Oarlocks for the finicky

[Ben Fuller]

Am looking for rowlocks for a new rowing boat. Somewhere a few years ago, I got some size 1 1/2 bronze ones with 1/2" shafts which I like real well but they belong to another boat. I am looking for a tight precise fit in the sockets, possibly using bushings. Top sockets by preference.

Anybody have experience with anything that is out there on the market right now?

Thanks

[Ben Fuller]

Am looking for rowlocks for a new rowing boat. Somewhere a few years ago, I got some size 1 1/2 bronze ones with 1/2" shafts which I like real well but they belong to another boat. I am looking for a tight precise fit in the sockets, possibly using bushings. Top sockets by preference.

Anybody have experience with anything that is out there on the market right now?

Thanks

[Ben Fuller]

Am looking for rowlocks for a new rowing boat. Somewhere a few years ago, I got some size 1 1/2 bronze ones with 1/2" shafts which I like real well but they belong to another boat. I am looking for a tight precise fit in the sockets, possibly using bushings. Top sockets by preference.

Anybody have experience with anything that is out there on the market right now?

Thanks

[Bruce Keefauver]

Hi Ben, The next topic contains a link to a chandlery in the UK which sells oarlocks. Hope this helps. I'm looking to.

[Bruce Keefauver]

Hi Ben, The next topic contains a link to a chandlery in the UK which sells oarlocks. Hope this helps. I'm looking to.

[Bruce Keefauver]

Hi Ben, The next topic contains a link to a chandlery in the UK which sells oarlocks. Hope this helps. I'm looking to.

[Kermit]

You should definately get Shaw and Tenny's catalog. While they are oar and paddle makers, they carry some spiffy oarlocks. And you might try New Found Metals in Port Townsend, Washington.

[Kermit]

You should definately get Shaw and Tenny's catalog. While they are oar and paddle makers, they carry some spiffy oarlocks. And you might try New Found Metals in Port Townsend, Washington.

[Kermit]

You should definately get Shaw and Tenny's catalog. While they are oar and paddle makers, they carry some spiffy oarlocks. And you might try New Found Metals in Port Townsend, Washington.

[Todd Bradshaw]

If worse comes to worse, Bristol Bronze can take a mold from one of your originals (if you still have them) without damaging it and make exact copies.

[Todd Bradshaw]

If worse comes to worse, Bristol Bronze can take a mold from one of your originals (if you still have them) without damaging it and make exact copies.

[Todd Bradshaw]

If worse comes to worse, Bristol Bronze can take a mold from one of your originals (if you still have them) without damaging it and make exact copies.

[Thad]

Ben, have you looked at the oval locks that I use. The smaller size is made for an 1 3/4 inch loom but because of the oval shape there is no slop across the bottom. Their shanks are machined to 1/2 inch. Manganese Bronze. I'd be glad to send you a pair.

[Thad]

Ben, have you looked at the oval locks that I use. The smaller size is made for an 1 3/4 inch loom but because of the oval shape there is no slop across the bottom. Their shanks are machined to 1/2 inch. Manganese Bronze. I'd be glad to send you a pair.

[Thad]

Ben, have you looked at the oval locks that I use. The smaller size is made for an 1 3/4 inch loom but because of the oval shape there is no slop across the bottom. Their shanks are machined to 1/2 inch. Manganese Bronze. I'd be glad to send you a pair.

[Ben Fuller]

Thanks folks,

I had forgotton about Shaw and Tenny and will get their catalog. For me, open horns are a must as I swap oar lengths if it is real gnarly. My old ones also have a eye for the lanyard at the base of the horn like any proper one does, something that can be done with care with a drill press. When you use an existing set as a pattern you will get some shrinkage; this I can get done if I have to up here in Maine. But I am looking to avoid the hassle: machine shop tight fits in the socket is important for potential high milage. Besides it is so nice to row without the rattle in the socket.

[Ben Fuller]

Thanks folks,

I had forgotton about Shaw and Tenny and will get their catalog. For me, open horns are a must as I swap oar lengths if it is real gnarly. My old ones also have a eye for the lanyard at the base of the horn like any proper one does, something that can be done with care with a drill press. When you use an existing set as a pattern you will get some shrinkage; this I can get done if I have to up here in Maine. But I am looking to avoid the hassle: machine shop tight fits in the socket is important for potential high milage. Besides it is so nice to row without the rattle in the socket.

[Ben Fuller]

Thanks folks,

I had forgotton about Shaw and Tenny and will get their catalog. For me, open horns are a must as I swap oar lengths if it is real gnarly. My old ones also have a eye for the lanyard at the base of the horn like any proper one does, something that can be done with care with a drill press. When you use an existing set as a pattern you will get some shrinkage; this I can get done if I have to up here in Maine. But I am looking to avoid the hassle: machine shop tight fits in the socket is important for potential high milage. Besides it is so nice to row without the rattle in the socket.

[Alan D. Hyde]

I have not done any rowing for a long time, but as a boy I rowed a boat with thole pins and thought they worked well.

Alan

[Alan D. Hyde]

I have not done any rowing for a long time, but as a boy I rowed a boat with thole pins and thought they worked well.

Alan

[Alan D. Hyde]

I have not done any rowing for a long time, but as a boy I rowed a boat with thole pins and thought they worked well.

Alan