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Thread: Snekker find

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Default Snekker find

    Hello Forum, found this 1969 Snekker 18'boat for $200, how could I resist. Have been viewing this forum since its inception, but first time posting. At first I bought this as a carpentry project, but then also found a 1974 Bukh 10horse diesel to put in it. Would appreciate some help as to how to go about restoring it in the best way. Here are some of the problems:

    1. Have a split in #4 plank starboard side. This seems too big to swell back. It starts 2' from the stern to @ 7' from the stem, with a butt block in the middle. Should I replace both planks or place one in between with 2 butt blocks.
    2. Have other splits at butt block connections, but they seem like they might swell back up. At the splits, should I just apply epoxy in the splits and reblock?
    3. The sheer planks and rails have split and or rotted on both sides. Should I replace the whole plank or splice the top 2" of it?

    Also, should I apply anything like linseed oil to keep it from drying out. It is in my garage right now.
    Thanks, my name is Tom Wilhelmsen, and would appreciate any advice. Here are the some pics. Tell me if you need any more.


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Bellingham, Washington USA
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    216

    Default Re: Snekker find

    Very cool boat. I had a very similar Rana boat. It's not that hard to replace the bad planks. Grind or drill the rove heads off and drive the nail out with a nail set. Use the old plank as a pattern. The smaller cracks can be left to swell back up. I sometimes drill a hole just ahead of the crack and glue a small dowel in place to prevent the crack from growing. You can also fill the crack with a soft putty which can squeeze out when swelled.

    Good luck
    "I see!" said the blind man who picked up his hammer and saw.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    UK. Cornwall, Suffolk.
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    6,637

    Default Re: Snekker find

    Don't tell Peerie Ma about those butt blocks...

    Very interesting boat. Better to replace any badly cracked planks with new planks as was built, keeping joins to a minimum. Epoxy into cracks is a no no.

    Will be following with interest.

  4. #4
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    Jan 2013
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    Lakebay, WA
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    867

    Default Re: Snekker find

    sweet

  5. #5
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    Nov 2014
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    Lübeck, Schleswig Holstein, Germany
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    I like this boat, have you got a side view photo?
    For 200 I would have bought it, too...
    I think well kept old boats - also with repairs - look so much cooler than clean & new...

  6. #6
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    Jan 2010
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    Northern Europe
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    I would be inclined to remove the sheer planks, though if you dont mind a painted finish, repair strips let into the plank would work, unless you dont mind seeing the repair and the joins are tight. The other planks i would consider replacing. My Vattern Snipa has a plank that opens up around half inch during the time ashore, but has so far miraculously closed up every year; it does however weep under a press of sail, so i am aware that it is a weakness, and it will have to be replaced at some point. Often see internal or external planking laid over such splits, which is quick but very workboat looking. I have once fitted a long 6mm plywood strip laid on polysulphide to a long split on a folkboat plank, that got removed after a few weeks in the water when the planking swelled. Some planks will recover others will not.
    Although i dont see epoxy as a cure for this type of problem, i do know of a boat that was completely repaired and coated using nothing else but epoxy and fillers as the owner did not have the experience to cut and shape planks and refasten them. Important to add that the boat was dry when he started and ended up weighing far more than the original and i dare say he spent more in epoxy than he might have spent paying a shipwright to do the needed repairs, but he did get very experienced at making very good fillets. Can you source good planking stock locally?

  7. #7
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    Oct 2008
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    Walney, near Cumbria UK
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    Quote Originally Posted by tomwil View Post
    Hello Forum, found this 1969 Snekker 18'boat for $200, how could I resist. Have been viewing this forum since its inception, but first time posting. At first I bought this as a carpentry project, but then also found a 1974 Bukh 10horse diesel to put in it. Would appreciate some help as to how to go about restoring it in the best way. Here are some of the problems:

    1. Have a split in #4 plank starboard side. This seems too big to swell back. It starts 2' from the stern to @ 7' from the stem, with a butt block in the middle. Should I replace both planks or place one in between with 2 butt blocks.
    2. Have other splits at butt block connections, but they seem like they might swell back up. At the splits, should I just apply epoxy in the splits and reblock?
    3. The sheer planks and rails have split and or rotted on both sides. Should I replace the whole plank or splice the top 2" of it?

    Also, should I apply anything like linseed oil to keep it from drying out. It is in my garage right now.
    Thanks, my name is Tom Wilhelmsen, and would appreciate any advice. Here are the some pics. Tell me if you need any more.

    Quote Originally Posted by lupussonic View Post
    Don't tell Peerie Ma about those butt blocks...
    Well, with 4830 boats built they will have been cutting some corners to get them out.

    I'd replace the shear strake rather than patching them. It will be easier and stronger to replace it/them.

    That plank at the waterline is also shot and should come out.

    The short split in the plank below the shear strake can be repaired with a glued in spline.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Staten Island, NY
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    32

    Default Re: Snekker find

    Hi Guys, thanks for the info. I really think this boat is worth to rebuild, so I will go about replacing the planks to start. Now to find the right wood. If anybody knows what kind of wood this is I would appreciate it. If you notice on one of the pictures, I sanded the inside of one of the planks. The boat was built in south/western Norway, and I would like to get the closest species to it. Will try to get a side view taken soon. Also, still want to know if I should give the boat a coating of linseed oil to keep the wood from drying out. Thanks again, Tom.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Bergen, Norway
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    The wood is most likely pine (Furu).

    Where are you situated?

    Giving the boat some oil is never wrong.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Staten Island, NY
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    Thanks Haabet, I live in NYC (Staten Island), and will probably have to go north of here to find good wood. I will bring a strake with me when I go so the lumberyard can match it up. Thanks again.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    La Conner, WA
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    402

    Default Re: Snekker find

    I built boats like this in Norway, and in the States. The planking on your boat looks like Norwegian Furu, which is a pine but very similiar in strength and rot resistance to Douglas Fir. The closest wood I ever found here in the States to match the Furu was Westen Larch or Tamarack. This is not an easy wood to source, the Doug Fir in a flat grain will match pretty well as a repair plank.

  12. #12
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    Jul 2000
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    Very nice!!! if it were me, I think I would go with Atlantic White cedar for replacement planks (unless others have a good reason not to). It is beautiful stuff, light weight, wonderful to work with, and a great lapstrake planking material. You could get what you need at Sheir Brothers sawmill in S. Jersey http://www.schairerbros.com/index.html They are an old school sawmill, and very pleasant.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Bergen, Norway
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    233

    Default Re: Snekker find

    The wood of the hull may be pine, but larch was very much used on these types of boats along the southern coast of Norway.

  14. #14
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    Dec 2012
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    Staten Island, NY
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    Hello again, here are some more pics, I know everyone likes. I will be sourcing out the wood soon, and so far the northern white cedar seems most available. Will inquire about the western larch or tamarack, but the NWC sounds nice. Thanks again for all your advice, I really do appreciate it. Also for you Norwegian members if you know anything about this builder (Kolbjornsvik) from Arendal that would be very interesting. My guess is they went out of business as did many others.

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    Very pretty boat, and thoroughly deserves saving- good luck with her.
    I would go for 1/4 sawn larch- the closer grained the better.
    The split planks do not look 1/4 sawn.....

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    Quote Originally Posted by tomwil View Post
    Hello again, here are some more pics, I know everyone likes. I will be sourcing out the wood soon, and so far the northern white cedar seems most available. Will inquire about the western larch or tamarack, but the NWC sounds nice. Thanks again for all your advice, I really do appreciate it. Also for you Norwegian members if you know anything about this builder (Kolbjornsvik) from Arendal that would be very interesting. My guess is they went out of business as did many others.

    I'd check out that discoloured wood in the land at the shear strake bottom edge. A gentle poke with a small screwdriver of bradawl to look for softening.

    The timber looks a bit like larch. If you are finishing her bright larch might blend better with the original wood.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  17. #17
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    Aug 2011
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    Quartersawn planks are preferred for karvel while flat sawn planks are preferred for lapstrake building, without being too categoric about it. Flatsawn planks swell less in the thickness direction and reduce the stress on the rivets. The disadvantage is of course the possibilities of cracks. Nevertheless the Norwegian tradition was to use flat sawn planks for lapstrake building.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    ^ the same in the UK. The butt is sawn through and through, and stickered in two alternating piles, so that when the planks are selected the same part of the tree is used for both port and stbd strake.
    It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.

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  19. #19
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    Jul 2000
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    Default Re: Snekker find

    Larch would be nice, but I think you may have a hard time finding it near S.I. You might try ML Condon lumber in White Plains to see if they can help. -- Interesting she has a left hand prop.

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