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Thread: Gartside 170

  1. #106
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Corvallis
    Posts
    212

    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Most of the cabin construction is done. My try square has been parked while the bevel gauge and protractor have gotten a workout. I'm thinking that some quick stud framing would be very rewarding about now. The plans are fairly complete; never the less, there has been a good bit of conjecture (no doubt related to my experience level) even as I tried to stay true to the plans.

    The plans call for 2 layers of veneers, 3/8" and 1/4". However, I wanted to utilize what was left from molding the hull so I did 3 layers, 2 - 1/4" layers fore and aft separated by a diagonal 5/32".


  2. #107
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Rushworth Australia
    Posts
    2,394

    Default Re: Gartside 170

    You're making great progress Bruce. Can I ask you to explain your electrical system please, like how many batteries , what items you're going to run, also do you have wiring up the mast and how have you run it in/out etc???

    Thanks

  3. #108
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Corvallis
    Posts
    212

    Default Re: Gartside 170

    The rough sanding is mostly done. We have some cold weather in the forecast so glassing will have to wait.






    I strongly considered painting the exterior of the cabin as I can't trust that I would be dutiful in maintaining varnish. Picked up a can of Cetol Teak to see how it would look. Have to say that varnish is probably superior aesthetically. Perhaps the Cetol will hold up better. I think it is a river of no return, whatever coating I use.

  4. #109
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Rushworth Australia
    Posts
    2,394

    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Bruce , I got caught between your posts - can you see my question at #107

    thanks

  5. #110
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Corvallis
    Posts
    212

    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Andrew - this boat will have a rudimentary electrical system. Just one battery (no engine to start). All the lighting is LED (a dome light in the cabin, 2 reading lamps, and nav. lights). In addition, I will run wire to a bilge pump, compass, chartplotter/sounder, 2 accessory outlets and a tiller pilot. I am not going to run wire in the mast. Rather, I plan to haul this battery powered light mounted on a stick such that it rises above the top of the mast.

  6. #111
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Corvallis
    Posts
    212

    Default Re: Gartside 170

    In WB #220 there is an article on making hand rails by Eric Blake. Following his instructions were very straight forward. There's still some hand sanding remaining. The rails will be mounted from below with 1/4" bolts. All the bolts will avoid going through the beams. The roof will be strengthened under the bolts with good sized G11 washers.



    The rails, the toe kick, rub rail and coaming cap are all Khaya. In my experience, it isn't the most limber species in the world. Gartside specs fairly substantial dimensions for the toe kick and rub rail, so it took some considerable wrestling to get these bits in place. For grins I tried steaming the shorter toe kick that transitions from the upper to lower deck. That section was the most severe curvature. I knew it was unlikely to help - it actually prove somewhat useful, but I didn't steam elsewhere.


    You'll notice the roof and the sliding hatch are glassed. The hatch is where my next efforts will be focused.


  7. #112
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Corvallis
    Posts
    212

    Default Re: Gartside 170

    The transition joints for the rub rail and the aft cockpit coaming are half laps reinforced with bronze screws.




  8. #113
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Rushworth Australia
    Posts
    2,394

    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Beautiful work on the rails Bruce. Your cabin top looks like a chop top from the fifties, long bonnet and all. Nice.

    how will you hold windows in?

  9. #114
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Corvallis
    Posts
    212

    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Thanks Andrew. Prior to routing the window rabbets I discussed mounting with a local glass shop we've dealt with over the years. They're no longer recommending caulking-type sealants. Instead, they utilize a tape that is quite thin. There will be a wood stop to hold it all in place. In fact the general topic of sealants is something I've been pondering. "Practical Sailor" has been evaluating various products over the years. In places where an adhesive sealant is desired they give a favorable response to a couple of non-marine products including Locktite PL40. Apparently, it is functionally quite similar to 3M 4200 and Sikaflex 291. For non-adhesive sealants they are favorable to butyl tape as well as Sudbury 300. Perhaps there is room to consider non-marine sealants much like non-marine paints are worth looking at for some applications. I purchased the Sudbury product for the winches and the hatch. All the other hardware will be bedded with the Locktite.

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