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Thread: LYS Build Plans #582

  1. #141
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Harriman Tn USA
    Posts
    8

    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Great boat and thread. I have plan number 1066 and starting my build soon. Love your skiff.

  2. #142
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Harriman Tn USA
    Posts
    8

    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Mine will mostly be used for fishing and duck hunting on the Tn River. Iím not gonna need that nice finish you have as Iím trying a nat-gear camo paint job that will be a flat finish. Also I will be going with a tiller steering set-up. Your boat really looks sweet setting in the water though

  3. #143
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Lakeland, Florida
    Posts
    112

    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Thanks for the kind words!

    Good luck on your build, she is a solid boat for hunting, fishing, crabbing, whatever. The flat bottom makes for shallow draft and she is very stable. The tiller configuration will give you maximum deck space. You will see that this is a big boat for 16 feet.

    John

  4. #144
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Lakeland, Florida
    Posts
    112

    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Further update on performance...

    I had on my list to replace some gaskets in the motor because the water jacket leaked a bit. I found out I should stick to wood and fiberglass. There is a whole learning curve to the mechanical side of outboards and I climbed it the hard way. I broke 3 head bolts trying to remove them and then broke the screw extractor bit on the first one I tried to extract. Time to step away and re-evaluate my choices.

    Running with 4 folks had shown me the limits of the 25 hp motor and I had already had the thought to go up a bit after I had run her for a while. Well, rather than try to salvage the motor, why not re-power? I explored new motors and ran into the dealer dilemma. If you buy new, the dealer has to install and rig the motor, so you end up with a hefty price tag (I was getting quotes of 6 to 8 grand for 30 hp mercury with controls). If I had gone new from the beginning, that may have been ok, but I already have a working throttle/shift and electrical set-up, so that is shop hours and equipment that I don't need to buy. None of the dealers I talked to would agree to hang the motor and let me do the rest (warranty not valid if they don't do the install, etc.). I understand their position, but decided not to go that way.

    My quest continued on craigslist. I found an older Mariner (built by Yamaha) 40 hp 2 stroke that had part of the remote steering setup still attached. Started and ran good on the stand so I took the plunge (1 grand instead of 6). Another plus to the older 2 stroke: weight. My 25 weighed 115 lb. and the Mariner only weighed 145 lb. The new Mercury would have been close to 200 lb. Easier to accept 30 extra pounds than 85 extra.

    Got the motor home and switched them (those 2 words were 2 days of prep and musical motors with an engine lift, but not complaining). One part of the switch was shaving some thickness off the transom. I had glued in a piece of 3/4 ply at the top of the transom to give the clamps more to bite on. This proved about 1/4 inch too thick for the Mariner, so out came the power plane and I made lots of wood chips. Hung the new motor to line up the holes. No surprise that the Mariner holes were in a different place, so mark, drill, fill, drill the new holes and fill the old ones with wood flour thickened epoxy. I also ran a coat of epoxy over the shaved part of the transom. Let everything cure for a day, then hang the motor and drill final holes.

    The next few days were spent rigging the steering, throttle and shift (thankfully the Mariner and Mercury are the same: pull for forward, pull to open throttle). I was able to "adapt" the Mercury control ends to the Mariner (1 extra hole in the throttle linkage). I bought the Seloc repair manual for the Mariner, good to have for reference. It also gave me the wiring colors. I could not find a harness that looked right, so I decided to roll my own. the motor has no trim or other stuff, so all I need to wire are 12v Pos. and Neg. and Start, Kill, and Tach. Off to West Marine for a 4 conductor wire (bonus, the wire colors matched the engine wire colors, so no mental gymnastics to remember which color changes to what). The motor already had hefty battery cable for 12V, so I just spliced it to my existing cable. The Start, Kill and Tach. got wired with bullet connectors so I could put everything back if (when) I sell this motor. The fuel connector matched too (more good luck) so time for a driveway sea trial.

    I hooked up the muffs and turned on the water. Battery on, choke, pump the fuel bulb and it started right up! I was due for a win, so that felt good. The tachometer seemed to indicate reasonably so I think that is right. Pulled the safety lanyard and it killed the engine, so good there too.

    We have company the next few days, so no real sea trials until Sunday or Monday. I will post more when I get those completed.

    John

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