Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 123 ... LastLast
Results 36 to 70 of 117

Thread: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

  1. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Finally finished gluing on all the chine strips then made quick work of planing chine bottoms (bottom of boat), transom bottom, and keel bottom to proper frame angles. Need to fill in some rough areas of the chine to stem joint with fairing epoxy. Also have flat spots in the chine curve on both sides near the back of the boat where I didn't get a fair curve around the aft frames. Need to fill in there and fair as well.


  2. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    FL. USA
    Posts
    6,695

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Quote Originally Posted by dmede View Post
    Finally finished gluing on all the chine strips then made quick work of planing chine bottoms (bottom of boat), transom bottom, and keel bottom to proper frame angles. Need to fill in some rough areas of the chine to stem joint with fairing epoxy. Also have flat spots in the chine curve on both sides near the back of the boat where I didn't get a fair curve around the aft frames. Need to fill in there and fair as well.
    It's looking good. The only problem with using the strip method for the chines is it doesn't help set the hook aft. If you opt to do it this way, having no prior experience with these hulls, then it would be best to use a pattern from luan or other cheap underlayment lofted from the table of offsets in the plans. That pattern makes it much more obvious because the pattern nearly (for lack of a better term) "hockey sticks" where it meets the last frame, and consequently, helps reference the transom angle as well. It ends up answering other questions too, such as, where the face of the motor well meets that last frame as well and how much gets planed off etc. When I set mine up in this way, I was also pleased to find out that my stern was at the (35 degrees?) angle specified in the plans with very little need of tweaking by me after the fact.

  3. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Thanks pipfitter.

    I faired in the hook by using a batten to connect cut lines in the chine at each frame then planing to the line (ala the Rowe article, though he does not mention the hook). I'd previously established the hight of the transom relative to the last frame to give me what looks like the right amount of hook. I'll post some pics along the line of the hook in a bit to see what you think.

    From what I can tell the hook is basically established by the "height" offset between the bottom of the transom and frames 13 and 12. The transom is a little "high" towards the bottom, frame 13 is a little "low" and frame 12 is in line with the other aft frames along the strongback.

    I tried the pattern before using the plan offsets and got something that didn't see m to fit correctly. I may have done something wrong in lofting those offsets though. I'm fairly certain I have it close by this method but may try to the pattern again just to verify.

    I'll post hoot pics in a bit.

    - david

  4. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Thanks pipfitter.

    I faired in the hook by using a batten to connect cut lines in the chine at each frame then planing to the line (ala the Rowe article, though he does not mention the hook). I'd previously established the hight of the transom relative to the last frame to give me what looks like the right amount of hook. I'll post some pics along the line of the hook in a bit to see what you think.

    From what I can tell the hook is basically established by the "height" offset between the bottom of the transom and frames 13 and 12. The transom is a little "high" towards the bottom, frame 13 is a little "low" and frame 12 is in line with the other aft frames along the strongback.

    I tried the pattern before using the plan offsets and got something that didn't see m to fit correctly. I may have done something wrong in lofting those offsets though. I'm fairly certain I have it close by this method but may try to the pattern again just to verify.

    I'll post hoot pics in a bit.

    - david
    Last edited by dmede; 08-05-2015 at 06:33 PM. Reason: duplicate

  5. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Not sure how well this shows up, but you should be able to see a slight rise to the transom. It needs to be faired in a bit.





  6. #41
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    FL. USA
    Posts
    6,695

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Quote Originally Posted by dmede View Post
    Not sure how well this shows up, but you should be able to see a slight rise to the transom. It needs to be faired in a bit.
    You do at least have an option. I would hold off painting the bottom until after sea trial. If it will not trim how you wish, you can laminate wedges (they don't have to go all the way to the chines or the well walls) from the last frame aft to optimize the hull's attitude under way. At least you have what looks to be headed in the right direction. If there is to be any trim issues, it may be just on the verge of, depending on your motor, and can always wedge the motor itself as well and perhaps get the best of both worlds with regard to trim and efficiency.

    One thing for certain is, there is a slight learning curve to these hulls in use, but once you grow into it, I think you will find it quite formidable, or pleasant, in just about any condition you dare to be out in. I can't imagine trading mine for anything else for my intended purpose.

    Ellis reported here that he had issues with trim with his build. IMO, the article did not address the hook enough and IIRC, he all but omitted it thinking it an error.

    I will try to get a photo this weekend of mine against a straight edge at the chine from the frame ahead of the motor well aft and measure it at the frame that is at the face of the well as a reference to see where we are at comparatively.

  7. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Would love to see a good level side shot of the hook on your boat, I think that would help with comparison. From what I've seen in other pics the hook is pretty slight and hard to see from certain angles. I'm hoping I have it close.

    Although Ellis does not talk about the hook in his plans, I've been building to include it. I'm basically hybridizing the build between the Ellis article and Dave Carnell's plans. The frame set up in Dave's plans seemed to create the hook naturally by setting the "bottom" edge of frame 13 slightly below the rest of the aft frames and setting the bottom of the transom just above them, It creates a slight tuck that then curves back up to the hook at the end of the bottom.

  8. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,391

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    A shot further away at and around ground level will probably be a better gauge to your current shape. I would say that on a running level line, one inch from the frame forward of the well transom and the transom with the slight deadrise cut on it would work out fine for the 18.
    WBF=DNC Annex

  9. #44
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Hey erster, do you mean the height offset between the bottom of the transom and the frame at the motor mount should be 1"?



    I don't think I have that. That seems like a big offset, I'll have to check what I have and re try the pattern from the plan offsets. I hope I haven't screwed this up too much.

    My transom bottom is cut to the same deadrise as the last frame and then set slightly higher then a fair line run off the last frames, maybe 1/2"higher at the most. I'll need to check all this at home later. Have either of you found that same dip at that last frame that I did from Carnell's plans? I double checked his offsets and he has is the last frame dip between the prior frame and the transom, creating a hollow that I interpreted as the beginning of the hook. But my transom bottom only rises back to maybe just above the level line before that dip.


  10. #45
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    When I see boat pics with more hook than this it also seems like they have no deadrise in the transom bottom, exaggerating the hook. Looking back MaMs bottom pics I see that he shows more hook than I do, but I also see no dead rise cut into his transom, which seems like a mistake to me. Thoughts?

    http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...60#post2307260

    http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...72#post2388772

    http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...53#post2399153

  11. #46
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Took some measurements and a few more pics. The transom is definitely lower than I thought, it's basically in line with a level line off the last few frames except the last frame at the motor mount, which sits lower per the plans. There is a roughly 1/4" offset between frame 13 and the transom, creating what looks like the hook to my eye, but it's not as big a hook as I had set up with the batten before starting to plane the transom dead rise. I must have messed something up.



    I previously got out the bottom plank per the plan offsets but when I used it before found it was way off from what I had in my set up. After checking the numbers I convinced myself that my frames and strong back were set up correctly so the plank pattern must be wrong. I re checked the patter numbers and they match the plans, but when I mount the pattern to the boat level with the last few frames and ending at the mark on my transom for the top of the plank I get a HUGE hook. No way that is correct right?




  12. #47
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,391

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    From a distance it looks like the transom got positioned a bit lower on the horizontal plane. Look at the drawn line on your pattern too. Its really easy to get some differences thru the entire running length of the chines as it relates to the horizontal plane. If this was mine I would just add a small wedge to the top of the beveled chine and framing leading towards the transom, certainly not to the amount that's shown on the back side of the pattern though. But short of that you can continue on building the bottom as is, since you do have some hook there and then tweak the well area and angle with well plates or just add some additional engine angle to the back side of the motor well transom between the engine brackets. We really do not know how the boat will balance out with weight. There was a builder in Maryland that used a larger and heavier engine that I just helped him with and he is very satisfied with his final product now after running it for a year and dealing with too much nose up.

    Keep in mind that with power trim and tilt you do loose some engine angle and prop angle to push the boat with the operating trim motor from the outboards that had none from the days of old too. And yes the article and build that was generated for the magazine has caused numerous problems for builders of the 18 that forgo the hook completely, and we continue to deal with that. Nice work anyway....
    Last edited by erster; 08-07-2015 at 07:09 AM.
    WBF=DNC Annex

  13. #48
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    To some extent I think these pics I'm posting are not doing a good job of showing the real lines. Feel like "stopping by" California for a closer look? ; )

    There is some hook in my set up, but less than I would have thought. Still, looking at MaMs old pics, his transom bottom looks like it had no deadrise and an exaggerated hook. I don't see how the plank pattern can be relied on to set the hook as it is obviously incorrect (I've checked mine against plan offsets 3 or 4 times now).

    I must have needed to attach the whole motor well and transom set-up higher but assumed the alignment of the motor-well bottom and the bottom of frame 13 would set the correct height for fairing in. But I think my transom angle is correct. And my motor mount angle has been increased to account for modern power tilt motors. So maybe just a thin shim along the transom bottom edge and a set of small wedges along the chines and the motor well sides. I think the pattern pic above shows close to an inch of difference between pattern and transom. Based on that I'm thinking 1/4" lift is probably all I need? But I'm worried about guessing and putting in a hook that drives the nose down too much at speed.

    Very frustrating. I just need to get past the hook and I think it will be smooth sailing. I've been concerned about the lack of details in both Dave and Ellis's plans on this. Dave at least mentions it, but has no concrete details on how to set it properly. I think the WB articles are good for other design and construction details but I've always intended to include the hook per the original design. Just need better info to set it up correctly.

    - d

  14. #49
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,391

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Well when two people cut the pattern from the plan numbers, its really easy to get some slight differences when running a batten along the cut marks at the stations across the running length. I know that MAM had some issues when he originally ran his boat, almost dumping him out with what may have been too much hook in it. This would make it run too flat and cause the boat to bow steer. I also know that he could not really experiment with any power trim and tilt as his motor did not have it either.

    So this is why I say that since you already have some hook in the glued up arrangement, some tweaks can take place after you finish the boat and get a few sea trials on it, if for some reason you do not have enough hook in the bottom or it does not work for your particular loading or trim angle..

    So if you take what you say is one inch additional pattern measurement showing and add to it the current amount that you have in it now, from where I sit that's going to be way too much. I need to look back on the plans. But I think there is about 3/4" transom angle across the sides of the well to the chines. So if you discount that and add back to what you have now, this further reduces the space that's showing on your pattern too. Its all about the horizontal plane forward, added to the amount that you have removed from the transom. Loading of these boats and the interior components being completely different for everyone that's built them varies and can also change your trim angle, coupled with the size of motor pushing the finished product..


    And for sure the third stage of building takes place after you get it in the water. I don't know what else to tell you about the well unit angle in the set up. But if you look at the stiff knees that's clamped along side of the motor well, that also could have adjusted the unit up or down and given you the additional amount that you needed, even though now everything is glued up. So I say plank it and move along before you create yourself more work that may not be needed if you do not trim out correctly I would not be frustrated at this point. You are part of the way there even though it may not seem to be that way. Oh course if you want to take a sawzall and cut the transom and well unit loose from the chines, it will move up and raise it about 1/2" at the transom, then by all means for it. Its not that hard to do.
    WBF=DNC Annex

  15. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    I have some 1/8" luan for patterns laying around. I'm going to cut out a piece to fit the back quarter of the bottom and tack it don temporarily to see what the hook I have really looks like planked up. I think that will tell me if I need to add anything now or just move on. A slight 1/8" rise in the transom bottom profile might be good insurance.

    My boat will have power tilt and trim on a 20hp Tohatsu (or similar). So not too heavy in the back. I'll have no rear thwart, a split set of open seats in the middle with a light helm to right and a fully enclosed front thwart with battery and built in fuel (ala the Rowe design). This probably places shifts some of the typical weight in one of these boats forward a bit.

  16. #51
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Hey pipe fitter, if you do get a chance to take a pic of your rear quarter and hook against a level line that would be great. I'd love something like that to compare against what I'm doing.

    Thanks!

    David

  17. #52
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Planned to garb 3 sheets of ply for planking bottom and forst set of planks this weekend but supplier was out, the order is on its way. So I mocked up the side and bottom around the rear quarter area to see the hook and check my adjustments. The rise from the last frame at the front of the motor well to the bottom of the transom is about 5/16" here. This looks ok to me and minus any other details on the hook in the plans I think I need to move on.

    Hoping to have the plywood in hand by next weekend.






  18. #53
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,391

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    So how is your boat coming along? Any updates? I think your setup will be okay. FWIW We are in the process of creating plans for the 20 low side, which was never done. This will complete the loop of all of Mr. Simmons commonly built models. And yes the hook will be more detailed and defined in hopes that less confusion will be created. Of course builders still will find that their setup can and may create some various.
    Last edited by erster; 11-01-2015 at 06:14 AM.
    WBF=DNC Annex

  19. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    FL. USA
    Posts
    6,695

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Dmede, I think I answered you via PM but the hook you show in the photos looks very close to my own and I can tell that it will work. It is at least close enough to the fine tuning range, and at the worst, some minor shimming/wedging of the outboard motor itself, which is sometimes needed anyway, even if the hook is exact to the originals. Just the weight and trim variables between modern engines and their ancestors can change the effect of the hook.

    Mine works perfectly for center console and two average weight adults or when I am alone in it as well, which is what I chose the boat for initially. The only slight difference in trim, is the degree that is stolen from the engine bracket for the power tilt unit but it is so close, that it isn't worth messing with.

  20. #55
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    FL. USA
    Posts
    6,695

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Quote Originally Posted by erster View Post
    So how is your boat coming along? Any updates? I think your setup will be okay. FWIW We are in the process of creating plans for the 20 low side, which was never done. This will complete the loop of all of Mr. Simmons commonly built models. And yes the hook will be more detailed and defined in hopes that less confusion will be created. Of course builders still will find that their setup can and may create some various.
    The low sided 20 is the boat that made me choose the 18. I then bought the plans for the wider 20 and was going to build the low sided version in essence of my 18. Glad to see you are documenting the original low side. Hopefully you get to sea trial the end result of your rebuild so we can find out how it performs.

  21. #56
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Quote Originally Posted by pipefitter View Post
    Dmede, I think I answered you via PM but the hook you show in the photos looks very close to my own and I can tell that it will work. It is at least close enough to the fine tuning range, and at the worst, some minor shimming/wedging of the outboard motor itself, which is sometimes needed anyway, even if the hook is exact to the originals. Just the weight and trim variables between modern engines and their ancestors can change the effect of the hook.

    Mine works perfectly for center console and two average weight adults or when I am alone in it as well, which is what I chose the boat for initially. The only slight difference in trim, is the degree that is stolen from the engine bracket for the power tilt unit but it is so close, that it isn't worth messing with.
    Thanks for the assessment. It certainly helps with my confidence going forward. On Ersters advice I added 1* or so of angle to the transom to help accommodate the power tilt. Hopefully that will be enough and along with the hook I have put me in a spot where I can fine tune with the engine tilt.

    I am right now preparing to cut gains on the 1st plank and then rough cut the 2nd plank. I've come back in to check my notes on lap depth (1" or 1.25") and how to cut the gains. Rowe cuts half lap gains, I'm used to cutting full depth gains to simplify the process. Going to see what Dave wrote for his plans. Let me know how you did yours.\

    David

  22. #57
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Looking back over old posts and the plans I confirmed 1.25" laps (seems better for frameless construction and will create a wider shear plank). I also opted for the half laps. Dave had it that way as well and it will be less likely to break when clamping to glue at stem. Also, with a router jig setup to cut the gains it is a LOT less work than by hand! First plank is hung and glue is drying. 2nd should go up next week, if the rain keeps away.

  23. #58
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    FL. USA
    Posts
    6,695

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Quote Originally Posted by dmede View Post
    Looking back over old posts and the plans I confirmed 1.25" laps (seems better for frameless construction and will create a wider shear plank). I also opted for the half laps. Dave had it that way as well and it will be less likely to break when clamping to glue at stem. Also, with a router jig setup to cut the gains it is a LOT less work than by hand! First plank is hung and glue is drying. 2nd should go up next week, if the rain keeps away.

    I used 1.25" laps and there was a reason for it that I cannot recall. I think it had to do with the reveal of the sheer plank face 'with' the rub rail installed looking more even. I also used the half laps on the gains and it was a snap to do.

    Glad to hear you are making process. Erster's recommendation to add a degree to the transom is a good idea.

  24. #59
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Bottom is glassed and almost filled. I'll apply a filler coat next then sand all smooth and fair.

    While I'm at work and unable to work on the boat I fiddle with my layout schematics. I had been playing with various cross seat layouts (full width benches, split bench behind side console, full bench in front, even a center console). None of them were hitting the sweet spot for comfort, ease of movement, stowage, and open space on deck for gear. Then I saw a pic of relatively small open boat with a beautiful V berth and side console layout from Pease Boatworks:



    I fiddled with my layout layout schematic to match and I think I have something that will work. It's hard to model the clearances and dimensions needed until the boat is flipped and I can make templates but I really like the overall idea of a V berth up front. There would be enough room for the wife and two kids to sit and lounge, good stowage under the benches, and an open deck aft. The best part is a clear walk from fore to aft, no shin bangers! I suspect this will be tighter in real life than it appears here but we're a small family (I'm the biggest of us at 5'8" and 150# wet) and can get by with tighter spaces.


  25. #60
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Minor progress. Filled weave on fiberglass with 3 or so coats straight epoxy, then topped off with a thin (as in loose) coat of epoxy and fairing filler. The filler coat did a great job filling the pin holes and leveling the weave. Just need to do the same for the side planks and a few other spots, final sand then prep for paint (after I figure out what color and what type).




  26. #61
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Got out the shoe yesterday. It's clear Doug Fir. Sides are angled in from 1.5" to 3/4" and 1.25" tall. Applied a little steam and bent the fore end in place. Will cut the end at the transom to a slight angle and just inside the small radius along that edge. To be bedded in 3m 5200.

    Once this is on (and epoxy saturated and sanded) I'm ready to move on to painting the bottom.






  27. #62
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    hood river oregon rgods4@msn.com
    Posts
    52

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    lookin sweet! I've been following you build since beginning. I was very interested in the Forum exchanges about your Hook. It seems all so straight forward, yet, when I reached that stage with my 22 footer, it all at once seemed so vague and ethereal. I fussed and messed with it, and finally decided that the boat was showing me the way it had to be so I did what the boat showed. It seems kinda swoopier (more hook) than I thot it would be, but who was I to argue? Enjoying your build, so keep on building and building well !

  28. #63
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,391

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Dave, you need to cut that skeg back a bit from the motor well, say about three inches and taper it approx. 6 inches at minimum. Looks great, quality workmanship indeed!
    WBF=DNC Annex

  29. #64
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Quote Originally Posted by erster View Post
    Dave, you need to cut that skeg back a bit from the motor well, say about three inches and taper it approx. 6 inches at minimum. Looks great, quality workmanship indeed!
    Yikes, I just set this in 5200 over the weekend before seeing your post. I cut it back about 1/2" and gave it a slight angle to bow. Is it in the way of the motor or just a water flow issue?

  30. #65
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,391

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Well do the best you can, making the taper a bit longer. I see a fastener there. If you can get it out, maybe after you taper it, just move the hole forward and counterbore it, setting a new one. You don't want disturbed water running off and into the wheel area, especially in hard turns too.
    WBF=DNC Annex

  31. #66
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Quote Originally Posted by erster View Post
    Well do the best you can, making the taper a bit longer. I see a fastener there. If you can get it out, maybe after you taper it, just move the hole forward and counterbore it, setting a new one. You don't want disturbed water running off and into the wheel area, especially in hard turns too.
    I plugged the fasteners yesterday but only with wood glue so should be able to get it out no problem. The taper I assume is in height not width, so reducing the overall height of the skeg as it approaches the well. Should it taper to flush with bottom or is a small step at the end ok?

    I'll see what looks cleanest. I may be able to cut out a short section without too much hacking. Or I could just run a longer taper down to a very small step at the end as it is now.

  32. #67
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    US
    Posts
    3,391

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Its very rare that we ever use skegs larger than 3/4" high x 1 1/4" wide. But no you don't need to taper that width horizontally. When we glass the bottom, we normally put a glass shoe on it using biaxal cloth and pull a fillet along the edges and tape it to the bottom. We do the fillets and tab before we do the glass show. I tape the glassed over fillet with duct tape, which keeps resin from running down and then having to resand the filleted section and glass. Then just sand the edge, easing the glass and then prime and paint it. Yu don't have to, but this is the method that is fairly common with the glassed over bottom.
    Last edited by erster; 08-16-2016 at 06:01 PM.
    WBF=DNC Annex

  33. #68
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    East Quogue,NY
    Posts
    14,676

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Looks great.

    You can de-bond the 5200 by wrapping some wire around a couple ofd dowels and pulling it between the keel and the bottom. To remove the residue, will require some tedious scraping, and some solvent.

    Kevin
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  34. #69
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Got a good start on marking out the new shoe profile...


    then this happened...


    after I cleared the pests away was able to finish this off in a few minutes...




    I consider this a shoe more than a skeg (but what do I know). I placed it over the glassed hull because I like the cleaner lines versus the soft edges the cloth would need. Having more experience with traditional planking (less epoxy) I have this need to see certain pieces be replaceable, in theory at least. I beach my boats on coarse sand and pebbly beaches a lot so I'm assuming the shoe will see some wear over the years. Maybe the cloth makes that all pointless though. Anyway, thanks for the heads up!

  35. #70
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area - Redwood City
    Posts
    2,351

    Default Re: New build: Simmons Sea Skiff 18'

    Here's the skeg from my current boat, Olallie, for comparison...


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •