Building a 10 ft Dinghy (#127; Gartside)

[Helder0906]

Today we riveted the garboard on both sides. I used Simson MSR BC to make sure the hull would be okay and water tight for the next 50 years.

Here are some pictures

rear view with garboard mounted

front view from mounted garboard

rivetted garboard detail from stem

riveted garboard detail from stem right side

riveted garboard detail from transom

It was fun to do

Although I planned to do only the rivets and later the roves, I noticed that quit some putty (Simson) was pressed out when puting the roves on. So I continued before the putty had the opportunity to harden.

[Helder0906]

Next step was to steam the second plank in place. From the garboard I learned to do the steaming previous to the final fitting. It is much easier to fit a plank that is twisted already and can be put in place without a lot of effort.

detail from steamed second planking

detail amidships from second steamed plank

[Helder0906]

Nice to work with larch for the planking.

[Helder0906]

I will try to explane some more on how I made the rabbet in front of th planks and after.

The overlap between two planks is 2 times the plank thickness.

The first plank (garboard) fits in the rabbet of the keel and stem. No more rabbet needed at this side. On the other side a rabbet is made, I used 25 cm for all rabbets in the planking with an overlap of 17 mm (10 time the overlap between the planks minimum) The rabbet starts from the 25 cm point to the end of the plank. At the start no rabbet; at the end of this under laying plank a rabbet is planed at the outside with 2/3 dept at the inner side and 3/3 dept at he outer side ( null remaining plank...)

The second, overlaying plank has the mirroring view. At the start; 25 cm from the end nothing... a bevel, no rabbet is planed at the inner side of the plank coming to 1/3 of the planking at the end.

The other side of second plank is planed with the rabbet as the garboard. Take care to plane the right side (inner and outer side) The rabbet is planed on the outer side; The next plank stays strong and encloses the rabbet; to keep a strong hull.

I used a small block clamped to the rabbet plane; to have a strong edged rabbet. I do not have a rabbet plane where the width of the rabbet is controlled with a side rail.

Are pictures / drawings needed to make it more clear?

Regards, Christiaan

[Matti]

One trick is cut the rabbet line with saw, then it is easy to plane.

You are working in warm, maybe central heated shop?
When planking is ready to framing, you must take care to have proper planking moisture before framing, specially because you have putty between planks, that prevent any movement on plank seams.
I am saying; do not frame too dry boat!
How I know that, you can quess.

The right moisture for your boat you have to ask local professionals.

Matti

[Helder0906]

Thanks Matti. for following my build and helping me
I will try to use my saw to make the rabbet line and then plane it.

The shop I am working is relatively moist. 80-90% at the moment. We have some heating to keep the frost out. Last week we worked with hats on :-) I do not use putty between the planks; I use it at the stem and transom. The planks it self do not get putty, Just rivets/roves. In the final finish of the boat, I will make a small strip with putty where the overlap ends. Nevertheless the tip is very worthy. I can feel the nasty experience you must have had. And will ask a boat building school nearby.

[Matti]

That will be OK, relativ. moist should be over 60 or so, on picture the shop looks very warm and dry.
Old saying; wise man learn from others mistake

[Helder0906]

Friday we steamed the third plank for the second time. I noticed that in the steaming the first time, I did not notice that the plank curve changed considerably. On second thought this happened with the second plank as well. The second plank we altered, to fit as best as was possible, given the problems of the changed measurements. This time I notice the cause and changed the curve back with the second steaming. To day I fitted the left side of the second plank. Resteaming worked!

Some pictures.

detail of meauring the plank curve

steaming third plank in place right side

steaming third plank rear end in place

another plank roufly cut with the band saw

the set up of the band saw to split the planed plank in two; this way we create the left and right plank in one go. And it is much more efficient in the use of wood. The raw plank thickness is 27 mm. The plank size in use is only 8,5 mm. Bij planing the raw plank to 23-24 mm. We manage to split the plank in two. Easy going on the band saw is needed. And keeping the gap created by sawing a little open to prevent the band saw to slip. It is not always a success but still better than having to use a double amount of stock.

[Helder0906]

Last week I fitted the fourth plank. It is noticeable that my experience in planking is growing. The result is improving. And with less effort. The most difficult part was to get a good curved plank that fitted without to much of steaming. And perhaps more important, to keep the shape when steaming. With the first planks, we overlooked the fact that when steaming, not only twist and curve could be given; the curve in the plank, given in 2D, when taking the size from the spiling batten; can be altered when the wood is warm and soft.

Pictures from the result



fourth plank rivetted



fourth plank rivetted rear view



detail of stem with fourth plank rivetted

[Helder0906]

In the meantime I fitted the next two planks. The seventh plank in steamed in place. An experiment with the seventh plank worked out well. I made a long plastic bag from garbage bags and duck tape to steam the plank. This way I could steam a larger part at once. I hoped to realize that the plank when clamped could be altered in shape over a longer part without creating bumps at the spot that was less warm. As I have lumber from app. 20 cm wide and the curve the planks need is a more than expected in the middle planks, I tried the steaming to give the planks some more curve and thus make it possible to use the wood. Nice!

I did find out though that the plastic is a little bit thin for this work. Advise is to get some what thicker material at the shop.

Some pictures. It starts looking like a boat.

fifth plank fitted rear view

detail of hull so far, five planks fitted

7th plank steamed in place side view. It starts looking like a boat!

[trango]

Good work!
For plastic, I think that rolls used for kitchen vacuum packing machines would be perfect. The rolls are actually long bottomless tubes made for heat-sealing in to any size. The plastic is thick and should easily withstand high temperatures.

/Fredrik

[mattycoops43]

Loving following this build. thank you for sharing with us! I am doing a repair/restoration on an enterprise dinghy in the uk.

[Matti]

" As I have lumber from app. 20 cm wide and the curve the planks need is a more than expected in the middle planks, I tried the steaming to give the planks some more curve and thus make it possible to use the wood."

I know this is too late.
To avoid to have too curve upper planks, you should use no or almost no taper on four first planks.
Your second plank has quite big taper.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32496642/soutuvene.JPG
As you can see four lower planks rise high on stem, then upper planks are almost straight.
Trick widely used here.
Maybe someone feels that different width on planks ends on stem looks ugly but when you know the reason, it looks much better.

[Helder0906]

Hi Trango,
Good idea to use vacuum plastic on roll. I will try to get some at the local butcher.

Matti, Thanks for sharing the local insight for lining off to have more straight planking. It is too late for this project. Never too late for learning.

Regards, Christiaan

[DoctorB]

I'm not sure if these folks ship internationally, or if it's worth the effort, but uline is a great supplier of plastic tube stock that works well for steaming in place
http://m.uline.com/h5/r/www.uline.co...43/Poly-Tubing

[jstarboats]

She shore is coming together well keep up the good work at this rate you will be finishing before me.

[Helder0906]

Matty, Do you have a thread where you post the restoration?
Regards, Christiaan

[Helder0906]

J Stabr /> I loved to read your progress on your dinghy.

[mattycoops43]

Matty, Do you have a thread where you post the restoration?
Regards, Christiaan

Hi Christian, here is what I am doing

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...-needed-please

Matt

[Helder0906]

Last three weeks I have work on the last planks. The last plank is work in progress.



Heres a picture of the last plank before fairing the shape



And after the fairing. Plank is ready to be fitted. I want to make a beam on the plank. The router bit is not yet delivered. So I will start with something else to do next days.

[Helder0906]

Some trouble I had was with the last planks, where the planks come flush on the transom, using a beveled rabbet.

The curve in the transom was so strong there, that it was difficult to have the smooth plank to plank fitting without having to adjust the transom to heavily. And when it first occurred, I had already planed the bevels, leaving a gap between the two planks. Next pictures shows some of the trouble,....



The gap... Luckily I use PU putty....

With the last two planks; plank 8 and 9 out of 10; I altered the rabbet, to get less gap. I couldn't think of a solution without having some what less flush fitted planks, though... And still quit difficult fitting

[Helder0906]

As the hull is almost done, The next step comes in sight. Turning the hull; fitting the center board casing and steaming and rivetting the frames. Before doing so, I would like advise on the varnish system to use. I would like to put the stuff on before fitting the frames and on the inside of the casing to. It it hard to get the stuff applied after mounting.

The discussion on this forum makes it difficult. From what I understand: Use epoxy and a two component varnish when a boat is build in Ply. I use massif wood (White oak and larch) As a matter of fact I ordered epoxy and DD coat (varnish) I wonder it is best to try and return these; and to by a one component varnish, like epivarnish. What problems are to expect in the long term when I use epoxy and PU varnish instead?

I hope you can be of help.

Regards, Christiaan

[Helder0906]

I decided to go for an epoxied hull. Unfortunately not much help from you guys...

The one I asked for advise here in the Netherlands where not very outspoken, although more in favor for use of an traditional varnish. A funny thing happened when I contacted Epifarnes, A main varnish brand in the Netherlands, to inform me on the total system to use. They advised me to use epoxy instead. The main reasons: The boat is new and made in dry conditions and out of dried wood (moisture less than 12%) Use of epoxy will seal the boat in and conserve it the beast way. Use of 4-5 layers of epoxy advised. The first of them with extra long pot life and warm (and there fore more fluid) That way the wood will absorb the epoxy best. The layers should be applied one after another, not drying complete, no sanding in between. After the last layer sorrow drying is necessary. Than sanding; than a PU based transparent 2 component 'varnish' to give the whole a UV resistant coating. Specifically, The man said: use epoxy on both sides to have it work. Inside and outside. Other wise it might give problems when the would attracts moisture on the inside. On the parts under the waterline, I will apply two layers of epoxy primer (white) with some red color to have a light pink color as a result. (Girls boat, remember )

I am very curious whether it will work. I am confident it will.

Any comments?

[Helder0906]

The last days I finished the last plank. I was waiting for a router bit to create a bead. A nice detail on the last plank, the inner gunwhale and seat riser.

detail of router bit to create the bead

detail of bead in gunwhale plank

It was quit critical to lead the plank over the router table (long side up) A few small repairs had to be made, small enough not to draw attention to.

[Helder0906]

Yesterday the final planks where fitted. What a beauty After the first plank was done, I took coffee and sat for fifteen minutes, Just enjoying the beautiful lines.

end result of the planking; love...

end result of the planking

end result of the planking front side. Thanks to Paul Gartside for the lovely lines.

[MoritzSchwarzer]

Lovely indeed! Nice job. Thanks for taking the time to post.

[Falcon1]

Beautiful boat! On my plywood boat, I coated the outside with one coat of epoxy, washed off the amine blush (important) then two coats of primer and two coats of Brightsides one-part polyurethane paint. No problems so far. I did coat the bottom planks on the inside as well to really seal them. This protects against any rain or condensation or seawater that might collect there.

The advice you got seems like too much epoxy to me, especially if you are going to prime and paint. Traditional boats had no epoxy. But I'm no expert. Hopefully someone will come along to advise.

Best of luck.

Mike

[Peerie Maa]

As the hull is almost done, The next step comes in sight. Turning the hull; fitting the center board casing and steaming and rivetting the frames. Before doing so, I would like advise on the varnish system to use. I would like to put the stuff on before fitting the frames and on the inside of the casing to. It it hard to get the stuff applied after mounting.

The discussion on this forum makes it difficult. From what I understand: Use epoxy and a two component varnish when a boat is build in Ply. I use massif wood (White oak and larch) As a matter of fact I ordered epoxy and DD coat (varnish) I wonder it is best to try and return these; and to by a one component varnish, like epivarnish. What problems are to expect in the long term when I use epoxy and PU varnish instead?

I hope you can be of help.

Regards, Christiaan

I really like International Universal Clear Primer. As it is clear you can varnish or paint over it.
http://www.yachtpaint.com/MPYACMData...Y+20141215.pdf

[Helder0906]

Today I build a base to support the boat when turned. And turned the boat. Very nice. Pictures will follow.

[Helder0906]

Here he promised pictures. The nice sheer comes out properly. And the elegance of the heart shaped transom.

[timcooke]

Gorgeous!

[Rigadog]

Bravo!

[timo4352]

Really nice. Keep it coming.

[Mike J]

Boy that's pretty! Great job and thank for sharing.

If I ever build real lapstrake I'm going to use this thread as a reference.

Mike

[Falcon1]

Wow, that is a gorgeous hull. Kudos to you and Mr. Gartside.