Small marine diesel recommendations

[John A. Campbell]

Helvit, it is somewhat comforting to know you are also going through this "wringing out" process.......it can be somewhat tortureous but fun, too.

I have done lots of research the last few weeks on possible engine applications for the "Victor Slocum". One of them was the use of an air-cooled engine that was normally used to power a generator. I found that an engine of this type has no internal balancing normally found on general purpose engines and depends on the generator's armature for the balancing effect so you should steer away from that. This engine was the Honda GX360.....the General Purpose GX360 would have been okay but is no longer available....there is a GX360 available at Plano Power Products in Plano, Texas but it is the generator version so stay away from it or any other engine of 12 hp or more that is specifically intended to drive a generator.

Then I looked at Briggs-Stratton's 5.5 hp tiller engine which has an auxillary PTO shaft that turns in opposite rotation to the main crankshaft(are you listening, John Hastie?). This looked like a possible forward/neutral/reverse application by using a double pulley idler which moved from side to side engaging (tightening) either of the two drive pulleys......BUT I found that the aux. PTO (which worked off the camshaft) was only rated at 1/2 hp indicating, I suppose, that it wouldn't be satisfactory for reverse.

Then I talked with Newage Transmission Co. about using their PRM-80 marine gearbox ($870) coupled to a Honda 8 hp air-cooled engine. The Honda idles at 1300 RPM....Newage (Jamie Pratt) said this was too high and would most likely invite "cone lockup" and they "would not accept application for such an arrangement for warranty".

Basically I have been scared off of using an air-cooled engine for the "V.S.".......too many comments about danger of gasoline fire, the difficulty of adapting some sort of forward/neutral/reverse arrangement, "the engine will run too hot", etc. etc. I ran down many alleys with this and always, with no exceptions, I found reasons not to do it so I have......up to now, at least......been thinking that the 1-cylinder water-cooled marine diesel or the Blaxland Pup (although it is gasoline) is probably the best way to go. But now I'm hearing all this about 1-cylinder marine diesel vibration and have been told that a 2-cylinder marine diesel is much smoother. Then I've learned that a diesel needs to work hard and at its rated output and the "Victor Slocum" won't present enough load to keep a 2-cylinder happy soooooooo what the hell is a man gonna do??!! I think, before I lay my money down for any marine engine, I'm gonna have to see and hear her run first.

To sum it up, the lack of a nice NEW low-powered (around 5- 8 hp) smooth running inboard gasoline marine engine with flame arrestor, gearbox, etc. and at a "reasonable price" is a real bottleneck as I see it but one way or the other, I will build the "Victor Slocum". I "sorta" like Robb White's approach to using the 18 hp Kubota engine but that engine is too much for the "V.S." if the engine has to be kept operating at or near its peak output. I'm sure a smaller diesel like that is available but I really would have to see Robb's application for the reverse feature before I'd use it......that "chirp" coming out of the engine box when you depress the rear of the engine 3/16"....would need to know a little more about the whole setup......I think I'll try to get in touch with Robb on this.

[John A. Campbell]

Helvit, it is somewhat comforting to know you are also going through this "wringing out" process.......it can be somewhat tortureous but fun, too.

I have done lots of research the last few weeks on possible engine applications for the "Victor Slocum". One of them was the use of an air-cooled engine that was normally used to power a generator. I found that an engine of this type has no internal balancing normally found on general purpose engines and depends on the generator's armature for the balancing effect so you should steer away from that. This engine was the Honda GX360.....the General Purpose GX360 would have been okay but is no longer available....there is a GX360 available at Plano Power Products in Plano, Texas but it is the generator version so stay away from it or any other engine of 12 hp or more that is specifically intended to drive a generator.

Then I looked at Briggs-Stratton's 5.5 hp tiller engine which has an auxillary PTO shaft that turns in opposite rotation to the main crankshaft(are you listening, John Hastie?). This looked like a possible forward/neutral/reverse application by using a double pulley idler which moved from side to side engaging (tightening) either of the two drive pulleys......BUT I found that the aux. PTO (which worked off the camshaft) was only rated at 1/2 hp indicating, I suppose, that it wouldn't be satisfactory for reverse.

Then I talked with Newage Transmission Co. about using their PRM-80 marine gearbox ($870) coupled to a Honda 8 hp air-cooled engine. The Honda idles at 1300 RPM....Newage (Jamie Pratt) said this was too high and would most likely invite "cone lockup" and they "would not accept application for such an arrangement for warranty".

Basically I have been scared off of using an air-cooled engine for the "V.S.".......too many comments about danger of gasoline fire, the difficulty of adapting some sort of forward/neutral/reverse arrangement, "the engine will run too hot", etc. etc. I ran down many alleys with this and always, with no exceptions, I found reasons not to do it so I have......up to now, at least......been thinking that the 1-cylinder water-cooled marine diesel or the Blaxland Pup (although it is gasoline) is probably the best way to go. But now I'm hearing all this about 1-cylinder marine diesel vibration and have been told that a 2-cylinder marine diesel is much smoother. Then I've learned that a diesel needs to work hard and at its rated output and the "Victor Slocum" won't present enough load to keep a 2-cylinder happy soooooooo what the hell is a man gonna do??!! I think, before I lay my money down for any marine engine, I'm gonna have to see and hear her run first.

To sum it up, the lack of a nice NEW low-powered (around 5- 8 hp) smooth running inboard gasoline marine engine with flame arrestor, gearbox, etc. and at a "reasonable price" is a real bottleneck as I see it but one way or the other, I will build the "Victor Slocum". I "sorta" like Robb White's approach to using the 18 hp Kubota engine but that engine is too much for the "V.S." if the engine has to be kept operating at or near its peak output. I'm sure a smaller diesel like that is available but I really would have to see Robb's application for the reverse feature before I'd use it......that "chirp" coming out of the engine box when you depress the rear of the engine 3/16"....would need to know a little more about the whole setup......I think I'll try to get in touch with Robb on this.

[Dave Davis]

I thought I'd had a different sign-in! Thinwatersailor was/is my former (present?) moniker but there was a long hiatus without access...sorry for having more than one name!

What I said from 2001 still goes. Though we loved that little Bukh, our current 4hp 2 stroke Yamaha is the best, and when it needs work it goes to the shop, not vice versa.

But if you must diesel, then Bukh.

[Dave Davis]

I thought I'd had a different sign-in! Thinwatersailor was/is my former (present?) moniker but there was a long hiatus without access...sorry for having more than one name!

What I said from 2001 still goes. Though we loved that little Bukh, our current 4hp 2 stroke Yamaha is the best, and when it needs work it goes to the shop, not vice versa.

But if you must diesel, then Bukh.

[Dave Davis]

I thought I'd had a different sign-in! Thinwatersailor was/is my former (present?) moniker but there was a long hiatus without access...sorry for having more than one name!

What I said from 2001 still goes. Though we loved that little Bukh, our current 4hp 2 stroke Yamaha is the best, and when it needs work it goes to the shop, not vice versa.

But if you must diesel, then Bukh.

[John A. Campbell]

Dave, I assume the Yamaha is an outboard?.....I've never heard that Yamaha made a small inboard....correct?

I really wish there was some way to accurately compare the vibration levels of all these little 1-cylinder marine diesels. The noise levels can be compared, I suppose, by obtaining the dbA levels measured at a specific distance from the engines and all running at the same RPM but is there any standard way to measure smoothness in an engines running characteristics? Bukh claims, in their brochure, that theirs is "free from vibration, noise, bad fumes, etc." but what's the MEASURE? Also, I noticed that Bukh DV7 and Farymann 18W are exactly the same overall dimensions including bore and stroke.....right down to the millimeter.....including price.....it almost looks like they are the same engine except the Bukh is red and the Farymann is grey (the earlier ones were yellow). Also, Bob Baines with North Jersey Marine told me that Bukh had bought a substantial interest in Farymann yet both engines were apparently on the market BEFORE the purchase so I wonder how these engines came to be identical. And I wonder how they compare in noise levels and vibration? Dave, do you have any info on this?

[John A. Campbell]

Dave, I assume the Yamaha is an outboard?.....I've never heard that Yamaha made a small inboard....correct?

I really wish there was some way to accurately compare the vibration levels of all these little 1-cylinder marine diesels. The noise levels can be compared, I suppose, by obtaining the dbA levels measured at a specific distance from the engines and all running at the same RPM but is there any standard way to measure smoothness in an engines running characteristics? Bukh claims, in their brochure, that theirs is "free from vibration, noise, bad fumes, etc." but what's the MEASURE? Also, I noticed that Bukh DV7 and Farymann 18W are exactly the same overall dimensions including bore and stroke.....right down to the millimeter.....including price.....it almost looks like they are the same engine except the Bukh is red and the Farymann is grey (the earlier ones were yellow). Also, Bob Baines with North Jersey Marine told me that Bukh had bought a substantial interest in Farymann yet both engines were apparently on the market BEFORE the purchase so I wonder how these engines came to be identical. And I wonder how they compare in noise levels and vibration? Dave, do you have any info on this?

[John A. Campbell]

Dave, I assume the Yamaha is an outboard?.....I've never heard that Yamaha made a small inboard....correct?

I really wish there was some way to accurately compare the vibration levels of all these little 1-cylinder marine diesels. The noise levels can be compared, I suppose, by obtaining the dbA levels measured at a specific distance from the engines and all running at the same RPM but is there any standard way to measure smoothness in an engines running characteristics? Bukh claims, in their brochure, that theirs is "free from vibration, noise, bad fumes, etc." but what's the MEASURE? Also, I noticed that Bukh DV7 and Farymann 18W are exactly the same overall dimensions including bore and stroke.....right down to the millimeter.....including price.....it almost looks like they are the same engine except the Bukh is red and the Farymann is grey (the earlier ones were yellow). Also, Bob Baines with North Jersey Marine told me that Bukh had bought a substantial interest in Farymann yet both engines were apparently on the market BEFORE the purchase so I wonder how these engines came to be identical. And I wonder how they compare in noise levels and vibration? Dave, do you have any info on this?

[dsfixit]

two are better then one wat aver you get it conplet with trans and gages and alow for a shift damper it will help with vabion

[dsfixit]

two are better then one wat aver you get it conplet with trans and gages and alow for a shift damper it will help with vabion

[dsfixit]

two are better then one wat aver you get it conplet with trans and gages and alow for a shift damper it will help with vabion

[helvit]

John, this might be a decent time to try to get some of the discussion here clarified.

One very sticky point is the question of whether the Yanmar 2YM15 would be underwhelmed and thereby worn out by this little boat.

I'm on square one of this small diesel stuff... reading Calder, Glen-L, Yanmar and Westerbeke online "installation" material and so on, with exactly zero in the critical experience department.

What are we measuring, what do we want to measure, and why can't we gear and prop this engine to run this boat well?

The "power" performance curve for the 2YM15 shows maximum output at crankshaft, max power at prop shaft, and the propeller power curve all converging at about 14hp at 3600 rpm. Continuous rating output at the crankshaft is 12.8hp at 3489 rpm.

Running at 75% of WOT puts you at 2700 rpm, where you have about 9 hp at the crankshaft. Atkin's Baby Husky developed "6 hp at 2500 RPM".

I think we can work with that, but we don't know how yet.



[edit: besides, I'm seeing some not too terrible prices on this engine, at least compared with a commercially marinized kubota gasoline engine]

[ 03-16-2006, 10:43 PM: Message edited by: helvit ]

[helvit]

John, this might be a decent time to try to get some of the discussion here clarified.

One very sticky point is the question of whether the Yanmar 2YM15 would be underwhelmed and thereby worn out by this little boat.

I'm on square one of this small diesel stuff... reading Calder, Glen-L, Yanmar and Westerbeke online "installation" material and so on, with exactly zero in the critical experience department.

What are we measuring, what do we want to measure, and why can't we gear and prop this engine to run this boat well?

The "power" performance curve for the 2YM15 shows maximum output at crankshaft, max power at prop shaft, and the propeller power curve all converging at about 14hp at 3600 rpm. Continuous rating output at the crankshaft is 12.8hp at 3489 rpm.

Running at 75% of WOT puts you at 2700 rpm, where you have about 9 hp at the crankshaft. Atkin's Baby Husky developed "6 hp at 2500 RPM".

I think we can work with that, but we don't know how yet.



[edit: besides, I'm seeing some not too terrible prices on this engine, at least compared with a commercially marinized kubota gasoline engine]

[ 03-16-2006, 10:43 PM: Message edited by: helvit ]

[helvit]

John, this might be a decent time to try to get some of the discussion here clarified.

One very sticky point is the question of whether the Yanmar 2YM15 would be underwhelmed and thereby worn out by this little boat.

I'm on square one of this small diesel stuff... reading Calder, Glen-L, Yanmar and Westerbeke online "installation" material and so on, with exactly zero in the critical experience department.

What are we measuring, what do we want to measure, and why can't we gear and prop this engine to run this boat well?

The "power" performance curve for the 2YM15 shows maximum output at crankshaft, max power at prop shaft, and the propeller power curve all converging at about 14hp at 3600 rpm. Continuous rating output at the crankshaft is 12.8hp at 3489 rpm.

Running at 75% of WOT puts you at 2700 rpm, where you have about 9 hp at the crankshaft. Atkin's Baby Husky developed "6 hp at 2500 RPM".

I think we can work with that, but we don't know how yet.



[edit: besides, I'm seeing some not too terrible prices on this engine, at least compared with a commercially marinized kubota gasoline engine]

[ 03-16-2006, 10:43 PM: Message edited by: helvit ]

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Had a long discussion with my local diesel mechanic the other day, as he was repairing my Bukh DV20 for the third time ( a bent camshaft this time, dont even ask what the replacement cost).
I have just bought another boat and it has a Yanmar 2GM20, which I've had before. We were discussing replacing it with a marinised Kubota.
His opinion, which I value, is that Yanmar is the only diesel worth having in a sailboat, as the motor is generally used infrequently and rarely flat out. Yanmar seem to last with this sort of treatment, but the others dont.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Had a long discussion with my local diesel mechanic the other day, as he was repairing my Bukh DV20 for the third time ( a bent camshaft this time, dont even ask what the replacement cost).
I have just bought another boat and it has a Yanmar 2GM20, which I've had before. We were discussing replacing it with a marinised Kubota.
His opinion, which I value, is that Yanmar is the only diesel worth having in a sailboat, as the motor is generally used infrequently and rarely flat out. Yanmar seem to last with this sort of treatment, but the others dont.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Had a long discussion with my local diesel mechanic the other day, as he was repairing my Bukh DV20 for the third time ( a bent camshaft this time, dont even ask what the replacement cost).
I have just bought another boat and it has a Yanmar 2GM20, which I've had before. We were discussing replacing it with a marinised Kubota.
His opinion, which I value, is that Yanmar is the only diesel worth having in a sailboat, as the motor is generally used infrequently and rarely flat out. Yanmar seem to last with this sort of treatment, but the others dont.

[martin schulz]

Originally posted by Paul Fitzgerald:
His opinion, which I value, is that Yanmar is the only diesel worth having in a sailboat, as the motor is generally used infrequently and rarely flat out. Yanmar seem to last with this sort of treatment, but the others dont.

True!

[martin schulz]

Originally posted by Paul Fitzgerald:
His opinion, which I value, is that Yanmar is the only diesel worth having in a sailboat, as the motor is generally used infrequently and rarely flat out. Yanmar seem to last with this sort of treatment, but the others dont.

True!

[martin schulz]

Originally posted by Paul Fitzgerald:
His opinion, which I value, is that Yanmar is the only diesel worth having in a sailboat, as the motor is generally used infrequently and rarely flat out. Yanmar seem to last with this sort of treatment, but the others dont.

True!

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Yes, but they can eat impellers and alternator drive belts, and you need to replace the anode!

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Yes, but they can eat impellers and alternator drive belts, and you need to replace the anode!

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Yes, but they can eat impellers and alternator drive belts, and you need to replace the anode!

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Impellers, belts and anodes are the maintenance issues for all small diesels, not just yanmar.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Impellers, belts and anodes are the maintenance issues for all small diesels, not just yanmar.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

Impellers, belts and anodes are the maintenance issues for all small diesels, not just yanmar.

[John A. Campbell]

Helvit, when I began planning this project, my first contact was with Hansen Marine Engineering in Marblehead, MA....I was interested in the Westerbeke 11A-ONE 1-cylinder diesel and found that the smallest they make is the 12C-TWO 2-cylinder. Hansen quoted the 12C-TWO at $5562 and as an addendum to their proposal, quoted a 3-blade, 10" diameter, 8" pitch prop whereas Atkin specified a 2-blade, 10" diameter, 6" pitch prop for the Victor Slocum. In further discussion, it became somewhat apparent that the prop was selected to offer more load to the engine which is in keeping with comments on this thread about the advisability of keeping a diesel engine "well loaded". I don't know how to determine if this adequate and so I have to assume that Hansen Marine is competent in this area but it sure would be nice to have a professional second opinion. If anyone has any idea on this, please let me know. It would seem that hull design and displacement would play a large part in this calculation and I did, in fact, send the V.S. construction drawing to them for their evaluation. I know for sure that I am not at all interested in paying $5000+ for ANY engine that's going to vibrate to the extent that motor mounts are going to have to be replaced in 5 years, that impellers and belts are going to have to be periodically replaced, etc. etc. Loose or worn motor mounts tells me that the immediate result of that is transmission damage from coupling faces coming out of alignment. I have been laboring under the belief that marine engines are the most reliable of any powerplant.....after hearing a few of these comments on this thread, I'm not so sure. The Blaxland Pup is starting to look better all the time and even electric power is taking on a new look except I can't even imagine how many, what size, and how much weight of batteries it would take to run the V.S. at around 8 mph for 10 miles............anybody want to take a shot at that one?........again, thanks loads for everyone's inputs.

[John A. Campbell]

Helvit, when I began planning this project, my first contact was with Hansen Marine Engineering in Marblehead, MA....I was interested in the Westerbeke 11A-ONE 1-cylinder diesel and found that the smallest they make is the 12C-TWO 2-cylinder. Hansen quoted the 12C-TWO at $5562 and as an addendum to their proposal, quoted a 3-blade, 10" diameter, 8" pitch prop whereas Atkin specified a 2-blade, 10" diameter, 6" pitch prop for the Victor Slocum. In further discussion, it became somewhat apparent that the prop was selected to offer more load to the engine which is in keeping with comments on this thread about the advisability of keeping a diesel engine "well loaded". I don't know how to determine if this adequate and so I have to assume that Hansen Marine is competent in this area but it sure would be nice to have a professional second opinion. If anyone has any idea on this, please let me know. It would seem that hull design and displacement would play a large part in this calculation and I did, in fact, send the V.S. construction drawing to them for their evaluation. I know for sure that I am not at all interested in paying $5000+ for ANY engine that's going to vibrate to the extent that motor mounts are going to have to be replaced in 5 years, that impellers and belts are going to have to be periodically replaced, etc. etc. Loose or worn motor mounts tells me that the immediate result of that is transmission damage from coupling faces coming out of alignment. I have been laboring under the belief that marine engines are the most reliable of any powerplant.....after hearing a few of these comments on this thread, I'm not so sure. The Blaxland Pup is starting to look better all the time and even electric power is taking on a new look except I can't even imagine how many, what size, and how much weight of batteries it would take to run the V.S. at around 8 mph for 10 miles............anybody want to take a shot at that one?........again, thanks loads for everyone's inputs.

[John A. Campbell]

Helvit, when I began planning this project, my first contact was with Hansen Marine Engineering in Marblehead, MA....I was interested in the Westerbeke 11A-ONE 1-cylinder diesel and found that the smallest they make is the 12C-TWO 2-cylinder. Hansen quoted the 12C-TWO at $5562 and as an addendum to their proposal, quoted a 3-blade, 10" diameter, 8" pitch prop whereas Atkin specified a 2-blade, 10" diameter, 6" pitch prop for the Victor Slocum. In further discussion, it became somewhat apparent that the prop was selected to offer more load to the engine which is in keeping with comments on this thread about the advisability of keeping a diesel engine "well loaded". I don't know how to determine if this adequate and so I have to assume that Hansen Marine is competent in this area but it sure would be nice to have a professional second opinion. If anyone has any idea on this, please let me know. It would seem that hull design and displacement would play a large part in this calculation and I did, in fact, send the V.S. construction drawing to them for their evaluation. I know for sure that I am not at all interested in paying $5000+ for ANY engine that's going to vibrate to the extent that motor mounts are going to have to be replaced in 5 years, that impellers and belts are going to have to be periodically replaced, etc. etc. Loose or worn motor mounts tells me that the immediate result of that is transmission damage from coupling faces coming out of alignment. I have been laboring under the belief that marine engines are the most reliable of any powerplant.....after hearing a few of these comments on this thread, I'm not so sure. The Blaxland Pup is starting to look better all the time and even electric power is taking on a new look except I can't even imagine how many, what size, and how much weight of batteries it would take to run the V.S. at around 8 mph for 10 miles............anybody want to take a shot at that one?........again, thanks loads for everyone's inputs.

[John A. Campbell]

And another thing ........I find it damned hard to believe that in a country of 300,000,000 people such as ours, there is not one solitary soul manufacturing a small gasoline water-cooled inboard engine with marine gearbox. Are we so damned hooked on high horsepower that we can't see the need and benefit of such a device for quiet, pleasureable powerboating? My Fellow Forumites, I am thoroughly frustrated over this situation.

[John A. Campbell]

And another thing ........I find it damned hard to believe that in a country of 300,000,000 people such as ours, there is not one solitary soul manufacturing a small gasoline water-cooled inboard engine with marine gearbox. Are we so damned hooked on high horsepower that we can't see the need and benefit of such a device for quiet, pleasureable powerboating? My Fellow Forumites, I am thoroughly frustrated over this situation.

[John A. Campbell]

And another thing ........I find it damned hard to believe that in a country of 300,000,000 people such as ours, there is not one solitary soul manufacturing a small gasoline water-cooled inboard engine with marine gearbox. Are we so damned hooked on high horsepower that we can't see the need and benefit of such a device for quiet, pleasureable powerboating? My Fellow Forumites, I am thoroughly frustrated over this situation.

[Jerry Barnett]

My quick take.

1. Yanmars are the Chevy. And the Timex,,,,straightforward and if you run 'em, they keep on ticking. The all fix it. Reportedly tolerates misuse better than most....but again, everyone can work on it.

2. Farymann...the gem, but old style and "foreign." Good fit. Likes use.

3, Bukh...too Big.

Properly installed,,,,the Farymnn is the best for size, weight and reliability.

Any engine has its fans and detractors....the Farymann seems to me to be the last standing quality, old school small diesel....and the Yanmar would be absolutely fine.

For your use...day cruising, a gas marine inboard 3-5hp would be the answer....there is no such animal out of the box with ready service and readily available parts.

The rub...an inboard diesel is economically illogical in a boat this size....and perversely, a gas inboard costs the same.

There are gas engines out there or engines that when modified /fixed up would be fine....but you need to be a homebrew engine mechanic to make it work out.... many are called, a few are.

I have the same issues in my search for an engine to repower my Drascombe Driver...an 18' sailboat set up for inboard...motorless at the moment. My preferred solution....a used but working Farymann 15w or 18w ....or if it would work ,,,for cost proportionality, a Honda GX200...no reverse (less important to me) but the high pitched whine I hear re safety scares me off the latter.

[Jerry Barnett]

My quick take.

1. Yanmars are the Chevy. And the Timex,,,,straightforward and if you run 'em, they keep on ticking. The all fix it. Reportedly tolerates misuse better than most....but again, everyone can work on it.

2. Farymann...the gem, but old style and "foreign." Good fit. Likes use.

3, Bukh...too Big.

Properly installed,,,,the Farymnn is the best for size, weight and reliability.

Any engine has its fans and detractors....the Farymann seems to me to be the last standing quality, old school small diesel....and the Yanmar would be absolutely fine.

For your use...day cruising, a gas marine inboard 3-5hp would be the answer....there is no such animal out of the box with ready service and readily available parts.

The rub...an inboard diesel is economically illogical in a boat this size....and perversely, a gas inboard costs the same.

There are gas engines out there or engines that when modified /fixed up would be fine....but you need to be a homebrew engine mechanic to make it work out.... many are called, a few are.

I have the same issues in my search for an engine to repower my Drascombe Driver...an 18' sailboat set up for inboard...motorless at the moment. My preferred solution....a used but working Farymann 15w or 18w ....or if it would work ,,,for cost proportionality, a Honda GX200...no reverse (less important to me) but the high pitched whine I hear re safety scares me off the latter.

[Jerry Barnett]

My quick take.

1. Yanmars are the Chevy. And the Timex,,,,straightforward and if you run 'em, they keep on ticking. The all fix it. Reportedly tolerates misuse better than most....but again, everyone can work on it.

2. Farymann...the gem, but old style and "foreign." Good fit. Likes use.

3, Bukh...too Big.

Properly installed,,,,the Farymnn is the best for size, weight and reliability.

Any engine has its fans and detractors....the Farymann seems to me to be the last standing quality, old school small diesel....and the Yanmar would be absolutely fine.

For your use...day cruising, a gas marine inboard 3-5hp would be the answer....there is no such animal out of the box with ready service and readily available parts.

The rub...an inboard diesel is economically illogical in a boat this size....and perversely, a gas inboard costs the same.

There are gas engines out there or engines that when modified /fixed up would be fine....but you need to be a homebrew engine mechanic to make it work out.... many are called, a few are.

I have the same issues in my search for an engine to repower my Drascombe Driver...an 18' sailboat set up for inboard...motorless at the moment. My preferred solution....a used but working Farymann 15w or 18w ....or if it would work ,,,for cost proportionality, a Honda GX200...no reverse (less important to me) but the high pitched whine I hear re safety scares me off the latter.

[John A. Campbell]

Jerry, the Bukh DV7 is exactly the same horsepower, weight, and dimensions as the Farymann 18W so if the Farymann works for this boat or any other boat, so does the Bukh.

Now, what about this:.......the Victor Slocum at 15' 10" X 5'0" will have to be trailered so if its size is not in proportion to a small diesel, what would be wrong with scaling her up around 15% to something like 18'2" X 5'9"? I have heard that scaling a boat's dimensions down can be a bad move but scaling them up slightly is not always bad and can actually result in a better boat. ANY THOUGHTS ON THIS??

Several months ago there was a Forumite who built the V.S. at something around 20'0" and I had some communication with him and he was successful with this project......as I recall, he operated the boat in the Chesapeake Bay area.....he was going to send me some photos of his boat but I never received them. If he's still around, I would like to hear from him.

[John A. Campbell]

Jerry, the Bukh DV7 is exactly the same horsepower, weight, and dimensions as the Farymann 18W so if the Farymann works for this boat or any other boat, so does the Bukh.

Now, what about this:.......the Victor Slocum at 15' 10" X 5'0" will have to be trailered so if its size is not in proportion to a small diesel, what would be wrong with scaling her up around 15% to something like 18'2" X 5'9"? I have heard that scaling a boat's dimensions down can be a bad move but scaling them up slightly is not always bad and can actually result in a better boat. ANY THOUGHTS ON THIS??

Several months ago there was a Forumite who built the V.S. at something around 20'0" and I had some communication with him and he was successful with this project......as I recall, he operated the boat in the Chesapeake Bay area.....he was going to send me some photos of his boat but I never received them. If he's still around, I would like to hear from him.

[John A. Campbell]

Jerry, the Bukh DV7 is exactly the same horsepower, weight, and dimensions as the Farymann 18W so if the Farymann works for this boat or any other boat, so does the Bukh.

Now, what about this:.......the Victor Slocum at 15' 10" X 5'0" will have to be trailered so if its size is not in proportion to a small diesel, what would be wrong with scaling her up around 15% to something like 18'2" X 5'9"? I have heard that scaling a boat's dimensions down can be a bad move but scaling them up slightly is not always bad and can actually result in a better boat. ANY THOUGHTS ON THIS??

Several months ago there was a Forumite who built the V.S. at something around 20'0" and I had some communication with him and he was successful with this project......as I recall, he operated the boat in the Chesapeake Bay area.....he was going to send me some photos of his boat but I never received them. If he's still around, I would like to hear from him.

[helvit]

John, I'm going to settle on thorough investigation of the lovely Miss 2YM15. I haven't seen anything yet to invalidate a hopeful approach.

Scaling up could do it. Or go to Atkin's Fish Hawk.

[ 03-18-2006, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: helvit ]

[helvit]

John, I'm going to settle on thorough investigation of the lovely Miss 2YM15. I haven't seen anything yet to invalidate a hopeful approach.

Scaling up could do it. Or go to Atkin's Fish Hawk.

[ 03-18-2006, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: helvit ]

[helvit]

John, I'm going to settle on thorough investigation of the lovely Miss 2YM15. I haven't seen anything yet to invalidate a hopeful approach.

Scaling up could do it. Or go to Atkin's Fish Hawk.

[ 03-18-2006, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: helvit ]

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Originally posted by Paul Fitzgerald:
Impellers, belts and anodes are the maintenance issues for all small diesels, not just yanmar.

Indeed so,Paul, but I find that my Volvo MD2, huge old lump that it is, gets through far fewer than the Yanmar does. The Yanmar is in a launch; the Volvo is in a yacht.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Originally posted by Paul Fitzgerald:
Impellers, belts and anodes are the maintenance issues for all small diesels, not just yanmar.

Indeed so,Paul, but I find that my Volvo MD2, huge old lump that it is, gets through far fewer than the Yanmar does. The Yanmar is in a launch; the Volvo is in a yacht.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

Originally posted by Paul Fitzgerald:
Impellers, belts and anodes are the maintenance issues for all small diesels, not just yanmar.

Indeed so,Paul, but I find that my Volvo MD2, huge old lump that it is, gets through far fewer than the Yanmar does. The Yanmar is in a launch; the Volvo is in a yacht.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

What do you think is the reason for the difference Andrew? Does the Yanmar run at higher revs? Are the belts shorter? Yanmar uses separate belts for the water pump and the alternator, IIRC. Does the Volvo water pump run off the cam, rather than a belt?
This was the cause of all my problems with the Bukh. Pump seals go, water in the oil, siezed the handstart chain which broke and smashed the casing, and the chain pulley jammed and bent the camshaft! The water pump and handstart pulley are both on the front end of the camshaft.
I've had issues in the past with pulleys on replacement alternators which were a slightly different profile from the original. Really chews the belts with a high output alternator. Yanmar zincs tend to be a bit small too, but so are the Bukh.
I dont mind working on motors, especially maintenance, and my latest boat has great engine access to the Yanmar. Its a Halmatic 30, the only one in Australia as far as I know. Thanks for the tips.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

What do you think is the reason for the difference Andrew? Does the Yanmar run at higher revs? Are the belts shorter? Yanmar uses separate belts for the water pump and the alternator, IIRC. Does the Volvo water pump run off the cam, rather than a belt?
This was the cause of all my problems with the Bukh. Pump seals go, water in the oil, siezed the handstart chain which broke and smashed the casing, and the chain pulley jammed and bent the camshaft! The water pump and handstart pulley are both on the front end of the camshaft.
I've had issues in the past with pulleys on replacement alternators which were a slightly different profile from the original. Really chews the belts with a high output alternator. Yanmar zincs tend to be a bit small too, but so are the Bukh.
I dont mind working on motors, especially maintenance, and my latest boat has great engine access to the Yanmar. Its a Halmatic 30, the only one in Australia as far as I know. Thanks for the tips.

[Paul Fitzgerald]

What do you think is the reason for the difference Andrew? Does the Yanmar run at higher revs? Are the belts shorter? Yanmar uses separate belts for the water pump and the alternator, IIRC. Does the Volvo water pump run off the cam, rather than a belt?
This was the cause of all my problems with the Bukh. Pump seals go, water in the oil, siezed the handstart chain which broke and smashed the casing, and the chain pulley jammed and bent the camshaft! The water pump and handstart pulley are both on the front end of the camshaft.
I've had issues in the past with pulleys on replacement alternators which were a slightly different profile from the original. Really chews the belts with a high output alternator. Yanmar zincs tend to be a bit small too, but so are the Bukh.
I dont mind working on motors, especially maintenance, and my latest boat has great engine access to the Yanmar. Its a Halmatic 30, the only one in Australia as far as I know. Thanks for the tips.

[mwybo]

Any experience with the Beta Marine engines ? Kubota based Built in England.

Mike

[mwybo]

Any experience with the Beta Marine engines ? Kubota based Built in England.

Mike

[mwybo]

Any experience with the Beta Marine engines ? Kubota based Built in England.

Mike