The last two photos especially remind me of planking my file bottom . Since 45 deg. was the max angle of cut for my saw it was convenient to make the transition to butt joint when the bevel of the lapped planking got to that angle . This leaves plenty of room for the fastenings of the lap joint to the chine log (if the chine log's not too narrow ).
A typical File Bottom detail is a chine log that increases in width gradually as the dead rise increases going forward . This allows full bearing for the planking and keeps the fasteners clear of the increasingly long bevels of the lap joint.
It's great that such a build can happen in Brooklyn .
Last edited by Bill Perkins; 07-19-2015 at 07:09 AM.
Thanks for the comments. We also made a little gauge to plot the edges of the keel, so as to keep fasteners clear of the area that must be dubbed flat to land the keel on.
Keeping fasteners clear of the keel. This area gets flattened for the keel's land.
The two layers of planking, and the transition from lap to butt.
This shows the degree of twist required. Planks are now about 5-1/2" wide. Before fastening.
A view looking up inside the bow.
I could't figure out where all the goop was. Then I noticed you wrote you were dry fitting. Good idea.
This all looks like way too much fun Jim. Beautiful job.
We finished dry fitting the bow planks today. Start gluing them on tomorrow.
We wrestled the twist all the way to the bow.
Taping off all the bits we don't want epoxy slathered onto. Makes clean up easy.
Same thing on the planks. We taped off just inside the line of chine logs and sheer clamps.
It's a shame to have to take all those planks back off, but they will go back on a lot quicker, and more orderly with everything laid out and ready to go.
The starboard planks numbered and stacked, ready to go.
I'll be happy to get this boat buttoned up, but it has gone very well since pouring the footings for the strongback in January. We set the molds up in March, having to wait out some bitter cold.
Those pieces are fitting very nicely. How do you do it? Cut it oversize and then pare down? Paper patterns?
They are all parallel sided. There is a compound bevel at the chine. Measure with a bevel gauge, then plane the secondary bevel by eye by hand.
because of the twist, there is a hollow where the trailing edge of the next piece meets the leading edge of the first. Block plane right at the boat til it fits. There is solid backing behind all the seams because of the overlap, so it's easy to get the joints tight and filled with epoxy. We glued on a few planks today, hope to finish tomorrow.
I'm curious to see how you are going to finish this area...
You are going to have lots of exposed plywood edge there when it's trimmed up, no?
Or maybe I missed it and you are glassing the outside of the hull?
Really enjoying your build thread.
The two layers of planking, and the transition from lap to butt.
Hi Tim, the entire exterior is glassed. There won't be any exposed ply edges. The outer stem and keel go on first, then glass.
A milestone of sorts. We are all planked.
Here's the goop, chuck. Plenty of it.
All planked.now the work begins.
The outside's a little messy, but the inside is clean as a whistle. We've got lots of holes to plug. I'll be away for a couple of weeks, so it will be later in August before we have much else to show. Still hoping for a turn over in late September, or early October.
Yeah, that looks like what I was expecting.
Pretty shape, and nice work.
Chuck that would look great at the dock next to Mary Ellen.
Fight Entropy, build a wooden boat!
You've slipped off the front page! I'm giving ya a bump.
What are you guys planning on doing with the boat?
Last edited by chuckt; 08-02-2015 at 09:05 AM.
Thanks for the bump. It's the dog days. I've been away on a canoe trip in the Adirondacks, and going again to Shelter Is. this weekend. Hans and Patrick did the 'round Long Is. Race, so we have not done much work in a couple weeks. Chris and Howie plugged 300 holes, and I ground them all flush the other day, but forgot to take pics. We'll be back on it soon.
This boat will serve as support vessel for our club, mostly in sailing instruction and regatta stuff, but also as general safety boat. It will replace a little Boston Whaler we have now. She will live at the dock for 6 months of the year. I hope to run her a little further afield some, but we'll see.
More pics in a week or two. Thanks for looking!
Back to work on the boat. I got the bottom planking flushed with the chines. The temporary screw holes were filled previously, and I ground them down flush as well.
I also got the stem area flushed up in way of the outer stem. On this boat, the bottom planking is dubbed off flat to a width of 2.5" to land the keel. To do this I had to redefine the centerline down the length of the boat. I still had a mark at the transom and at the stem, so I set up a little jig 2.5" wide, with a centerline marked on it. I hung a laser from the steel door track above and behind the boat, and projected a laser line through the center points at both ends of the boat. I then moved my little jig down the length, marking the keel widths every 3 or 4 feet.
This is the jig.
And here's the laser.
I then used a straight edge to mark the keel widths down the length of the boat. I'm now planing down to the lines in preparation for hanging the keel.
I'm planning on making the keel and outer stem from tight grained fir that I have on hand. I think I will glass right over the keel and outer stem with biaxial tape before glassing the whole hull. I'll run a generous fillet at the keel to hull joint before taping. This boat will live at the dock for 6 months out of the year. Will the glass and bottom paint protect the fir keel adequately from borers? Opinions are welcome.
I haven't heard of marine borers chewing through glass.
Fight Entropy, build a wooden boat!
Nice job so far, Cricket.
Unfortunately, I got stuck since two weeks in a death valley kind of heat here with 42 and more degrees (C) in the workshop.
...and I always thought, Austria is mainly a cold country...
Hey Mr. WoodyB. I took a look at your blog again. I see you have some nice 2 part paint on there. Looks real good. It's been hot here too. Good slow hardener epoxy weather, but I imagine it's tough to paint in those temps. We'll likely paint with primer only before we flip the boat in the fall. There will be some fasteners to drive through the hull (into floors from underneath), and the sheer to trim down and fair before we finish paint. At any rate, the bottom paint won't go on til just before launching.
I plan to laminate the outer stem from some left over fir, and scarf up the keel timber this weekend, then it's on to fairing.
Did you use fiberglass cloth on your 18, or dynel or some such? Looks like glass. Anyway, nice boat.
Thanks for the compliment, Cricket. I used a 194 g/m2 Twill Weave Glass Cloth, followed by 3 layers of EP Primer above WL and 4 layers below WL. The paintjob is a spray application using Veneziani Gel Gloss Pro. I find their products really good to work with. Unfortunately, the light in my workshop is anything else but ideal for a good paintjob, therefore I found some kind of "foggy" spots where the colour was not wetted good enough. As soon as the temperatures reach a normal level again, I'll have to sand once more, install some more lights and then go for another layer of finish paint. You guys really seem to have a lot of fun together. Can't wait to see both our boats in action, finally.
Some progress today, and more tomorrow I hope. We planed the keel land on the boat, and scarfed up the outer keel timber, plus we glued up the outer stem timber. Most of the wood we used today was from a dumpster find a few years ago. Just looking for the right home. Tight grained D fir. I'll have close up pics later.
The outer stem blank.
Fir 2x's from a dumpster at my loading dock.
We did some shaping of keel and outer stem that we glued up yesterday. Didn't get as far along as I hoped, but we had a nice rain which sounds good on a tin roof. Nostalgic kind of sound. We dressed the pieces, then laid out the cuts on the bench.
Winding bevels with the drawknife.
Meanwhile, I made a pattern and laid out the stem.
Cut out on the bandsaw.
All watched over by Max the Wonder Dog. He's a Pocket Wolf.
Continued in the next post.
Continued from last post.
I cut the stem out on the bandsaw, and sawed the slight taper from top to bottom, then planed it flat.
Fitting the stem to the boat. There is still a bevel to cut from the rabbet out to the front, but I want to bore for the bronze carriage bolts from inside, before I finish shaping the stem.
That's where we had to leave it today.
Maybe I missed it but what are you planning to power her with?
Well, I may start with the Honda 30 I already have. Doug Hylan seems to think I wouldn't be too displeased with a 12 mph or so speed. On the other hand, if I can get a budget, I'd prefer a Yamaha or E-Tec 50 or possibly 60. 60 is the max recommended by Doug. The narrow, warped vee should be easy to drive, but it's a pretty heavy boat. 1500 lbs. or so. Given some more $$, I'll go with the 50 or 60.
We installed the stem and keel this weekend. Before installing, we worked the bevels on the keel at the bench, and partially on the stem. I didn't have a clear picture in my mind of the transition from stem bevel to keel at the forefoot, so I left that part unshaped. I continue to be happy with the bench design. I drank the Chris Schwarz koolaid, and made all front surfaces heavy, flat, dead straight, and co-planar. No overhangs, nothing underneath in the way of the holdfasts. The holdfasts work equally well in the top or legs, and with the vises, the work holding systems are simple and quick.
Continued from last post...
I've had a lot of trouble with this forum lately. Seems glitchy. It froze up putting a photo in, and then wanted to hot link all of my text.
Anyway, those holdfasts in the last post are cheap and effective. From Tools For working Wood. In the last photo, the stem is being shaped on my old bench. You can see what I have to go through to clamp stuff to the bench. I highly recommend Chris Schwarz's books on benches and tools.
I bored for the stem bolts from the inside, out through the inner stem bolt holes which were previously bored on the drill press.
The counterbores for the bolt heads were done with a nice tool from C C Fasteners. It's a 1" diameter flat bottom bore, which slips over a 3/8" drill bit, and obviates the need to drill the big hole first. I'll take a pic next time. The stem assembly took a bolt 14" long down in the knee area. The others were 8" and 6" long.
Here are the stem and keel installed on the boat.
I ended the stem bevel in a scallop below the sheer, as I usually do. Doug Hylan shows it tapered all the way to the top. The whole inner and outer stem are pretty beefy. Any opinions on this? I can always taper the stem above the deck later.
I like the stem as is.
Chuck, the scallop is done with drawknife, spokeshave, rasp, and 4-1/2" angle grinder (carefully). It's not all done yet. The edges will have an ease, but not a round over. We'll put a bronze half oval stem band on the stem.
Thanks for looking.
The filling and fairing has begun. There's a bit of work to do, but nothing too major. We'll see. We're using System 3 Quik Fair. I've used it quite a bit for the past few years. Like it a lot.
This is just the screw holes for now. Fairing starts tomorrow.
I meant to show a pic of the counterbore we got for the carriage bolts. They come in many sizes, and fit a typical twist bit, or brad point. This is for a 3/8" bit, and a 1" counter bore. Flat bottom hole, of course. CC Fasteners.
This is for the last bolt, through the stem knee, keelson, and keel. Really ties the bow structure to the keel.
Final shaping the stem tomorrow, and fairing begins. Hope to be glassing soon.
Been a while since I checked in, but I have enjoyed watching your progress. You are doing an amazing job and will have a beautiful boat.
I glassed and rough faired the hull before I attached the keel, stem and rails. My plan is to coat them with epoxy, final fair and paint.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks for checking in GTC. Looking good! I'm going to run a fillet at the keel, and glass over it w/ some biax. That's why we installed them first.
We put a good day in fairing. Didi some long boarding first, then started mixing the Quik Fair. I have a few hard spots where the butt blocks are, and a little work on the bottom scarfs and in the bow bottom planking. I want to get it reasonable, then glass, and fair some more.
We had some new blood in the shop today. Thanks Carol and CJ!
Also did some more stem shaping, with drawknife, planes, and grinder.
Continued in next post....
The shape is starting to look pretty good. Chines are pretty nice. I won't worry too much about that, as once rounded over and the spray rail is on, the rail itself is the line you see. Still want it nice though.
Getting closer to glassing!