Small marine diesel recommendations

[John A. Campbell]

I am planning to build the 15'10" inboard motor launch "Victor Slocum"....plans call for the 6 hp Palmer "Baby Huskie" which is long extinct. My initial thought was the 12 hp Westerbeke 12C-TWO 2-cyl. 12 hp diesel. I also have quotes for the Farymann 18W 1-cyl. (7 hp) , Yanmar 1GM10 1-cyl. (8 hp), Yanmar 2-cyl. 2YM-15 (12.8 hp), and Lombardini LDW502M 2-cyl. (13 hp). I also have a quote for the so-called "Mudboat engine" which is an air-cooled Robin/Subaru 18 hp gasoline V-Twin mated to a Technodrive marine transmission sold through M. & L. Engine Co. located in Houma, Louisiana.

I had been told the 2-cylinder diesel engines were MUCH quieter and smoother than the singles.....is this really the case? I would like to hear comments from anyone on any of these engines with regard to dependability and especially to the application I am planning. The Robin/Subaru has flame arrestor, etc. for marine use and is about half the price of the 2-cylinder diesels but I am somewhat reluctant to use it because of the fire hazard and the fact that it has 3 times the original plan-specified power. I have also learned that Yanmar requires a "sea trial" sort of inspection procedure of the engine/transmission assembly in the finished boat IN THE WATER before they will set up the warranty. I am wondering if this is really Yanmar's policy or is this the Yanmar distributor's policy....anyone heard of this on any of these other engines or other distributors?

[John A. Campbell]

I am planning to build the 15'10" inboard motor launch "Victor Slocum"....plans call for the 6 hp Palmer "Baby Huskie" which is long extinct. My initial thought was the 12 hp Westerbeke 12C-TWO 2-cyl. 12 hp diesel. I also have quotes for the Farymann 18W 1-cyl. (7 hp) , Yanmar 1GM10 1-cyl. (8 hp), Yanmar 2-cyl. 2YM-15 (12.8 hp), and Lombardini LDW502M 2-cyl. (13 hp). I also have a quote for the so-called "Mudboat engine" which is an air-cooled Robin/Subaru 18 hp gasoline V-Twin mated to a Technodrive marine transmission sold through M. & L. Engine Co. located in Houma, Louisiana.

I had been told the 2-cylinder diesel engines were MUCH quieter and smoother than the singles.....is this really the case? I would like to hear comments from anyone on any of these engines with regard to dependability and especially to the application I am planning. The Robin/Subaru has flame arrestor, etc. for marine use and is about half the price of the 2-cylinder diesels but I am somewhat reluctant to use it because of the fire hazard and the fact that it has 3 times the original plan-specified power. I have also learned that Yanmar requires a "sea trial" sort of inspection procedure of the engine/transmission assembly in the finished boat IN THE WATER before they will set up the warranty. I am wondering if this is really Yanmar's policy or is this the Yanmar distributor's policy....anyone heard of this on any of these other engines or other distributors?

[John A. Campbell]

I am planning to build the 15'10" inboard motor launch "Victor Slocum"....plans call for the 6 hp Palmer "Baby Huskie" which is long extinct. My initial thought was the 12 hp Westerbeke 12C-TWO 2-cyl. 12 hp diesel. I also have quotes for the Farymann 18W 1-cyl. (7 hp) , Yanmar 1GM10 1-cyl. (8 hp), Yanmar 2-cyl. 2YM-15 (12.8 hp), and Lombardini LDW502M 2-cyl. (13 hp). I also have a quote for the so-called "Mudboat engine" which is an air-cooled Robin/Subaru 18 hp gasoline V-Twin mated to a Technodrive marine transmission sold through M. & L. Engine Co. located in Houma, Louisiana.

I had been told the 2-cylinder diesel engines were MUCH quieter and smoother than the singles.....is this really the case? I would like to hear comments from anyone on any of these engines with regard to dependability and especially to the application I am planning. The Robin/Subaru has flame arrestor, etc. for marine use and is about half the price of the 2-cylinder diesels but I am somewhat reluctant to use it because of the fire hazard and the fact that it has 3 times the original plan-specified power. I have also learned that Yanmar requires a "sea trial" sort of inspection procedure of the engine/transmission assembly in the finished boat IN THE WATER before they will set up the warranty. I am wondering if this is really Yanmar's policy or is this the Yanmar distributor's policy....anyone heard of this on any of these other engines or other distributors?

[Bob Adams]

I think you may find the Yanmar installation inspection is really for the high preformance diesels, where they have "the rubber band streached real tight", getting major horsepower out of lightweight engines.I doubt if it would apply in your horsepower range.

[Bob Adams]

I think you may find the Yanmar installation inspection is really for the high preformance diesels, where they have "the rubber band streached real tight", getting major horsepower out of lightweight engines.I doubt if it would apply in your horsepower range.

[Bob Adams]

I think you may find the Yanmar installation inspection is really for the high preformance diesels, where they have "the rubber band streached real tight", getting major horsepower out of lightweight engines.I doubt if it would apply in your horsepower range.

[Stiletto]

As I see it, the Yanmar policy has the advantage that the warranty only starts once the boat is up and running rather than ticking away like a taxi meter at a stoplight while you are still working on the boat.

[Stiletto]

As I see it, the Yanmar policy has the advantage that the warranty only starts once the boat is up and running rather than ticking away like a taxi meter at a stoplight while you are still working on the boat.

[Stiletto]

As I see it, the Yanmar policy has the advantage that the warranty only starts once the boat is up and running rather than ticking away like a taxi meter at a stoplight while you are still working on the boat.

[John A. Campbell]

Bob, the "sea trial", per Palmer Power Co. in Houston, Texas) applies to all Yanmar engines including the 1GM10...............Palmer is the Texas distributor for Yanmar marine engines.

By the way, I forgot to mention that I also had quotes from Blaxland Marine Engine Co. of Australia. The 3 1/2 hp unit is $4000 Aus. and the 7 hp twin is $5000 Aus plus $500 Aus for a clutch on either unit. They have a 5 year warranty on the engine and 1 year on the clutch. These are 2-stroke gasoline engines, flywheel start, and you flip the magneto at a low idle with clutch disengaged to go forward or reverse. They are very small, low RPM, and lots of torque.....single cylinder weighs 68 kilos, the twin weighs around 82 kilos.

[John A. Campbell]

Bob, the "sea trial", per Palmer Power Co. in Houston, Texas) applies to all Yanmar engines including the 1GM10...............Palmer is the Texas distributor for Yanmar marine engines.

By the way, I forgot to mention that I also had quotes from Blaxland Marine Engine Co. of Australia. The 3 1/2 hp unit is $4000 Aus. and the 7 hp twin is $5000 Aus plus $500 Aus for a clutch on either unit. They have a 5 year warranty on the engine and 1 year on the clutch. These are 2-stroke gasoline engines, flywheel start, and you flip the magneto at a low idle with clutch disengaged to go forward or reverse. They are very small, low RPM, and lots of torque.....single cylinder weighs 68 kilos, the twin weighs around 82 kilos.

[John A. Campbell]

Bob, the "sea trial", per Palmer Power Co. in Houston, Texas) applies to all Yanmar engines including the 1GM10...............Palmer is the Texas distributor for Yanmar marine engines.

By the way, I forgot to mention that I also had quotes from Blaxland Marine Engine Co. of Australia. The 3 1/2 hp unit is $4000 Aus. and the 7 hp twin is $5000 Aus plus $500 Aus for a clutch on either unit. They have a 5 year warranty on the engine and 1 year on the clutch. These are 2-stroke gasoline engines, flywheel start, and you flip the magneto at a low idle with clutch disengaged to go forward or reverse. They are very small, low RPM, and lots of torque.....single cylinder weighs 68 kilos, the twin weighs around 82 kilos.

[Jim Mathieson]

I'd look at the Danish BUKH DV8 .
It's a single .Google it ,they have a US distributor.

[Jim Mathieson]

I'd look at the Danish BUKH DV8 .
It's a single .Google it ,they have a US distributor.

[Jim Mathieson]

I'd look at the Danish BUKH DV8 .
It's a single .Google it ,they have a US distributor.

[RonW]

Positively get a 2 cylinder, you do not want a one cylinder, they have way too much vibration and noise.
A couple years ago I checked into a 10 horse westerburke with forward and reverse gear box, and it was $4,500 a absurd and way overflated price in my opinion. The salesman told me not to buy it, but go with the 12 horse instead which is a 2 cylinder, that the noise and vibration of the one cylinder was ridiculous.
I would suggest to build a much bigger boat, the cost of the boat itself isn't all that great, but the cost of a engine, shaft, prop and all else plus the trailer is what drives the total price tag way up. So why not have a bigger boat that is more comfortable and you can go more places.
A lot of these old designs like the Atkin's with a little engine turning a prop are neat, but the cost of propulsion almost makes them too costly to build.You may also look around at maybe a farm and tractor supply, as well as tool suppliers and find a kohler or briggs engine, even in diesel for 1/3 or less of that price.
A lot of these type of boats, even large ones, you wouldn't even need reverse, just use a paddle to turn it around.Even some of the larger ones like sallie hyde.
Remember the first thing a boat does when it hits the water is shrink. It was a pretty good size boat in your garage, now it looks too small out on a large body of water.
I guess I am suggesting that you will have a lot of exspense into such a small boat, almost a rowboat.

[RonW]

Positively get a 2 cylinder, you do not want a one cylinder, they have way too much vibration and noise.
A couple years ago I checked into a 10 horse westerburke with forward and reverse gear box, and it was $4,500 a absurd and way overflated price in my opinion. The salesman told me not to buy it, but go with the 12 horse instead which is a 2 cylinder, that the noise and vibration of the one cylinder was ridiculous.
I would suggest to build a much bigger boat, the cost of the boat itself isn't all that great, but the cost of a engine, shaft, prop and all else plus the trailer is what drives the total price tag way up. So why not have a bigger boat that is more comfortable and you can go more places.
A lot of these old designs like the Atkin's with a little engine turning a prop are neat, but the cost of propulsion almost makes them too costly to build.You may also look around at maybe a farm and tractor supply, as well as tool suppliers and find a kohler or briggs engine, even in diesel for 1/3 or less of that price.
A lot of these type of boats, even large ones, you wouldn't even need reverse, just use a paddle to turn it around.Even some of the larger ones like sallie hyde.
Remember the first thing a boat does when it hits the water is shrink. It was a pretty good size boat in your garage, now it looks too small out on a large body of water.
I guess I am suggesting that you will have a lot of exspense into such a small boat, almost a rowboat.

[RonW]

Positively get a 2 cylinder, you do not want a one cylinder, they have way too much vibration and noise.
A couple years ago I checked into a 10 horse westerburke with forward and reverse gear box, and it was $4,500 a absurd and way overflated price in my opinion. The salesman told me not to buy it, but go with the 12 horse instead which is a 2 cylinder, that the noise and vibration of the one cylinder was ridiculous.
I would suggest to build a much bigger boat, the cost of the boat itself isn't all that great, but the cost of a engine, shaft, prop and all else plus the trailer is what drives the total price tag way up. So why not have a bigger boat that is more comfortable and you can go more places.
A lot of these old designs like the Atkin's with a little engine turning a prop are neat, but the cost of propulsion almost makes them too costly to build.You may also look around at maybe a farm and tractor supply, as well as tool suppliers and find a kohler or briggs engine, even in diesel for 1/3 or less of that price.
A lot of these type of boats, even large ones, you wouldn't even need reverse, just use a paddle to turn it around.Even some of the larger ones like sallie hyde.
Remember the first thing a boat does when it hits the water is shrink. It was a pretty good size boat in your garage, now it looks too small out on a large body of water.
I guess I am suggesting that you will have a lot of exspense into such a small boat, almost a rowboat.

[John A. Campbell]

Ron, I appreciate your comments BUT I am really in love (lust) with the Victor Slocum. I know it's small but I intend to use it only for nice, quiet cruises around fresh water lakes in Texas.....shoreline exploration and just "easy, relaxed boating". I don't like outboards and I'm not really sure that electric power is the answer but am considering it. I can even feel myself moving toward abandoning the project altogether and just continue to build boat models as I have done as a hobby for about 47 years. I could build a helluva lot of fine models for what one V.S. would cost and that may well be how this turns out but in any case, I appreciate everyone's input.

[John A. Campbell]

Ron, I appreciate your comments BUT I am really in love (lust) with the Victor Slocum. I know it's small but I intend to use it only for nice, quiet cruises around fresh water lakes in Texas.....shoreline exploration and just "easy, relaxed boating". I don't like outboards and I'm not really sure that electric power is the answer but am considering it. I can even feel myself moving toward abandoning the project altogether and just continue to build boat models as I have done as a hobby for about 47 years. I could build a helluva lot of fine models for what one V.S. would cost and that may well be how this turns out but in any case, I appreciate everyone's input.

[John A. Campbell]

Ron, I appreciate your comments BUT I am really in love (lust) with the Victor Slocum. I know it's small but I intend to use it only for nice, quiet cruises around fresh water lakes in Texas.....shoreline exploration and just "easy, relaxed boating". I don't like outboards and I'm not really sure that electric power is the answer but am considering it. I can even feel myself moving toward abandoning the project altogether and just continue to build boat models as I have done as a hobby for about 47 years. I could build a helluva lot of fine models for what one V.S. would cost and that may well be how this turns out but in any case, I appreciate everyone's input.

[gdallas]

Theres a small petrol engine made by Dolphin in England.
Dolphin

That's your man

[gdallas]

Theres a small petrol engine made by Dolphin in England.
Dolphin

That's your man

[gdallas]

Theres a small petrol engine made by Dolphin in England.
Dolphin

That's your man

[RonW]

John. Solid and truthfull reply, but don't give up so quickly.Obviously the cost of the engine as well as the other stuff to go with it kinda hurts a little. From what I see in your post, you would be much happier with electric for exsploring shorlines in fresh water lakes. You will see a lot more by sneaking up on wildlife in a electric then with a diesel anyhow.
You just got to learn how to cheat a little on the exspense of the propulsion system.
First off check out minn kota trolling motors, the cheapest ones will be the transom mount ones.
Look at the high thrust models around 100 lbs thrust which will be close to 1 &1/2 horse, enough to go about 6 mph.These will be 36 volts, you might even find a bigger thrust model at 48 volts.
http://www.minnkotamotors.com/index_flash.asp

Then check out a deal from glen-l where you cut the shaft of the motor and take the head and mount it anywhere you want in the boat for easy control. You can slide the trolling motor down through the center of the transdom through a hole and eliminate the shaft coming through the boat as well as that cost.
http://www.glen-l.com/designs/special/etm.html

Or you could use the bottom half of a old outboard and a golf cart motor and make a electric unit.
http://www.glen-l.com/designs/specia...tricdrive.html

You could put one of these systems together for maybe $1,500. At 36 volt you can set 6 trojan
t-105
under the center seat, which will weigh about 360 lbs. You would have enough juice to run the boat on high all day long, and maybe more particularly with the trolling motor set up. Use a cheap golf cart battery recharger for the 36 volt system.
You would eliminate about 2/3 rds of the keel on the boat and could easily find a cheap trailer to put it on.
I think it wil be a lot neater boat to exsplore with, quiet, and cheap. Almost no fuel cost, it may coat you a dollar to recharge the batteries at home off a 110 outlet. I would guess the whole project, everything,boat, trailer and electric drive for maybe less then $4,000.
I though seiously about using the trolling motor with the head being moved on a alpha swampscott dory about 20 feet long and using it for a very sneaky hunting boat.Just cut the head off and mount the motor down through the center of that big sloped tombstone transom.

[RonW]

John. Solid and truthfull reply, but don't give up so quickly.Obviously the cost of the engine as well as the other stuff to go with it kinda hurts a little. From what I see in your post, you would be much happier with electric for exsploring shorlines in fresh water lakes. You will see a lot more by sneaking up on wildlife in a electric then with a diesel anyhow.
You just got to learn how to cheat a little on the exspense of the propulsion system.
First off check out minn kota trolling motors, the cheapest ones will be the transom mount ones.
Look at the high thrust models around 100 lbs thrust which will be close to 1 &1/2 horse, enough to go about 6 mph.These will be 36 volts, you might even find a bigger thrust model at 48 volts.
http://www.minnkotamotors.com/index_flash.asp

Then check out a deal from glen-l where you cut the shaft of the motor and take the head and mount it anywhere you want in the boat for easy control. You can slide the trolling motor down through the center of the transdom through a hole and eliminate the shaft coming through the boat as well as that cost.
http://www.glen-l.com/designs/special/etm.html

Or you could use the bottom half of a old outboard and a golf cart motor and make a electric unit.
http://www.glen-l.com/designs/specia...tricdrive.html

You could put one of these systems together for maybe $1,500. At 36 volt you can set 6 trojan
t-105
under the center seat, which will weigh about 360 lbs. You would have enough juice to run the boat on high all day long, and maybe more particularly with the trolling motor set up. Use a cheap golf cart battery recharger for the 36 volt system.
You would eliminate about 2/3 rds of the keel on the boat and could easily find a cheap trailer to put it on.
I think it wil be a lot neater boat to exsplore with, quiet, and cheap. Almost no fuel cost, it may coat you a dollar to recharge the batteries at home off a 110 outlet. I would guess the whole project, everything,boat, trailer and electric drive for maybe less then $4,000.
I though seiously about using the trolling motor with the head being moved on a alpha swampscott dory about 20 feet long and using it for a very sneaky hunting boat.Just cut the head off and mount the motor down through the center of that big sloped tombstone transom.

[RonW]

John. Solid and truthfull reply, but don't give up so quickly.Obviously the cost of the engine as well as the other stuff to go with it kinda hurts a little. From what I see in your post, you would be much happier with electric for exsploring shorlines in fresh water lakes. You will see a lot more by sneaking up on wildlife in a electric then with a diesel anyhow.
You just got to learn how to cheat a little on the exspense of the propulsion system.
First off check out minn kota trolling motors, the cheapest ones will be the transom mount ones.
Look at the high thrust models around 100 lbs thrust which will be close to 1 &1/2 horse, enough to go about 6 mph.These will be 36 volts, you might even find a bigger thrust model at 48 volts.
http://www.minnkotamotors.com/index_flash.asp

Then check out a deal from glen-l where you cut the shaft of the motor and take the head and mount it anywhere you want in the boat for easy control. You can slide the trolling motor down through the center of the transdom through a hole and eliminate the shaft coming through the boat as well as that cost.
http://www.glen-l.com/designs/special/etm.html

Or you could use the bottom half of a old outboard and a golf cart motor and make a electric unit.
http://www.glen-l.com/designs/specia...tricdrive.html

You could put one of these systems together for maybe $1,500. At 36 volt you can set 6 trojan
t-105
under the center seat, which will weigh about 360 lbs. You would have enough juice to run the boat on high all day long, and maybe more particularly with the trolling motor set up. Use a cheap golf cart battery recharger for the 36 volt system.
You would eliminate about 2/3 rds of the keel on the boat and could easily find a cheap trailer to put it on.
I think it wil be a lot neater boat to exsplore with, quiet, and cheap. Almost no fuel cost, it may coat you a dollar to recharge the batteries at home off a 110 outlet. I would guess the whole project, everything,boat, trailer and electric drive for maybe less then $4,000.
I though seiously about using the trolling motor with the head being moved on a alpha swampscott dory about 20 feet long and using it for a very sneaky hunting boat.Just cut the head off and mount the motor down through the center of that big sloped tombstone transom.

[RonW]

Or you could mount the trolling motor underneath the boat in the same location of the prop, and leave all the keel, and then eliminate the rudder.

[RonW]

Or you could mount the trolling motor underneath the boat in the same location of the prop, and leave all the keel, and then eliminate the rudder.

[RonW]

Or you could mount the trolling motor underneath the boat in the same location of the prop, and leave all the keel, and then eliminate the rudder.

[chergui]

Ron, I have a Farymann 18W single cylinder and while the engine vibrates of course, it has some serious foam pads on the mounts. There is practically no vibration even on the wooden mount the engine sits on. Noise however is something else, it is loud as hell. But it's a nice sounding engine.

[chergui]

Ron, I have a Farymann 18W single cylinder and while the engine vibrates of course, it has some serious foam pads on the mounts. There is practically no vibration even on the wooden mount the engine sits on. Noise however is something else, it is loud as hell. But it's a nice sounding engine.

[chergui]

Ron, I have a Farymann 18W single cylinder and while the engine vibrates of course, it has some serious foam pads on the mounts. There is practically no vibration even on the wooden mount the engine sits on. Noise however is something else, it is loud as hell. But it's a nice sounding engine.

[Dave Davis]

If you're looking for a one-lunger without vibration, Bukh DV-10. North Jersey Marine deals with them on the east coast. I've had two, both very reliable and economical to operate (pint/hr pushing a 10k lb sailboat). No vibration due to the weight and absurdly heavy flywheel. They run these little buggers in lifeboats, doesn't get any harder use than that. Can start w/o electrics via hand crank.

[Dave Davis]

If you're looking for a one-lunger without vibration, Bukh DV-10. North Jersey Marine deals with them on the east coast. I've had two, both very reliable and economical to operate (pint/hr pushing a 10k lb sailboat). No vibration due to the weight and absurdly heavy flywheel. They run these little buggers in lifeboats, doesn't get any harder use than that. Can start w/o electrics via hand crank.

[Dave Davis]

If you're looking for a one-lunger without vibration, Bukh DV-10. North Jersey Marine deals with them on the east coast. I've had two, both very reliable and economical to operate (pint/hr pushing a 10k lb sailboat). No vibration due to the weight and absurdly heavy flywheel. They run these little buggers in lifeboats, doesn't get any harder use than that. Can start w/o electrics via hand crank.

[John A. Campbell]

I'm not too interested in going with electric power.....I've thought it through and it's got advantages to be sure but I don't especially like the weight of batteries and want something a little more "in keeping" with the design of the boat. Dave, I'll check on the Bukh DV-10 and see about the weight, cost, etc.

You guys will most likely think I've gone over the "deep end" but I ordered and received quotes for the Blaxland 3 1/2 hp (700 rpm) and 7 hp (900 rpm) 2-stroke marine engines from Brett Jacobs, owner of Blaxland Chapman Marine Co. in Australia. They are VERY simple marine engines, 149 lbs. for the 1-cyl and around 180 for the 2-cyl. They are $3323 U.S. for the 1-cyl. and $4062 U.S. for the 2-cyl., both with clutch for forward and neutral......you flip the magneto at a low idle with clutch disengaged to go to reverse and back. Five year warranty on the engine and 1 year on the clutch. Start the engine with a strap around the flywheel. The 3 1/2 hp engine looks about right for the V.S. and is only 18 inches long, the 7 hp is 24". The price is considerably less than the Dolphin but of course it's a little more "primitive". I'm not sure what the freight charge and import duties/fees would be but I'll check on that, too. Either of these may not be very practical but I really like the size and weight of them and I think they are definitely in keeping with the overall design of the "Victor Slocum". Would like to have your comments, please. Am not gonna give up on the "V.S." just yet.....just gotta find the RIGHT ENGINE

[John A. Campbell]

I'm not too interested in going with electric power.....I've thought it through and it's got advantages to be sure but I don't especially like the weight of batteries and want something a little more "in keeping" with the design of the boat. Dave, I'll check on the Bukh DV-10 and see about the weight, cost, etc.

You guys will most likely think I've gone over the "deep end" but I ordered and received quotes for the Blaxland 3 1/2 hp (700 rpm) and 7 hp (900 rpm) 2-stroke marine engines from Brett Jacobs, owner of Blaxland Chapman Marine Co. in Australia. They are VERY simple marine engines, 149 lbs. for the 1-cyl and around 180 for the 2-cyl. They are $3323 U.S. for the 1-cyl. and $4062 U.S. for the 2-cyl., both with clutch for forward and neutral......you flip the magneto at a low idle with clutch disengaged to go to reverse and back. Five year warranty on the engine and 1 year on the clutch. Start the engine with a strap around the flywheel. The 3 1/2 hp engine looks about right for the V.S. and is only 18 inches long, the 7 hp is 24". The price is considerably less than the Dolphin but of course it's a little more "primitive". I'm not sure what the freight charge and import duties/fees would be but I'll check on that, too. Either of these may not be very practical but I really like the size and weight of them and I think they are definitely in keeping with the overall design of the "Victor Slocum". Would like to have your comments, please. Am not gonna give up on the "V.S." just yet.....just gotta find the RIGHT ENGINE

[John A. Campbell]

I'm not too interested in going with electric power.....I've thought it through and it's got advantages to be sure but I don't especially like the weight of batteries and want something a little more "in keeping" with the design of the boat. Dave, I'll check on the Bukh DV-10 and see about the weight, cost, etc.

You guys will most likely think I've gone over the "deep end" but I ordered and received quotes for the Blaxland 3 1/2 hp (700 rpm) and 7 hp (900 rpm) 2-stroke marine engines from Brett Jacobs, owner of Blaxland Chapman Marine Co. in Australia. They are VERY simple marine engines, 149 lbs. for the 1-cyl and around 180 for the 2-cyl. They are $3323 U.S. for the 1-cyl. and $4062 U.S. for the 2-cyl., both with clutch for forward and neutral......you flip the magneto at a low idle with clutch disengaged to go to reverse and back. Five year warranty on the engine and 1 year on the clutch. Start the engine with a strap around the flywheel. The 3 1/2 hp engine looks about right for the V.S. and is only 18 inches long, the 7 hp is 24". The price is considerably less than the Dolphin but of course it's a little more "primitive". I'm not sure what the freight charge and import duties/fees would be but I'll check on that, too. Either of these may not be very practical but I really like the size and weight of them and I think they are definitely in keeping with the overall design of the "Victor Slocum". Would like to have your comments, please. Am not gonna give up on the "V.S." just yet.....just gotta find the RIGHT ENGINE

[Lion]

John

I have an original 31/2 hp Blaxland-Chapman single and they are just fine as a period motor. You have to know how to use them but they are simple and reliable and they sound great.

However they do run a pretty oily 2 stoke mix of 25/1 (I actually run mine a bit more like 32/1 after an Old Timer recommended it - certainly stops any tendency to oil the plug).

The price sounds OK and used originals in good condition certaily get good a price.

If I was buying new I would go for a 4 stroke and you can still obtain (I believe) a Simplex 7hp single from Hardman & Hall of Seven Hills, Sydney. Pricey, heavy lump but a wonderful motor - a local legend. Google Simplex Marine Motors and you should find a bit of info.

Regards

Lion

[Lion]

John

I have an original 31/2 hp Blaxland-Chapman single and they are just fine as a period motor. You have to know how to use them but they are simple and reliable and they sound great.

However they do run a pretty oily 2 stoke mix of 25/1 (I actually run mine a bit more like 32/1 after an Old Timer recommended it - certainly stops any tendency to oil the plug).

The price sounds OK and used originals in good condition certaily get good a price.

If I was buying new I would go for a 4 stroke and you can still obtain (I believe) a Simplex 7hp single from Hardman & Hall of Seven Hills, Sydney. Pricey, heavy lump but a wonderful motor - a local legend. Google Simplex Marine Motors and you should find a bit of info.

Regards

Lion

[Lion]

John

I have an original 31/2 hp Blaxland-Chapman single and they are just fine as a period motor. You have to know how to use them but they are simple and reliable and they sound great.

However they do run a pretty oily 2 stoke mix of 25/1 (I actually run mine a bit more like 32/1 after an Old Timer recommended it - certainly stops any tendency to oil the plug).

The price sounds OK and used originals in good condition certaily get good a price.

If I was buying new I would go for a 4 stroke and you can still obtain (I believe) a Simplex 7hp single from Hardman & Hall of Seven Hills, Sydney. Pricey, heavy lump but a wonderful motor - a local legend. Google Simplex Marine Motors and you should find a bit of info.

Regards

Lion

[AHall]

I would go with the one cylinder Yanmar.
I had one in a John Gardner designed Sea-bright skiff, it was actually a 1GM-7 the precurser to the 1GM-10. My engine made 6.5hp. It vibrated, but not too bad. It ran like a top for the 18 years we had the boat.

I think you will find that the two cylinder engines you are looking at make too much power for that boat. The one cylinder Yanmar pushed my 19' boat beyond hull speed. If you put 12.5 hp in a 15 footer, you would probably run at 25% power. This is not good for a diesel.

I also think that Yanmar checking out your installation is a great idea. They want your engine to last just as you will (after dropping four grand on it!)

Go Yanmar! you won't regret it.

Andy

[AHall]

I would go with the one cylinder Yanmar.
I had one in a John Gardner designed Sea-bright skiff, it was actually a 1GM-7 the precurser to the 1GM-10. My engine made 6.5hp. It vibrated, but not too bad. It ran like a top for the 18 years we had the boat.

I think you will find that the two cylinder engines you are looking at make too much power for that boat. The one cylinder Yanmar pushed my 19' boat beyond hull speed. If you put 12.5 hp in a 15 footer, you would probably run at 25% power. This is not good for a diesel.

I also think that Yanmar checking out your installation is a great idea. They want your engine to last just as you will (after dropping four grand on it!)

Go Yanmar! you won't regret it.

Andy

[AHall]

I would go with the one cylinder Yanmar.
I had one in a John Gardner designed Sea-bright skiff, it was actually a 1GM-7 the precurser to the 1GM-10. My engine made 6.5hp. It vibrated, but not too bad. It ran like a top for the 18 years we had the boat.

I think you will find that the two cylinder engines you are looking at make too much power for that boat. The one cylinder Yanmar pushed my 19' boat beyond hull speed. If you put 12.5 hp in a 15 footer, you would probably run at 25% power. This is not good for a diesel.

I also think that Yanmar checking out your installation is a great idea. They want your engine to last just as you will (after dropping four grand on it!)

Go Yanmar! you won't regret it.

Andy

[StevenBauer]

Have you looked at a real antique make and break engine? There are clubs that worship those things.
I've heard of events they hold at maritime museums and such.

Steven

[StevenBauer]

Have you looked at a real antique make and break engine? There are clubs that worship those things.
I've heard of events they hold at maritime museums and such.

Steven

[StevenBauer]

Have you looked at a real antique make and break engine? There are clubs that worship those things.
I've heard of events they hold at maritime museums and such.

Steven

[StevenBauer]

Here's your Palmer "Baby Huskie":



From www.oldmarineengine.com

Check out the Classifieds: one guy is selling a "Matched pair of Kermath Sea Queens with reduction gears. Need restored. $1500pr"

And another guy has a Palmer. [img]smile.gif[/img]

Type "antique marine engines" or "old marine engines" into google. You might just get lucky and find the perfect old engine.

Steven

[StevenBauer]

Here's your Palmer "Baby Huskie":



From www.oldmarineengine.com

Check out the Classifieds: one guy is selling a "Matched pair of Kermath Sea Queens with reduction gears. Need restored. $1500pr"

And another guy has a Palmer. [img]smile.gif[/img]

Type "antique marine engines" or "old marine engines" into google. You might just get lucky and find the perfect old engine.

Steven