Hello all. I am building one of the boat cradles advertised in WB for the newest addition to the family. My question is this: What type of products would be suitable for finishing the hull (nontoxic). I do not want to paint. Thanks in advance.
Eric
Hello all. I am building one of the boat cradles advertised in WB for the newest addition to the family. My question is this: What type of products would be suitable for finishing the hull (nontoxic). I do not want to paint. Thanks in advance.
Eric
Hello all. I am building one of the boat cradles advertised in WB for the newest addition to the family. My question is this: What type of products would be suitable for finishing the hull (nontoxic). I do not want to paint. Thanks in advance.
Eric
Hello all. I am building one of the boat cradles advertised in WB for the newest addition to the family. My question is this: What type of products would be suitable for finishing the hull (nontoxic). I do not want to paint. Thanks in advance.
Eric
Senior Member
You might want to consider shellac, which is a natural resin carried in alcohol. Once the alcohol evaporates, the finish is fine-looking--and it's even edible. The only disadvantage is that if you spill alcohol on it the finish comes off.
Senior Member
You might want to consider shellac, which is a natural resin carried in alcohol. Once the alcohol evaporates, the finish is fine-looking--and it's even edible. The only disadvantage is that if you spill alcohol on it the finish comes off.
Senior Member
You might want to consider shellac, which is a natural resin carried in alcohol. Once the alcohol evaporates, the finish is fine-looking--and it's even edible. The only disadvantage is that if you spill alcohol on it the finish comes off.
Senior Member
I take it you're rejected toxic woods like mahogoney.
It's good for every wee babe to have a wee boat.
Senior Member
I take it you're rejected toxic woods like mahogoney.
It's good for every wee babe to have a wee boat.
Senior Member
I take it you're rejected toxic woods like mahogoney.
It's good for every wee babe to have a wee boat.
As of yet I have not decided what type of wood to plank it with. I must admit I didn't even think of wood toxicity. It is to be copper riveted lapstrake (only three planks per side), cross-planked bottom. I've never built any thing like this, and since I'm an apartment dweller, I thought this might also be a warmup for the day I have room to build one a little bigger.
Maybe this is a good time to ask about the rivets. From what I've seen, the choices are to use common copper boat nails or rose headed boat nails. Pros, cons?
Any and all suggestions regarding finishes, wood types, and riveting would be greatly appreciated. Go easy on the rookie.
[This message has been edited by EKrueger (edited 01-22-2001).]
As of yet I have not decided what type of wood to plank it with. I must admit I didn't even think of wood toxicity. It is to be copper riveted lapstrake (only three planks per side), cross-planked bottom. I've never built any thing like this, and since I'm an apartment dweller, I thought this might also be a warmup for the day I have room to build one a little bigger.
Maybe this is a good time to ask about the rivets. From what I've seen, the choices are to use common copper boat nails or rose headed boat nails. Pros, cons?
Any and all suggestions regarding finishes, wood types, and riveting would be greatly appreciated. Go easy on the rookie.
[This message has been edited by EKrueger (edited 01-22-2001).]
As of yet I have not decided what type of wood to plank it with. I must admit I didn't even think of wood toxicity. It is to be copper riveted lapstrake (only three planks per side), cross-planked bottom. I've never built any thing like this, and since I'm an apartment dweller, I thought this might also be a warmup for the day I have room to build one a little bigger.
Maybe this is a good time to ask about the rivets. From what I've seen, the choices are to use common copper boat nails or rose headed boat nails. Pros, cons?
Any and all suggestions regarding finishes, wood types, and riveting would be greatly appreciated. Go easy on the rookie.
[This message has been edited by EKrueger (edited 01-22-2001).]
...I'll weigh in on the recommendation to use shellac as well...you can get it ready mixed (Bullseye is sold in most home fix-it stores) but be sure to check the date on the can as it doesn't have an extremely long shelf life...you can also get it in flakes and dissolve in alcohol per directions...it is most non-toxic...be sure to apply several coats as the stains you use are not so kind to wee ones...it dries fast and if you bronze wool it between coats it'll gleam
...I'll weigh in on the recommendation to use shellac as well...you can get it ready mixed (Bullseye is sold in most home fix-it stores) but be sure to check the date on the can as it doesn't have an extremely long shelf life...you can also get it in flakes and dissolve in alcohol per directions...it is most non-toxic...be sure to apply several coats as the stains you use are not so kind to wee ones...it dries fast and if you bronze wool it between coats it'll gleam
...I'll weigh in on the recommendation to use shellac as well...you can get it ready mixed (Bullseye is sold in most home fix-it stores) but be sure to check the date on the can as it doesn't have an extremely long shelf life...you can also get it in flakes and dissolve in alcohol per directions...it is most non-toxic...be sure to apply several coats as the stains you use are not so kind to wee ones...it dries fast and if you bronze wool it between coats it'll gleam
In woodturning we use Salad Bowel Finish to stay nontoxic. Try this site: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/
Tom
In woodturning we use Salad Bowel Finish to stay nontoxic. Try this site: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/
Tom
In woodturning we use Salad Bowel Finish to stay nontoxic. Try this site: http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/
Tom
Senior Member
Just plain vegetable oil. I have used it on many a child toy. Gary
Senior Member
Just plain vegetable oil. I have used it on many a child toy. Gary
Senior Member
Just plain vegetable oil. I have used it on many a child toy. Gary
Thank you all for the ideas. The woodturning site seemed to have several products that would work. Does anybody know a reason why tung oil wouldn't be good?
Thank you all for the ideas. The woodturning site seemed to have several products that would work. Does anybody know a reason why tung oil wouldn't be good?
Thank you all for the ideas. The woodturning site seemed to have several products that would work. Does anybody know a reason why tung oil wouldn't be good?
With exposure to the ultraviolet of the sun it will yellow/darken with age, more than most varnishes. If you are not going to leave it unprotected a lot, that should not be a problem.
With exposure to the ultraviolet of the sun it will yellow/darken with age, more than most varnishes. If you are not going to leave it unprotected a lot, that should not be a problem.
With exposure to the ultraviolet of the sun it will yellow/darken with age, more than most varnishes. If you are not going to leave it unprotected a lot, that should not be a problem.
Senior Member
I used 50/50 boiled linseed oil/turpentine on a black walnut cradle I built for my children in 1976.
No problems yet.
If you want more shine, you could wax it.
Alan
[This message has been edited by Alan D. Hyde (edited 01-23-2001).]
Senior Member
I used 50/50 boiled linseed oil/turpentine on a black walnut cradle I built for my children in 1976.
No problems yet.
If you want more shine, you could wax it.
Alan
[This message has been edited by Alan D. Hyde (edited 01-23-2001).]
Senior Member
I used 50/50 boiled linseed oil/turpentine on a black walnut cradle I built for my children in 1976.
No problems yet.
If you want more shine, you could wax it.
Alan
[This message has been edited by Alan D. Hyde (edited 01-23-2001).]
As much as I would enjoy to see it float, I don't believe it will ever see the water or much sunshine, so UV rays shouldn't be a problem.I do like the boiled linseed oil/turpentine idea. I take it all the turpentine evaporates out. What about the turpentine subsitutes, are they close enough to the same thing?
As much as I would enjoy to see it float, I don't believe it will ever see the water or much sunshine, so UV rays shouldn't be a problem.
As much as I would enjoy to see it float, I don't believe it will ever see the water or much sunshine, so UV rays shouldn't be a problem.
Senior Member
Before you go the linseed oil route take a look at something that lists all the stuff in linseed oil. I was shocked when I got a can of raw linseed oil and read the warnings on it. For reasons unknown to me raw linseed oil, and presumably therefore boiled linseed oil as well, has lead in it as well as a whole range of other carcinogenic heavy metals. Tung oil is a bit better but still not truly non-toxic. Vegetable oil has been known to go rancid. For truly non-toxic finishes I would look to either Salad Bowl Oil or Mineral Oil. The latter can be purchased from some cooking supply stores (I have purchased it at Williams-Sonoma) because it is used on cutting boards and salad bowls. As to rivets, my key concern would be that rivets usually stand a bit proud of the surface on the inside. That's potentially not the best situation for a cradle, but I think you have a better chance of getting a safe surface with copper nails and flat roves.
- Bruce
[This message has been edited by Bruce Hooke (edited 01-23-2001).]
Senior Member
Before you go the linseed oil route take a look at something that lists all the stuff in linseed oil. I was shocked when I got a can of raw linseed oil and read the warnings on it. For reasons unknown to me raw linseed oil, and presumably therefore boiled linseed oil as well, has lead in it as well as a whole range of other carcinogenic heavy metals. Tung oil is a bit better but still not truly non-toxic. Vegetable oil has been known to go rancid. For truly non-toxic finishes I would look to either Salad Bowl Oil or Mineral Oil. The latter can be purchased from some cooking supply stores (I have purchased it at Williams-Sonoma) because it is used on cutting boards and salad bowls. As to rivets, my key concern would be that rivets usually stand a bit proud of the surface on the inside. That's potentially not the best situation for a cradle, but I think you have a better chance of getting a safe surface with copper nails and flat roves.
- Bruce
[This message has been edited by Bruce Hooke (edited 01-23-2001).]
Senior Member
Before you go the linseed oil route take a look at something that lists all the stuff in linseed oil. I was shocked when I got a can of raw linseed oil and read the warnings on it. For reasons unknown to me raw linseed oil, and presumably therefore boiled linseed oil as well, has lead in it as well as a whole range of other carcinogenic heavy metals. Tung oil is a bit better but still not truly non-toxic. Vegetable oil has been known to go rancid. For truly non-toxic finishes I would look to either Salad Bowl Oil or Mineral Oil. The latter can be purchased from some cooking supply stores (I have purchased it at Williams-Sonoma) because it is used on cutting boards and salad bowls. As to rivets, my key concern would be that rivets usually stand a bit proud of the surface on the inside. That's potentially not the best situation for a cradle, but I think you have a better chance of getting a safe surface with copper nails and flat roves.
- Bruce
[This message has been edited by Bruce Hooke (edited 01-23-2001).]
Senior Member
Why not use wedged trunnels?
Alan
Senior Member
Why not use wedged trunnels?
Alan
Senior Member
Why not use wedged trunnels?
Alan
Eventually, there should be a padded fabric "bumper" lining the inside of the hull. This is supposed to take care of that, but you know how kids are. Alan, I know I could do a search for them, but could you please explain how wedged trunnels work? Again, thanks to you all.
Eric
Eventually, there should be a padded fabric "bumper" lining the inside of the hull. This is supposed to take care of that, but you know how kids are. Alan, I know I could do a search for them, but could you please explain how wedged trunnels work? Again, thanks to you all.
Eric
Eventually, there should be a padded fabric "bumper" lining the inside of the hull. This is supposed to take care of that, but you know how kids are. Alan, I know I could do a search for them, but could you please explain how wedged trunnels work? Again, thanks to you all.
Eric
Senior Member
Essentially wooden pegs with kerfs cut across the ends, into which small glued wedges are driven to hold the pegs in place.
Don't wedge parallel to the grain near the edge of a board or you may cause splitting.
Perpendicular wedging in a hole right near the end of a board must be done with care, or you may split out the small chunk of wood between the hole and the edge.
Alan
Senior Member
Essentially wooden pegs with kerfs cut across the ends, into which small glued wedges are driven to hold the pegs in place.
Don't wedge parallel to the grain near the edge of a board or you may cause splitting.
Perpendicular wedging in a hole right near the end of a board must be done with care, or you may split out the small chunk of wood between the hole and the edge.
Alan
Senior Member
Essentially wooden pegs with kerfs cut across the ends, into which small glued wedges are driven to hold the pegs in place.
Don't wedge parallel to the grain near the edge of a board or you may cause splitting.
Perpendicular wedging in a hole right near the end of a board must be done with care, or you may split out the small chunk of wood between the hole and the edge.
Alan
The plans call for 5/32" planking. It sounds like trunnels might be dangerous.
The plans call for 5/32" planking. It sounds like trunnels might be dangerous.
The plans call for 5/32" planking. It sounds like trunnels might be dangerous.
...little tip I picked up from Norm on "New Yankee Workshop"...was about butcher blocks but same logic applies...don't use vegetable oil as it'll turn rancid...use mineral oil instead...I'd still go with shellac unless the kid's a boozer as alcohol will soften it again
...little tip I picked up from Norm on "New Yankee Workshop"...was about butcher blocks but same logic applies...don't use vegetable oil as it'll turn rancid...use mineral oil instead...I'd still go with shellac unless the kid's a boozer as alcohol will soften it again
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