Senior Member
Scott,
As said earlier, I am happy with the Jet. Found the Jet assembly instructions complete and set-up was a snap.
If you want to travel for a couple hours Scott, your welcome to test drive the unit. Bring along some ply, and you can start those molds!
Andy A.
...as for Jet vs Delta...what was true yesterday may no longer be valid...seems that there's a whole bunch of Delta jointers out there with inferior castings now that they've gone offshore...most of the woodworker forums report Jet's quality control to be superior....'course all this is subject to manual recount
...as for Jet vs Delta...what was true yesterday may no longer be valid...seems that there's a whole bunch of Delta jointers out there with inferior castings now that they've gone offshore...most of the woodworker forums report Jet's quality control to be superior....'course all this is subject to manual recount
...as for Jet vs Delta...what was true yesterday may no longer be valid...seems that there's a whole bunch of Delta jointers out there with inferior castings now that they've gone offshore...most of the woodworker forums report Jet's quality control to be superior....'course all this is subject to manual recount
Senior Member
Scott - if you have to do a lot of resawing to get cold molding stock, you may want to reconsider band saw vs. table saw. I sawed all my stock out on the table saw, using a thin kerf blade. I could use the stock directly in molding. I would wonder if the result of band sawing is good enough - whether there are problems with controlling thickness and surface roughness. Since I haven't tried to band saw molding stock, I can't comment on how well it works. If what you are after is 1/8" veneer, you may want to consider buying it rather than making it. I've had reasonably good luck with meranti veneer, although I grant the quality is highly variable; I've had some which was not properly kiln dried and was weak and brittle.
For your futures list: I picked up a thicknessing sander not too long ago, and it is exceptional for producing really consistent thickness and surface quality for molding stock, and for final cleaning up of molded items. It definitely is a tool you'd get after a table saw and a band saw.
The comment about picking up the tool the job needs is certainly true. If you do it enough times, you get a really well equipped shop - and you actually needed all the stuff at some point or other.
Senior Member
Scott - if you have to do a lot of resawing to get cold molding stock, you may want to reconsider band saw vs. table saw. I sawed all my stock out on the table saw, using a thin kerf blade. I could use the stock directly in molding. I would wonder if the result of band sawing is good enough - whether there are problems with controlling thickness and surface roughness. Since I haven't tried to band saw molding stock, I can't comment on how well it works. If what you are after is 1/8" veneer, you may want to consider buying it rather than making it. I've had reasonably good luck with meranti veneer, although I grant the quality is highly variable; I've had some which was not properly kiln dried and was weak and brittle.
For your futures list: I picked up a thicknessing sander not too long ago, and it is exceptional for producing really consistent thickness and surface quality for molding stock, and for final cleaning up of molded items. It definitely is a tool you'd get after a table saw and a band saw.
The comment about picking up the tool the job needs is certainly true. If you do it enough times, you get a really well equipped shop - and you actually needed all the stuff at some point or other.
Senior Member
Scott - if you have to do a lot of resawing to get cold molding stock, you may want to reconsider band saw vs. table saw. I sawed all my stock out on the table saw, using a thin kerf blade. I could use the stock directly in molding. I would wonder if the result of band sawing is good enough - whether there are problems with controlling thickness and surface roughness. Since I haven't tried to band saw molding stock, I can't comment on how well it works. If what you are after is 1/8" veneer, you may want to consider buying it rather than making it. I've had reasonably good luck with meranti veneer, although I grant the quality is highly variable; I've had some which was not properly kiln dried and was weak and brittle.
For your futures list: I picked up a thicknessing sander not too long ago, and it is exceptional for producing really consistent thickness and surface quality for molding stock, and for final cleaning up of molded items. It definitely is a tool you'd get after a table saw and a band saw.
The comment about picking up the tool the job needs is certainly true. If you do it enough times, you get a really well equipped shop - and you actually needed all the stuff at some point or other.
Junior Member
Get her to spring for a few more bucks and look for a used Delta Unisaw. Most important tool in your arsenal. Will re-saw anything.
Small bandsaws are only good for cutting curves in small stock. Good for mould frames!
($.02) (Canadian $)
Junior Member
Get her to spring for a few more bucks and look for a used Delta Unisaw. Most important tool in your arsenal. Will re-saw anything.
Small bandsaws are only good for cutting curves in small stock. Good for mould frames!
($.02) (Canadian $)
Junior Member
Get her to spring for a few more bucks and look for a used Delta Unisaw. Most important tool in your arsenal. Will re-saw anything.
Small bandsaws are only good for cutting curves in small stock. Good for mould frames!
($.02) (Canadian $)
Senior Member
I agree with Ross about using the table saw for making veneers especially if the height of the blade provides sufficient width of veneer. If not then it becomes a worrisome task. I set a feather board at the verticle mid point of the board above the saw blade. The board is flipped end for end for the second cut. You shouldn't cut all the way through as the feather board would cause the blade to be pinched. Finish the cut on the band saw. Of coursehis requires joining or sanding the board flat.
I have succesfully used the bandsaw to resaw using a post parallel to the blade set at the desire thickness away from the blade. This allows the board to be move side to side to keep the blade on track, but it was hit or miss as the grain would often cause the blade to wander out at the bottom of the board. Even then the board had to be dressed as with above. If someone has a more successfull method of resawing I hope they share it.
While I do like using bandsaw and use them frequently when I'm at my local craft center a sabre saw serves me well enough at home. It's use of the table saw that brings me to the craft center more often than not.
Consequently, I would probably buy veneer if I had need of a quantity.
Senior Member
I agree with Ross about using the table saw for making veneers especially if the height of the blade provides sufficient width of veneer. If not then it becomes a worrisome task. I set a feather board at the verticle mid point of the board above the saw blade. The board is flipped end for end for the second cut. You shouldn't cut all the way through as the feather board would cause the blade to be pinched. Finish the cut on the band saw. Of coursehis requires joining or sanding the board flat.
I have succesfully used the bandsaw to resaw using a post parallel to the blade set at the desire thickness away from the blade. This allows the board to be move side to side to keep the blade on track, but it was hit or miss as the grain would often cause the blade to wander out at the bottom of the board. Even then the board had to be dressed as with above. If someone has a more successfull method of resawing I hope they share it.
While I do like using bandsaw and use them frequently when I'm at my local craft center a sabre saw serves me well enough at home. It's use of the table saw that brings me to the craft center more often than not.
Consequently, I would probably buy veneer if I had need of a quantity.
Senior Member
I agree with Ross about using the table saw for making veneers especially if the height of the blade provides sufficient width of veneer. If not then it becomes a worrisome task. I set a feather board at the verticle mid point of the board above the saw blade. The board is flipped end for end for the second cut. You shouldn't cut all the way through as the feather board would cause the blade to be pinched. Finish the cut on the band saw. Of coursehis requires joining or sanding the board flat.
I have succesfully used the bandsaw to resaw using a post parallel to the blade set at the desire thickness away from the blade. This allows the board to be move side to side to keep the blade on track, but it was hit or miss as the grain would often cause the blade to wander out at the bottom of the board. Even then the board had to be dressed as with above. If someone has a more successfull method of resawing I hope they share it.
While I do like using bandsaw and use them frequently when I'm at my local craft center a sabre saw serves me well enough at home. It's use of the table saw that brings me to the craft center more often than not.
Consequently, I would probably buy veneer if I had need of a quantity.
Senior Member
Unless you've got a buch of straight lines to do I'd definitely go with the band saw. I've resawn 6" wide stock with my 10" Inca with very little variation. I find a solidly clamped tall fence works the best, but it must be exactly aligned with the plane of the blade and the blade should be as wide as the saw can handle with very few teeth (3-4/Inch). I used a 1"x3tooth with the Inca. Just take it off when finished as it is a bit hard on the saw. Get everything aligned with the proper path of the blade to just maintain that path and you should get quite good results.
As far as safety goes, Just remember that Hobart makes more band saws than probably any other manufacturer. They're just for cutting up meat and that's all you are.
Jamie
Senior Member
Unless you've got a buch of straight lines to do I'd definitely go with the band saw. I've resawn 6" wide stock with my 10" Inca with very little variation. I find a solidly clamped tall fence works the best, but it must be exactly aligned with the plane of the blade and the blade should be as wide as the saw can handle with very few teeth (3-4/Inch). I used a 1"x3tooth with the Inca. Just take it off when finished as it is a bit hard on the saw. Get everything aligned with the proper path of the blade to just maintain that path and you should get quite good results.
As far as safety goes, Just remember that Hobart makes more band saws than probably any other manufacturer. They're just for cutting up meat and that's all you are.
Jamie
Senior Member
Unless you've got a buch of straight lines to do I'd definitely go with the band saw. I've resawn 6" wide stock with my 10" Inca with very little variation. I find a solidly clamped tall fence works the best, but it must be exactly aligned with the plane of the blade and the blade should be as wide as the saw can handle with very few teeth (3-4/Inch). I used a 1"x3tooth with the Inca. Just take it off when finished as it is a bit hard on the saw. Get everything aligned with the proper path of the blade to just maintain that path and you should get quite good results.
As far as safety goes, Just remember that Hobart makes more band saws than probably any other manufacturer. They're just for cutting up meat and that's all you are.
Jamie
Retro Member #1235
Hey Scott, we're closing in on three weeks - what did you do? I haven't seen a check roll in from you, so at least I know one possible choice that you chose not to make.
Retro Member #1235
Hey Scott, we're closing in on three weeks - what did you do? I haven't seen a check roll in from you, so at least I know one possible choice that you chose not to make.
Retro Member #1235
Hey Scott, we're closing in on three weeks - what did you do? I haven't seen a check roll in from you, so at least I know one possible choice that you chose not to make.
Senior Member
After waivering back and forth, over and over again, I've now decided to go with the table saw. I'm looking at the Delta 10" Contractors' models. I figure I can always cut curves with my jig saw, but there are so many things that are best done with a good table saw. With a good fence, I can even use it for jointing.
But I'm still counting ballots and examining chads.
Senior Member
After waivering back and forth, over and over again, I've now decided to go with the table saw. I'm looking at the Delta 10" Contractors' models. I figure I can always cut curves with my jig saw, but there are so many things that are best done with a good table saw. With a good fence, I can even use it for jointing.
But I'm still counting ballots and examining chads.
Senior Member
After waivering back and forth, over and over again, I've now decided to go with the table saw. I'm looking at the Delta 10" Contractors' models. I figure I can always cut curves with my jig saw, but there are so many things that are best done with a good table saw. With a good fence, I can even use it for jointing.
But I'm still counting ballots and examining chads.
if you are locking for a table saws go to grizzly atgrizzly.com
if you are locking for a table saws go to grizzly atgrizzly.com
if you are locking for a table saws go to grizzly atgrizzly.com
Scott: After much advice on this forum and elsewhere, I went with the Delta Model 36-600 for five hundred bucks. I'm quite happy with it, other than not liking the location of the on-off switch. I understand, though, that the current model has moved that switch to a better location.
Good luck.
www
Scott: After much advice on this forum and elsewhere, I went with the Delta Model 36-600 for five hundred bucks. I'm quite happy with it, other than not liking the location of the on-off switch. I understand, though, that the current model has moved that switch to a better location.
Good luck.
www
Scott: After much advice on this forum and elsewhere, I went with the Delta Model 36-600 for five hundred bucks. I'm quite happy with it, other than not liking the location of the on-off switch. I understand, though, that the current model has moved that switch to a better location.
Good luck.
www
Senior Scallywag
Having had a finger or two stitched back on' it's really not all that bad as long as yo+u remember to pick 'em up' rinse 'em off' and get 'em on ice in the first 3 or 4 minutes to preserve the nerves.
Senior Scallywag
Having had a finger or two stitched back on' it's really not all that bad as long as yo+u remember to pick 'em up' rinse 'em off' and get 'em on ice in the first 3 or 4 minutes to preserve the nerves.
Senior Scallywag
Having had a finger or two stitched back on' it's really not all that bad as long as yo+u remember to pick 'em up' rinse 'em off' and get 'em on ice in the first 3 or 4 minutes to preserve the nerves.
Retro Member #1235
If you can manage to sneak some extra ballots into the box, you might consider one with a side table and Uni or Beysmeyer (sp?) fence. Mine has the 30 odd " table and Unifence. I find that it meets most of my needs (although that extra horizontal surface poses a severe challange to those with HSS).
In anycase, make yourself a SLAT (SLiding Auxiliary Table). Basically a piece of ply with a hefty hunk of wood (in my case 2x4 across the end nearest you) attached SQUARE to the blade. You'll wonder how you ever got along without it. For more instructions see Don Casey's "This Old Boat" or Practical Yacht Joinery" (Bruce Binghamton?) not certain. Someone will know, probably any decent tablesaw book will have plans. I have one (book) at home, but can't remember whether one (SLAT) is discussed.
Retro Member #1235
If you can manage to sneak some extra ballots into the box, you might consider one with a side table and Uni or Beysmeyer (sp?) fence. Mine has the 30 odd " table and Unifence. I find that it meets most of my needs (although that extra horizontal surface poses a severe challange to those with HSS).
In anycase, make yourself a SLAT (SLiding Auxiliary Table). Basically a piece of ply with a hefty hunk of wood (in my case 2x4 across the end nearest you) attached SQUARE to the blade. You'll wonder how you ever got along without it. For more instructions see Don Casey's "This Old Boat" or Practical Yacht Joinery" (Bruce Binghamton?) not certain. Someone will know, probably any decent tablesaw book will have plans. I have one (book) at home, but can't remember whether one (SLAT) is discussed.
Retro Member #1235
If you can manage to sneak some extra ballots into the box, you might consider one with a side table and Uni or Beysmeyer (sp?) fence. Mine has the 30 odd " table and Unifence. I find that it meets most of my needs (although that extra horizontal surface poses a severe challange to those with HSS).
In anycase, make yourself a SLAT (SLiding Auxiliary Table). Basically a piece of ply with a hefty hunk of wood (in my case 2x4 across the end nearest you) attached SQUARE to the blade. You'll wonder how you ever got along without it. For more instructions see Don Casey's "This Old Boat" or Practical Yacht Joinery" (Bruce Binghamton?) not certain. Someone will know, probably any decent tablesaw book will have plans. I have one (book) at home, but can't remember whether one (SLAT) is discussed.
Senior Member
Whatever tablesaw you might have, Ed's advice on making a cutoff box is the best you will get. Makes cutting large square panels easy and is the best for repetitive cuts, especially for small stuff where it greatly increases safety.
Senior Member
Whatever tablesaw you might have, Ed's advice on making a cutoff box is the best you will get. Makes cutting large square panels easy and is the best for repetitive cuts, especially for small stuff where it greatly increases safety.
Senior Member
Whatever tablesaw you might have, Ed's advice on making a cutoff box is the best you will get. Makes cutting large square panels easy and is the best for repetitive cuts, especially for small stuff where it greatly increases safety.
Original Member #2569!
Well my .02 says get a good 14" model; I have the Delta w/ the enclosed stand. As far as safety goes I've cut the same thumb on both the Delta Contractors (table) saw and the bandsaw. Fortunately I only lost some blood and pride. Both hurt like hell but the bandsaw cut was ragged and took forever to heal. I think the bandsaw is much more dangerous. 20 years of playing w/ wood/boats speaking now. Regards. David
Original Member #2569!
Well my .02 says get a good 14" model; I have the Delta w/ the enclosed stand. As far as safety goes I've cut the same thumb on both the Delta Contractors (table) saw and the bandsaw. Fortunately I only lost some blood and pride. Both hurt like hell but the bandsaw cut was ragged and took forever to heal. I think the bandsaw is much more dangerous. 20 years of playing w/ wood/boats speaking now. Regards. David
Original Member #2569!
Well my .02 says get a good 14" model; I have the Delta w/ the enclosed stand. As far as safety goes I've cut the same thumb on both the Delta Contractors (table) saw and the bandsaw. Fortunately I only lost some blood and pride. Both hurt like hell but the bandsaw cut was ragged and took forever to heal. I think the bandsaw is much more dangerous. 20 years of playing w/ wood/boats speaking now. Regards. David
Retro Member #1235
Scott, about a month and a half have passed. Any news? Any wood cut?
Retro Member #1235
Scott, about a month and a half have passed. Any news? Any wood cut?
Retro Member #1235
Scott, about a month and a half have passed. Any news? Any wood cut?
I don't know why the unisaw seems to be the ultimate saw. I much prefer powermatic. The switch is on the left, where it should be, the blade tilts away from the fence, and even though they are both 3 horsepower, the powermatic has more guts. I've owned my model 66 for 15 years of daily use, and wouldn't consider a unisaw. Yes, I have used a unisaw while working for Hinckley for 2 years. I've seen powermatics sell used for as little as 500 dollars. I have a 20 inch bandsaw that works grea, but the tablesaw is the real workhorse in my shop.
I don't know why the unisaw seems to be the ultimate saw. I much prefer powermatic. The switch is on the left, where it should be, the blade tilts away from the fence, and even though they are both 3 horsepower, the powermatic has more guts. I've owned my model 66 for 15 years of daily use, and wouldn't consider a unisaw. Yes, I have used a unisaw while working for Hinckley for 2 years. I've seen powermatics sell used for as little as 500 dollars. I have a 20 inch bandsaw that works grea, but the tablesaw is the real workhorse in my shop.
I don't know why the unisaw seems to be the ultimate saw. I much prefer powermatic. The switch is on the left, where it should be, the blade tilts away from the fence, and even though they are both 3 horsepower, the powermatic has more guts. I've owned my model 66 for 15 years of daily use, and wouldn't consider a unisaw. Yes, I have used a unisaw while working for Hinckley for 2 years. I've seen powermatics sell used for as little as 500 dollars. I have a 20 inch bandsaw that works grea, but the tablesaw is the real workhorse in my shop.
Senior Member
I'm going with Delta 10" table saw, but I haven't picked a model yet. Work's been real busy lately, so I haven't had the time to make the space for it and actually order it. I haven't even had time to read the Forum for a week. I hope to be cutting wood before the spring.
Senior Member
I'm going with Delta 10" table saw, but I haven't picked a model yet. Work's been real busy lately, so I haven't had the time to make the space for it and actually order it. I haven't even had time to read the Forum for a week. I hope to be cutting wood before the spring.
Senior Member
I'm going with Delta 10" table saw, but I haven't picked a model yet. Work's been real busy lately, so I haven't had the time to make the space for it and actually order it. I haven't even had time to read the Forum for a week. I hope to be cutting wood before the spring.
Senior Member
Scott,
You won't regret a table saw, especially if you have any cabinetry projects in mind.
My impression a few years back, during a visit to Woodworkers Warehouse, was that for the contractors type open stand saws some of the foreign labels (I think most of the castings and such are all foreign these days) were a better value. A review of the last few years of Fine Woodworking or Fine Home Building would give a Consumer's Report type review of the options.
The tablesaw in an interesting "weapon". So much of its versatility depends on set up (outfeed rigs, room to pass large stock, fence, etc). If you're serious about any detailed work, plan on replacing the stock fence to a pretty $ tune.
The last time I worked much with one was in a large (spacewise) shop with an old well tuned unisaw set into a sturdy plywood table of perhaps twenty square feet. Lot's of room around the saw for sheet goods, long stock, and stopping to ponder. Ideal set up, except for some of the "really" fancy saws I've seen in really special shops.
That said, with a contractor's saw and some innovative thinking, you can accomplish a tremendous amount on a non/semi-commercial level. I sold my Delta contractor's saw to a fellow I was subcontracting to 'cause he had a shop and I didn't. and we went on to build many manners of houses and cabinets with it. Check out Fine Woodworking's book on small shops. Best of luck, Jack
P.S. Do be careful. I maintain the table saw is the potentially most disasterous tool in the shop. Haven't seen a commercial guard yet that wasn't removed, and if you get into intricate work you WILL bend the rules. Bend them only as your real understanding of the tool increases. The unexpected kick, in squirrely stock, when fingers happen to be in the wrong place--the danger. Don't get cocky! Lost fingers come down to inatention and pride. He he.
Amazing really, a circular blade set into a table. Where did that come from? A Shaker woman came up with the concept in 1813, or so I hear.
Now there is a story, but the details slip the steel sieve of my mind.
Best, Jack
[This message has been edited by ishmael (edited 01-15-2001).]
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