Beautiful project and great wood and metal work.
tiller shape is almost identical to the shape of an ADZ HANDLE, which i find made of hickory @ about $8/ea from the local flea mkt
I DO LOVE THAT SHAPE!
"we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)
Looks nice but I would like to see the grain running out through the jaws.
This is wonderful news!
I have to say, I have my reservations about Dixon Kemp's drawings of the centerboard. I suspect Una had a centerboard more like the later New York boats, rather than the British style Kemp drew for it.
Here is an example of an 1862 boat that sometimes raced as a catboat. The lines were taken off the actual boat by John Hyslop, whereas Kemp was working with a half model:
I'm sure that's an exaggerated racing centerboard, most likely the one Fish designed looked more like this:
The trouble with the one in Kemp's drawing is that it leaves almost nothing in the case, and therefore puts a lot of stress on a small part of it. I've sailed a sharpie with such a setup, and the case always leaked.
The centerboard trunk is rabbeted into the keel as per Kemp's description. I thought the board was perhaps a little undersized, not really sure how much it was extended when underway. Certainly not totally vertical, I hope. It also seems a little light to me, will add some lead for some heft. Will prepare a larger board if required.
This thread is going to be a delight to follow!
I was born on a wooden boat that I built myself.
This will be fun to watch.
Can you look at jointing on an upright to the aft end? A bit like this one but higher:
That will share the racking load with the pivot bolt, and allow for belt and braces by putting a stop through the top to prevent the board dropping if the pendant breaks.
It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.
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The weakness of the web: Anyone can post anything on the web.
Looks like there is room to move the pin up. Wouldn't that result in better lateral support?
I've started working on the stem section of the keel, just seeing how the subassembly fits. The knee will need an adjustment. The question comes to mind- bronze drift pins or 3/8 ' bronze lags with washers to secure the deadwood to the keel? I will be using tar and fabric at the seams of all the subassemblies. I'm just not a fan of drift pins. I would like for as much of these assemblies to be removable if needed in case of damage or refitting. Anyone have an opinion?
Nice work!That will be a very smart looking boat and I hope we will be kept up to date with the progress.
Nothing specific to UNA but an interesting writeup on Gil Smith and his boats that you may/may not have:
I get by with the judicious use of serendipity.
I've been playing around with a foundry recently and hadn't considered casting the screw threads. I assume bronze is stronger than the aluminum I've been using but I wonder if aluminum screws would work? I could use some pad eyes for the boat I'm working on and the oarlock would work on a previous boat I made. Just looking for ideas and was happy to have clicked on this thread.
Sea Dreams A.K.A. Brian
I'll post these casting when they come back from the foundry. To show how much cleanup they do before shipping. The first batch of castings (with red background above) cost me $140 with $10 in shipping.
----------- You say she is an early example of a N.J. cat, .... She was built there? (Did you post a thread a couple of years ago about researching a an early NJ cat that was built somewhere around the Perth Amboy area of NJ?....... Was that Una??) Am I putting the pieces together correctly here? (Sorry I'm a bit late joining in here.)
As a comment on her frames, by the 1850's steam bent ribs were well established on the Jersey shore so they were certainly available as a choice for her.
I'd be surprised If bronze rowlocks would have been used on her at that time. Thole pins were definitely all over the Jersey shore then.