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Thread: LYSS Build

  1. #1
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    Default LYSS Build

    I have decided to build Walter Baron's Lumberyard skiff. I am trying to keep it true to it's original idea and use as much framing lumber as I can put up with and see how it goes. ACX for transom and #2 Doug fir for the corner posts to get it started.




    Trimmed the posts off with a handsaw...

  2. #2
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Cut the sides out of one sided MDO and milled the stem out of Home Depot douglas fir on the band saw...




  3. #3
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Nice! Keep the photos coming.
    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Excellent! You got a little head start on me but I am right there with you in model and method. My plans ship out tomorrow and I have been Craigslisting like mad to make room/money for the LYSS. I will be following your build closely. Great start!
    Ron

  5. #5
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Quote Originally Posted by DCBrown View Post
    I like the floor in your shop,I like your choice of materials. More pictures please!! D.C.
    Funny story - when I built my shop I always knew I wanted a wood floor so I figured I would lay T & G 1 1/4 on top. After I did so my concrete guy told me "if you wanted a wood floor we could have saved you ten grand and just poured piers on this half...

    Live and learn.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Sides are ready for the stem, everything is coming together nicely.




    Fastened the sides to the stem...




    All set up for the bend to the transom with a premier boat building team...



    And disaster...


  7. #7
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    To this day I really don't understand what happened but have come to the conclusion the material was of low quality and faulty. I have never seen plywood snap in a straight line like the one side did. The other side was cracking and snapping as well so the lesson I took was this:

    The west coast is different than the east coast when it comes to what is available to the common man. We know doug fir, they know yellow pine and cypress. I think the one sided MDO I purchased had too many internal flaws to take the bend. If I could give anyone any advice on a west coast build I would suggest spending the money on the three sheets of marine grade plywood for the sides and follow the standard procedures for everything else. It costs 2.5X as much but won't fail, finishes better and overall is more satisfying.

  8. #8
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    This all seems so... familiar.

    Roseburg was the only mill that had MDO that was of even modestly good quality, did you see who made yours? I'll never buy another inch of Freres lumber, but that is a discussion for another day, and not entirely relating to their poor wood quality (which it is poor).

    Had a similar failure on another boat and it turned out that the two sheets that butted together in the core had a 1/8" gap and weren't butted together. That is what causes those big linear failures. Sucks, no doubt about it. Nice part is, you have some great templates to make the new panels out of now!

    E

  9. #9
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Each sheet of Chinese ply that I purchase is flexed before loading. It helps to have three sons to do the donkey work.

    Link for Brits.

    http://www.timberstoreltd.co.uk/prod...2-44m-x-1-22m/

  10. #10
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Quote Originally Posted by PNW Crabber View Post
    To this day I really don't understand what happened but have come to the conclusion the material was of low quality and faulty. I have never seen plywood snap in a straight line like the one side did. The other side was cracking and snapping as well so the lesson I took was this:

    The west coast is different than the east coast when it comes to what is available to the common man. We know doug fir, they know yellow pine and cypress. I think the one sided MDO I purchased had too many internal flaws to take the bend. If I could give anyone any advice on a west coast build I would suggest spending the money on the three sheets of marine grade plywood for the sides and follow the standard procedures for everything else. It costs 2.5X as much but won't fail, finishes better and overall is more satisfying.
    Thanks for the heads-up/tip on the ply. Sorry to see that happen. Otherwise, lookin' good so far.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    I'm very sorry for you. Do not be discouraged, it comes at the end of all right!

    I have build the LYS 16 two years ago, and I am still happy with it. --> http://www.boote-forum.de/showthread.php?t=109252

    I have used okoume AW100 plywood from Joubert (12 mm or 1/2''). The bending is tricky and I must say, I had a small crack on one side aswell. Do you recognize the part time butt block?


    I have repaired it with fibreglass fabric. Very, very important is to use a spacer in the exact dimension as Walter Baron recommended, even in high aswell, and the ends must be in the right angle and rounded slightly so that no sharp edge pressed into plywood.
    Last edited by martin1302; 05-01-2015 at 09:48 AM.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Spokaloo View Post
    This all seems so... familiar.

    Roseburg was the only mill that had MDO that was of even modestly good quality, did you see who made yours? I'll never buy another inch of Freres lumber, but that is a discussion for another day, and not entirely relating to their poor wood quality (which it is poor).

    Had a similar failure on another boat and it turned out that the two sheets that butted together in the core had a 1/8" gap and weren't butted together. That is what causes those big linear failures. Sucks, no doubt about it. Nice part is, you have some great templates to make the new panels out of now!

    E
    I just walked out to my shop and there isn't a single stamp on the MDO so I am thinking offshore. Either way, I should have paid closer attention to the quality of the material and realized it wasn't going to work. Your recounting of building your boat was the inspiration for me to build mine and I remember reading about the failed butt block.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: LYSS Build


    After I cut a new stem (you can't get 3M 5200 off once it's cured) and attached the marine ply sides my son and I were able to walk the two sides in and had them attached to the transom with almost no effort. The higher quality wood had much more resilient spring to it and bent in a very uniform manner.

    You are correct about the spreader and something that wasn't clear to me from Walt's plans is you need to cut the ends for both the vertical and horizontal angles or you will have a sharp spot.
    Last edited by PNW Crabber; 05-01-2015 at 10:34 AM.

  14. #14
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    Salem, OR
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    You must have picked the whole pile of 4x4s at HD to get clear, mostly vertical grain. I've been on the lookout for the same every time I go into the store, but I haven't had any luck so far. I've been looking more off than on for a couple of years...

  15. #15
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Quote Originally Posted by LittleGoat View Post
    You must have picked the whole pile of 4x4s at HD to get clear, mostly vertical grain. I've been on the lookout for the same every time I go into the store, but I haven't had any luck so far. I've been looking more off than on for a couple of years...
    I actually found two, but as you'll see later in my build I couldn't find anything that even remotely resembled anything clear in a 20' length for the chines.

  16. #16
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Thought this picture of my daughter eyeballing our handiwork spelled out the situation pretty well.


  17. #17
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    New sides cut, fitted and fastened. Opted for marine grade at $105.00 per sheet.



    This went together much better so lesson learned.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Searched all the box stores in my area around Portland and couldn't find anything I felt I could cut a chine out of and bend without breaking. Every knot is essentially a weak spot so I broke down and bought a stick of 6/4 by 8" by 16' of vertical grain doug fir. Sawed it into two chines and have a piece left over I am going to use as a sheer clamp (planning on decks).

    Since I have a healthy dose of paranoia around the sound of shattering wood I decided I would steam bend these and fit to the outside. We put together the steam rig you see out of an old gas can, 4 ft length of heater hose and then bagged the piece with some 6 mil plastic I had laying around.



    The finished dimensions of my chines are about 1 5/16 X 3". We steamed for about 90 minutes and they bent around the curve like butter. Pretty hot to the touch though...



    Clamped in place with the second one cooking away in the background.



    This really worked better than I had any right to expect and was pretty fun to do as well.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    A couple of days later we fit them to the inside and glued and screwed them in place.



    On a side note, I had reached out to Walter regarding removing the butt block material to make way for the chine. He said it was no big deal and I intentionally left the glue a little skimpy in that section. It turned out if was pretty easy and the tools of choice were a dovetail saw to cut the kerf through to the side panel and then I used by $20.00 Harbor Freight multi-tool with a scraper blade and it popped them right off.

    I have seen lots of posts with concerns around this particular area and really, it's much ado about nothing.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    I had purchased the ACX underlayment at the same time as the original MDO and decided to stick with it. I put the good side towards the interior since I am going to finish the inside natural and then filled the voids, knots, cracks, etc. with System Three epoxy. I have to say, I am an old West System guy and kind of miss the pumps.





    Front butt block made out of 3/4 scrap...



    Bottom completed!


  21. #21
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Taken from your post #18 "This went together much better so lesson learned."
    Hmmmm. I think, since I basically hate to do things twice, I might have used that ply for shelving.
    But I'm hoping for the best as you set forth—stay off the rocks.

  22. #22
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    PNW, did you gut your chines at an angle to get the bevel or did you cut them straight and plane? I'm always curious what the best way is to do chines as I've seen people swear by both. Your skiff looks awesome already, what are you going to power it with? Benches inside, casting platform?

  23. #23
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    I cut them at an angle on the table saw. Because I am building the sports skiff the angle was slightly different from what Walt shows on his plans. But I essentially sawed a 6 1/4 in board in half so each half when reversed became a chine. I cleaned them up a little bit after they were installed but in my opinion much easier to cut on the table saw rather than plane after the fact.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Quote Originally Posted by wallacethegreenmonster View Post
    PNW, did you gut your chines at an angle to get the bevel or did you cut them straight and plane? I'm always curious what the best way is to do chines as I've seen people swear by both. Your skiff looks awesome already, what are you going to power it with? Benches inside, casting platform?
    Really looking for an Evinrude 28 with controls. I am going to have a center console with a seat just in front and some move-able four legged seats fore and aft.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    The 25 does just dandy, if you can't find the 28. I've also run a 30, and it was almost unnoticeably different.

    E

  26. #26
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Good to know, thanks for the info. There's one on ifish right now with controls I should snap up.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Very nice. Cant wait to see the finished product.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Any more progress to report?

  29. #29
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Finished sanding the hull, filling 600 screw holes and adding the trim shoes.

  30. #30
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Primed it tonight and for all the doubting Thomas's out there I went way off the res and am painting with Sherwin Williams exterior paint. I weighed all the pros and cons of marine vs. acrylic exterior enamel and couldn't come up with a good enough reason to pay 3X for paint when I didn't have to. I actually work for a large chemical distributor which sells to the manufacturers and got a little inside skinny on paint and it's relative properties.

    So I am officially volunteering to be a test bed for the forum and will report in periodically on the durability and success/failure.





    Going to knock the fuzz off in the morning and address any imperfections I missed, roll on another coat of primer and prep for a black bottom and light grey sides. Getting pretty excited to turn it over, finish the framing and deck.

  31. #31
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Well, the barn paint I used on mine ($16 a gallon) has kept the water out, but it does wear off against the dock after 2 years...

    She'll be fine.

    E

  32. #32
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    I love barn paint! It's pretty interesting to dig into the details of paint manufacturing - lots of urban legend and smoke and mirrors. We'll see how it goes but I'm pretty confident it will withstand the rope and crab pots I'll bang against the sides.

  33. #33
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Spokaloo - did you notice when you built yours the bottom was somewhat segmented due to the butt blocks? My chines had a nice curve and fairness to them but when the bottom was installed and I put the guides on the bottom I really noticed the three pieces of the bottom not moving in a fair curve but rather flat then flat then flat again.

    Doesn't really matter from a performance perspective but was a little odd and wasn't what I planned on.

  34. #34
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Quote Originally Posted by PNW Crabber View Post
    Spokaloo - did you notice when you built yours the bottom was somewhat segmented due to the butt blocks? My chines had a nice curve and fairness to them but when the bottom was installed and I put the guides on the bottom I really noticed the three pieces of the bottom not moving in a fair curve but rather flat then flat then flat again.

    Doesn't really matter from a performance perspective but was a little odd and wasn't what I planned on.
    the pics depict a nice leveling hook but don't show any flats

    once she'z in the water you won't be able to see 'em

    & i'll bet you won't be able to feel any effects

    sw
    "we are the people, our parents warned us about" (jb)

    steve

  35. #35
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    Default Re: LYSS Build

    Mine was a touch knuckle-y at the butt blocks, yes. No real way to completely alleviate that with the way the butt blocks are installed and the type of wood that's used. If you did scarphs or ply butt blocks, you wouldn't get the knuckles.

    However, it makes no difference on my boat. Still hauls a** with the 25hp on it and the wife and kid in the boat with me.

    E

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