Don'w want to call it foul weather gear, that might be more extreme than we would do, but what sort of rain gear should I consider. My PVC coated nylon shell gets as wet inside from persperation as it does on the outside from precipitation. On the other hand a $100 plus rain coat seems extreme.
--Norm
Don'w want to call it foul weather gear, that might be more extreme than we would do, but what sort of rain gear should I consider. My PVC coated nylon shell gets as wet inside from persperation as it does on the outside from precipitation. On the other hand a $100 plus rain coat seems extreme.
--Norm
Don'w want to call it foul weather gear, that might be more extreme than we would do, but what sort of rain gear should I consider. My PVC coated nylon shell gets as wet inside from persperation as it does on the outside from precipitation. On the other hand a $100 plus rain coat seems extreme.
--Norm
Senior Member
If you want to get wet from the inside in REALLY salty style get a set of Jomacs - used by commercial fisherman and available in stylish North Atlantic green. For comfort go for the $110 boutique stuff.
Senior Member
If you want to get wet from the inside in REALLY salty style get a set of Jomacs - used by commercial fisherman and available in stylish North Atlantic green. For comfort go for the $110 boutique stuff.
Senior Member
If you want to get wet from the inside in REALLY salty style get a set of Jomacs - used by commercial fisherman and available in stylish North Atlantic green. For comfort go for the $110 boutique stuff.
Member #919
Gortex.
I've heard good things lately about Columbia's OmniTech, but have not tried it.
There used to be a GoreTex rainshell at Cabela (their brand) for ~us$50 but I don't see it in the catalog; it may have been an in-store special.
Member #919
Gortex.
I've heard good things lately about Columbia's OmniTech, but have not tried it.
There used to be a GoreTex rainshell at Cabela (their brand) for ~us$50 but I don't see it in the catalog; it may have been an in-store special.
Member #919
Gortex.
I've heard good things lately about Columbia's OmniTech, but have not tried it.
There used to be a GoreTex rainshell at Cabela (their brand) for ~us$50 but I don't see it in the catalog; it may have been an in-store special.
Why not traditional garb to go with traditional boats? Lots of wool and... I don't even know, but sometimes you've got to love technology. I've found that the extra money for "fancy" gear results in tremendous increses in comfort... but of course only worth it for high use, but then it wears out faster and you have to get more.... and a sturdy wool sweater about four inches thick starts to sound good.... I mean you're going to get soaked either way so why not just go with it; avoid cotton and you might not even get hypothermia. sorry for ranting....
Why not traditional garb to go with traditional boats? Lots of wool and... I don't even know, but sometimes you've got to love technology. I've found that the extra money for "fancy" gear results in tremendous increses in comfort... but of course only worth it for high use, but then it wears out faster and you have to get more.... and a sturdy wool sweater about four inches thick starts to sound good.... I mean you're going to get soaked either way so why not just go with it; avoid cotton and you might not even get hypothermia. sorry for ranting....
Why not traditional garb to go with traditional boats? Lots of wool and... I don't even know, but sometimes you've got to love technology. I've found that the extra money for "fancy" gear results in tremendous increses in comfort... but of course only worth it for high use, but then it wears out faster and you have to get more.... and a sturdy wool sweater about four inches thick starts to sound good.... I mean you're going to get soaked either way so why not just go with it; avoid cotton and you might not even get hypothermia. sorry for ranting....
Senior Member
I like my Grunden's - basic PVC over cotton, but since I heat and sweat easily, I eventually sprang for (dare I admit) goretex henri lloyde. (Oh I feel so yuppie.) Cost me a week's pay for top and week's pay for bottom. (Let it never be said that we gummit workers are overpaid.) . . .
But I sail hard in adverse weather year round and it's worth it.
I also have a Mustang exposure-work suit that will give me about a hour's survival time in a winter immersion. Again, the way I live, a worthy investment.
I use the grundies when I'm out doing brutal dirty work and sometimes over the Mustang if it's mindlessly cold and wet, and use the HL for long wet watches.
Senior Member
I like my Grunden's - basic PVC over cotton, but since I heat and sweat easily, I eventually sprang for (dare I admit) goretex henri lloyde. (Oh I feel so yuppie.) Cost me a week's pay for top and week's pay for bottom. (Let it never be said that we gummit workers are overpaid.) . . .
But I sail hard in adverse weather year round and it's worth it.
I also have a Mustang exposure-work suit that will give me about a hour's survival time in a winter immersion. Again, the way I live, a worthy investment.
I use the grundies when I'm out doing brutal dirty work and sometimes over the Mustang if it's mindlessly cold and wet, and use the HL for long wet watches.
Senior Member
I like my Grunden's - basic PVC over cotton, but since I heat and sweat easily, I eventually sprang for (dare I admit) goretex henri lloyde. (Oh I feel so yuppie.) Cost me a week's pay for top and week's pay for bottom. (Let it never be said that we gummit workers are overpaid.) . . .
But I sail hard in adverse weather year round and it's worth it.
I also have a Mustang exposure-work suit that will give me about a hour's survival time in a winter immersion. Again, the way I live, a worthy investment.
I use the grundies when I'm out doing brutal dirty work and sometimes over the Mustang if it's mindlessly cold and wet, and use the HL for long wet watches.
Retro Member #1235
Given that you're a sweet-water boater, any Gortex should serve you well. We've got REI stuff, used it canoeing in the rain, and while I can't say as we stayed perfectly dry, we certainly weren't bathed in sweat. It is probably close to ten years old, certainly it hasn't had lots of heavy use, but seems to hold up OK.
Unlike the salt-water Gortex, this stuff is affordable.
[This message has been edited by Ed Harrow (edited 10-05-2001).]
Retro Member #1235
Given that you're a sweet-water boater, any Gortex should serve you well. We've got REI stuff, used it canoeing in the rain, and while I can't say as we stayed perfectly dry, we certainly weren't bathed in sweat. It is probably close to ten years old, certainly it hasn't had lots of heavy use, but seems to hold up OK.
Unlike the salt-water Gortex, this stuff is affordable.
[This message has been edited by Ed Harrow (edited 10-05-2001).]
Retro Member #1235
Given that you're a sweet-water boater, any Gortex should serve you well. We've got REI stuff, used it canoeing in the rain, and while I can't say as we stayed perfectly dry, we certainly weren't bathed in sweat. It is probably close to ten years old, certainly it hasn't had lots of heavy use, but seems to hold up OK.
Unlike the salt-water Gortex, this stuff is affordable.
[This message has been edited by Ed Harrow (edited 10-05-2001).]
Elite Invisible Member
Try this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42528
Or you can go with the issue cold weather Gore-tex rain jacket at $230 (paints extra).
http://www.uscav.com/shop/uscitemdet...tk_code=WA1197
Than there is a lightweight Gore-Tex jacket for only $130
http://www.uscav.com/shop/uscitemdet...tk_code=WA2455
Chad
Elite Invisible Member
Try this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42528
Or you can go with the issue cold weather Gore-tex rain jacket at $230 (paints extra).
http://www.uscav.com/shop/uscitemdet...tk_code=WA1197
Than there is a lightweight Gore-Tex jacket for only $130
http://www.uscav.com/shop/uscitemdet...tk_code=WA2455
Chad
Elite Invisible Member
Try this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42528
Or you can go with the issue cold weather Gore-tex rain jacket at $230 (paints extra).
http://www.uscav.com/shop/uscitemdet...tk_code=WA1197
Than there is a lightweight Gore-Tex jacket for only $130
http://www.uscav.com/shop/uscitemdet...tk_code=WA2455
Chad
Retro Member #1235
Yowsa Chad, thank you! I found a picture in the Harbor Frieght page that I need for a presentation!!! What one can do with Snag-it!
Retro Member #1235
Yowsa Chad, thank you! I found a picture in the Harbor Frieght page that I need for a presentation!!! What one can do with Snag-it!
Retro Member #1235
Yowsa Chad, thank you! I found a picture in the Harbor Frieght page that I need for a presentation!!! What one can do with Snag-it!
Elite Invisible Member
Oops made a mistake. That first link I gave is for a brad nailer. One of the guys here couldn't beleive I could get one that cheap. Cheap being the key word here.
Here is the link to a reasonably priced jacket at $90
http://www.uscav.com/shop/uscitemdet...tk_code=WA5233
Chad
Elite Invisible Member
Oops made a mistake. That first link I gave is for a brad nailer. One of the guys here couldn't beleive I could get one that cheap. Cheap being the key word here.
Here is the link to a reasonably priced jacket at $90
http://www.uscav.com/shop/uscitemdet...tk_code=WA5233
Chad
Elite Invisible Member
Oops made a mistake. That first link I gave is for a brad nailer. One of the guys here couldn't beleive I could get one that cheap. Cheap being the key word here.
Here is the link to a reasonably priced jacket at $90
http://www.uscav.com/shop/uscitemdet...tk_code=WA5233
Chad
Knight Errant
No doubt about it... Gore Tex. And if it's cold, polypropylene underneath. Anything else is just hypothermia waiting to happen.
Knight Errant
No doubt about it... Gore Tex. And if it's cold, polypropylene underneath. Anything else is just hypothermia waiting to happen.
Knight Errant
No doubt about it... Gore Tex. And if it's cold, polypropylene underneath. Anything else is just hypothermia waiting to happen.
Senior Senior Member
$35 Icelandinc commercial fisherman's foul weather gear. The Mustang suit is close by just in case. I was wearing regular underwear and "T" shirt, nerwegian mesh underwear, wool shirt/sweater, flannel lined jeans under this thing and I wuz still freezin' my fanny off...just north of Faeroe Islands in August. .....and the cashmere wool watch cap was the best investment that I ever made for a warm offshore headpiece.....would like a new one but haven't seen them advertised in the U.S. in years. Maybe I'll ask sweet thing for a mink cap this Christmas.
[This message has been edited by paladinsfo (edited 10-05-2001).]
Senior Senior Member
$35 Icelandinc commercial fisherman's foul weather gear. The Mustang suit is close by just in case. I was wearing regular underwear and "T" shirt, nerwegian mesh underwear, wool shirt/sweater, flannel lined jeans under this thing and I wuz still freezin' my fanny off...just north of Faeroe Islands in August. .....and the cashmere wool watch cap was the best investment that I ever made for a warm offshore headpiece.....would like a new one but haven't seen them advertised in the U.S. in years. Maybe I'll ask sweet thing for a mink cap this Christmas.
[This message has been edited by paladinsfo (edited 10-05-2001).]
Senior Senior Member
$35 Icelandinc commercial fisherman's foul weather gear. The Mustang suit is close by just in case. I was wearing regular underwear and "T" shirt, nerwegian mesh underwear, wool shirt/sweater, flannel lined jeans under this thing and I wuz still freezin' my fanny off...just north of Faeroe Islands in August. .....and the cashmere wool watch cap was the best investment that I ever made for a warm offshore headpiece.....would like a new one but haven't seen them advertised in the U.S. in years. Maybe I'll ask sweet thing for a mink cap this Christmas.
[This message has been edited by paladinsfo (edited 10-05-2001).]
Wood B. Good
It's important to note here that not all Gore-Tex garments are created equally. Anybody can buy the fabric (it's a laminate of the base nylon fabric and a stretched, microporous PTFE (teflon) membrane which may or may not have an inner layer of knit laminated fabric to protect the film). It is quite possible to take a chunk of this expensive fabric and build a really horrible excuse for a raincoat out of it.
The same is true for Ultrex and similar fabrics which use a special, baked polyurethane coating (the baking process causes tiny pores to form in the coating) instead of the PTFE membrane. Many manufacturers prefer these fabrics because they have very similar properties, but the roll of fabric doesn't have to be shipped all over the country to be coated and finished before they can start cutting it and they don't have to cut W.L. Gore in on the deal.
There were a tremendous number of early failures with both Gore-Tex and the other breathable/waterproof fabrics. Most of the original garments just wouldn't keep water out. After about 10-15 years of experimentation with fabric construction, seaming techniques and garment feature design, they've pretty well got the waterproof end of it nailed down - IF the manufacturer is willing to do what it takes to build the garment properly.
As far as Gore-Tex goes, the best garments - and the only ones Gore will guarantee to be waterproof, are those built to Gore's manufacturing specifications. They generally have a hang tag that says so. Otherwise, Gore may warranty the fabric to be waterproof, but NOT THE GARMENT and it's important to know which one you're buying. Naturally, these premium-grade garments are the higher priced ones, but the price difference is not just because of the brand name or the fact that it has a lot of fancy do-dads on it, much of it is the construction.
For example: the Ultrex jacket that Chad posted above may or may not be a good deal. The Fabric meets Mil Specs (they blow water through it under pressure to determine the fabric's ability to keep it out) but they don't tell you much about the construction. From the picture, it looks like they've taped the seams to prevent leakage, but you want to be sure about things like that before you buy one. I'd read the tags, the warranty, and look the salesperson right in the eye and ask "If this thing leaks, can I return it and get one that doesn't or a refund? - because if I can't I'm not buying it."
There is also a lot of confusion about the breathability aspect of these garments. No one can promise you that you won't sweat or get steamy inside them. If they do, they're lying or just don't know their product. Yes, these fabrics breathe - but not very much. It is quite possible to generate enough steam inside from exertion or from being a little too warm, that those little high-tech micro-pores can't let it out as fast as you produce it.
Being comfortable inside is as much a matter of venting the garment (before you start to sweat) and wearing the right stuff, in the right amounts under it, to control temperature. Rain and spray running down the outside of the garment takes heat away from your body. If you don't have adequate insulation you feel damp and cold - whether the jacket leaks or not. On the other hand, if you're working hard enough, or it's warm enough that you wouldn't normally wear a jacket, it's gonna get steamy inside any of them - regardless of what the tag claims.
The high-end manufacturers have a few tricks that help here. They use lining fabrics that wick and disperse moisture throughout the garment and away from you. Some are bonded to the laminate, some hang free. They don't completely solve the problem, remove the moisture or increase breathability, but they make you feel more comfortable. The jacket above has a nylon taffeta lining. It's strong, inexpensive, wears well, looks good and slides-on easily over clothing - but it's one of the worst possible fabrics to have up against your skin or a thin shirt in humid conditions. It's water repellent. The moisture's not going to sit on it, it's going to sit on you!
Surprisingly, when both are built well, there isn't a whole lot of comfort difference between high-end breathable garments and those made with non-breathable coatings. I sold backpacker's raingear and foul weather gear for over 20 years and have a whole closet full of it. For sailing and kayaking, I generally don't use Gore-Tex, I use the high-end non-breathable stuff. It's absolutely waterproof and I don't think it's any steamier than my Gore-Tex.
For mid priced rain gear, you might get more for your money going to something non-breathable, like the West Marine Line, than trying to find bargain priced Gore-Tex. If you also want to use the jacket as a windbreaker (when you're not getting wet) one of the breathable fabrics is generally a better bet and they even breathe better when they're not wet on the outside.
Also, all of thes fabrics are treated on the outside with a fluorocarbon water repellant. It helps make the water run off the nylon before it even gets to the membrane or into the seams. It's important to maintain it and replenish it from time to time. If you look at the washing instructions, the last item is to iron it as needed. This is not to remove wrinkles from your raincoat, it reactivates the water repellency of the fluorocarbon stuff. If you don't feel safe about putting an iron on your nylon jacket, you can spray it every couple years with 303 Fabric-Gard (not Scotchguard, Rain Ban or other silicone products). The 303 stuff is Fluorocarbon (It's also the proper stuff for your Sunbrella boom covers, etc.) Keeping as much water as possible from even getting through to the membrane inside your jacket will make it work even better.
Sorry this is so long, but this thread has been bugging me for two days and I've been biting my tongue - too many quick generalizations and not enough facts.
T.E.B.
Wood B. Good
It's important to note here that not all Gore-Tex garments are created equally. Anybody can buy the fabric (it's a laminate of the base nylon fabric and a stretched, microporous PTFE (teflon) membrane which may or may not have an inner layer of knit laminated fabric to protect the film). It is quite possible to take a chunk of this expensive fabric and build a really horrible excuse for a raincoat out of it.
The same is true for Ultrex and similar fabrics which use a special, baked polyurethane coating (the baking process causes tiny pores to form in the coating) instead of the PTFE membrane. Many manufacturers prefer these fabrics because they have very similar properties, but the roll of fabric doesn't have to be shipped all over the country to be coated and finished before they can start cutting it and they don't have to cut W.L. Gore in on the deal.
There were a tremendous number of early failures with both Gore-Tex and the other breathable/waterproof fabrics. Most of the original garments just wouldn't keep water out. After about 10-15 years of experimentation with fabric construction, seaming techniques and garment feature design, they've pretty well got the waterproof end of it nailed down - IF the manufacturer is willing to do what it takes to build the garment properly.
As far as Gore-Tex goes, the best garments - and the only ones Gore will guarantee to be waterproof, are those built to Gore's manufacturing specifications. They generally have a hang tag that says so. Otherwise, Gore may warranty the fabric to be waterproof, but NOT THE GARMENT and it's important to know which one you're buying. Naturally, these premium-grade garments are the higher priced ones, but the price difference is not just because of the brand name or the fact that it has a lot of fancy do-dads on it, much of it is the construction.
For example: the Ultrex jacket that Chad posted above may or may not be a good deal. The Fabric meets Mil Specs (they blow water through it under pressure to determine the fabric's ability to keep it out) but they don't tell you much about the construction. From the picture, it looks like they've taped the seams to prevent leakage, but you want to be sure about things like that before you buy one. I'd read the tags, the warranty, and look the salesperson right in the eye and ask "If this thing leaks, can I return it and get one that doesn't or a refund? - because if I can't I'm not buying it."
There is also a lot of confusion about the breathability aspect of these garments. No one can promise you that you won't sweat or get steamy inside them. If they do, they're lying or just don't know their product. Yes, these fabrics breathe - but not very much. It is quite possible to generate enough steam inside from exertion or from being a little too warm, that those little high-tech micro-pores can't let it out as fast as you produce it.
Being comfortable inside is as much a matter of venting the garment (before you start to sweat) and wearing the right stuff, in the right amounts under it, to control temperature. Rain and spray running down the outside of the garment takes heat away from your body. If you don't have adequate insulation you feel damp and cold - whether the jacket leaks or not. On the other hand, if you're working hard enough, or it's warm enough that you wouldn't normally wear a jacket, it's gonna get steamy inside any of them - regardless of what the tag claims.
The high-end manufacturers have a few tricks that help here. They use lining fabrics that wick and disperse moisture throughout the garment and away from you. Some are bonded to the laminate, some hang free. They don't completely solve the problem, remove the moisture or increase breathability, but they make you feel more comfortable. The jacket above has a nylon taffeta lining. It's strong, inexpensive, wears well, looks good and slides-on easily over clothing - but it's one of the worst possible fabrics to have up against your skin or a thin shirt in humid conditions. It's water repellent. The moisture's not going to sit on it, it's going to sit on you!
Surprisingly, when both are built well, there isn't a whole lot of comfort difference between high-end breathable garments and those made with non-breathable coatings. I sold backpacker's raingear and foul weather gear for over 20 years and have a whole closet full of it. For sailing and kayaking, I generally don't use Gore-Tex, I use the high-end non-breathable stuff. It's absolutely waterproof and I don't think it's any steamier than my Gore-Tex.
For mid priced rain gear, you might get more for your money going to something non-breathable, like the West Marine Line, than trying to find bargain priced Gore-Tex. If you also want to use the jacket as a windbreaker (when you're not getting wet) one of the breathable fabrics is generally a better bet and they even breathe better when they're not wet on the outside.
Also, all of thes fabrics are treated on the outside with a fluorocarbon water repellant. It helps make the water run off the nylon before it even gets to the membrane or into the seams. It's important to maintain it and replenish it from time to time. If you look at the washing instructions, the last item is to iron it as needed. This is not to remove wrinkles from your raincoat, it reactivates the water repellency of the fluorocarbon stuff. If you don't feel safe about putting an iron on your nylon jacket, you can spray it every couple years with 303 Fabric-Gard (not Scotchguard, Rain Ban or other silicone products). The 303 stuff is Fluorocarbon (It's also the proper stuff for your Sunbrella boom covers, etc.) Keeping as much water as possible from even getting through to the membrane inside your jacket will make it work even better.
Sorry this is so long, but this thread has been bugging me for two days and I've been biting my tongue - too many quick generalizations and not enough facts.
T.E.B.
Wood B. Good
It's important to note here that not all Gore-Tex garments are created equally. Anybody can buy the fabric (it's a laminate of the base nylon fabric and a stretched, microporous PTFE (teflon) membrane which may or may not have an inner layer of knit laminated fabric to protect the film). It is quite possible to take a chunk of this expensive fabric and build a really horrible excuse for a raincoat out of it.
The same is true for Ultrex and similar fabrics which use a special, baked polyurethane coating (the baking process causes tiny pores to form in the coating) instead of the PTFE membrane. Many manufacturers prefer these fabrics because they have very similar properties, but the roll of fabric doesn't have to be shipped all over the country to be coated and finished before they can start cutting it and they don't have to cut W.L. Gore in on the deal.
There were a tremendous number of early failures with both Gore-Tex and the other breathable/waterproof fabrics. Most of the original garments just wouldn't keep water out. After about 10-15 years of experimentation with fabric construction, seaming techniques and garment feature design, they've pretty well got the waterproof end of it nailed down - IF the manufacturer is willing to do what it takes to build the garment properly.
As far as Gore-Tex goes, the best garments - and the only ones Gore will guarantee to be waterproof, are those built to Gore's manufacturing specifications. They generally have a hang tag that says so. Otherwise, Gore may warranty the fabric to be waterproof, but NOT THE GARMENT and it's important to know which one you're buying. Naturally, these premium-grade garments are the higher priced ones, but the price difference is not just because of the brand name or the fact that it has a lot of fancy do-dads on it, much of it is the construction.
For example: the Ultrex jacket that Chad posted above may or may not be a good deal. The Fabric meets Mil Specs (they blow water through it under pressure to determine the fabric's ability to keep it out) but they don't tell you much about the construction. From the picture, it looks like they've taped the seams to prevent leakage, but you want to be sure about things like that before you buy one. I'd read the tags, the warranty, and look the salesperson right in the eye and ask "If this thing leaks, can I return it and get one that doesn't or a refund? - because if I can't I'm not buying it."
There is also a lot of confusion about the breathability aspect of these garments. No one can promise you that you won't sweat or get steamy inside them. If they do, they're lying or just don't know their product. Yes, these fabrics breathe - but not very much. It is quite possible to generate enough steam inside from exertion or from being a little too warm, that those little high-tech micro-pores can't let it out as fast as you produce it.
Being comfortable inside is as much a matter of venting the garment (before you start to sweat) and wearing the right stuff, in the right amounts under it, to control temperature. Rain and spray running down the outside of the garment takes heat away from your body. If you don't have adequate insulation you feel damp and cold - whether the jacket leaks or not. On the other hand, if you're working hard enough, or it's warm enough that you wouldn't normally wear a jacket, it's gonna get steamy inside any of them - regardless of what the tag claims.
The high-end manufacturers have a few tricks that help here. They use lining fabrics that wick and disperse moisture throughout the garment and away from you. Some are bonded to the laminate, some hang free. They don't completely solve the problem, remove the moisture or increase breathability, but they make you feel more comfortable. The jacket above has a nylon taffeta lining. It's strong, inexpensive, wears well, looks good and slides-on easily over clothing - but it's one of the worst possible fabrics to have up against your skin or a thin shirt in humid conditions. It's water repellent. The moisture's not going to sit on it, it's going to sit on you!
Surprisingly, when both are built well, there isn't a whole lot of comfort difference between high-end breathable garments and those made with non-breathable coatings. I sold backpacker's raingear and foul weather gear for over 20 years and have a whole closet full of it. For sailing and kayaking, I generally don't use Gore-Tex, I use the high-end non-breathable stuff. It's absolutely waterproof and I don't think it's any steamier than my Gore-Tex.
For mid priced rain gear, you might get more for your money going to something non-breathable, like the West Marine Line, than trying to find bargain priced Gore-Tex. If you also want to use the jacket as a windbreaker (when you're not getting wet) one of the breathable fabrics is generally a better bet and they even breathe better when they're not wet on the outside.
Also, all of thes fabrics are treated on the outside with a fluorocarbon water repellant. It helps make the water run off the nylon before it even gets to the membrane or into the seams. It's important to maintain it and replenish it from time to time. If you look at the washing instructions, the last item is to iron it as needed. This is not to remove wrinkles from your raincoat, it reactivates the water repellency of the fluorocarbon stuff. If you don't feel safe about putting an iron on your nylon jacket, you can spray it every couple years with 303 Fabric-Gard (not Scotchguard, Rain Ban or other silicone products). The 303 stuff is Fluorocarbon (It's also the proper stuff for your Sunbrella boom covers, etc.) Keeping as much water as possible from even getting through to the membrane inside your jacket will make it work even better.
Sorry this is so long, but this thread has been bugging me for two days and I've been biting my tongue - too many quick generalizations and not enough facts.
T.E.B.
Senior Senior Member
Henri Lloyd makes good stuff.....
Senior Senior Member
Henri Lloyd makes good stuff.....
Senior Senior Member
Henri Lloyd makes good stuff.....
Thank you very much Todd. If ever the statement by the great California linguist turned polition, S.I.Hayakawa, "To say thank you is to limit one's expression of gratatude," is apporpriate it is now.
And thanks to all for stimulating Todd.
Best wishes.
--Norm
Thank you very much Todd. If ever the statement by the great California linguist turned polition, S.I.Hayakawa, "To say thank you is to limit one's expression of gratatude," is apporpriate it is now.
And thanks to all for stimulating Todd.
Best wishes.
--Norm
Thank you very much Todd. If ever the statement by the great California linguist turned polition, S.I.Hayakawa, "To say thank you is to limit one's expression of gratatude," is apporpriate it is now.
And thanks to all for stimulating Todd.
Best wishes.
--Norm
Knight Errant
Todd,
You mean you get what you pay for?
Knight Errant
Todd,
You mean you get what you pay for?
Knight Errant
Todd,
You mean you get what you pay for?
Wood B. Good
Aw shucks Norm, it was nothing. My head is filled with stuff like that - just ask my wife. She'll certainly tell you I'm full of it!
Don,
Usually you do. Surprise, surprise! Not that everybody needs to drop $400 to get a good raincoat, but if you do go high-end it might as well do the job properly. The one to really watch out for is the $250 copy of the $400 raincoat. Somewhere in there, something was left out of the design or construction and sooner or later - you're going to find out what it was.
Wood B. Good
Aw shucks Norm, it was nothing. My head is filled with stuff like that - just ask my wife. She'll certainly tell you I'm full of it!
Don,
Usually you do. Surprise, surprise! Not that everybody needs to drop $400 to get a good raincoat, but if you do go high-end it might as well do the job properly. The one to really watch out for is the $250 copy of the $400 raincoat. Somewhere in there, something was left out of the design or construction and sooner or later - you're going to find out what it was.
Wood B. Good
Aw shucks Norm, it was nothing. My head is filled with stuff like that - just ask my wife. She'll certainly tell you I'm full of it!
Don,
Usually you do. Surprise, surprise! Not that everybody needs to drop $400 to get a good raincoat, but if you do go high-end it might as well do the job properly. The one to really watch out for is the $250 copy of the $400 raincoat. Somewhere in there, something was left out of the design or construction and sooner or later - you're going to find out what it was.
Elite Invisible Member
Well Todd you make a lot of good points and seem to be knowledgable about Gore-Tex. All I know about it is from personal experiance.
I have an issue Gore-tex jacket that sheds water real good and keeps you fairly warm. In fact some folks say it is warmer than the field jacket. I also have the new issue Gore-tex wet weather suit and they work great also. Without seeing the product in hand and I can't tell for sure if those links are the actual issue items. If they are they are fantastic.
BTW I also have the new issue sleeping bag. It comes in three parts:
The sleeping bag
Cold weather insert
Gore-Tex outer cover
The price of the gore-tex cover is more than the price of the sleeping bag and the cold weather insert combine. I beleive it cost around $200 just for the cover. I really don't like this sleeping bag for anything other than cold weather. It is made from a nylon material and during warm weather it is like sleeping on a slip and slide. I much prefer the old cotton bags.
Chad
Elite Invisible Member
Well Todd you make a lot of good points and seem to be knowledgable about Gore-Tex. All I know about it is from personal experiance.
I have an issue Gore-tex jacket that sheds water real good and keeps you fairly warm. In fact some folks say it is warmer than the field jacket. I also have the new issue Gore-tex wet weather suit and they work great also. Without seeing the product in hand and I can't tell for sure if those links are the actual issue items. If they are they are fantastic.
BTW I also have the new issue sleeping bag. It comes in three parts:
The sleeping bag
Cold weather insert
Gore-Tex outer cover
The price of the gore-tex cover is more than the price of the sleeping bag and the cold weather insert combine. I beleive it cost around $200 just for the cover. I really don't like this sleeping bag for anything other than cold weather. It is made from a nylon material and during warm weather it is like sleeping on a slip and slide. I much prefer the old cotton bags.
Chad
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