Best Epoxy Sysytem?

[Garrett Lowell]

I wanted to bump this up, and see if there is any new input, as this thread was started over three years ago.

[Paul H]

How to define best, that is a tough one. I have little experience with boat building epoxies, just 15 gallons on my Tolman Skiff, with another or so needed to completed.

Here were my thoughts on how I chose the epoxy I did. Proven track record, I wanted a system that had been on the market for some time, so that I had confidance nothing weird would happen with the resin down the road. Mixing ratios not overly critical or difficult, I don't want something that has to be accurate within a few percent or you loose massive strength. Low price, I figured $30-35 a gallon was in the ball park of reasonable price.

I chose System III, they've been around for awhile, I've had no problems to date, and the price for a 15 gallon kit isn't that bad. I don't know if it is the best, but I have no plans to change.

[Paul H]

How to define best, that is a tough one. I have little experience with boat building epoxies, just 15 gallons on my Tolman Skiff, with another or so needed to completed.

Here were my thoughts on how I chose the epoxy I did. Proven track record, I wanted a system that had been on the market for some time, so that I had confidance nothing weird would happen with the resin down the road. Mixing ratios not overly critical or difficult, I don't want something that has to be accurate within a few percent or you loose massive strength. Low price, I figured $30-35 a gallon was in the ball park of reasonable price.

I chose System III, they've been around for awhile, I've had no problems to date, and the price for a 15 gallon kit isn't that bad. I don't know if it is the best, but I have no plans to change.

[Paul H]

How to define best, that is a tough one. I have little experience with boat building epoxies, just 15 gallons on my Tolman Skiff, with another or so needed to completed.

Here were my thoughts on how I chose the epoxy I did. Proven track record, I wanted a system that had been on the market for some time, so that I had confidance nothing weird would happen with the resin down the road. Mixing ratios not overly critical or difficult, I don't want something that has to be accurate within a few percent or you loose massive strength. Low price, I figured $30-35 a gallon was in the ball park of reasonable price.

I chose System III, they've been around for awhile, I've had no problems to date, and the price for a 15 gallon kit isn't that bad. I don't know if it is the best, but I have no plans to change.

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks Paul, for your input. I'm probably going to go with System III, then, unless somebody has something else to say.

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks Paul, for your input. I'm probably going to go with System III, then, unless somebody has something else to say.

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks Paul, for your input. I'm probably going to go with System III, then, unless somebody has something else to say.

[Paul H]

The only thing I've heard potentially negative about Sys III, and it was third hand, is that it can turn cloudy on clear finished boats. This was from a friend who builds Kayaks, and hasn't personally used Sys III. I don't know if it was an issue with the resin, or the person who applied it.

I'd venture to say that there have been a fair number of clear finished boats that have been built with Sys III, and a problem with clouding would be well known.

As I noted in my previous post, I can't say that Sys III is the best resin, it just seemed to best match my criteria. I wouldn't doubt that many of the other products on the market would work as well. Then I think about the overall time and money I'm putting into my boat, over 1 year of spare time and over $20k on the finished deal. Then I think about maybe saving $100-200 on some of the newer epoxys and I don't see it as worth the risk. I'd rather use a cheaper paint.

If I was just banging out a small boat for the experience and rough service, potentially short life, then I'd use the cheapest epoxy I could get.

[Paul H]

The only thing I've heard potentially negative about Sys III, and it was third hand, is that it can turn cloudy on clear finished boats. This was from a friend who builds Kayaks, and hasn't personally used Sys III. I don't know if it was an issue with the resin, or the person who applied it.

I'd venture to say that there have been a fair number of clear finished boats that have been built with Sys III, and a problem with clouding would be well known.

As I noted in my previous post, I can't say that Sys III is the best resin, it just seemed to best match my criteria. I wouldn't doubt that many of the other products on the market would work as well. Then I think about the overall time and money I'm putting into my boat, over 1 year of spare time and over $20k on the finished deal. Then I think about maybe saving $100-200 on some of the newer epoxys and I don't see it as worth the risk. I'd rather use a cheaper paint.

If I was just banging out a small boat for the experience and rough service, potentially short life, then I'd use the cheapest epoxy I could get.

[Paul H]

The only thing I've heard potentially negative about Sys III, and it was third hand, is that it can turn cloudy on clear finished boats. This was from a friend who builds Kayaks, and hasn't personally used Sys III. I don't know if it was an issue with the resin, or the person who applied it.

I'd venture to say that there have been a fair number of clear finished boats that have been built with Sys III, and a problem with clouding would be well known.

As I noted in my previous post, I can't say that Sys III is the best resin, it just seemed to best match my criteria. I wouldn't doubt that many of the other products on the market would work as well. Then I think about the overall time and money I'm putting into my boat, over 1 year of spare time and over $20k on the finished deal. Then I think about maybe saving $100-200 on some of the newer epoxys and I don't see it as worth the risk. I'd rather use a cheaper paint.

If I was just banging out a small boat for the experience and rough service, potentially short life, then I'd use the cheapest epoxy I could get.

[Wild Wassa]

BoatCraft Pacific's Bote-Cote as my a normal epoxy and CPES as a thinned epoxy and rot stopper. Both seem to work well.

Bote-Cote, is non-blushing, has a good comprehensive system, with a good range of hardeners and fillers.

Bote-Cote is sold in the US.

Warren.

[Wild Wassa]

BoatCraft Pacific's Bote-Cote as my a normal epoxy and CPES as a thinned epoxy and rot stopper. Both seem to work well.

Bote-Cote, is non-blushing, has a good comprehensive system, with a good range of hardeners and fillers.

Bote-Cote is sold in the US.

Warren.

[Wild Wassa]

BoatCraft Pacific's Bote-Cote as my a normal epoxy and CPES as a thinned epoxy and rot stopper. Both seem to work well.

Bote-Cote, is non-blushing, has a good comprehensive system, with a good range of hardeners and fillers.

Bote-Cote is sold in the US.

Warren.

[RodB]

I don't think you can go wrong using System III.

My boat's designer has built over 60 boats and he uses and recommends System III. I have used over 20 gallons of Sys III with all three hardeners and am quite satisfied with the versatility and quality in a broad range of conditons. I am quite confident in mixing for different conditions and uses and almost always hit the right amount of working time I require from 45-99 degrees.

I also gleaned a massive amount of info from him on using and applying epoxy for boat building and have learned some great techniques.

I have considered using MAS low viscosity for saturating my Dynel covered deck leaving a nice texture. (I saw a pro deck produced with it and it was the nicest sailboat textured deck I've ever seen.

The System III low viscosity is twice as expensive as their standard resin. MAS is about 15% cheaper. I guess the kayak builders spend lots for their clear finish.

Good luck,

RB

[ 05-21-2004, 01:21 AM: Message edited by: RodB ]

[RodB]

I don't think you can go wrong using System III.

My boat's designer has built over 60 boats and he uses and recommends System III. I have used over 20 gallons of Sys III with all three hardeners and am quite satisfied with the versatility and quality in a broad range of conditons. I am quite confident in mixing for different conditions and uses and almost always hit the right amount of working time I require from 45-99 degrees.

I also gleaned a massive amount of info from him on using and applying epoxy for boat building and have learned some great techniques.

I have considered using MAS low viscosity for saturating my Dynel covered deck leaving a nice texture. (I saw a pro deck produced with it and it was the nicest sailboat textured deck I've ever seen.

The System III low viscosity is twice as expensive as their standard resin. MAS is about 15% cheaper. I guess the kayak builders spend lots for their clear finish.

Good luck,

RB

[ 05-21-2004, 01:21 AM: Message edited by: RodB ]

[RodB]

I don't think you can go wrong using System III.

My boat's designer has built over 60 boats and he uses and recommends System III. I have used over 20 gallons of Sys III with all three hardeners and am quite satisfied with the versatility and quality in a broad range of conditons. I am quite confident in mixing for different conditions and uses and almost always hit the right amount of working time I require from 45-99 degrees.

I also gleaned a massive amount of info from him on using and applying epoxy for boat building and have learned some great techniques.

I have considered using MAS low viscosity for saturating my Dynel covered deck leaving a nice texture. (I saw a pro deck produced with it and it was the nicest sailboat textured deck I've ever seen.

The System III low viscosity is twice as expensive as their standard resin. MAS is about 15% cheaper. I guess the kayak builders spend lots for their clear finish.

Good luck,

RB

[ 05-21-2004, 01:21 AM: Message edited by: RodB ]

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks everyone, and keep it coming. This is the first time I've heard of Bote-Cote. I have to check that out. And RodB, you have to include a pic when talk about your boat!

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks everyone, and keep it coming. This is the first time I've heard of Bote-Cote. I have to check that out. And RodB, you have to include a pic when talk about your boat!

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks everyone, and keep it coming. This is the first time I've heard of Bote-Cote. I have to check that out. And RodB, you have to include a pic when talk about your boat!

[BrianY]

Regarding the clarity of System III and other epoxies:

Take a look at http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Epoxtest.htm

The guy made a test panel of wood strips (as in a strip built kayak) coated it with six diffent epoxies (West, Sys. III, Raka, MAS, etc.) He then partially coated each section the test panel with spar varnish, left part of each section without varnish, and covered the remaining portion to exclude light/UV. He left the panel out in the New England weather for a year and observed how the epoxies held up. All in all, a very informative test.

[BrianY]

Regarding the clarity of System III and other epoxies:

Take a look at http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Epoxtest.htm

The guy made a test panel of wood strips (as in a strip built kayak) coated it with six diffent epoxies (West, Sys. III, Raka, MAS, etc.) He then partially coated each section the test panel with spar varnish, left part of each section without varnish, and covered the remaining portion to exclude light/UV. He left the panel out in the New England weather for a year and observed how the epoxies held up. All in all, a very informative test.

[BrianY]

Regarding the clarity of System III and other epoxies:

Take a look at http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Epoxtest.htm

The guy made a test panel of wood strips (as in a strip built kayak) coated it with six diffent epoxies (West, Sys. III, Raka, MAS, etc.) He then partially coated each section the test panel with spar varnish, left part of each section without varnish, and covered the remaining portion to exclude light/UV. He left the panel out in the New England weather for a year and observed how the epoxies held up. All in all, a very informative test.

[Mike Field]

.
Bote-Cote

[Mike Field]

.
Bote-Cote

[Mike Field]

.
Bote-Cote

[JimD]

All the big names are high quality. I've used a few including West. Lately I'm partial to Raka since the 350 hardener produces next to no blush. I've never had a cratering problem with it. Also, if you'll be placing a reasonably large order Raka's bulk discounts probably make it the cheapest, too. I had it shipped to Canada from Florida and even after the poor exchange rate on the Canadian $, the shipping and brokerage fees, it was still less expensive than anything I could buy locally.

[JimD]

All the big names are high quality. I've used a few including West. Lately I'm partial to Raka since the 350 hardener produces next to no blush. I've never had a cratering problem with it. Also, if you'll be placing a reasonably large order Raka's bulk discounts probably make it the cheapest, too. I had it shipped to Canada from Florida and even after the poor exchange rate on the Canadian $, the shipping and brokerage fees, it was still less expensive than anything I could buy locally.

[JimD]

All the big names are high quality. I've used a few including West. Lately I'm partial to Raka since the 350 hardener produces next to no blush. I've never had a cratering problem with it. Also, if you'll be placing a reasonably large order Raka's bulk discounts probably make it the cheapest, too. I had it shipped to Canada from Florida and even after the poor exchange rate on the Canadian $, the shipping and brokerage fees, it was still less expensive than anything I could buy locally.

[paul oman]

Do a google search for marine epoxy, marine epoxies, epoxy resins, etc. and you'll see all your options.

paul

[paul oman]

Do a google search for marine epoxy, marine epoxies, epoxy resins, etc. and you'll see all your options.

paul

[paul oman]

Do a google search for marine epoxy, marine epoxies, epoxy resins, etc. and you'll see all your options.

paul

[RodB]

Garrett,

FYI

RB

[RodB]

Garrett,

FYI

RB

[RodB]

Garrett,

FYI

RB

[Aramas]

I've only used Bote-Cote and West, and of the two I prefer Bote-Cote. No blush, 2:1 and compatible with just about anything. West seems overly fussy. My wood-mashing habits are somewhat less than of surgical standard.

For fillers I took the advice of local boatwrights and used colloidal silica and q-cell (expanded quartz aka microballonons), both bought in bulk. On the advice of the same boatwrights, for structural joins and fillets I used around 80/20 (by volume) colloidal silica/q-cell. The q-cell makes the mix slippery and easier to apply and get a good finish.

[Aramas]

I've only used Bote-Cote and West, and of the two I prefer Bote-Cote. No blush, 2:1 and compatible with just about anything. West seems overly fussy. My wood-mashing habits are somewhat less than of surgical standard.

For fillers I took the advice of local boatwrights and used colloidal silica and q-cell (expanded quartz aka microballonons), both bought in bulk. On the advice of the same boatwrights, for structural joins and fillets I used around 80/20 (by volume) colloidal silica/q-cell. The q-cell makes the mix slippery and easier to apply and get a good finish.

[Aramas]

I've only used Bote-Cote and West, and of the two I prefer Bote-Cote. No blush, 2:1 and compatible with just about anything. West seems overly fussy. My wood-mashing habits are somewhat less than of surgical standard.

For fillers I took the advice of local boatwrights and used colloidal silica and q-cell (expanded quartz aka microballonons), both bought in bulk. On the advice of the same boatwrights, for structural joins and fillets I used around 80/20 (by volume) colloidal silica/q-cell. The q-cell makes the mix slippery and easier to apply and get a good finish.