wingless' 1994 Edey & Duff Custom 11' Rowing / Sailing Dinghy

[wingless]

Here are some images of my recently aquired 1994 Edey & Duff custom 11' rowing / sailing dinghy. This included the Shaw and Tenney spoon oars w/ sewn on leather and the Harding Sails sail. The sail is like new.

This has very nice teak trim and seats.

The floorboards are easy to remove and replace.

There are two Sunbrella storage bags. One for the two-piece mast, boom and sail, another for the centerboard, tiller and rudder. I need to make a cover and an oar bag.

This also has a handy aluminum lawn transportation cart.

This is in great shape. My plan is to clean this up some and use this as the tender for my 380 Searay Sundancer.


Sail Erected





Harding Sails





Carved Transom





Shaw and Tenny Spoon Oars w/ Leathers








Seats, Oars and Storage Bags

[wingless]

Seats, Oars and Storage Bags







Floorboards Removed

[wingless]

Are there any good links showing good ways to care for the teak? I was thinking about using this Star brite teak kit.

[wingless]

Does anyone have any information on this model? I've been unable to locate anything about this boat.

The closest I've found is the Edey & Duff LTD Columbia, but that has a cat rigged sail. Does anyone have information on the LTD Columbia?

[Thorne]

Looks like you'll have a lot of fun in her!

[Nicholas Scheuer]

I have a "good as new" (or should one say "archive quality") E&D Brochure for the Columbia Dinghy around here somewhere.

[photocurio]

hey what a sweetie!

[James McMullen]

I bet you just can't wait to park the SeaRay for the day so you can get out and play in that fun little boat. Smaller boats = bigger adventures.

[wingless]

Thanks for all the nice feedback and the potential brochure images. I am looking forward to spashing this boat. I think this weekend w/ the nephew we'll pop around the canals and the North Atlantic Ocean.

The plan is to bring this along w/ the Searay and use this once anchored. I have some ideas about carrying this on the swim platform that look promising.

The exterior hull gell coat had some blemishes from years of usage. I used my Festool ETS 150/3 Fine Finish Sander w/ my Festool CT22 HEPA Dust Extractor to remove the surface blemishes. The Festool Titan 2 abrasives followed by the Festool Platin 2 abrasives removed all the scratches. This is an incredible tool that does an outstanding job! I highly recommend their products. (The wife was thrilled to have me sanding the new boat in the dining room last night. At least there is almost no mess w/ the vacuum system.)

There are some deeper gouges that will be fixed later.

The drain plug for this boat is in the middle of the hull exterior, near the keel. I polished that bronze during the sanding. Here are some before and after pictures.

[wingless]

The manufacturer covered the teak rub rail w/ this Taylor Made / Perimeter Industries 3/4 Round Gunnel Guard flexible cushion. It has a white woven polyester cover over the heavy duty internal rubber. On my boat it is retained w/ one million screw / washer fasteners. I removed the gunnel guard to permit best access to the teak for care, also to better clean the polyester. The gunnel guard ends are covered w/ leather.

The gelcoat cleaned up very nicely, with the exception of some gouges and blemishes that did not sand out. There is also a crack in the pocket for the tiller. I picked up some material at West Marine last night to fill the crack, the gouges, then match the gelcoat.

The teak cleaner and oil was also purchased for this project.

[wingless]

The crack and gouge repair is progressing nicely. My expectation is that I will be matching / applying new gelcoat over the West Marine Marine Rx Epoxy Repair putty tomorrow. My plan is to spray on several layers of this West Marine Non-Waxed Laminating Gelcoat, followed by a finish layer of this West Marine Waxed Non-Laminating Finish Gelcoat. I am very satisfied w/ the results so far.

This Edey & Duff dinghy has a teak keel board on the aft third of the boat. The bottom edge of that board has usage wear and tear. I would like to screw-on a metal strip, covering the bottom surface of the board, or wrap the bottom and a small part of the sides w/ some metal.

Are there any suggestions for a way to protect the bottom of this keel board?

Are there any links showing a solution similar to the one I need?

[Nicholas Scheuer]

Sorry, wingless, no dice on E&D's Columbia brochure. I found two 3-ring binders with E& brochures, but the Columbia Dinghy was not among them. This s a surpriebecause I worked with E&D at a boat in Minneapolis where they had a Columbia on display and I was sure I'd brought home literature.

As for our Teak skeg question, I'd just let the Teak wear. You can easily replace it when it becomes unsightly. I once asked the long-time owner of Shaw & Tenney, Reagan, about metal tips to protect the blades of the S&T Ash oars in my Dovekie. He advised that the holes for the fasteners securing the tips would weaken the blades more than any damage they'd get from "pushing off" the boat. Heeding his advise, I'd repaint the oar every several years, smoothing off the tips at that time.

[wingless]

Does anyone have any information on this model? I've been unable to locate anything about this boat.

The closest I've found is the Edey & Duff LTD Columbia, but that has a cat rigged sail. Does anyone have information on the Columbia?

I have a "good as new" (or should one say "archive quality") E&D Brochure for the Columbia Dinghy around here somewhere.

Sorry, wingless, no dice on E&D's Columbia brochure. I found two 3-ring binders with E& brochures, but the Columbia Dinghy was not among them. This s a surpriebecause I worked with E&D at a boat in Minneapolis where they had a Columbia on display and I was sure I'd brought home literature.

Thanks very much for trying!

Is mine a Edey & Duff Columbia dinghy?

The link I found decribes a cat rigged sail, but mine is not. Were there different sail options? Is mine modified from standard configuration? Is the link a typo?

[Nicholas Scheuer]

Edey & Duff built all of their boats pretty much one or two at a time, so customizing any particular one would not have been a problem, if the customer made it worth their while.

[wingless]

The gunnel on this dinghy has this Taylor Made / Perimeter Industries 3/4 Round Gunnel Guard flexible cushion covering the exterior teak rub rail.

There is 3/8" of the fiberglass hull against that rub rail, then teak spacers and a inner teak gunnel board.

What is the purpose of this contruction? I have seen this on other boats.

This dinghy does not have any cleats. Is it appropriate to run a line through this gap on these gunnel boards to tie up the boat?

[Nicholas Scheuer]

If you're referring to the gaps along the inner rail, they are definitely intended to let water more easily pour out when you roll the hull up on her beam ends. Canoe built without this feature are a real PITA.

[wingless]

If you're referring to the gaps along the inner rail, they are definitely intended to let water more easily pour out when you roll the hull up on her beam ends. Canoe built without this feature are a real PITA.

Thanks for the information.

Here is a link showing more information on this construction.

[Thorne]

The piece of wood running along the inside of the top edge of the hull (aka gunwale) is called an inwale. The piece of wood running along the outside, if there is one, is called an outwale. See a pattern here? Commonly used on small lightweight wooden boats to stiffen and protect the hull, including my Cosine Wherry.

Here's a photo of the wherry's gunwale from May, when a young rower and strong swell took their toll on my oarlock base. From the outside the names of the layers/pieces are Outwale, Hull, Spacer block, and Inwale.

[wingless]

The crack and gouge repair is progressing nicely. My expectation is that I will be matching / applying new gelcoat over the West Marine Marine Rx Epoxy Repair putty tomorrow. My plan is to spray on several layers of this West Marine Non-Waxed Laminating Gelcoat, followed by a finish layer of this West Marine Waxed Non-Laminating Finish Gelcoat. I am very satisfied w/ the results so far.

The hull has been smoothed and filled.

New gelcoat has been applied. I was unable to spray the gelcoat. I instead used a smooth roller for application.

There was an attempt to match the original color. The new color is a slightly darker shade. This color was created by putting 12 drops of brown and 14 drops of yellow into a quart of white gelcoat.

This image shows part of the hull w/ new gelcoat and the remainder w/ the original color. The gelcoat has bonded nicely to the hull and to the repaired sections.

This Edey & Duff dinghy has a teak keel board on the aft third of the boat.

This image shows the final stages of removing the skeg / keel w/ the attached rudder gudgeon.

[wingless]

Maybe I'm the only one where everything takes waaay longer than expected...

The entire hull now has multiple layers of new gel coat.

The new gel coat was applied w/ a smooth roller. The result was an orange peel finish. There was also specks in the finish, from when the gel coat kicked. I lightly sanded between each layer to remove the specks, but not to remove the orange peel. Also, there were several layers of finish gel coat used and that material requires sanding between layers. That light sanding (between layers) was done by hand, using Festool Titan 2 6" sanding discs, wet.

There were several types of gel coat used, all was white color, tinted as shown below. The majority was the Evercoat Premium Gel-Kote. I put on over a gallon of this material. I also used the West Marine Finish Gel Coat. I put on two quarts of this material, sanding between layers.

The Blair Tornado II Paint Shaker is a VERY handy product. It is great to freshen-up a can of material that has sat around for a while, or to mix-in color as-shown. This gets my strong recommendation. It mixes round or rectangular: gallons; quarts; pints or aerosols.

This Evercoat Gel Coat Document (edit, the manufacturer doesn't provide that document anymore, but there are PDF repositories w/ the document) is the best document I've found w/ information on using gel coat.

Here are my recommendations, to reinforce their information. Ensure sufficient hardener is used. It is better to use too much and be forced to discard material because it has kicked versus not having enough hardener. Ensure the color is spot on between batches. I did not have any luck spraying, so I rolled on the material. The addition of a small amount of acetone into the gel coat, prior to adding hardener, is helpful to get a smooth finish. STOP applying get coat when the material kicks. It is much better to discard material than to attempt to fix problems from using kicked gel coat.

The finish sanding was done using my Festool ETS 150/3 Fine Finish Sander w/ my Festool CT22 HEPA Dust Extractor. The abrasives used were Titan 2, from 100 grit to 3,000 grit, followed by Platin 2, from 500 grit to 4,000 grit.

The end result is an OUTSTANDING shine, w/o even used a speck of compound, polish, or wax yet.


Tint Applied to White Gel Coat


Blair Tornado II Mixing Gel Coat


Multiple Gel Coat Layers Applied - Orange Peel Finish


Gel Coat Sanded Smooth

[wingless]

The transom and port side gel coat have been sanded to remove the orange peel.

The shine is amazing!

Tonight is the starboard side.

Then take care of the teak, followed by assembly. I should be sailing this weekend!


Orange Peel (Unsanded Side) and Smooth / Shiny (Sanded Side)



Sanding Gel Coat w/ Festool ETS150/3



Port Side and Transom - Sanded Shiny

[wingless]

The dinghy was launched this weekend!!!

The gel coat is completed, the teak has been cleaned, brightened, lightly sanded and oiled. It looks great.

The teak was cleaned w/ the West Marine Teak Cleaner / Brightener Kit. A soft wash mitt was used to minimize the impact on the teak, while still providing the cleaning effect.

A light sanding w/ 400 grit made the teak smoother than a baby's butt.

The teak was oiled w/ Amazon's Golden Teak Oil. The first two coats were a blend w/ 25% Amazon's Teak Prep, per the instructions. The third coat was 100% strength.


Before and After Teak Cleaner



Before and After Teak Brightener



Before and After 400 Grit Sanding



First Coat Oiling

[wingless]

Too many images, continued...


Cleaned



Teak Brightened



Teak Sanded w/ 400 Grit



Teak Oiled



Replacement Gunnel Guard Leather End Cap - Cut to Shape and Softening in Water



Replacement Leather End - Stretched and Formed Over Gunnel Guard

[wingless]

My dinghy has a single pulley for the halliard w/ the mounting bracket riveted to the mast. There does not look to be a good way to add a second, to have an independent way to raise either the boom or the sail.

Here is my dinghy w/ the boom raised by the halliard and the sheet holding it down.

It was secure and out-of-the-way for rowing, not too bad to switch for sailing.










Here is an image showing the varnishing of my oars and boom. I was able to use my oarlocks and leathers to suspend the oars from my step ladder, permitting complete access for varnishing.

[wingless]

The boom broke the other day. An examination revealed prior failure and poor repair.

The boom was repaired by removing all the old crud and ineffective repair sealants. The wood was repaired using PC-7 Epoxy paste. The crack and split was opened-up and the epoxy was forced into the gap, using my finger and using a razor blade as a squegee.

The wood was then clamped tight for a day, sanded, then varnished.

The boom has been used several times since the repair and there has not been any issues.


Broken Boom


Old Repair Cleaned-Out


PC-7 Epoxy Forced Into Breaks


Repair Clamped - Port Side


Repair Clamped - Starboard Side

[wingless]

Continued to add additional images.


Sanded, Varnished and Drilled - Starboard Side


Sanded, Varnished and Drilled - Port Side


Boom w/ Mast Bracket Attached

[wingless]

Now that the days are getting short, it is difficult to row or sail w/o running out of daylight.

These LED battery NAV lights were purchased and custom brackets were designed and fabricated so the lamps can be attached w/o drilling holes into the boat. FYI, these are not USCG lights. The angles are wrong.

But, for my usage, these are perfect. They are bright, inexpensive, dual purpose and have a flash mode for usage on the bicycle.

The bracket for the red / green lights has a snug-fitting tab that slides into the gap between the inwale and outwale. These are very secure.

The aft white lamp has a tapered cylindrical bracket that fits into the gudgeon used for the removable rudder.

The removal / installation of the lamps is fast and secure.

Plus, this dinghy is also the tender to my SeaRay. I carry my bicycle in my engine room. These lamps came w/ bicycle brackets, so the red and white lamps will be used when I am riding around town.

[slug]

With teak take a random orbital 80 grit and give the teak a quick sand. Dont try to sand it back to new..just a quick sand. Then wet it down and give it the two part teak cleaner treatment. Once clean and dry seal the teak with sealer..not oil.popular sealers are Teak Wonder and Semco.

For running lights on a utility craft i prefer to mount a bi colour on a one meter tall mast mounted up forward near the stem ..plug the mast in when needed..store when not needed.

[wingless]

The aft white lamp has a tapered cylindrical bracket that fits into the gudgeon used for the removable rudder.

This image shows my aft white lamp w/ the tapered bracket. It fits / works great.

[wingless]

This topic shows the custom storage cover I designed and built.

[wingless]

Here is an image showing the varnishing of my oars and boom. I was able to use my oarlocks and leathers to suspend the oars from my step ladder, permitting complete access for varnishing.

The oar leathers have worn out, so I replaced the leather and buttons w/ new 7-8 oz oil-tanned leather and w/ 1mm waxed polyester twine I purchased on eBay.

The new leather was measured, cut, the thread holes were marked, drilled, the leather was soaked in water, then sewn onto the Shaw and Tenney spoon oars.

The oar shafts are tapered, widest near the grips and narrow near the paddles.

The leather was cut slightly undersized, soaked in water, slid into position, then gripped on very tight once dry.

The buttons are cut so the ends overlap about ½" by cutting them on a very shallow angle, then nailed in-position using all-bronze brads.

[wingless]

[wingless]

Sorry, wingless, no dice on E&D's Columbia brochure. I found two 3-ring binders with E& brochures, but the Columbia Dinghy was not among them. This s a surpriebecause I worked with E&D at a boat in Minneapolis where they had a Columbia on display and I was sure I'd brought home literature.

My neighbor is selling his Edey & Duff Columbia Dinghy and I noticed he had the sales brochure.

These are the cleaned-up scanned images. The high-resolution images are also linked.
















High Resolution Columbia Tender Brochure Page 1

High Resolution Columbia Tender Brochure Page 2

High Resolution Columbia Tender Brochure Page 3

High Resolution Columbia Tender Brochure Page 4

[wingless]

The topic was reworked to replace the PB extortion images w/ Flickr images.

This effort was as-much fun as it appears.

[wingless]

A new member contacted me because he is also a new owner of an Edey & Duff Columbia dinghy.

His dinghy is missing rudder and centerboard parts. This topic is THE reference point for this boat on the Internet, so I was requested for additional images to aid in recreating those parts.

The requested images have been captured and provided.

One point to note is that all the bronze is attached to the teak using mashed bronze rivets.


Rudder and Tiller









Rudder Pintels