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Thread: Trailer Hitch

  1. #1
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    Who/where would I go to have a trailer hitch put on a small Japanese (Suzuki 4-dr) sedan? Something that will allow me to tow a few hundred # of boat. Any idea of cost? (No, I can't do it myself - no aptitude and worse, no tools or workspace!)

  2. #2
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    Who/where would I go to have a trailer hitch put on a small Japanese (Suzuki 4-dr) sedan? Something that will allow me to tow a few hundred # of boat. Any idea of cost? (No, I can't do it myself - no aptitude and worse, no tools or workspace!)

  3. #3
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    Who/where would I go to have a trailer hitch put on a small Japanese (Suzuki 4-dr) sedan? Something that will allow me to tow a few hundred # of boat. Any idea of cost? (No, I can't do it myself - no aptitude and worse, no tools or workspace!)

  4. #4
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    Depends on how heavy the trailer is...small boats and small cars can get by with an inexpensive Class I hitch. Make sure you know what size ball your trailer takes...1 7/8" is probably it. A 2" ball generally requires a Class II receiver attached to the frame.

    But I suspect you are under 1000lbs, so a couple hundred bucks for a Class I oughta do it I think...half of that for figuring out your electrics for the lights.

    U-Haul, many muffler shops and Freeway Trailer down in Milton below SEATAC do them.

  5. #5
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    Depends on how heavy the trailer is...small boats and small cars can get by with an inexpensive Class I hitch. Make sure you know what size ball your trailer takes...1 7/8" is probably it. A 2" ball generally requires a Class II receiver attached to the frame.

    But I suspect you are under 1000lbs, so a couple hundred bucks for a Class I oughta do it I think...half of that for figuring out your electrics for the lights.

    U-Haul, many muffler shops and Freeway Trailer down in Milton below SEATAC do them.

  6. #6
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    Depends on how heavy the trailer is...small boats and small cars can get by with an inexpensive Class I hitch. Make sure you know what size ball your trailer takes...1 7/8" is probably it. A 2" ball generally requires a Class II receiver attached to the frame.

    But I suspect you are under 1000lbs, so a couple hundred bucks for a Class I oughta do it I think...half of that for figuring out your electrics for the lights.

    U-Haul, many muffler shops and Freeway Trailer down in Milton below SEATAC do them.

  7. #7
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    Look in the phone book under trailer hitches. If it can be done, there will be outfits who can do it for you for surprisingly little money. I think the class II reciever hitch on my Grand Prix was a little less $200 installed.

  8. #8
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    Look in the phone book under trailer hitches. If it can be done, there will be outfits who can do it for you for surprisingly little money. I think the class II reciever hitch on my Grand Prix was a little less $200 installed.

  9. #9
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    Look in the phone book under trailer hitches. If it can be done, there will be outfits who can do it for you for surprisingly little money. I think the class II reciever hitch on my Grand Prix was a little less $200 installed.

  10. #10
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    First, check your owner's manual for the towing capacity and maximum tongue weight. With luck, it won't say "Not Recommended" and hitches will therefore be available for your vehicle.

    Check the Yellow Pages under "Trailer Hitches" and make a few calls. You'll probably find that prices vary considerably.

    You're looking for a Class I hitch for your vehicle with the right size ball (1 7/8-inch? - check the coupling on your trailer) and you'll also need a 4-pin socket for the plug for the trailer lights. You're probably looking at $100 or a little more, installed.

    Wayne

  11. #11
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    First, check your owner's manual for the towing capacity and maximum tongue weight. With luck, it won't say "Not Recommended" and hitches will therefore be available for your vehicle.

    Check the Yellow Pages under "Trailer Hitches" and make a few calls. You'll probably find that prices vary considerably.

    You're looking for a Class I hitch for your vehicle with the right size ball (1 7/8-inch? - check the coupling on your trailer) and you'll also need a 4-pin socket for the plug for the trailer lights. You're probably looking at $100 or a little more, installed.

    Wayne

  12. #12
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    First, check your owner's manual for the towing capacity and maximum tongue weight. With luck, it won't say "Not Recommended" and hitches will therefore be available for your vehicle.

    Check the Yellow Pages under "Trailer Hitches" and make a few calls. You'll probably find that prices vary considerably.

    You're looking for a Class I hitch for your vehicle with the right size ball (1 7/8-inch? - check the coupling on your trailer) and you'll also need a 4-pin socket for the plug for the trailer lights. You're probably looking at $100 or a little more, installed.

    Wayne

  13. #13
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    Maybe I can buy the hitch at the same time I buy the trailer - whenever that day comes (this was a "for future reference" query - have to keep dreams alive, you know).

  14. #14
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    Maybe I can buy the hitch at the same time I buy the trailer - whenever that day comes (this was a "for future reference" query - have to keep dreams alive, you know).

  15. #15
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    Maybe I can buy the hitch at the same time I buy the trailer - whenever that day comes (this was a "for future reference" query - have to keep dreams alive, you know).

  16. #16
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    U-Haul... At least the one down the street here slapped on on our Ford Aerostar just as if they knew what they were doing.

  17. #17
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    U-Haul... At least the one down the street here slapped on on our Ford Aerostar just as if they knew what they were doing.

  18. #18
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    U-Haul... At least the one down the street here slapped on on our Ford Aerostar just as if they knew what they were doing.

  19. #19
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    U-Haul did a great job for me... the guy let me in the shop to look over his shoulder while he explained how he was hooking up the trailer's light plugs and even installed a rear facing floodlight to the hitch (I had it already) so I could see things better when using the ramp in the early AM or after dark. I don't remember how much it cost (8 years ago), but it was worth it, and none of it has ever given trouble after 3000 miles of trailing a 1000 lb. rig.

    [ 12-23-2003, 06:48 PM: Message edited by: rbgarr ]

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    U-Haul did a great job for me... the guy let me in the shop to look over his shoulder while he explained how he was hooking up the trailer's light plugs and even installed a rear facing floodlight to the hitch (I had it already) so I could see things better when using the ramp in the early AM or after dark. I don't remember how much it cost (8 years ago), but it was worth it, and none of it has ever given trouble after 3000 miles of trailing a 1000 lb. rig.

    [ 12-23-2003, 06:48 PM: Message edited by: rbgarr ]

  21. #21
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    U-Haul did a great job for me... the guy let me in the shop to look over his shoulder while he explained how he was hooking up the trailer's light plugs and even installed a rear facing floodlight to the hitch (I had it already) so I could see things better when using the ramp in the early AM or after dark. I don't remember how much it cost (8 years ago), but it was worth it, and none of it has ever given trouble after 3000 miles of trailing a 1000 lb. rig.

    [ 12-23-2003, 06:48 PM: Message edited by: rbgarr ]

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    What are the actual implications of "not recommended"? The Suzuki is out of warranty, but I don't need car troubles!

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    What are the actual implications of "not recommended"? The Suzuki is out of warranty, but I don't need car troubles!

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    What are the actual implications of "not recommended"? The Suzuki is out of warranty, but I don't need car troubles!

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    If it's one of the little 1000cc 3-cyl or a 1600cc 4-cyl jobs, then you will probably find that towing even the lightest trailer will have serious negative implications for your vehicle's longevity.

    Most sub 2 liter FWD cars sold domestically probably shouldn't tow anything but very light loads for very short distances at very low speeds.

  26. #26
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    If it's one of the little 1000cc 3-cyl or a 1600cc 4-cyl jobs, then you will probably find that towing even the lightest trailer will have serious negative implications for your vehicle's longevity.

    Most sub 2 liter FWD cars sold domestically probably shouldn't tow anything but very light loads for very short distances at very low speeds.

  27. #27
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    If it's one of the little 1000cc 3-cyl or a 1600cc 4-cyl jobs, then you will probably find that towing even the lightest trailer will have serious negative implications for your vehicle's longevity.

    Most sub 2 liter FWD cars sold domestically probably shouldn't tow anything but very light loads for very short distances at very low speeds.

  28. #28
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    I just did an online search for hitches for Suzukis. The only models that show any availability are the Sidekick, the Vitara and Grand Vitara, and the X-90. No one seems to have anything for the Esteem or the Swift. I have to assume that means towing is not recommended for those cars.

    What year and model are you driving?

  29. #29
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    I just did an online search for hitches for Suzukis. The only models that show any availability are the Sidekick, the Vitara and Grand Vitara, and the X-90. No one seems to have anything for the Esteem or the Swift. I have to assume that means towing is not recommended for those cars.

    What year and model are you driving?

  30. #30
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    I just did an online search for hitches for Suzukis. The only models that show any availability are the Sidekick, the Vitara and Grand Vitara, and the X-90. No one seems to have anything for the Esteem or the Swift. I have to assume that means towing is not recommended for those cars.

    What year and model are you driving?

  31. #31
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    Towards 405 in Renton, take a right between the Saturn and Chevrolet dealership, go over the bridge, on the right, next to a wooden pallet shop, its right there. Something?? Truck accessories. Call the chevy dealership, Good Chevrolet, and ask them for the name.425) 235-2000 These guys have everything. Many U-Haul shops will install a hitch on any type of vehicle, also. Let your fingers do the walking. Make some calls.

    You will need oil coolers in some cases, to save your transmission.

    [ 12-23-2003, 08:27 PM: Message edited by: Oyster ]

  32. #32
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    Towards 405 in Renton, take a right between the Saturn and Chevrolet dealership, go over the bridge, on the right, next to a wooden pallet shop, its right there. Something?? Truck accessories. Call the chevy dealership, Good Chevrolet, and ask them for the name.425) 235-2000 These guys have everything. Many U-Haul shops will install a hitch on any type of vehicle, also. Let your fingers do the walking. Make some calls.

    You will need oil coolers in some cases, to save your transmission.

    [ 12-23-2003, 08:27 PM: Message edited by: Oyster ]

  33. #33
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    Towards 405 in Renton, take a right between the Saturn and Chevrolet dealership, go over the bridge, on the right, next to a wooden pallet shop, its right there. Something?? Truck accessories. Call the chevy dealership, Good Chevrolet, and ask them for the name.425) 235-2000 These guys have everything. Many U-Haul shops will install a hitch on any type of vehicle, also. Let your fingers do the walking. Make some calls.

    You will need oil coolers in some cases, to save your transmission.

    [ 12-23-2003, 08:27 PM: Message edited by: Oyster ]

  34. #34
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    I designed my own for my Neon to tow the new Melon Seed Skiff we picked up in North Carolina, then up to Boston, then back to Rockford Illinois.

    It's a receiver hitch, for which I bought and cut the steel, then had a welding shop put together.

    Later used it to tow my Son'e new Hobie-16 from Minneapolis to Milwaukee.

    Doesn't seem to bother my Neon 2-dr Expresso, stick shift none.

    Moby Nick

  35. #35
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    I designed my own for my Neon to tow the new Melon Seed Skiff we picked up in North Carolina, then up to Boston, then back to Rockford Illinois.

    It's a receiver hitch, for which I bought and cut the steel, then had a welding shop put together.

    Later used it to tow my Son'e new Hobie-16 from Minneapolis to Milwaukee.

    Doesn't seem to bother my Neon 2-dr Expresso, stick shift none.

    Moby Nick

  36. #36
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    I designed my own for my Neon to tow the new Melon Seed Skiff we picked up in North Carolina, then up to Boston, then back to Rockford Illinois.

    It's a receiver hitch, for which I bought and cut the steel, then had a welding shop put together.

    Later used it to tow my Son'e new Hobie-16 from Minneapolis to Milwaukee.

    Doesn't seem to bother my Neon 2-dr Expresso, stick shift none.

    Moby Nick

  37. #37
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    You said "a few hundred #." What kind of boat are you planning to trailer? What Suzuki do you have?

    As a point of reference for towing capacity, my old Camry (2-litre, 4-cylinder, 5-speed manual) had a rated capacity of 1000 pounds with 100 pounds tongue weight. I had a Class I receiver put on it for about $65, IIRC, by an independent hitch dealer and I spent another $20 or so on the adapter/socket for the light plug that I installed myself. The lights took a special adapter because the foreign brand car had the separate yellow rear turn signal lights where most US cars do not, and a trailer does not, and so the wiring is different. This was about 10 years ago.

    My trailer is about 200 pounds, the boat another 200, plus a light outboard, oars stowed inside, etc., the whole rig was maybe 500 pounds, tops. I had no problem towing it with my Camry.

    Towing is not recommended with my Honda, even though it has twice the HP. But I have a 3/4-ton truck and towing the boat trailer is a real piece of cake with that.

    If your rig will be within the towing capacity of your car, you should have no major issues. Limiting the rig to 80 percent is a good idea and gives you a margin of error.

    The "Not Recommended" will come into play if your engine/transmission is not up to the task of pulling the extra weight of if it could cause handling/stability issues.

    Be especially careful of towing too much especially if you have an automatic transmission. Like Oyster said, a trailer can cause overheating issues with the transmission, manual or automatic. Towing also puts an extra strain on your braking system, because a light trailer will not have its own brakes. A heavy tongue weight can work like a lever at the rear axle and take weight off the front (steering) wheels. But if you're well within your car's rated limits you should have no worries.

    If you have a car for which towing is not recommended, I wouldn't take the risk unless it's an old beater, in which case a welding shop could fabricate one for you. (It's unlikely you will find a ready-made hitch if towing is not recommended for your car.)

    Wayne

  38. #38
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    You said "a few hundred #." What kind of boat are you planning to trailer? What Suzuki do you have?

    As a point of reference for towing capacity, my old Camry (2-litre, 4-cylinder, 5-speed manual) had a rated capacity of 1000 pounds with 100 pounds tongue weight. I had a Class I receiver put on it for about $65, IIRC, by an independent hitch dealer and I spent another $20 or so on the adapter/socket for the light plug that I installed myself. The lights took a special adapter because the foreign brand car had the separate yellow rear turn signal lights where most US cars do not, and a trailer does not, and so the wiring is different. This was about 10 years ago.

    My trailer is about 200 pounds, the boat another 200, plus a light outboard, oars stowed inside, etc., the whole rig was maybe 500 pounds, tops. I had no problem towing it with my Camry.

    Towing is not recommended with my Honda, even though it has twice the HP. But I have a 3/4-ton truck and towing the boat trailer is a real piece of cake with that.

    If your rig will be within the towing capacity of your car, you should have no major issues. Limiting the rig to 80 percent is a good idea and gives you a margin of error.

    The "Not Recommended" will come into play if your engine/transmission is not up to the task of pulling the extra weight of if it could cause handling/stability issues.

    Be especially careful of towing too much especially if you have an automatic transmission. Like Oyster said, a trailer can cause overheating issues with the transmission, manual or automatic. Towing also puts an extra strain on your braking system, because a light trailer will not have its own brakes. A heavy tongue weight can work like a lever at the rear axle and take weight off the front (steering) wheels. But if you're well within your car's rated limits you should have no worries.

    If you have a car for which towing is not recommended, I wouldn't take the risk unless it's an old beater, in which case a welding shop could fabricate one for you. (It's unlikely you will find a ready-made hitch if towing is not recommended for your car.)

    Wayne

  39. #39
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    You said "a few hundred #." What kind of boat are you planning to trailer? What Suzuki do you have?

    As a point of reference for towing capacity, my old Camry (2-litre, 4-cylinder, 5-speed manual) had a rated capacity of 1000 pounds with 100 pounds tongue weight. I had a Class I receiver put on it for about $65, IIRC, by an independent hitch dealer and I spent another $20 or so on the adapter/socket for the light plug that I installed myself. The lights took a special adapter because the foreign brand car had the separate yellow rear turn signal lights where most US cars do not, and a trailer does not, and so the wiring is different. This was about 10 years ago.

    My trailer is about 200 pounds, the boat another 200, plus a light outboard, oars stowed inside, etc., the whole rig was maybe 500 pounds, tops. I had no problem towing it with my Camry.

    Towing is not recommended with my Honda, even though it has twice the HP. But I have a 3/4-ton truck and towing the boat trailer is a real piece of cake with that.

    If your rig will be within the towing capacity of your car, you should have no major issues. Limiting the rig to 80 percent is a good idea and gives you a margin of error.

    The "Not Recommended" will come into play if your engine/transmission is not up to the task of pulling the extra weight of if it could cause handling/stability issues.

    Be especially careful of towing too much especially if you have an automatic transmission. Like Oyster said, a trailer can cause overheating issues with the transmission, manual or automatic. Towing also puts an extra strain on your braking system, because a light trailer will not have its own brakes. A heavy tongue weight can work like a lever at the rear axle and take weight off the front (steering) wheels. But if you're well within your car's rated limits you should have no worries.

    If you have a car for which towing is not recommended, I wouldn't take the risk unless it's an old beater, in which case a welding shop could fabricate one for you. (It's unlikely you will find a ready-made hitch if towing is not recommended for your car.)

    Wayne

  40. #40
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    Originally posted by Wayne Jeffers:

    Towing also puts an extra strain on your braking system, because a light trailer will not have its own brakes. A heavy tongue weight can work like a lever at the rear axle and take weight off the front (steering) wheels.....

    If you have a car for which towing is not recommended, I wouldn't take the risk unless it's an old beater, in which case a welding shop could fabricate one for you. (It's unlikely you will find a ready-made hitch if towing is not recommended for your car.)

    Wayne
    I think Wayne's onto something here. As far as I know, handling/braking capabilities limit a vehicles "rated" safe towing capacity more than anything else. Having lived the harrowing experience of riding in a vehicle that's being pushed around by its overweight trailer, I suggest you proceed with extreme caution.

    But that's just me. Perhaps one of our european brethren will chime in to shout me down. Towing with small cars seems to be a way of life east of the pond.

  41. #41
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    Originally posted by Wayne Jeffers:

    Towing also puts an extra strain on your braking system, because a light trailer will not have its own brakes. A heavy tongue weight can work like a lever at the rear axle and take weight off the front (steering) wheels.....

    If you have a car for which towing is not recommended, I wouldn't take the risk unless it's an old beater, in which case a welding shop could fabricate one for you. (It's unlikely you will find a ready-made hitch if towing is not recommended for your car.)

    Wayne
    I think Wayne's onto something here. As far as I know, handling/braking capabilities limit a vehicles "rated" safe towing capacity more than anything else. Having lived the harrowing experience of riding in a vehicle that's being pushed around by its overweight trailer, I suggest you proceed with extreme caution.

    But that's just me. Perhaps one of our european brethren will chime in to shout me down. Towing with small cars seems to be a way of life east of the pond.

  42. #42
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    Originally posted by Wayne Jeffers:

    Towing also puts an extra strain on your braking system, because a light trailer will not have its own brakes. A heavy tongue weight can work like a lever at the rear axle and take weight off the front (steering) wheels.....

    If you have a car for which towing is not recommended, I wouldn't take the risk unless it's an old beater, in which case a welding shop could fabricate one for you. (It's unlikely you will find a ready-made hitch if towing is not recommended for your car.)

    Wayne
    I think Wayne's onto something here. As far as I know, handling/braking capabilities limit a vehicles "rated" safe towing capacity more than anything else. Having lived the harrowing experience of riding in a vehicle that's being pushed around by its overweight trailer, I suggest you proceed with extreme caution.

    But that's just me. Perhaps one of our european brethren will chime in to shout me down. Towing with small cars seems to be a way of life east of the pond.

  43. #43
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    So how would a fifty pounds of tongue weight (10-15% of trailer GVW relate to say, a couple of you 200 lb friends in the back seat?

  44. #44
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    So how would a fifty pounds of tongue weight (10-15% of trailer GVW relate to say, a couple of you 200 lb friends in the back seat?

  45. #45
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    So how would a fifty pounds of tongue weight (10-15% of trailer GVW relate to say, a couple of you 200 lb friends in the back seat?

  46. #46
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    1) Lever arm. The force of that tongue weight gets multiplied by the distance between the tongue and the rear axle. the 400lbs of human does not.

    2) Tongue weight, though a factor, isn't the real danger. The real danger is the full inertia of the trailer pushing the car around at speed..... Imagine you're tooling along at a comfy 40mph when some jackass pulls out in front of you. You stomp the brakes and swerve. At that instant, the full weight of that trailer is still proceeding at 40mph, but is PUSHING THE REAR OF THE CAR TO THE SIDE with the advantage of the abovementioned lever arm. Things get ugly really quickly.

  47. #47
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    1) Lever arm. The force of that tongue weight gets multiplied by the distance between the tongue and the rear axle. the 400lbs of human does not.

    2) Tongue weight, though a factor, isn't the real danger. The real danger is the full inertia of the trailer pushing the car around at speed..... Imagine you're tooling along at a comfy 40mph when some jackass pulls out in front of you. You stomp the brakes and swerve. At that instant, the full weight of that trailer is still proceeding at 40mph, but is PUSHING THE REAR OF THE CAR TO THE SIDE with the advantage of the abovementioned lever arm. Things get ugly really quickly.

  48. #48
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    1) Lever arm. The force of that tongue weight gets multiplied by the distance between the tongue and the rear axle. the 400lbs of human does not.

    2) Tongue weight, though a factor, isn't the real danger. The real danger is the full inertia of the trailer pushing the car around at speed..... Imagine you're tooling along at a comfy 40mph when some jackass pulls out in front of you. You stomp the brakes and swerve. At that instant, the full weight of that trailer is still proceeding at 40mph, but is PUSHING THE REAR OF THE CAR TO THE SIDE with the advantage of the abovementioned lever arm. Things get ugly really quickly.

  49. #49
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Guilford Ct
    Posts
    46,600

    Post

    Did I ever tell you the story about the time I helped a friend move his newly purchased 30' Hunter "just down the street" to the launch spot? No? Well..... Let's just say that "just down the street" was really about 6 miles through the center of a busy town, on a Friday, at rush hour.... It's a really good thing that the cop directing traffic at that first intersection was laughing too hard to get in his car and chase me when I got pushed through the intersection....

  50. #50
    Join Date
    Feb 2000
    Location
    Guilford Ct
    Posts
    46,600

    Post

    Did I ever tell you the story about the time I helped a friend move his newly purchased 30' Hunter "just down the street" to the launch spot? No? Well..... Let's just say that "just down the street" was really about 6 miles through the center of a busy town, on a Friday, at rush hour.... It's a really good thing that the cop directing traffic at that first intersection was laughing too hard to get in his car and chase me when I got pushed through the intersection....

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