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Thread: Argie 15 with standing lug

  1. #36
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Man.. cutting a hole in the bottom of your boat is a scarey thing. Measure, Dry fit, Measure again, String line to check alignment, measure, dry fit, remove, pray to all known Deities, chant a few Hare Krishna's,hold breath close eyes.... then CUT the Centerboard slot. Arrrgghh Very scarey. But, so far it looks pretty good.

  2. #37
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Centreboard casing and attached aft mid seat riser now glued and screwed into position. I then added the forward mid seat riser as can be seen.

  3. #38
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Quote Originally Posted by Fudzwollop View Post
    Man.. cutting a hole in the bottom of your boat is a scarey thing. Measure, Dry fit, Measure again, String line to check alignment, measure, dry fit, remove, pray to all known Deities, chant a few Hare Krishna's,hold breath close eyes.... then CUT the Centerboard slot. Arrrgghh Very scarey. But, so far it looks pretty good.

    I'm with you... forget "measure twice, cut once". It's more like: measure twice, then do it again. Then measure from a different reference point, twice, then again. check the plans... measure again. Start cutting... stop to measure one last time. Finish cutting. Measure it later to see if you screwed up.

  4. #39
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    I moved the forward seat riser forward to approximately where the new standing lug mast step will go. I'm kinda making this up as I go. Next will be the side stringers. I haven't bothered flipping it over yet and doing the outside hull. I might just go ahead and do the full length side seat risers first. I'm really enjoying this build. I'm a bit excited as it goes together and starts taking shape. I realised this morning that it could probably actually go in the water now and be paddled around - not that I am gonna do that, but it is a bit of a milestone when you realise that all these bits of ply have suddenly become a boat - of sorts.

  5. #40
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Side seat stringers now glued and screwed in and all bulkheads filleted and taped.


  6. #41
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Very nice work, Andrew.

  7. #42
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Quote Originally Posted by capefox View Post
    Very nice work, Andrew.
    Thankyou Mr Fox. You've been a wealth of knowledge and an inspiration. Did you ever end up taking anymore video? I could only find the one on Youtube. And I believe I'm your first subscriber. Have you started your next boat yet?

  8. #43
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Full length rear side seat tops measured and cut. I chose 350mm. The plans said 300mm. More buoyancy and less span across the middle to fill when I turn the whole thing into a giant Queen-size bed for camping out. I measured the distance between the rear seat forward riser (bulkhead) and middle seat rear riser (bulkhead) to be 1900mm. Then cut the ply across at that point. Then I laid the 1900mm piece of ply as close to the edge of the boat as I could, keeping it square to the bulkheads, and ran a line the length of the ply following the contour of the side. I started at the greatest gap and used that as my distance then using a piece of wood I held a pencil against it at that distance from the side while I ran the small piece of wood along the side trying hard to keep it square to the bulkheads. Then I cut that piece off, placed the ply back against the side of the boat where it will sit. Of course it fitted pretty good, then I did the same thing but this time at 350mm to get the seat top. Held a piece of wood with a pencil secured at 350mm and keeping it square to the bulkheads (mostly) I ran another line with the opposite end of the stick (not the pencil end) following the side of the boat. I was surprised to find when I placed that piece against the opposite side of the boat it wasn't exactly the same, So I had to do the outside edge all over again. This time it was only a small piece needing to be removed to fit it against the side of the boat as it was pretty close to the other side. Still I was surprised to find that my boat is NOT perfectly symmetrical. Nothing the human eye would see however. This all took less than an hour and doing it this way rather than cutting the seat tops off the plans means I get a perfect fit (well close anyways but a little bog will hide the gaps).

    Last edited by Fudzwollop; 07-11-2015 at 07:51 AM. Reason: Because when I reread my posts they sound like gibberish

  9. #44
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Just for fun and inspiration, I sat the middle and rear seat tops in place. Something I would do differently is the mid seat riser inspection ports. I put them in nice and centred either side, BUT once the side seat risers go in the inspection ports won't look nicely centred. Bad luck though, I ain't moving then now, practicality over aesthetics everytime for me and redoing them just ain't practical as I'm too lazy
    Last edited by Fudzwollop; 07-11-2015 at 05:25 PM.

  10. #45
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Quote Originally Posted by Fudzwollop View Post
    Still I was surprised to find that my boat is NOT perfectly symmetrical. Nothing the human eye would see however... and doing it this way rather than cutting the seat tops off the plans means I get a perfect fit (well close anyways but a little bog will hide the gaps).
    Stitch-and-glue boats are almost always a tiny bit asymmetrical because they are not made on frames or a jig. Therefore, your spiling of the seat tops instead of pre-cutting them from the plans was a good idea. Now you can spile in the fronts of the seats and the bulkheads/seat risers. The fit will be tight and neat.

  11. #46
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Cutting the side seats that way was really smart. I will follow your fine example when I get that far. Looking good.

  12. #47
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    So my sail has arrived Mr Bradshaw. It measures 9'9" along the foot, 16'2" at the Leech, 19'2" at the Head, and 6'9" at the Luff. Haha, I have a book called "Make Your Own Sails" and NOWHERE in the book is there a picture of a sail which labels all the parts of the sail it's talking about. Anyways, I hope my Aussie sail maker got the dimensions right, he said he had a little trouble making sense of it but worked it out in the end....did he? It seems ok to me.



    Here is the second question. Have a look at the reef points. I have laid a couple of tape measures along for comparison. The first reef point is nice and straight, but the second one is not. Why would that be? I want to check before confronting him and sounding dumber than I already probably sound.
    I know it's supposed to be angled as per your suggestion and I sent him through your diagram. But the reefs look straight on your diagram.
    Thoughts anyone???
    Last edited by Fudzwollop; 07-23-2015 at 10:53 PM.

  13. #48
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    I sent the sail maker the picture and too their credit this was their response. "Hi Andrew,
    This is our mistake,
    We normally do this on the second reefs allowing for sail bunching on larger boats.
    We will need to remake the sail to the reef to the correct height as per your diagram.
    Could you please return it and we will supply a new one ASAP.
    Kind Regards
    Russ and Luke"

    I told them I couldn't make them redo it for the sake of three grommets. I said I will drop in and they can just put three more in the right alignment (one is already correct) while I wait or I'll get someone closer to me to do it if they are happy to pay for it. Pretty sure three extra small grommet holes isn't going to effect my sailing speed much (especially considering how much my own inabilities already effect my speed).

  14. #49
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Installing the small nettle patches in a curve is not unusual, though it is normally a curve that sort of mirrors the foot shape, though usually not quite as deep of a curve. Patches are also frequently installed slightly below a straight line from reef tack to reef clew. When the nettles are tied around a boom it helps put a little slack in the system to take strain off of the small patches, and build-in a little bit of a shelf foot. On a loose-footed sail it doesn't make much difference whether they are straight or curved. Their job is simply to bundle up the excess cloth. Your second reef is a rather curious curve though, and I can't think of any reason why they would have installed it that way, or so much differently from the shape of their first reef. Since those little patches are just for bundling up excess Dacron, I doubt that you will get any sort of real performance problems from them, but normally a second reef would be straight or a shallow curve and would lie pretty close to the line shown by your tape.

  15. #50
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Finally got some more clear Hoop Pine so on went the rub rails. I wanted some strength there before flipping her over. The unsupported ply felt a little weak. Then I flipped her over ready to start the hull outside.



  16. #51
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Looking good and getting close.

  17. #52
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Thanks for continuing to post.

  18. #53
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Since I've just started on my center board I have a question. Did you incorporate any weight in the bottom of the board or will you have some way of tying the board in the down position?
    Thanks.

  19. #54
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Quote Originally Posted by Roy Morford View Post
    Since I've just started on my center board I have a question. Did you incorporate any weight in the bottom of the board or will you have some way of tying the board in the down position?
    Thanks.
    Hi Roy. Thanks for following along. The recommendation by Dudley Dix (designer) was to not have any weight but rather just use a bungy cord to hold it down. I am using the swing centre board as you are probably aware. Are you planning on the same? Do you have any pictures yet or a thread started?

    Cheers

  20. #55
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Hull is now fiberglassed with three coast of resin and I am gluing on the bottom runners. Also a picture of the seams tapped ad ready to fiberglass.

  21. #56
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Nice bottom Fudzwallop. I hope to be there soon.

  22. #57
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Looks like you might make it out on the water this summer at this rate.

  23. #58
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    So I bought a new $100 (cheapy) sander/polisher. Best thing I ever bought for boat building. With a 40grit, I can shape back anything in seconds. With a 180grit I can flatten out any runs or "standing up" tape just s quick. I LOVE this thing. It also has a 6 speed variable so I can back it off to go gently. So much more control then the brutal angle grinder, plus the bigger head means a better coverage and less unwanted biting in.

    I also sanded down the front of the runners for a better entry (less resistance).


    ...and now I am putting the skeg on

  24. #59
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Quote Originally Posted by capefox View Post
    Looks like you might make it out on the water this summer at this rate.
    That's the plan Mr Fox. As a teacher I get 6 weeks holiday at Christmas (which is summertime here in Australia) and I plan to be sailing for at least SIX WEEKS of it

  25. #60
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Looking really good but you're still moving too fast!!!! Will you be rounding the edges of the runners, glassing them or adding any other protection (brass, stainless, hdmp?).
    Last edited by Roy Morford; 11-01-2015 at 12:55 PM.

  26. #61
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Quote Originally Posted by Roy Morford View Post
    Looking really good but you're still moving too fast!!!! Will you be rounding the edges of the runners, glassing them or adding any other protection (brass, stainless, hdmp?).
    Hmmmm...haven't thought about that Roy. They are only pine so a bit of protection might be in order. What would you do? As far as rounding....not sure there either. Should I? What's the benefits? I figured not rounded would add (if ever so slightly) to lateral resistance.

  27. #62
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    What I did on my rowboat and what I will probably do on my Argie is to make the runners 3/4" wide and install a 1/2" brass strip (half oval is getting too expensive). Then plane or sand a small bevel on the outside of the strip so that, at the top (bottom I guess) it will be 1/2" and match up with the brass strip. I have a friend who did this but also glassed over the runners before installing the brass strip.

  28. #63
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    So, happy with things on the bottom I have flipped Him back over and now and I am continuing on the inside. I have been working on the side seats. I cut some 20 x 20 strips and followed one along the front edge of the curved seat top. Then I put plastic under that so the bottom piece (upright) would not stick to it when I epoxy it in. I set the strip back 6mm so the bottom seat panel will sit flush when I put the seat top back on later. The I bent the seat top to the desired shape with weight and a cross piece of wood put across the boat to get the two seat tops to match. when I was happy where it was sitting. I used a square to mark along the floor where the seat front will go. I marked every 200mm. Then I measured from that mark to the top of the seat. I used those measurements to loft the front seat panel. Of course I had to do similar to get the right top curve of the panel. I placed a straight edge from the two furtherest points of the seat top and used that to measure every 200mm to get the right curve along the top of the upright seat front. Then I glued the front panel to the seat top, well really to the 20mm x 20mm piece attached to the seat top and when it all set, I removed the seat top pulled away the plastic and the seat front sat nearly perfectly curved ready for the bulk heads. Then I started lofting the seat bulkheads, or support or whatever they are. I am going to make three separate water tight compartments under each side seat with access to each with a 100mm (4 inch) port hole/inspection hatch thingy.

    Last edited by Fudzwollop; 12-02-2015 at 10:57 AM.

  29. #64
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Arrrggghhhh! Just discovered that one of the screws I used to temporarily hole the first layer of the skeg on was glued over by the next layer. I thought I had pulled them all out after the glue died but discovered it sticking through the bottom when I flipped Argie over. As I wasn't leaving them in I only used some old galvanised screws I had, BUT I left one in accidently. Now I'll have to dig it out of my skeg I guess and patch the gap with goop. Can't lave it there it'll rust out.

  30. #65
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Your progress amazes me (and leaves me a little envious). Looking really good and making me think about whether or not to enclose the area under the side seats on my build. As for the missed screw, don't worry. As you say, you can dig it out and patch it with some epoxy goop and carry on. Nobody will ever know. Keep up the good work and keep posting.

  31. #66
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Thanks Roy. I want lots of bouyancy for peice of mind when I get adventurous plus dry places to store things wjen camping out.

  32. #67
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Quote Originally Posted by Fudzwollop View Post
    Arrrggghhhh! Just discovered that one of the screws I used to temporarily hole the first layer of the skeg on was glued over by the next layer. I thought I had pulled them all out after the glue died but discovered it sticking through the bottom when I flipped Argie over. As I wasn't leaving them in I only used some old galvanised screws I had, BUT I left one in accidently. Now I'll have to dig it out of my skeg I guess and patch the gap with goop. Can't lave it there it'll rust out.
    Plug cutter to remove the fastener, then glue in a plug with thickened epoxy. Some people think it's ok to bury hot dipped galvanized fasteners, but your fastener sounds like a cheaper electroplated kind.
    Last edited by capefox; 11-21-2015 at 10:54 PM.

  33. #68
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    So I installed the three dividers which not only divide the underseat into three separate compartments, they also are the seat supports. The idea of three separate compartments was that because we plan to use her for camping out we can put things in there for storage and still reach them. From the small 100mm hole we can reach all areas of each compartment. Ii guess another side benefit it they are separate water tight compartments in case of leakage or a puncture but that certainly wasn't the reason.



    I'm not sure whether I should bother with the front side seats. It will be problematic with the mast moved forward to accommodate the single boomless standing lug. As we are planning to dinghy cruise and camp out, it would mean more storage area for stuff. But I do like the piece of mind of lots of buoyancy as I like to be adventurous. Any thoughts?

  34. #69
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    Did you put the forward bulkhead in the position shown on the plans? I moved mine back to provide support for my mast (also lug rig) and so my forward compartment is much larger. I plan to install front seats but I'm still not sure if I'll fill them in to make storage/floatation compartments.

  35. #70
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    Default Re: Argie 15 with standing lug

    No Roy. Mine was moved forward to fit the mast where the single standing lug needs it to be. So my forward chamber is a lot smaller now.

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