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Thread: Gartside 170

  1. #141
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Well done on the pour Bruce. With my lead I found that a wire brush attachment on angle grinder gave an excellent finish for coating with epoxy. You'll need to fill the odd divot anyway. Epoxy is a great undercoat for painting. As you know...

  2. #142
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Thank you Andrew. It is a great relief to have that melting business out of the way. I hope you're feeling well.

  3. #143
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Very good! What kind of material in keel-bolts do you plan?

    /Fredrik

  4. #144
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Well done! Although I didn't pour my own 900 lb. keel, I still remember the fun of getting it out of my van and into position by myself. In my case, I put it in place and built the boat on top of it rather then adding it at the end of the build.
    I was born on a wooden boat that I built myself.

  5. #145
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Fredrik - I have 3/8" (9.5 mm) Si Bronze bolts. The inner keel has been drilled where specified at the correct angle. I'm planning on the inner keel holes to serve as a drill guide for the lead.

  6. #146
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Bruce just on the drilling now that you mention it. I found that the lead when being drilled is sort of "sticky". By that i mean it doesn't seem to take much to heat it up and make it gall on the bit. You also need some where for the swarf to go and I found as i drilled deeper it became more of a problem for swarf to travel back up bit. I tried acetone and kerosene and then just plain oil but while helping a little, drilling through 9" of lead still became difficult. I hope your lead being a little smaller wont be as difficult. Oh be sure to back out bit frequently!
    Just a heads up. Good luck

  7. #147
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Thanks for the drilling tips Andrew. I have two long bits for this task - 3/8" and 25/64" bits. The thinking behind using the larger bit was to leave some room for epoxy. Both bits will be dubbed and the smaller 3/8" bit can be used for evacuating the hole. I've noticed that some folks use liquid soap. Which is preferable - soap or oil?

  8. #148
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    I covered the inner keel with packing tape, coated the lead keel with thickened epoxy and jacked it into place. It seemed like an easy way to get a good fit.





    All of the bolt hole drilling was done from inside the cabin. There's an oily mess of lead chips on the floor. Mostly, the drilling process was drama free. Once drilled, I dropped the keel and turned it on it's side (much easier said than done) and made the counter bores.



    I'll do a bit of wire brushing and corner shaping before I jack it back into place. All the silicon bronze bolts have been cut to size. However, we're going on vacation so the final mating with have to wait.

  9. #149
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Bet you're glad thats nearly over Bruce. how many hours sleep did it cost

  10. #150
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    It's been a month since that last pic and I'm still occasionally finding lead bits. Perhaps I've gone a bit mental about finding all the lead remnants. If I can muster the gumption, I may add another epoxy fairing coat prior to painting. All the lead shavings were melted down into one ingot. It weighed 26.6 lbs, coincidentally the identical weight of the lead bricks I used. Glad it's installed and I hope I never have to mess with it again.


    All my Sitka lumber was rough sawn. I got a bit lucky having straight edges. It would have been a challenge for me to straight-line 16 footers.


    It's bad enough getting around my small shop with a boat in it. Putting this spar bench in totally messes up any kind of coherent traffic flow. The laser makes quick-ish work of getting a straight work surface. The extra 2x2s on the sides has served as a sort of shooting board for the tapering and will provide a ledger to clamp to. I ended up using 3 different size boards scarfed to form a 27' board. 23 gauge pin nails helped keep the boards from slipping during glue up and they easily pulled out after the epoxy set.



    This is a box mast so the fore and aft boards (7/8" thick) are tapered both sides for the upper 12'. The mast sides (5/8" thick) are tapered for the same length on one side. The fore and aft boards have rabbets.




    Tomorrow I'll mill and glue up the blocking and experiment with some mast-top crane shapes.

  11. #151
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Spar work took a hiatus while enjoying some fall camping and waiting for a 7/8" round over bit to arrive. That was a big bit to spin in a hand held router. It ended being low drama by slowing the speed way down. There are 3 sections of internal blocking. The blocking was cut and beveled to alleviate a hard transition. The blocking at the top was extended to form a tenon to which the crane was attached.




    The boom is solid and a bit over 9' and is tapered toward each end. The spreaders will receive a copper strip over their tips.

    Through mortises were cut to accomodate 74mm sheaves.


  12. #152
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    The end is touchable Bruce

  13. #153
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Looking fabulous! Will you vanish or paint?

    /F

  14. #154
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Nice job! Was the box spar specified on the plans, or did you just not want to mess with birdsmouth? Nice to get the keel job on and done with.

  15. #155
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    The finish will be Cetol teak and gloss. The box spar was specified. I've done birdsmouth several times and had no reservations to use it. However, birdsmouth would require many more scarf joints. Furthermore, the mast taper schedule would be more complex with birdsmouth. I'm not aware of a marconi rigged Gartside design that employs birdsmouth spars. The mast weighs about 45 lbs, so it's not particularly light weight. For grins, several months ago I investigated what a carbon fiber mast would cost. I was quoted over $5k (15x the cost of Sitka). Perhaps, I can reduce some weight aloft by using synthetic rigging. I have purchased heat-set dyneema for the backstay. It's a struggle for me to understand how to employ syn. rigging for the remaining shrouds and stays on a trailer sailor where some attention to setup time is required. My build has pretty much followed Gartside's plans religiously. I will probably use the spec'd 3/16" stainless.

  16. #156
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Perhaps how close one gets to a boat before the imperfections jump out is a decent measure of the paint job. There are several areas in this paint job where it's best to take several steps back, but it is what it is. I wish I had the room to use our HVLP sprayer, but the boat is too close to one wall. We rolled and tipped using System 3 water-based LPU. Gartside drew the painting pattern on the lines plan. You'll notice the mast hanging near the boat. The spars have received three coats of Cetol Teak. I'm going to wait a while for the two remaining Cetol gloss coats.







  17. #157
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Wow, stunning Bruce. What’s the dark colour?
    Last edited by andrewpatrol; 11-13-2017 at 05:33 PM.

  18. #158
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Andrew, it's plain old black.

  19. #159
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Wow! She’s a looker!
    -Jim

    Sucker for a pretty face.
    1934 27' Blanchard Cuiser ~ Amazon, Ex. Emalu
    19'6" Caledonia Yawl ~ Sparrow

    Getting into trouble one board at a time.

  20. #160
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Quote Originally Posted by bheys View Post
    Andrew, it's plain old black.
    Nothing plain about it. I hope you’re proud

  21. #161
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Much appreciated, but pride is probably not the primary emotion. Mostly I want to get the boat done and start using it. I recently did another hit list. It's sobering to account for all that remains. Devils and details. However, I will make a pitch for the paint. It is supposed to not share the safety related issues normally associated with LPU paints. This paint is fussy regarding temp. and humidity. It dries very fast. Yet a wet edge has to be maintained. However, if the temp. is not too high and the humidity is high, the paint will flow nicely. I rolled small areas and Sue followed with her tipping brush immediately.
    https://www.systemthree.com/products...ethane-topcoat

  22. #162
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    The entire build looks fabulous! Looking forward to see her splashed. Do you know if this particular model has been built before?

    /Fredrik

  23. #163
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Thank you Fredrik. I believe that this is the first #170. Not a source of comfort - to say the least. It would have been a real asset to leverage off the experience of prior 170 builders. Sue and I still have high hopes that this boat will meet our needs, but perhaps we occupy an unusual niche.

  24. #164
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Quote Originally Posted by bheys View Post
    Thank you Fredrik. I believe that this is the first #170. Not a source of comfort - to say the least. It would have been a real asset to leverage off the experience of prior 170 builders. Sue and I still have high hopes that this boat will meet our needs, but perhaps we occupy an unusual niche.

    Have you seen this discussion, maybe something...

    http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...uild-photo%92s

  25. #165
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Have you forwarded this thread to Paul? I imagine he'd remind you that about a third of the time, work and perhaps materials remain in the finishing out of details once the hull, deck and cabin furniture are complete.
    "It's a pirate's life for me. Savvy??"

  26. #166
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Fredrik, I did see that thread. Nice boat for sure. In fact, I have been discussing sail configuration with the sailmaker we will use (Schattauer Sails). As with the rest of the boat, there's little desire to deviate significantly from Paul's plans. There will be no fat head main. I want a standard split backstay (no running backstays). The deviations from the 170 sail plan: There will be one, perhaps two full length battens at the top. The main will be loose-footed. We'll discard (or maybe delay) the installation of a furling setup for the jib, using a simple downhaul instead. The mast head crane design will be modified to accommodate an asymmetrical spinnaker. In total, these are trivial changes in my opinion.


  27. #167
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Quote Originally Posted by bheys View Post
    Perhaps how close one gets to a boat before the imperfections jump out is a decent measure of the paint job.
    Looks perfect from here. Great work!

  28. #168
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Thanks Dave. That means a lot coming from someone who has a boat that pretty much defines perfection in my book.

  29. #169
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Beautiful work on that paint job, nicely done!

  30. #170
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    The last month has mostly been about hardware installation. All the chocks and cleats are attached. The rudder is hung and tiller put together. All 8 chainplates are on. The winches are in. The main sheet traveler is attached, along with the jib sheet traveler. And finally the hatch is bedded in. I've used 3 different caulking/bedding products, but for the most part I've used butyl tape. Gartside spec'd 1.25" thick backing plates and I followed that with G-10 plates that I fabricated for each piece. The butyl tape is easy to work with, stays soft, simple to clean up, however it does keep squeezing out for a period of time.








    The main sheet traveler arrived with two large zip ties holding the car in place on the track. One of the zip ties was loose allowing the car to fall off the track while I was taking it into the shop. To my horror there were ball bearings every where. Sheesh!



    We just picked up the trailer a couple days ago. There will be some adjusting of the bunks of course, but it should work. It has an extendable tongue so hopefully it can adapt to differing ramps and water depth.



  31. #171
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Details, details, details. So many little jobs. Drives you mad don’t it. Seems they take an inordinate amount of time too.
    What are the trailer bunks made of Bruce, looks like a plastic material, no rollers?

  32. #172
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Another wow! What a great build. Are you able to determine how close you'll be to Gartside's 2000 hour estimate to build it?
    Steve B
    TraditionalSmallCraft.com
    RIVUS 16' Melonseed
    PAYTON 13' Pea Pod

    "If a man must be obsessed by something, I suppose a boat is as good as anything, perhaps a bit better than most." E. B. White

  33. #173
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Andrew - I spec'd the trailer without rollers to try and avoid any hard spots and spread the load. The plastic material over the wood bunks is an option in place of carpet. The intent is to reduce friction. There is a warning on the plastic to not detach the boat prematurely. It's not hard to imagine some comical launch events. I've often thought that bleachers would be a great addition to the busy launch ramp we use. So much drama!
    Steve - I've not kept track of time save for the fact that I very slowly started lofting in the summer of 2014. Health issues forced a 6 month hiatus shortly after the hull was turned. A strip built hull would be considerably quicker. At any rate, I'll guess that I'm probably going to end up at least 30% over Gartside's estimate.

  34. #174
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Nice to come back and see great progress. Paint job looks great from Sweden! Was the glazing specced for having wooden frames over the material or are you bolting through? (glass or plastic). Nice trailer, i like beds if i know there is enough depth to float the boat off, but with rollers, it can often be done in much shallower water, i found recovery always easier onto rollers, easy enough to add more if concerns over load pressures. Keep up the good work!

  35. #175
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    Default Re: Gartside 170

    Much appreciated Skara. The glazing technique will be to use a thin tape for the interior side of the 1/4" tempered glass. There will be a small bead of caulking on the exterior side of the glass, followed by wood molding. That molding is pre-finished on all sides and pre-drilled to accept 316 ss brads. The glass won't be installed until most all is complete on the cabin interior. It's just too handy to pass stuff through the openings.

    I hear you regarding trailer rollers. In fact, my only experience with trailer keel support is with rollers albeit with much more lightweight boats. On a couple of occasions we have had roller failures where it became very difficult to properly carry the boat prior to the roller repair (an awkward ramp experience). No moving parts with a bunk. The thinking with this trailer purchase is that I can go into deeper water with the tongue extension and the plastic covering over the bunks is supposed to be a very slippery surface. Time will tell.

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