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Thread: LYS Build Plans #582

  1. #71
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    my skiff was built in 1991 and so far i have no rot issues arouuund drain tube

    dad n i overdrilled & bedded the tube in pox

    here is a tool that would have made short order of the installation

    https://www.amazon.com/520290-1-Drai...iglink20417-20

    sw
    "we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)

    steve

  2. #72
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    I am struggling with the drain plug question as well. Do you have an idea of where you will locate it? Through the transom on either side of the knee or straight through the bottom in the same area? If through the bottom the plug flaring tool probably wont work with the given thickness. I am going to use my boat for both fishing and clamming, both of which will put blood, guts, river and sea water in the boat. Would like to be able to give it a quick rinse on pull out and drain.

    On the other hand, I also considered a hand pump just to get the last bit of it after a quick wash down.

  3. #73
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Quote Originally Posted by shuffjb View Post
    So drain plug idea always sets off this debate in my head.
    I'm the guy that throws the grenade in the room then steps back to enjoy the debate. The majority of the time a drain hole is the way to go. But not always. There is a minority of times when maybe a drain hole is not the best idea.

    http://boatbw.blogspot.com/2016/06/d...-boat.html?m=1

  4. #74
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Wow, a month since my last post. The good news is that I have been spending more time on the boat. The bad news is that I have been working on a number of small but important parts that do not show up as much visible progress.

    Drain Plug Debate results: I choose to install a drain plug. That takes me to the next issue of where. Right now leaning towards 1 foot or from the starboard corner post (there must be a nautical name for this). I like the drill-fill-drill idea, using that for the lifting eyes, bow eye, and the motor through bolts. I also think I need to make the original oversize hole actually cut into the bottom a little so there is not a big step up from the sole (top side of the bottom plank) to the bottom edge of the drain hole. The other challenge is that there is a 2X8 plus 1.5" of plywood to go through, so I will have to cut into the 2X8 a bit to bring the total thickness to 2 7/8" or so for a 3 inch tube to have some room to be flared. Out will come the trusty oscillating edge trim saw and the chisels. Pictures once I get to it. Must be done before finish covering of the sole.

    Console: I have drilled 3 different holes for the helm. One in my original console and 2 in the replacement console (I picked wrong with my first try on the height). Some background, the original console was 24" wide and build out of 3/4 ply. One reason for the re-do on the console is that 3/4 ply is overkill and too heavy. The other reason is that I did not take into account the width of the side decks and access to get around the console on the sides. By all I read and by my own experiments, 18" between the console and the sides (inwale / splash board / inner edge of side deck) is most comfortable. So to have 6" of side deck on each side takes up 12" of beam right off the top. Take out another 36" for 18" on both sides and account for the narrowing of the beam as you go forward and I was left with 20" as a better outside width for the console.

    Time to re-think the console design. I am never going to have a dual screen GPS/Radar/Fishfinder. I don't need 4 engine gauges for each of my 3 engines. I won't need a 24 switch panel to manage my electrical loads. Given that, after looking at tons of pictures and going over designs, I came up with a "lectern" type console. I have actually seen several pictures of skiff type boats with this design and it looks good IMHO. So here is what I came up with for console 2.0:



    1/2" ply, covered in 6 oz. glass. The vertical orientation of the helm uses up the least fore-aft space (another thing that started disappearing as I put on side and fore decks). The tachometer will go in the upper left corner of the helm. A 6 switch panel with usb chargers and 12v plug goes in the lower left corner of helm. On the top left will be GPS/Depth (probably a 3.5 or 4 inch size). Center will be Compass. I plan on leaving the rest of the top for throwing cell phones, car keys, fishing pliers, and other miscellaneous stuff that rattles around on most consoles. More pictures when I have it done. The down east style helm seems to fit with a wooden boat. I almost wish I had gone for a brass helm with wood spokes now, but I guess I can change it out later.

    Continued next post
    Last edited by shuffjb; 02-20-2017 at 06:37 AM. Reason: spelling and grammar

  5. #75
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    One more console thing: The plan is to put 6 gallon portable tank in the bottom of the console. I am still trying to figure a place for the VHF radio or maybe just use a portable.

    Inside of the sides are all covered in 6 oz. glass, will be filling weave in prep for primer, etc. I have glued 2x4 cleats to the sole for the console and the 2 cooler seats (I do not want to screw them to the sole since it is the top of the bottom plank). The cleats also give a good height to the cooler seats.

    I have settled on IPE (Brazilian tiger wood) for my rub rails and console trim. A friend had several planks left over from a deck project. It is a lot like teak and should add a nice trim detail. I am still working out the geometry in my head, but I think I will end up with 2 strips that are 2 1/4" by 3/4" thick out of each plank. It seems to bend good enough at that size. Now to work on making scarf joints and such. One question, make joints on the bench and then attach one long piece or make joints as you attach each piece? I am leaning towards join on the bench since it seems that lining up a joint while bending/fitting will just be too much.

    The list is getting shorter, maybe I will splash this year.

    - Final placement and fitting of Console
    - Drain Plug
    - Dynel on sole
    - Cut and install side and fore decks
    - Glass top of decks (maybe dynel for non skid, still thinking on it)
    - Fill weave and sand, fill, sand, fill, prime outside sides
    - Finish coat outside and inside
    - Mount Motobr /> - Rig Steering, Throttle/Shift
    - Electrical

    Somewhere in the list is acquire trailer and get the boat on it. Not rushing since work on the inside is easier with it down lower.

  6. #76
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Quote Originally Posted by shuffjb View Post
    ...

    Somewhere in the list is acquire trailer and get the boat on it. Not rushing since work on the inside is easier with it down lower.

    just jump'd onto CraigsList and wander'd down to your neck of the woods

    there are several trailers listed in the $450 - $800 range that might be suitable

    of course they'z a few of them thar aluminium trailors avalible for a few more shekels ;-)

    sw
    "we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)

    steve

  7. #77
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    terrific build thread...watching with great interest

  8. #78
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Quote Originally Posted by swoody126 View Post
    just jump'd onto CraigsList and wander'd down to your neck of the woods

    there are several trailers listed in the $450 - $800 range that might be suitable

    of course they'z a few of them thar aluminium trailors avalible for a few more shekels ;-)

    sw

    Steve, I hear you and thanks for the search. I look at craigslist twice a day most days. It is where I found the motor for this project. Trailers on craigslist are another proposition. I have seen many that could be used with minimal fix-up / modification. My challenge is space. I can't have a trailer and a boat in two separate spaces, so once I have the trailer, the boat has to go on it.

    So my "official" plan at the moment is to buy a Magic Tilt MT16XW-1500 from a local dealer. Pros: New trailer with no surprises, Timing - can have it whenever I am ready. Cons: Cost, no "builder" cred.

    Alternate 1: Build from scratch using Glen-L Trailer plans. Pros: Still a "new" trailer, Cost less than new but still more than used, Lots of "builder" cred, fit exactly as I want it. Cons: Space to build (since boat already in garage), Time (I want to be boating not building a trailer).

    Alternate 2: Craigslist find. Pros: Primarily Cost Cons: Timing - have to take it when available, Time - some amount of fix-up / modification required before it can be used.

    I have the welding/metal fab skills to do alternate 1 or 2, It will come down to what works out once I am mostly done with the interior.

    The adventure continues

    John

  9. #79
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    hey John, i looked up your intended purchase and it presents me with a ponderment

    the Magic Tilt you listed appears to be designed/set up where the skiff would sit above/over the fenders

    my aluminium flat boat sits on top of her store bought'n galvanized trailer much like your skiff would sit on the Magic Tilt

    the old pocket trawler i got in Florida came sitting ON TOP of a galvanized IRON trailer(been replaced) that was narrower than the hull

    Termite's Delite, my wooden skiff, sits IN a trailer i created from used parts

    trailers that fit under boats leave the boat vulnerable in the event of an *%&$#@*&...

    parking lots, launching ramps, garage door jams, bicycles etc(the etc are most hazardous) in the garage and inconsiderate drivers all give me the willies when the sides of a hull are the most prominent component of a rig!

    when boats ride IN their trailers they sit lower and are better protected for the most dangerous parts of their lives, everything they are exposed to when not in the water...

    trailers designed to cradle the boat are easier to load solo ;-), specially in adverse weather conditions/cross winds

    the tales i could share would quite dramatically describe my reasoning for preferring to have my boats ride IN their trailers rather than ON them

    if you have ever witnessed the damage done to the underside of an RV after a blow out you will see another potential issue :-O

    just thought i'd muddy the waters this morning

    on w/ THE ADVENTURE

    sw
    "we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)

    steve

  10. #80
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Getting closer to the day we see this beauty in the water!

  11. #81
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    I'm up against the same issues regarding trailer with our Point comfort 23. New or used? I like new for reliability, but a trailer for a 23'er ain't cheep! For your rubrails, I would definitely glue up the scarf on the bench, and bed the thing as a whole. You'll get a better job that way. Good luck finishing the boat!

  12. #82
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Steve: Thanks for the muddier waters and your thoughtful comments I have looked deeper into the new trailer market and am currently considering the Continental AS1616. More of an In than On type of trailer. I am also starting to look at a few local boat dealers to see what happens to be laying about their yards that would fit.

    Jim: Thanks for the tip on scarfing, I have been following your Point Comfort build with great envy and interest. That is one pretty boat! I wish I had room for a 23 or even an 18. The Point Comfort is on my list of boats to build. For what it is worth, the trailer build option gives you the same reliability since the undercarriage is the part that is suspect on a used trailer. the welding on a trailer is minimal and you can probably get someone to do it for a nominal fee. The Glen-L trailer plans are very detailed and clear and affordable.

  13. #83
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Well, the list just got shorter.

    - Cut and install side and fore decks ... Done

    Still oversize, but tomorrow will see them trimmed and faired up. Like everything else in this project the reality of getting the step done was nothing like the weeks and months of daydreaming that came before. I had imagined cutting long 8 ft. sections out of my remaining full sheet of 3/4 ply, somehow balancing it on the edge while scribing lines along the top chine, etc. The reality was that I did better with 4 ft. sections about 10" wide. They were easier to handle and only added one more joint on each side. Oh well, live and learn. I also have converted entirely to thickened epoxy for all my glue-ups. Every section took 6 oz. of pox with wood flour mixed to peanut butter consistency. just enough left over to fair the joint a bit and fill a screw hole or two. So that is 18 oz. of epoxy, 3 stir sticks, 3 plastic drink cups and 3 sets of gloves for each side, 18 oz. of epoxy, 3 stir sticks, 3 plastic drink cups and 1 set of gloves (mini marathon) for the bow section.

    If I had been this comfortable with epoxy when I started, I may have built a stitch and glue design instead. I still love the look and feel of the LYS though. Oh well, next boat I guess, this is a joyous obsession after all .

    Pictures tomorrow or the next day.

  14. #84
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Deck pictures....

    Oversize



    Outboard edge trimmed with cleats laid about where I am thinking of putting them...



    Still need to trim the inboard edges and figure something for where the sides meet the bow. Seems to need something with a nice curve rather than just an angular meeting of straight edges.

    Still loving the power plane. Have learned to respect the "power" part of the name. Nice and easy does it. It is easy to go too deep, so plane, check, plane, etc.

    Till next time,
    John

  15. #85
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Thanks for the photos, John. And regarding your comment about your plane, that is the one power tool I will very surely add to the arsenal when I start my build. I have thought about the oscillating tool as well, but have never used one so cannot speak for its utility.

  16. #86
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    So I went to fair up the inside edges of the decks and ran into an issue.

    My new favorite tool, the power plane is no good at fairing up inside curves. It only works for flat or outside curves.

    Inside edges will need a router and a flush trim bit. Borrowed a friends trim router and made pretty quick work of the inside edges. The belt sander will give me a final smoothing out before I put the inner trim on.

    Next is to cut down the IPE flooring to 2/14 widths and scarf them together for rub rails.

    Family in town this week so it will be a couple of weeks before I can get much done on the project.

  17. #87
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    router bits w/ roller bearings at the bottom are your friend !!!

    i keep flush cut, 1/4 round overs of several radii & chamfer bits in my arsenal, as well as some bottom cutting bits w/o bearings for cutting dados

    the 1/4 round overs sure do give a finished look to seats, chines, floorboards and trim pieces

    just babbling...

    sw
    "we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)

    steve

  18. #88
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Steve: Right you are! had to get a new flush cut trim bit (roller at bottom) since I didn't have one that would trim 3/4 in one pass. Have several round over and dado type bits too.

    The router is another one that gets lots of respect. I always make sure I am holding firmly when cutting. It will cut a lot in a hurry if you let it get away (you can probably guess how I know that ). Also wear eye and ear protection religiously.

  19. #89
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    32k rpm, 2 SHARP carbide cutting edges, 64k cuts/minute

    YEP, eye & ear protection AND don't wear any loose clothing ;-)

    next think about a cheapy-rat router table that can be clamped to a work station as in a small shaper...

    sw
    "we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)

    steve

  20. #90
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Time for a few pictures. Some friends were over and we were reorganizing the shop in general and got a few pictures of the whole boat with everything mocked up in its place.

    From the rear, swing back cooler seat, console, front cooler seat (there is a cushion that will go on it). Also, the helm will be attached on the vertical face where you see the hole. It is just laying on top in this pic.




    From the front, Cooler Seat, Console (note access panel), swing back cooler seat.



    It is good to step back and see the whole thing once in a while.

    Now back to work on the list of things to do...
    Last edited by shuffjb; 03-10-2017 at 07:15 AM. Reason: fix picture links

  21. #91
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    You must be getting pretty excited. I know I would be. Where are you finding the swing-back cooler seats and cushions?

  22. #92
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Bill,

    Yes it is exciting to be close to the finish line.

    For what it is worth, I sort of went through a debate on this:
    Buy cooler seats or build swing back seat and put cooler under it. I figured the buy option would get me on the water sooner. I had the room in my budget, so decided to save my building energy for other parts of the boat.

    The Swing Back Cooler seat came from Amazon. I have also seen similar at Jamestown and West Marine. Here is the link for the one I got from amazon:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...oop_bw_c_x_1_w

    The Cooler cushion I got from Speciatly Marine, but there are other choices from West Marine and Bass Pro and others.

    http://www.specialtymarine.com/MARIN...S-OW-p333.html

    They have them in several sizes. I got the one that fits a 54 qt Igloo Marine cooler and also bought the Cooler from Walmart.

    I was trying to stay with a front cooler that was near the width of my console.

    Hope this helps.

    John

  23. #93
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Great work would love to se more pics as she comes along.

  24. #94
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    John, at that price, I hope it proves durable and UV resistant as promised. Looks really comfortable.

  25. #95
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    GordC: Thanks for the kind words. I will keep posting until the splash, so no worries there.

    Bill: You and me both. The reviews I have read say it should last.

    John

  26. #96
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Scarfing.

    For my rub rails and possibly inner trim, I need some long boards and only have 5 footers, so scarfing is in order. Everything I read says 12 to 1 is the best ratio for strength and I am advised to scarf and glue first and fit the boards as one long piece.

    I started out thinking simple hand made cuts would get the job done, but the more I looked at trying to follow the 12 to 1 line on a 3/4 inch board, the more I wanted a jig. There are several good examples on the forum, so I looked at them and came up with mine. I am staying with loose clamps rather than the nifty attached clamps I have seen on some jigs. The base is 3/4 ply, the runner to slide in the slot on the table saw is poly cutting board material cut from a cheap Walmart cutting board. The fence is a 1x2 laid out so that it is 12 to 1, then screwed and glued to the ply.

    I used a straight and square edge of the ply and laid out the 12 to 1. Next I glued and screwed the fence. Then I placed the jig straight edge against the blade and marked where the runner channel in the table saw was. Then I marked and attached the cutting board runner (1/2 inch strips). The piece is big enough that I can control it without handles and keep may hands far away from the blade.

    Here are some pics for reference:

    Right after cutting a scarf:





    Runners on the bottom:



    Fence and jig against the blade. You can see that I moved the fence forward and back a few times by all the different pencil lines. I was finding the right depth front to back to make sure the whole scarf was done in the first 1/3 of the jig so the clamps did not have to pass the blade.



    Ok, pictures working now.
    Last edited by shuffjb; 03-12-2017 at 05:04 PM. Reason: fix picture links

  27. #97
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    suggestion

    when figuring the lengths of each component after the scarfing is done try to figure where the metalic fasteners will need to be so they look nice

    scarf on top of wax'd paper on a wooden surface

    place at least 2 LTN's(little tiny nails/sprigs) in each piece as you glue each 2 pieces together to prevent the parts from slipping out of alignment

    mechanically maintaining alignment is critical for fiddy bits like these

    for some reason simple clamping frequently isn't enough ;-(

    btw, NICE JIG, well thought out/executed

    sw
    "we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)

    steve

  28. #98
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Steve,

    Thanks for the tips and the kind words.

    I seem to have fixed the picture links, so it is all there now.

    John

  29. #99
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Long overdue updates
    Well, it is officially a 2+ year build. Lots of travel and family activities have taken priority over boat building, but some progress none the less.

    I find that the parts of the build where the plans do not specify what to do are the most time consuming. Days of design thought, research and prototyping followed by building one or 2 prototypes and then the final version. This is not like building Ikea furniture. Not a complaint, just an observation. Anyway, enough excuses, on to progress photos such as they are.


    March 2017:
    I decided to beef up the transom in the middle so I added an extra piece of 3/4 ply and some 10 oz. cloth there.



    April 2017:
    First piece of dynel-as-nonskid laid in the forward section.



    Trimmed, miller time





    Laminated a replacement transom insert for Jon's (son in law) pontoon boat. The one that was in there did not even seem to have any paint, much less glass on it. This one has both and should last a while. Jon and I trimmed it to final shape and size and installed it.

    July 2017:
    Crossing over the 2 year mark.
    I decided the next thing would be to paint the hull. The bottom is already done in graphite, so if I get the topside paint on, big visible progress. I will be using Pettit Easypoxy, a one part paint. So for the next week or so, it was sand, fill, sand until I had a fair and smooth surface at 80 grit. Then I sanded to 120 grit. I hesitated at this point, since the rubrails were not on yet, I was concerned that the rubrail process would ruin the finish, so progress, but not so visible. At least I can run my hand over the hull and marvel at the smooth surface.

    August 2017:
    Trailer purchased: Continental C717 with jack stand and rear guides.

    September 2017:
    Paint. I decided to dive into painting since I have the paint and primer. At least someting will get be getting done. I figured I would learn on the inside first, so why not prime the inside of the hull. Well, that means sand, fill, sand to 120 grit just like the outside.I opened the primer and thinned it as suggested. Did my best roll and tip and it did not look terrible. In the process I realized that the dynel-as-nonskid and several other inside finishing steps should probably be done first. So hit the pause button on painting again.

    October 2017:
    Cleats and hardware are one of those things that are left as an exercise for the builder. I have had several sailboats and rented many power boats and always just dealt with the cleats that were given to me, so I didn't have a clue where to start. Looked at lots of boats and boat pictures and finally settled on a plan.
    I will end up with 2 cleats in the aft corners, 2 cleats near midship and a bollard on the foredeck with 2 chocks to minimize chafing.

    Here is a shot of the foredeck and bollard placement plan.



    November 2017:
    In Florida, boats under 16 ft. are not required to have an inspection, so I finally just filled out the paperwork and headed to the local tax collectors office and registered her. It feels wierd to have a sticker even though she is not in the water yet.

    Prototype of the dynel-as-nonskid on the side decks.




    Rub Rails. Here is another one that has been kicking around in my brain for most of a year. I planned on using Ipe wood and even built the scarfing jig and cut some scarfs. Two things convinced me to change course. First, the stuff does not bend well at all. I despaired of getting the compound curve I needed. Second, the Ipe would create another finish process that I don't have at the moment, varnish. Seems like a small thing, but I am ready to be done and on the water. If I just make painted rub rails and add a silicone bumper on the outside, then the process is that much simpler. I can use screws to clamp it in place and just fill the holes before painting. Just one man's choice on what works for his build.

    So, off to the box store and pick up some radiatta pine boards. They sell under the brand name Claymark and are from farmed pine in New Zealand. It is straight and true right off the shelf and easy to work. Since I am covering it with glass and resin, I don't care so much if it is rot resistant. I used my scarfing jig to cut the scarfs. Then thickened epoxy and a couple screws and bingo, 2 17 ft rubrails.



    Attaching the rails was still a bit of a challenge, but easier than the Ipe would have been.



    Next day after the epoxy was cured I used the 1/2" roundover bit in the router to radius the outside and inside edges.

    That left me with the bow and rear corners to figure out. I decided to use a rub rail product from Tesslimare. There is a flexible plastic rail that you screw down and then you fit a soft radiused PVC material on the outside. The minimum bend radius for the plastic rail is 2", so I needed to round off the bow and rear corners to that radius. I used a roll of masking tape to get the radius and my razor saw to rough cut. Then shurform and sander to bring it in. I will post pictures when I put on the Tessilmare

    continued...
    Last edited by shuffjb; 01-08-2018 at 12:41 AM.

  30. #100
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    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    December 2017:
    With the woodwork done on rubrails, etc, time to glass the upper decks. I used 6 oz.



    Couple of coats of resin to fill the weave and ready for dynel-as-nonskid. This is another one of those things that I probably spent way too much time thinking about.

    Thanks to deke for his fine Pathfinder build thread http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...thfinder+build I got lots of good ideas there and a good write-up of
    dynel-as-nonskid
    .

    I finally ended up with a pattern similar to what I have seen on flats and other fishing boats. Sections of nonskid with smooth areas in between. Anyway, taped off the sections to receive dynel.

    20171218_144509.jpg

    Wet out the dynel and using tips I got from deke, I trimmed after it had jelled but before it was fully cured.

    Now cured, here is the finished product.

    20171219_102943.jpg

    Clearing the boat shop for the holidays, so that may be all that gets done before next year.

    John

  31. #101
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    17

    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Looking good John. I canít wait to see you get it in he water. My LYSS is getting close too. Iíll be putting a motor, electrical, and hardware on in he next week or two. It looks like we have the same taste in consoles and hardware. I ended up with the same bollard from amazon. Progress pics are at sandbarboats.blogspot.com
    Paul

  32. #102
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Lakeland, Florida
    Posts
    108

    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Thanks Paul, the interior finishing is a challenge, but I hopefully have ordered my last 2 yards of dynel. Your boat looks to be coming along well, I am impressed with your joinery and finishing. I will be happier once mine is in the water. I have had all the building fun I want . Latest goal is splash in January (this year ). If the weather and paint gods smile, I will get there.

    John

  33. #103
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    11

    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Great progress! I'm wondering what you think of the butt blocks for joining the sides. How fair are the curves?

  34. #104
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Lakeland, Florida
    Posts
    108

    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    ririzarry, Thanks for the kind words. The butt blocks produced a fair curve, no step or knuckle at the joint. Look back at post 90 above. The only way you can find the joint on the outside is that you can see the screw holes and the joint. When I run my hand down the side, it is hard to tell where the joint is by feel.

    John

  35. #105
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    11

    Default Re: LYS Build Plans #582

    Thanks for the feedback. I'm at the "do I scarf or do I butt joint" step in a build so I was curious. I've read all the "scarfs are easy" posts but they still make me a bit nervous.

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