Mainsheet traveler placement?

[Art Read]

Hi, folks... I'm making some decisions on hardware placement now that the deck is almost framed in. Most things are pretty well detailed in the plans or are self explanatory. But I have to make a pretty basic choice now with regard to the mainsheet traveler before installing the support blocking for it. The plans, (and common sense/tradition...) call for the traveler to be mounted right aft, just forward of the deck edge. The traveler wlll be a simple "U" shaped bronze rod thru-bolted to the backing blocks. But SWMBO's insistance on SOME form of auxiliary power and a sweet deal on one of those neat, bronze, removeable outboard engine brackets will interfere with placing the traveler where it ought to be unless I put the engine well off to one side. Not a very practical solution with my VERY narrow transom. (Probably also mean having to go with a much shorter traveler than I need/want as well) My initial thought is to simply move the traveler far enough forward to place the engine bracket mounting "plate" aft of it. This would only mean shifting the traveler about 6 or 8 inches forward of the location shown in the plans. I realise this will change the geometry of the mainsheet lead down from the boom topping, but we aren't talking about a very "high tech" rig here... Splice at the boom topping leading down through the deck/traveler block, up to a second block on a boom bale mounted about a third of the way along the boom and finally down to a cleat in the cockpit. It occurs to me I may want a slighty shorter "run" to the traveler since it would be farther forward and that it may not "look" quite right somehow, not being right aft, but are there any other, less obvious problems with this scheme that haven't occured to me yet? Thanks... This is the first real deviation from the plans that I've contemplated, so I'm a bit hesitant...

[Ed Harrow]

Another approach, might work, might convince SWMBO , haul a real tender with an outboard. If you need power, haul it up alongside, secure appropriately, fire it up and away you go .

The sweet lines of your Dark Harbor remain unsullied.

[Billy Bones]

Art, I'm looking at some old pictures of S+S Dark Harbors and they aren't much help. They have no traveller, only a dbl sheave block on deck and what looks like a single sheave with a becket at the boom ends. Interestingly, the sheet is led along the boom all the way forward to the mast and down to the 'cabin' top.

Anyway, I should think it wouldn't matter too much if you moved the traveller forward a few inches as long as you moved the bail on the boom forward to the same degree. I'd rig it so the sheet's standing end attached to the boom end, then down to traveller gear, back up to boom at revised position, and on per design from there. Ya folla? You'd probably be disqualified from strict one-design competition, if that sort of thing is important to you ( and if there even is a one-design fleet of Crowninshield's DH12) 'course I'm no expert. Good luck...

[Mike Field]

I'm not familiar with the boat, Art, but I'd have to agree that moving it forward a few inches won't make much difference.

In principle, though, the further forward it goes the less leverage it exerts -- if someone suggested mounting the horse on the cabintop, for instance, then you'd probably need to redesign the sheeting system and possibly also the boom.

[Don Z.]

Art, correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems to me that your transom is so narrow, that traveller really won't do a lot of good... you could pretty much replace it with a single block, and not tell much of a difference... I may be way off base here, but that's my first thought.

[John B]

Sounds a bit light on purchase Art, ( this coming from Mr less is best)( hate that friction) but I wouldn't be worried about moving the traveller inboard.
I ended up with, and like the double ended type because it removes the conflict with the tiller and you can chuck both off to ease in a hurry. Mine's now set up as a 6:1 but was a 4:1. The latter would ease in the light( acceptable friction) and gave plenty to haul in with.

this is the only one I have showing the mainsheet. You can see what I mean about staying out of the way of the tiller though. It can be lead to the free winch if necessary.

[This message has been edited by John B (edited 09-06-2001).]

[Zane Lewis]

First question is how long is your boom and how big is the sail.

Followed by do you race or cruse.

A mainsheet that is say only 2/3 the way along the boom will use far less sheet which saves a lot of tangels in the cockpit. However we have this with a 4:1 on a 380 sq ft sail and hard on the wind have to really swing on it to get the leach in tight if it is windy. The traverler is on the cabin top.
This works for us as we have less sheet, and no risk of being hit by flying blocks in a tack etc, as well since we have no boom vane the travel further forward gives us more sail control.
So unless you have a very large sail moving the traveler forward should not be a problem with respect to load.


As the previous poster noted if you have a narrow transom and are into crusing why not go to quarter sheeting with a block in each corner. Not so efficent at controlling the sail but looks good, very simple, and cost effective.

Have you considered a rope traveler?


Zane

[John B]

Found another one.

I found one of those deck plate turning blocks secondhand and got another cast off it. Merriman I think. The system works very well. A 4:1 has one less block on the horse and was good for us with a 425 ft sail and a 20ft boom. I needed to change to 6:1 because I couldnt get the new 600 ft main in. LOL.( weakling)

[Art Read]

Thanks, Guys! Took a another long look at the original sailplan. I'd forgotten all about the tiller being above the aft deck! Guess I'm going to need at least one more turning block on deck aft of the tiller after all. I was envisioning the setup on our old family boat with the tiller mounted below the the aft cockpit coaming. Hmmmm.... Perhaps a double ended sheet WOULD make more sense. At any rate, the original sailplan does show the simple setup described above, with the standing part starting with an eyesplice through the end of the boom, through the traveler block and up to the boom bale, but then it continues through another turn block aft of the tiller and then to a cleat mounted just to stbd. and forward. Very similar to what we had with the bigger, family boat. This sail is only 166 sq. feet. Does seem like it might be a bit ackward to tend when on the port tack. Then again, it's a pretty narrow boat! Nothing's going to be very far away no matter where it is! I guess it worked for the originals? Anyway, I've got awhile to mull that part over. Sounds like the consensus is that moving the traveler forward is feasable? I think that's the way I'm going to go. I noticed the DH 17 1/2 has it's sheet "profile" similar to what I propose, so I guess it won't look too out of character. Ed, as for your suggestion, believe me, I tried it! But she makes a good point. The whole idea for this boat is to have something quick and easy to up and get out on the water at a momement's notice should the impulse hit. Rigging a dingy on the hip just to get out of an ackward slip or towing one behind every time we go out just in case the wind dies, kind of defeats the purpose. The plans show oarlocks on the coamings and I plan to use them whenever practical, but I'm not convinced she's really gonna be very manageable under oar. I think this removeable bracket will make a good compromise. Unless I want to use it, it and the engine will live stowed away somewhere amidships in a water/fuel proof plastic storage container of some sort. The only visible evidence that she's not a "virgin" will be the small, (about 2" x 6")
bronze mounting "plate" behind the traveler. Thanks for the ideas, folks!

[Ed Harrow]

Definately go with the two-ended sheet arrangement, you'll be glad you did.

[True Love]

So, WHEN are we gonna get to see your latest progress, Art, my good man?! I'm seriously thinking of building a Dark Harbor 12 and need some inspiration!

Happy "travelling" -

TL

[gert]

Excuse my ignorence but how does a double ended sheet work?

[Mike Field]

Here's about the simplest arrangement, Gert, giving a 2:1 purchase.




Each end, after leading through its quarter-block (cf JohnB's turning blocks,) can be belayed on a cleat immediately forward of the block, inside the gunwale. The end you're not using for the moment gets cleated off while you hang on to the other one.

When you want to shift sides (normally when you change tack,) you cleat off the old working end -- which then becomes the new deadend -- and cast off the old deadend, which is now your new working end.

Apart from anything else, such an arrangement helps even out the wear on the sheet, too.