013 IIRC. For my rudder and CB I just used clear white pine. The CB is covered in glass, so it is quite stiff.

    Also as a side note those beehives are nice. Are they Langsroth? Wish I could make and use some but they're not allowed where I am.

  4. #39
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Very nice indeed mwethers, a beautiful build. Where I sail is often a rock bottom and shallow, my centreboards are ply. I made 2 at a time.

  5. #40
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Frustratingly slow progress on the boat right now - probably more than over winter - because it has just been too hot in my shed for the epoxy to be an effective tool. At least that is my excuse and it is so convienient right now. Seriously though it is not very pleasant out there and I really must get the shed lined before winter comes around again, along with all of the other jobs like landscaping.

    I have completed the aft seat and it has come out somewhat how I imagined it would. With epoxy and varnish the blackwood should really pop. I have decided that all plywood will be some version of white which should contrast nicely. Unfortunately as I now know I created a rod for my own back by trying to be a bit fancy as I have to carry this forward through the boat and also the trim piece on the front of the seat doesn't allow for a seat attachment as the designer planned. This however is not a concern for me as I want to make slat seats which are removable for maintenance but the process to do so is a bit above my skill set so there is a little trial and error going on whilst I work with angles, the bandsaw and copious amounts of pattern plywood, all the while getting better and more proficient.

    I blame this forum for it all as if I had just bought the plans and built a boat the seats would just be plywood as per the plans and I would have just done the bare minimum to get a boat in the water but between Brewer Catboats and Alaskan restorations and every other work of art in between I have lots of tips, ideas, and inspiration to try new things.

    The photo clearly shows what I have been trying to do. Blackwood strips over plywood to create the water proof compartment. The compartment is nothing special except I put in a couple of extra stringers as I didn't think the seat would be supported adequately enough as designed. Heaps of thickened epoxy fillets, and normal epoxy everywhere else should keep it as water resistant as can be.
    The decorative piece is silky oak and is there as I didn't like the boring straight piece in the design especially given the hardwood being used elsewhere. How I connect the seats to it we are yet to see. I have an idea which will be helped by the eye naturally being drawn to the center of the boat so will try it out this morning.

    Mark

    Last edited by mwethers; 07-06-2017 at 11:49 PM.

  6. #41
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Well I'm mightily impressed. My shed is lined and it is still very hot to work in other than at 6am at this time of the year.

    Graeme

  7. #42
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Hot ? I'm afraid not too much is getting done at the moment .
    '' You ain't gonna learn what you don't want to know. ''
    Grateful Dead

  8. #43
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Happy new years to all and I hope you all have good thoughts of the past year and hope for the new.

    Well since I am one of those people who don't drink or get into New Years I managed to get some work done this morning in creating a mock up of the side and centerboard seats.

    I mocked them up with some Cypress and Oregon off cuts so hopefully there will be minimal wastage of the blackwood when I get it.

    Photo one shows how I will mount the seats. The middle cleat is twice as wide as the others so that I can sit both the ends of the side seats and the middle seat on the same cleat. The smaller one is from a Blackwood off cut and the wider one is from something else I found in the wood pile. I think it is Sydney blue gum but whatever it is it is heavy, red, and makes my tools scream for mercy.



    Photo Two is the mock up as far as I have taken it. I am happy with what I have come up with and will progress with it. The two outside side slats are a work in progress as there is a fair bit of cut and fit so they go over the stringers.



    Photo Three is of the blanks for the rudder and centerboard as well as the rudder housing. The housing is made of Tasmanian Myrtle and Queensland Silky Oak for contrast. The blanks are from Blackwood. I have made up a Jig to shape the boards but will be trialing it first on some cheap timber.



    Side view of the contrasting timbers.

    Last edited by mwethers; 07-06-2017 at 11:53 PM.

  9. #44
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Wow! Looking good.

    Graeme

  10. #45
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Nice work. Think we'll be floating soon?

  11. #46
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Isn't there some obscure law of the universe that states that should a backyard boat builder nominate a date to finish then the time shall blow out by three times???

    With work and a new posting approaching rapidly I will be happy if I get to sail by spring Aust.

    Quote Originally Posted by signalcharlie View Post
    Nice work. Think we'll be floating soon?

  12. #47
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Yes, but the factor might be 5 or 10. When I started 3 years ago I thought March or at latest the Summer 2014. We restored 8 other boats and then had a major project on the rowboat Barbashela to distract us 10 months, but that was all fun. I think I'm having too much fun on the Penobscot to rush through it, she will be special to us when we are finished


    Quote Originally Posted by mwethers View Post
    Isn't there some obscure law of the universe that states that should a backyard boat builder nominate a date to finish then the time shall blow out by three times???

    With work and a new posting approaching rapidly I will be happy if I get to sail by spring Aust.

  13. #48
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    This morning I made a centreboard case "kit" and glued up the components. I just ventured out to into the afternoon heat to sand them down and trial fit...and won't be doing that again till the sun goes down tonight! The timber is my usual choice because I had offcuts of silky oak in almost perfect size. I thought about using a softwood for a change but figured this component not only must be bullet proof but being in the centre of the boat will cop a fair bit of knocks. I will make the cap out of a contrasting dark timber most likely blackwood again.

    Photo of the case sitting in its approximate permanent location looking forward:



    Same thing looking back:



    What are peoples thoughts for the inside of cases? The designer says to apply a liberal coating of epoxy but I have seen many many threads on here that apply a layer of cloth of various descriptions. I am not afraid of applying glass if it is the best thing to do and if it is necessary. Obviously the easiest is straight epoxy but if glass is recommended then what weight?

    Photo below is of the glued but not finished or joined components:



    I almost stuffed up before I started by forgetting to match the bottom pieces to the shape of the hull. Thankfully it is a simple curve and the timber bent nicely to the shape so I could scribe a glue line. I also took note of Kent (Signal Charlie) and was very careful not to make two left panels - although I was thinking about it so much I almost did it sub- consciously.

    This was one of those jobs I kept putting off and like everything else it was not so bad after all. Onward to the forward seat, mast partner, forward bulkhead..............and on and on!

    Mark
    Last edited by mwethers; 07-06-2017 at 11:56 PM.

  14. #49
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    You only get one chance with the inside of the centreboard case so cloth and epoxy would be advisable. Some also incorporate graphite powder into the final epoxy coating but that might be considered overkill.

    Graeme

  15. #50
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Cloth: use the same weight that you will use on the centreboard - 6oz or 10oz - probably not critical.

    Graeme

  16. #51
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Hi Mark,

    I didn't use glass on either, because we don't plan extended or heavy use. My rationale on the centerboard was that our Sunfish wooden boards aren't glassed, and they have stood the test of time. Maybe if the boat will be in the water a long time?

    Make sure your side panels stay flat until you get them installed. One of mine got an inward bow along the bottom from a springy bed log and I had to take that out, first with a clamp overnight and then with wooden spacer sticks cut to case slot width while I installed it. I wrapped a piece of wood in plastic wrap and put that in the case slot while the epoxy and screws went into place. The sticks also helped ensure alignment of the case to the keel slot. Then I pulled the sticks out and put in the centerboard (wrapped in plastic) to make sure the alignment was good. Then I pulled out the cb, cleaned excess epoxy out of the slot and put the sticks back in while the epoxy dried.

    Like you it was a job I kept putting off but it turned out to be straightforward. Once the case is put in place then you officially have a boat that will float!!. Put a lawn chair in it and go for a row I had another revelation when worrying about the fit of a piece, and that was that I was not going to worry about perfect fit and finish in areas that would be underneath or covered up by something. I am not going for a show winner, and I am not going for a collection of sticks either. Your boat looks great!

    Happy New Year
    Kent
    Last edited by signalcharlie; 01-03-2017 at 03:18 PM.

  17. #52
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Thanks for the tips Graeme and Kent, much appreciated.

    Re the glassing I am going into Canberra today and will stop in at the fiberglass supplies to have a chat but I think I will glass being that it is a one shot chance to get it all bullet proof. In day to day use of this boat I will much prefer maintenance to repairs/rebuilds so happy to go overkill on this one.

    Kent the spacers make perfect sense and I actually could visualise what you are saying now I have made up my case sides. I will be certainly using your tips.

    Mark

  18. #53
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Steady is an apt description for my progress to date I think. I have spent the morning today getting out the final timber for the rear thwart as well as some patterns for floors, but is is currently 113 deg (F) in my shed so I have put off any gluing till tonight. Photo's will follow accordingly.

    I have just about all the parts for my centreboard case - it is glassed with 6oz and the graphite powder is standing by but I am waiting on some brass bushings and rod to make up the pivot pin. Hopefully this week it will get here. You would think that the national capital would have good supplies of this sort of thing!
    Unfortunately - or fortuitously depending how you look at it - I had an incident with the final shaping of the centreboard where the flush trim bit ripped into some loose grain and flung the board out of my hands which split one of the strips. So I am having to redo another board. This is fortuitous I think because the pivot hole would have been on the join of two strips so I will make the new one out of wider strips to get around this.

    The sail - I have finally made a decision on the rig I will go with and have ordered a Lugsail from Storm Bay sails in Tasmania. Made and delivered came out a bit cheaper than a sail-rite kit from the US and I have the feel goods of supporting a local company. Plus he is well known and recommended in the Wooden boat scene and has made a few sails of this size and style.

    Now for a question - in his book "Building Small Boats" Greg Rossel describes what he calls motel furniture in a small boat by not leaving edges squared off. I tend to like the 1/4in roundover bit for anywhere that is going to have human contact or could be a friction point as I think squared edges in a small boat will eventually splinter in high use.
    What are peoples thoughts on finishing interiors of small boats and what should be left square?

    Mark

  19. #54
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Mark

    Great progress considering our very hot spell of weather!

    When in doubt "round it over" just as Rossel suggests. Square edges make for bruises when you make unintended contact - don't ask me how I know!

    Bad luck about the board. Can you try and recover the damaged board by gluing a new strip on and strengthening it by glassing both sides? It should not matter that the pivot is across a join. If you are worried about that being a weak point, just take some of the remaining exposed strip off and glue on a wider strip for the pivot point and presumably leading edge of the board.

    Exciting news about the sail! Is the rig to be a balanced lug?

    Cheers

    Graeme

  20. #55
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Hi Graeme, I thought about saving the board and still might. The rip was on the trailing edge so I can fill the gaps easily enough. The problem as I see it is that the crack is long but very tight so getting epoxy into the joint satisfactorily would be next to impossible. I will have a look at cutting it out and replacing since it is going to be covered in glass. Just a little cautious of this part of the boat.

    As for the rig, I am afraid my lack of knowledge will shine through here. Based on my understanding of the literature I think it isn't a balanced lug rig rather a variation of a standing lug rig. Is it because the boom is attached to the mast and not floating. I am sure someone in the brains trust will tell me.



    The lack of photo's in my last was a bit of poor form so I bit the bullet and went out and glued up the thwart. Took about two minutes before the cup of epoxy started to get a bit hot so it was a quick action.

    First I have had to revisit basic maths from school to loft the foil shapes for the rudder and centreboard. Foil used is NACA 0012




    Centreboard glassed and waiting to be finished. It is central to completing the side seats and thwart so it is a bit of a pain and I should have been better in my forward planning.



    For the thwart I have made it out of two pieces of Blackwood. Lots of trial and error fitting with some cheap pine before taking this anywhere near a edge tool but it has paid off and the fit seems good. I have used a locking tongue and groove bit to join them together.



    The glued pieces - looks fantastic to my eye. My patience in joining the pieces before cutting has paid off as there are no gaps at all in the joint. It would appear I am getting better as I go along. There will be two under seat bearers and it will be fastened to the centreboard case, and fastened to the hull at the planks so I am confident there will be no twisting or other movements in these pieces.



    And that is that for this weekend, maybe!

    Mark
    Last edited by mwethers; 07-07-2017 at 12:01 AM.

  21. #56
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    The plans don't call for a floor but I can see one of my kids jumping on a plank and going through it so I am going to put one in, plus I think it finishes the boat nicely. This is my mock up so far.

    Last edited by mwethers; 07-07-2017 at 12:02 AM.

  22. #57
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Mark

    It's looking great. The Blackwood makes a splendid thwart.

    With the floorboards, make sure that they are easy to remove but fastened securely when the boat is in use. If you leave enough room between the boards, turn buttons are a good solution, and you can make them from offcuts of some dark hardwood eg. Blackwood or Jarrah or Ironbark.

    Yes a standing lug. Lovely looking rig. You will need to rig a boom vang to stop the sail from twisting too much. It can be very simple. A 2 part tackle will suffice.

    With this hot weather mix the epoxy in a flat rectangular takeaway container so that it doesn't get hot so quickly. Such a shame to have to throw it away when you can't use it fast enough, especially at the price!

    Cheers

    Graeme

  23. #58
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Hi Mark

    Great progress. It may seem slow but you are doing a lot of fitting, cutting seat cleats, getting epoxy just right, etc...Once you middle seat goes in you will look at the conglomeration of stringers, planks and love is all of the sudden a boat that will float.

    The seat looks great and so does the floorboard. That will come in handy when rowing, and you might consider fittings for a footrest that need attachments under the side seat while you have access. Here is my buddy Fred's boat, he has rowed over 1200 miles in his 2 Penobscots, and he is in his mid 70s!





    The middle section of Fred's bow and stern seat is removable, I think there were alignment pins on the inside edges and toggles on the bow and stern ends. Instead of an inspection port he put in a louvered vent, those are the kinds of things that a retired cabinet maker can craft.

    Check out the edges in Fred's boat. And mine as well. If a hand can grab it or a shin can bump into it, it is rounded over. Even those inside edges of the slats. I have actually cut a shin on just the 90 degree corner of a board. And when I helped my buddy build custom stairs he explained how it gives a piece like a stair tread a little character of use and softens the edge for the eye. I also found that some vagaries in my cutting can be disguised a bit as well. I use a 1/8 inch roundover and it looks like Fred's might be 1/4. Try them out on some scrap and get one with a roller bearing to reduce burn (still on my list to forget every time I am at the hardware store). At a minimum I take a piece of sandpaper and take of that razor edge. Something else I remembered on a different tack, stair tread are sold at some lumber stores and they are usually a very high grade of durable lumber, with nice vertical grain (VG), so they make great thwarts. And porch deck boards can be VG doug fir as well and make nice skiff planks.

    Here is the link to more pictures of Fred's award winning Deja Vu Too.

    A few other eye tricks that I used, I wanted a 1 inch thick seat, so on the aft edge of the middle seat I shaved the bottom edge up about 1/4 inch, tapered it back about an inch. Makes it look thinner and not bulky. And on the front edge I ran a saw kerf wide groove along the bottom, about 1/4 inch up from the bottom. It gave it a bead and cove look and makes the plank look a little lighter. We found a few of these details on the 1880s rowboat that we restored.



    You can also see a nice seat riser detail that is just pure craftsmanship, it is the little things that we notice.








  24. #59
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Good Morning All,

    Not much to report here but in the spirit of adding to the community I will post a couple of update shots.

    I was up with the chickens this morning to try and beat the heat in the shed and tidy up my centerboard pieces to try and convey what I am planning to you all. To get to the nearest usable body of water I have to trailer at least 60 km and I don't think that having the centerboard bouncing in the case was a good thing so I thought about making the board very simple to remove completely for transit - much like a dagger board is.
    Researching this I came across a thread on this forum where they used a bronze pin held in by garbutt drain plugs. The consensus was that it would work but was overkill and an expensive way of doing things.
    Since overkill works well for me especially in the centerboard area I went with it. Certainly more expensive than a simple bolt through the board but looks way better, very simple construction and I don't think it will leak. Cost I think has been around $120 Aus for all of the parts plus a six pack of beer for the guy who is turning my pin down to the right size.

    The drain cap is just there to hold the pin in. The pin will ride in bronze bushings through the board and sides of the case. I over-drilled all holes and filled with epoxy to create an epoxy bearing before roughing up the sides of the bronze to key into the epoxy.



    The cap in not fastened yet but will be bedded into the outside of the board on both sides:





    This is take two on my centerboard. Learnt from the first attempt and didn't make the same mistakes. The first board split down one of the strips when the trim bit caught on some loose grain and tore it out of my hands and across the shed. I did think of just cutting out the damage and scarfing in a new piece but on closer inspection I realised that there was more damage than I thought with several fractures in the timber so I scrapped the board and started again. This one came out much better. The photo here is pre-shaping but has the bronze bushing installed and the hole for the handle completed. Just need to shape and glass then it is done.


    This is the final fitting for my rear seats. Happy with this - very solid and looks good in the finished state. It will be a while till I get to varnish but I am sure the timber will look great. The floor I will come back to once I finish the front half.



    This last shot was supposed to remind all those under six feet of snow what summer looks like but there was too much glare to get a good shot. This was at 0700 this morning and already 35deg C in the shed. Anyway it is a good shot of the whole boat.


    Plan for today is not much really. I have to epoxy and it is too hot in the day so tonight I will finish the interior of the case with a layer of graphite and epoxy so I can finally assemble it and install into the boat. The cricket final was last night so I should be able to spend more time in the shed at night now - at least till football stats in earnest.

    Mark
    Last edited by mwethers; 07-07-2017 at 12:08 AM.

  25. #60
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Mark

    The boat is looking great!

    To stop my centreboard rattling around I have a thin piece of wooden trim about 5mmx20mm and 250mm long with a chunky cross piece on top which I slide between the board and the case side when I'm trailing the boat. As my board is metal I also release the board tackle so the board rests on the trailer roller underneath. Seems to work well even on long trips, ie. 350km to Mallacoota, 1100km to Goolwa as well as those short hops down to the lake.

    Autumn weather is looking attractive from where we are in this intense summer.

    Cheers

    Graeme

  26. #61
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Hi Graeme, thanks for the comments re the boat. I think I can see the end or at least I can start to work out what has to be done to get there. The big motivation will be to get the interior constructed before the sail is made which should be before the end of march. That will give me a bit of time before spring to take care of the finishing.

    I have seen various methods of pining the centerboard and the wedge as you described is certainly simple and easy. It may well be the method I use to go "short" distances such as to Lake Burley Griffen but for the coastal trips I will be cautious at least till I get used to how the boat travels on a trailer.

    My wife wanted to clean the house so I went back out to the shed and put on the graphite coats. I used the slow hardener and had heaps of time. I must say though that the graphite is awful stuff to use. It seems to get everywhere and makes the epoxy slippery to apply. Glad I taped everything well before applying it.

    On a bright note my darling wife came out and said she likes it when I am building a boat and expects me to build another when this is done - woo hoo! I knew she was a keeper. I like the Vivier designed Koulmig 20 cabin motor boat having had the study sheets translated so I might have to measure up my shed for when I finish the Penobscot.

    And yes roll on Autum so we can complain about the cold and wet for a change...
    Mark

  27. #62
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Mark

    Vivier certainly designs an attractive boat and Koulmig would keep you in the shed for quite sometime. I am sure your wife would be well pleased with the outcome given the standard you are setting with the Penobscot 14.

    Cheers

    Graeme

  28. #63
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Nice work on the Penobscot 14. I have just completed the same boat and recently displayed it at the Australian wooden boat festival in Hobart.
    I think it is a very good design, and it rows beautifully too! I have built the Lug rig mast, still working on the boom and yard preparing for a sail this winter.
    Cheers, Tim.

  29. #64
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    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Thanks Tim. I don't know if I would be brave enough to put my boat side by side with some of the art works in Hobart. How was your boat received? I have put in a leave plan for 2019 Wooden Boat show so never say never.

    I have been pushed with work of late so progress has been very haphazard at best. Just too hard to get motivated to go to shed at 9.00 at night when I get home. I had plans for a bit of work this weekend but a parade at work yesterday and then a free dump day today meant that the morning was spent cleaning the house and yard...and now this is rolling in over the hills so there is a bit of a storm warning current and no more epoxy today:




    My wife said I committed to marrying her easier than I have to getting the centerboard case into the boat but I have just about run out of excuses and after a coat of special clear dries it will be time to screw and glue. I love how the timber starts to pop in this photo. The plywood sides will be painted but hardwood trim will be varnished:



    I also did the blackwood front seat supports so I can get them into the boat. This is where the real delay in my building has come from. Because I strayed from the plans everything is custom fit trial and error and getting the front thwart right has taken a lot of mathematical aerobics:



    And Santa came early - or really late - with my rudder fittings from classic marine. Chunky and expensive (according to the minister of fun and beer tickets) but oh so nice:



    Does anyone have thoughts on splicing timbers for a 14 foot mast? I ask as I have a lot of golden cypress but as it is for bee hive boxes there are a lot of knots in each length. I could easily make up the required length with one splice in each layer (Arch's plans are three layers of 3/4in timber to make up the blank). I could easily go and buy some hoop pine in the required lengths but would prefer to save that $300.00 to put towards a trailer.

    Mark
    Last edited by mwethers; 07-07-2017 at 12:11 AM.

  30. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    sydney nsw australia
    Posts
    2

    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    My boat enjoyed its four days on display Mark! Not many people who showed interest in her knew of Arch Davis or his designs but were mostly positive with the work and my boat. I gladly advised them of his website and his very good design service. A nice group of Kiwis visiting the show did know of Arch Davis and his designs and we enjoyed exchanging a few stories. I can highly advise getting to the show, I have never been before but had previously heard all about it from the guys I sail with. It was a great weekend and hopefully will attend the next one but probably without my boat.

    My Penobscot 14 was mostly built at night time after my kids had gone to sleep, it was very easy to lose track of time once in the shed under my house.
    Have you thought of using Oregon for the spars? You might be able to source some half decent pieces at your local timber yard that wouldn't be too pricey.

    Those knees look very nice by the way!
    I used Arch's light weight stainless rudder hardware as everything metal on my boat is polished stainless or chrome plated.
    I will try to get a photo of my boat uploaded, its my first time posting on the forum. It may not go too smoothly!
    Tim.

  31. #66
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Collector, New South Wales, Australia
    Posts
    72

    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Well it is a beautiful autumn day perfect to be in the shed - well in the yard mowing actually but it is a long weekend so why do today what I can do in two days time huh?

    First though I had to appease the wife and finish another bee hive as I have been given a langstroth hive and need to transfer those bees to my hive before it gets really cold. The boat connection - it is wood (Cypress) and the finish is one I found in an old boating article from equal parts of beeswax, gum turpentine, and boiled linseed oil.




    I have finally committed to my shed mistress and installed the centerboard case. Have yet to get out the case capping which I will get around to once I install the seat, which will be after I sand and apply a coat of epoxy the the hull, and then paint and......



    I never know just how much to put on this page in terms of process and generally I never take photo's of the process as I get too caught up in the process to take the time and stop. But anyway....

    I had a red back spider set up camp in the forward compartment so I thought that would be the next project. To start with I went crazy filleting every stringer, plank and stem connection possible... so please excuse the messy photo below as I haven't tidied it up yet. This area will never be seen but I still need it relatively smooth so I can keep and eye on water ingress etc. To start with I made a center partition which is not in the plans but I want to have additional seat support so some fat bum doesn't fall through at some stage. That was the easy bit.



    The top shelf has to go around the stringers so I have created a template thus:

    1. created a check strip following the edge of the hull and a 6in offcut which gave me a piece of timber with pencil marks all over it which confused the hell out of me initially - But I had a general idea of what I was doing - not helping myself by working in both metric and imperial measurements though!



    I then transferred those measurements onto another sheet:



    Which gave me the template to move forward and finish off the bulkhead with good timber after a few tweaks.



    And that is it for now.

    Mark
    Last edited by mwethers; 07-07-2017 at 12:15 AM.

  32. #67
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Canberra, ACT, Australia
    Posts
    122

    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Mark

    Beehives and boats are an odd mixture but I also have built both!

    Your centreboard and case look grand. This boat is looking well on the way to hull completion.

    Graeme

  33. #68
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Collector, New South Wales, Australia
    Posts
    72

    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Now who would have thought two day ago when i put off the mowing that it would be belting down with rain today??

    I did manage to some posts in for the wife's passion-fruit vine but now with the rain there is nothing for it but to hit the shed again.

    In the spirit of using whatever is at hand when epoxying I give you shale rock! Not as heavy as it looks but I wanted to get some even pressure across all glued strips so whilst this looks brutal it works - I did the left side last night and it came up even and well glued.



    I also made a start on finishing the rudder - first side of glass.



    and whilst everything is drying I have put my make believe track saw to use to make a start on my spars. Using cypress as I have heaps of it, its pest and water resistant naturally and looks great varnished - and want to see if I can make up the required lengths before buying different full length pieces.

    Last edited by mwethers; 07-07-2017 at 12:17 AM.

  34. #69
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Collector, New South Wales, Australia
    Posts
    72

    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Well a photo without the rock is in order. It came out fairly well as I had envisaged it.



    So that means that the basic hull construction is finished and now after sand, paint and assemble I can move up to the breasthook and mast partner next




    Last edited by mwethers; 07-07-2017 at 12:20 AM.

  35. #70
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Collector, New South Wales, Australia
    Posts
    72

    Default Re: Penobscot 14 in Canberra Aus

    Last one - I knocked up the trim for the front of the compartment to match the rear one. I think it is Queensland Silky Oak as it was a conveniently sized off cut that matched everything else.
    Just sitting there for now - not glued or screwed on.



    Mark
    Last edited by mwethers; 07-07-2017 at 12:21 AM.

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