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Thread: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

  1. #36
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    3/4" thick plank throughout, topsides and bottom (2 layers of 3/8" thick in the forward third of the boat for the bottom). It's pretty heavy duty, but will require little framing. Just the longitudinals, bulkheads, and floors.

  2. #37
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Quote Originally Posted by Reynard38 View Post
    Planning ahead for some low country shrimp?
    You betcha.
    Chuck Thompson

  3. #38
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Thanks for the photos. I will be interested to see how Hylan solves the forefoot twist issue with that staving. Presuming you are going to stave. I just started cutting molds for a deadrise skiff for my boy, which he has named Captain Roar. I am thinking 3/8" marine ply for the staves, with epoxy, and then I may or may not cross plank from about 14" aft of stem back. I might use ply in panels from there aft, but I am a little afraid of using a butt joint to transition from the staving to sheet ply. Captain Roar will be right around 13 ft.
    Last edited by davebrown; 06-08-2015 at 04:59 PM.
    Re-naming straits as necessary.

  4. #39
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    We'll cut a half lap in the sheet ply, and the second layer of cross planking will lay into the lap. The first and second layer of staving are staggered of course, so all seams are captured by the other layer of plank. should be very strong. The exterior is sheathed in a layer of fabric. Glass, in our case.

  5. #40
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    I had not thought of the twist up front. Take us some good pics please. Thanks.
    Chuck Thompson

  6. #41
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Looks like your doing an amazing job with your build.
    I am also building a PC 23, hoping to finish planking the bottom this weekend.
    Keep up the good work.

  7. #42
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Hi GTC. Show us your pics!

  8. #43
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    I'll get some pictures up as soon as I figure out how to size them correctly.

    Planking is all done, now its on to trimming and fairing to get ready to glass.

  9. #44
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    First and second layer staggered: got it. Right. totally waterproof.
    Re-naming straits as necessary.

  10. #45
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    I'll get some pictures up as soon as I figure out how to size them correctly.
    You can't upload them directly at a size that is viewable. You need to host them on a photp site, blog, somewhere...and then copy them from there to here. Here are the " official " image posting instructions from our fellow forumite, Thorne.

    Here's how to post photos on this forum:

    FIRST - Don't attach photos. Only a tiny version will display.

    SECOND - Post the photos on the web. Use your own website or a free image hosting service like www.flickr.com, picasaweb.google.com, picturetrail, photobucket, etc.

    THIRD - Once posted on the web, right-click the photo to "Copy Image Location", or drag the photo to another browser window, then copy the image URL (web address) which will end in ".jpg". You can test by pasting the photo URL into the location field (http://* ) of a web browser and see if the photo displays. Remember that this process will not work for photos only located on your computer, or uploaded to members-only Yahoo groups.

    (In Flickr - You usually have to first click the photo to bring up the black-framed viewer, then click the "View All Sizes" link near the top right. Then you can get the image URL by right-clicking the image. Alternately you can go to the Actions menu on the upper left, then select "View All Sizes".

    FOURTH - DO THIS EVERY TIME TO POST IMAGES IN THREADS:
    A. In any "Reply" window you can click the "insert image" icon --> a little yellow square icon with a dot at each corner, a tiny tree in the center.

    Depending on browser version and Reply/Edit status, this may bring up a simple window with a field to paste the URL into, or the "Add an Image" window described below.

    B. If the window titled "Add an Image" comes up, click the "From URL" tab, paste the URL of the photo in the field, deselect the box for "Retrieve remote file and reference locally", then click the "INSERT IMAGE" button. The Forum software will resize some large images, so look at your post to see the actual displayed images.

    YouTube video on how to select the image URL in Firefox, navigate the "Add an Image" tabs and paste the image URL -
    "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AkfB_eDmBRw&feature=player_embedded"


    Kevin
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  11. #46
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    [IMG][/IMG]Dry fitting the forward bottom planking

  12. #47
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Thank you for your help Kevin,

    I think I've got it.

    The boat and shop are a little messy after the glue up. I'll get them cleaned up and post an after picture.

  13. #48
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Thanks for the pic GTC. We are anxious to get on to the bottom planking. One more pair of topsides planks to go on. A question for you. At what station did you make the transition in the bottom planking from overlap to butt? At or about #3?

  14. #49
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    I believe that's right, Ill double check when I get home tonight.

    I was not able to get the 3/4" to bend and twist for the forward topsides. I pushed it until I thought I would break the shear clamp and finally used two layers of 3/8.

    Have you fitted a breast hook yet? I think that would have helped, but I thought I could do a better job of it if the boat were right side up.

    So I started the transition right on station 3 and it seems to be working ok, however in hind sight it may be better to start it a little further aft (6 or 8 inches). I don't think I would start any closer to the bow.
    Last edited by GTC; 06-10-2015 at 06:45 PM. Reason: update

  15. #50
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    There is significantly more twist at the bow than I realized. Not surprised you had to go to a thinner ply. (looks great)
    Last edited by chuckt; 06-11-2015 at 08:07 AM.
    Chuck Thompson

  16. #51

    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    On the PC18, I started with the "bow planking" from around station 6 with the transition at the chine exactly at station 3. From St.3 forward, there is quite a lot of twist in each plank and it is getting difficult to avoid them bending out a little bit along their centerline. As you can see on the picture, I had to sand down the ply partly in order to get everything smooth afterwards. Not too much, but to compensate for strength, I will anyhow laminate 2 layers of 200g from station 3 forward to the stem at the inside of the hull.



    Moreover, I had to double the chine from St. 3 forward, in order to get enough surface for gluing the planks to it.



    Yeahhh.... wer'e talking deadrise ;-)
    I guess, for an amateur builder, at least 2 Point Comfort builds would be required to learn about the specific building tricks.

  17. #52
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Neat trick. Did the plans suggest adding to the chine or did you come up with that yourself?
    Chuck Thompson

  18. #53

    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Chuck, the plans don't call for it. But due to some differences between US/EU standard lumber dimensions, the chine I used made it necessary. I could have attached the topside panels somewhat higher towards the shear, but even then there would have been little surface for gluing. Now, with my new tablesaw, I would just cut the chine myself instead of taking stock material ;-)

  19. #54
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Thanks for the comments and pics everyone. They are very helpful. I'll be bummed if I can't get the 3/4 ply around the bow at the topsides. The next plank aft required very little persuasion, but I have been wondering about the bow plank. WB, we should have plenty of land on the chine. It is 2" wide, and the chine line goes right down the center. I did add an extra piece behind the stem to catch the heel of the bevel on the chine log.

    If I can't get the 3/4'' around the bow sections, I have the 3/8" I set aside for the bottom. That means I'll have to order 2 more 3/8" sheets.

    I figured the bottom bow planking would bend a little convex. That kind of twist usually makes it inevitable. But net 3/4" plank is pretty dang beefy, so if I lose a little veneer here and there it won't be the end of the world. The 18 has only net 1/2"

    I have a few more pics I'll try to post tonight, before we get on to planking the topsides bow this weekend.

    Thanks again!

  20. #55
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]

    Getting the edge of the bottom trued up and screw holes filled, as you can tell my shop is small and its hard to step back to get a picture.

    I did not notice any bulging in the center of the twisted planks but some of the trailing edges stood a little proud. They responded very well to a dry wall screw pulling both layers together, and I don't think there will be a lot of fairing required.

    Good luck with the fwd topsides planks, I hope it goes well.

  21. #56
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    We got some work done on Friday and Saturday. I was too wore out to work today. The old knees are complaining about crawling under the strong back to clean up epoxy.


    Planing a butt block fair before hanging the next plank.



    We made a pattern for the bow topsides planks from some 1/2" chip board, and bent this around the boat. It was pretty stiff, and deflected the sheer clamp a bit. I was reluctant to spend the time cutting up a 3/4" sheet of meranti only to find it too stiff to bend onto the bow, so I chickened out and decided, like GTC, on 2 layers of 3/8". It's hard to say if I made the right call, but it's done now. I saved a whole sheet of 3/4, but will have to buy 2 more sheets of 3/8 for the bottom. The 3/8 bent in almost too easy, but 2 layers, glued together will be strong as hell, and we didn't build any stress into the boat.







    So the first layer of bow topsides is on!

  22. #57
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Certainly glad you guys figured this out if I end up building this boat. A bit less 3/4 and a bit more 3/8.
    Chuck Thompson

  23. #58
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Jim

    Have you given any thought to what size/style glass you are going to use? I'm getting close to ordering.
    I'm thinking something heavier on the bottom than the topsides, and possibly taping the seam under the keel.
    Let me know what you think.

    Your boat looks great, your moving a lot faster than I did.

  24. #59
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    I'm using 6oz biax tape on the chines and probably on the keel to hull join (over a good fillet). then 6 oz glass plain weave cloth over everything. I thought about Dynel, but was afraid of sucking up too much epoxy. I'm so used to glass anyway. Just one layer. We have a sand and mud bottom, and I don't have a need to beach the boat. I can anchor in a foot of water just off the beach, or use a haulout rig. I might glass over the whole keel with a layer or two of biax. Our boat only goes on and off the trailer twice a year, living at the dock for 6 months out of the year.

    It helps to have 2 or 3 people working on the boat at the same time. I'm glad I'm not working by myself on this one!

  25. #60
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Good progress jim !

    And a fine boat it will be too!

    Good call on the two layers of 3/8 I think.

  26. #61
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Couple more pics before I head over to work on the boat.


    Good shot of the twist up forward.


  27. #62
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Just noticed that Hylan now has a 25' version for inboard. She's very sharp with a fantail I really like. I'd be tempted to do that one but the 23" draft is inconsistent with my plan to use the boat to get into our marshes. I really like that fantail though.


    Which leads me to ask. Have you thought about the outboard's depth in the water? What are you expecting? Manufacturers don't appear to advertise depth in the water. I can understand that because it is going to vary depending on the boat but its a little frustrating trying to figure it out.
    Last edited by chuckt; 06-19-2015 at 12:17 PM.
    Chuck Thompson

  28. #63
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Shaft length should be an indication. My Honda 30 is about 20" immersed depth below the waterline. With an electric tilt, you can run in pretty shallow water with the motor kicked up, as long as the water intake stays immersed. I'd be careful about stranding a heavy boat in a pool across a bar. You have a 6 or 7' range down there don't you? I seem to remember the ebb pretty swift down around Eddings Pt., off the Morgan River. Spent a lot of time there in the late 60's, early 70's with family friends. And Edisto, too. I miss that water!

  29. #64
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Spent the morning pushing my home made long board around getting ready for glass, then a second coat of fairing to fill the last screw holes and general patch work. I have flattened the bottom down the center line to make a landing place for the keel.

    Milled spray rails this after noon.


    There is a lot to do at this stage:

    Prep the hull for glass
    Fabricate the stem, Keel, Spray rail, Rubrail
    Lots of table saw and planer work as well as scarfing all of the exterior pieces together.

    Chuckt,

    An outboard should be mounted so that the cavitation plate is even with the bottom of the boat, so add the distance between the cav plate and the bottom of the skeg to the depth of the hull and you should have a rough idea of draft.

    My guess is this boat will need a min of 2 feet of water to slip through. I personally did not choose it for shallow water more to run comfortably in a chop in and around the inlet down here.

  30. #65
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chuckt View Post
    Just noticed that Hylan now has a 25' version for inboard. She's very sharp with a fantail I really like. I'd be tempted to do that one but the 23" draft is inconsistent with my plan to use the boat to get into our marshes. I really like that fantail though. Which leads me to ask. Have you thought about the outboard's depth in the water? What are you expecting? Manufacturers don't appear to advertise depth in the water. I can understand that because it is going to vary depending on the boat but its a little frustrating trying to figure it out.
    You can run an outboard boat in the boats draft ( just about). Trimmed up that high, thrust is clumsy and steering less positive, but you can sneak in and out of places.

    Kevin

    Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  31. #66
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    Some pics from last week before I head out to the boat shop today. I hope to get the first scarfed bottom plank on today, but I might be by myself, so we'll see.


    The second topsides layer goes on the bow. System 3 gel-magic. Really liking the stuff.


    Planed the chine planking fair first with a drawknife, then with the power plane, then a #5 and/or a block plane.


    Bottom plank scarf. Lots of meat to remove.


    Checking for flat.

    I plan to glue up the scarfs right on the boat.

  32. #67
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    We've made some progress in the last few days, with some time out for a trip to Mystic. Chatted with Doug Hylan and crew, who were there aboard Grayling. I went aboard and below. Spectacular vessel!


    Anyway, we finally raked up the accumulated shavings. Vice Commodore was getting nervous about the fire hazard.

    We cut a slight bevel on the keel seam of the bottom planks. The least bevel was cut, and we tuned up the winding bevel with a plane.




    The scarfs were glued up right on the boat, with a taped off batten above and below, screwed through the scarf. Haven't pulled the battens yet to see how we did.


    We still had to finish off the chine bevels towards the bow, and work in the notch at the transition from lap to butt. Chris is tuning the notch corner with our trust angle iron tool. The bevels up forward are a lot of work, compared to aft anyway. I resorted to a 4-1/2" angle grinder to rough out the transition. That tool works well to maintain a little hollow in the center of the land, which makes it easier to fair nice and flat.


    Here's a shot of the starboard chine. Some of the screws had to be pulled in way of the bevel.

  33. #68
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    We finished out the day cutting the half laps in the aft bottom planks. Edge guide and router did the job, though it was noisy and dusty. I miss my Felder sliding table saw!




    Chris is drilling out a stubborn fastener, in way of the chine bevel.


    Here's the notch.

    I hope to work Friday and Saturday as well, but we might have to go sailing sometime. We have a trad. boat cruise scheduled for Sunday. Two Melonseeds, my crab skiff, Cricket, Mouse the Matinicus, and a Goat Is. Skiff. Photo op.

  34. #69
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    I hope you will post photos of your trip. I am taking one as well, for a week. I believe I know each of the above boats. Does that include Eye In Hand's Melonseeds?

    I note that you are quite a bit gutsier than I was on that forefoot: I staved mine first just in case I screwed it all up. I didn't want to have to throw away a half done boat.
    Re-naming straits as necessary.

  35. #70
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    Default Re: Point Comfort 23 in Brooklyn

    We've been making progress on the bow planking, but it goes a lot slower 6" at a time (twice) than it did in 8' sections. We actually used a full 4' wide plank for the first sets, then quickly went to 18" wide, 12" wide, and on down to about 5-3/4". Chris climbed up on the boat to drive the permanent bronze screws back aft, while Pat, Hans,
    and I started the double cross planking.





    Remember, it's done in two layers, staggered 3" or so, so all seams are covered. We are dry fitting all the planks, numbering them, and then we'll glue them on in one go (or so it is hoped).


    The plank ends run wild at this point. I've just begun fairing the aft planking.



    This is a little gauge I use to mark the finish cut on the bottom planking. I set up a jigsaw to the greatest bevel (in about a 4' section), then trimmed close to the line. The beveling is finished off with planes and the longboard.



    Continued later...

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