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Thread: Question for the Chris Craft Experts

  1. #1
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    I have a 1959 Chris Craft Conqueror. The finish (looks like a varnish, but I think it may be Cetol) on the deck is beginning to peel, so it's time to strip and refinish.

    Yes, if I can get my hands on some Colean I'll try that... but I'm not heading to England soon, and I left my Toplicht catalog in Annapolis.

    That said, in looking at the deck, I've noticed that every third seam is a polysulfide of some sort, but the other seams look to be painted on. In other words, what it looks like is that the planks are actually close to four inches wide, but paint has been used to give the appearance of inch and a quarter planks.

    So my question for the experts is, what sort of paint (if it is in fact paint) should I use? I know that once I start sanding, whatever is there will be gone, so I don't want to start sanding until I know what to replace it with. Does anyone have any experience with an old Chris?

    And by the way.... YES, I KNOW that decks should either be "real", that is, thick planking with real caulk, or canvas/dynel and painted. I know that veneer over ply will fail some day, so things should be done "right". But please keep in mind, this boat has been this way since JFK was a Senator, so what I'm looking to do is refinish the deck "as built". Sure, I know they shouldn't have put veneer over ply back when cars had fins, but they DID, and I'm trying to do the same. So I guess I'm really wondering how they did it!

  2. #2
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    I have a 1959 Chris Craft Conqueror. The finish (looks like a varnish, but I think it may be Cetol) on the deck is beginning to peel, so it's time to strip and refinish.

    Yes, if I can get my hands on some Colean I'll try that... but I'm not heading to England soon, and I left my Toplicht catalog in Annapolis.

    That said, in looking at the deck, I've noticed that every third seam is a polysulfide of some sort, but the other seams look to be painted on. In other words, what it looks like is that the planks are actually close to four inches wide, but paint has been used to give the appearance of inch and a quarter planks.

    So my question for the experts is, what sort of paint (if it is in fact paint) should I use? I know that once I start sanding, whatever is there will be gone, so I don't want to start sanding until I know what to replace it with. Does anyone have any experience with an old Chris?

    And by the way.... YES, I KNOW that decks should either be "real", that is, thick planking with real caulk, or canvas/dynel and painted. I know that veneer over ply will fail some day, so things should be done "right". But please keep in mind, this boat has been this way since JFK was a Senator, so what I'm looking to do is refinish the deck "as built". Sure, I know they shouldn't have put veneer over ply back when cars had fins, but they DID, and I'm trying to do the same. So I guess I'm really wondering how they did it!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 1999
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    I have a 1959 Chris Craft Conqueror. The finish (looks like a varnish, but I think it may be Cetol) on the deck is beginning to peel, so it's time to strip and refinish.

    Yes, if I can get my hands on some Colean I'll try that... but I'm not heading to England soon, and I left my Toplicht catalog in Annapolis.

    That said, in looking at the deck, I've noticed that every third seam is a polysulfide of some sort, but the other seams look to be painted on. In other words, what it looks like is that the planks are actually close to four inches wide, but paint has been used to give the appearance of inch and a quarter planks.

    So my question for the experts is, what sort of paint (if it is in fact paint) should I use? I know that once I start sanding, whatever is there will be gone, so I don't want to start sanding until I know what to replace it with. Does anyone have any experience with an old Chris?

    And by the way.... YES, I KNOW that decks should either be "real", that is, thick planking with real caulk, or canvas/dynel and painted. I know that veneer over ply will fail some day, so things should be done "right". But please keep in mind, this boat has been this way since JFK was a Senator, so what I'm looking to do is refinish the deck "as built". Sure, I know they shouldn't have put veneer over ply back when cars had fins, but they DID, and I'm trying to do the same. So I guess I'm really wondering how they did it!

  4. #4
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    Don, Jerry Conrad (curator of the Chris-Craft Collection) at the Mariner's Museum in Newport News may not know off the top of his head, but he will know who DOES know.

    He'll also sell you the original working plans for your boat, and a copy of the original hull card--- at very reasonable prices. These are all worth having.

    He's at www.mariner.org or you can call (800) 565-6846. If he's out, his assistant (last I knew) was Katie.

    Alan

  5. #5
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    Don, Jerry Conrad (curator of the Chris-Craft Collection) at the Mariner's Museum in Newport News may not know off the top of his head, but he will know who DOES know.

    He'll also sell you the original working plans for your boat, and a copy of the original hull card--- at very reasonable prices. These are all worth having.

    He's at www.mariner.org or you can call (800) 565-6846. If he's out, his assistant (last I knew) was Katie.

    Alan

  6. #6
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    Don, Jerry Conrad (curator of the Chris-Craft Collection) at the Mariner's Museum in Newport News may not know off the top of his head, but he will know who DOES know.

    He'll also sell you the original working plans for your boat, and a copy of the original hull card--- at very reasonable prices. These are all worth having.

    He's at www.mariner.org or you can call (800) 565-6846. If he's out, his assistant (last I knew) was Katie.

    Alan

  7. #7
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    Originally posted by Alan D. Hyde:
    Don, Jerry Conrad (curator of the Chris-Craft Collection) at the Mariner's Museum in Newport News may not know off the top of his head, but he will know who DOES know.

    He'll also sell you the original working plans for your boat, and a copy of the original hull card--- at very reasonable prices. These are all worth having.

    He's at www.mariner.org or you can call (800) 565-6846. If he's out, his assistant (last I knew) was Katie.

    Alan
    Thanks. I have the hull card already, and I'm waiting to buy the plans for when I'm no longer living aboard (I figure it would be best to keep them in a dry place).

  8. #8
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    Originally posted by Alan D. Hyde:
    Don, Jerry Conrad (curator of the Chris-Craft Collection) at the Mariner's Museum in Newport News may not know off the top of his head, but he will know who DOES know.

    He'll also sell you the original working plans for your boat, and a copy of the original hull card--- at very reasonable prices. These are all worth having.

    He's at www.mariner.org or you can call (800) 565-6846. If he's out, his assistant (last I knew) was Katie.

    Alan
    Thanks. I have the hull card already, and I'm waiting to buy the plans for when I'm no longer living aboard (I figure it would be best to keep them in a dry place).

  9. #9
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    Originally posted by Alan D. Hyde:
    Don, Jerry Conrad (curator of the Chris-Craft Collection) at the Mariner's Museum in Newport News may not know off the top of his head, but he will know who DOES know.

    He'll also sell you the original working plans for your boat, and a copy of the original hull card--- at very reasonable prices. These are all worth having.

    He's at www.mariner.org or you can call (800) 565-6846. If he's out, his assistant (last I knew) was Katie.

    Alan
    Thanks. I have the hull card already, and I'm waiting to buy the plans for when I'm no longer living aboard (I figure it would be best to keep them in a dry place).

  10. #10
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    The original Chris Craft construction was to use teak planks that were actually three times wider & put two artificial 'saw curf' seams in to give the appearance of three narrow planks (as you have observed). In the original construction, the saw curfs were deep enough to allow regular caulking (polysulfied) in the real and artificial seams. Typically, as the years pass, and the teak decks are repeatedly sanded (and getting thinner)the artificial 'saw curf' seams can be sanded down to non-existance. It sounds like you may be close to being there. In your case there is no 'original' replacement, so you may need to be creative. (At least this is what my knowledge, understanding & experience has lead me to believe.)

  11. #11
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    The original Chris Craft construction was to use teak planks that were actually three times wider & put two artificial 'saw curf' seams in to give the appearance of three narrow planks (as you have observed). In the original construction, the saw curfs were deep enough to allow regular caulking (polysulfied) in the real and artificial seams. Typically, as the years pass, and the teak decks are repeatedly sanded (and getting thinner)the artificial 'saw curf' seams can be sanded down to non-existance. It sounds like you may be close to being there. In your case there is no 'original' replacement, so you may need to be creative. (At least this is what my knowledge, understanding & experience has lead me to believe.)

  12. #12
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    The original Chris Craft construction was to use teak planks that were actually three times wider & put two artificial 'saw curf' seams in to give the appearance of three narrow planks (as you have observed). In the original construction, the saw curfs were deep enough to allow regular caulking (polysulfied) in the real and artificial seams. Typically, as the years pass, and the teak decks are repeatedly sanded (and getting thinner)the artificial 'saw curf' seams can be sanded down to non-existance. It sounds like you may be close to being there. In your case there is no 'original' replacement, so you may need to be creative. (At least this is what my knowledge, understanding & experience has lead me to believe.)

  13. #13
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    nedL is correct.

    Decks on Chris Crafts are usually mahogany but maybe this is different.

    Common problem. You can deepen the grooves in the seams with a router using a fence anchored with screws in the true seams.

    Lot of work. I have one of these jobs coming up.

  14. #14
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    nedL is correct.

    Decks on Chris Crafts are usually mahogany but maybe this is different.

    Common problem. You can deepen the grooves in the seams with a router using a fence anchored with screws in the true seams.

    Lot of work. I have one of these jobs coming up.

  15. #15
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    nedL is correct.

    Decks on Chris Crafts are usually mahogany but maybe this is different.

    Common problem. You can deepen the grooves in the seams with a router using a fence anchored with screws in the true seams.

    Lot of work. I have one of these jobs coming up.

  16. #16
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    Yes, the decks are mahogony. Cutting with a router may works, I'm thinking the new, smaller Bosch may be perfect.

    I'll sand first, and see how much is left and go from there.

    Thanks for all the help, this is exactly the info I needed.

    Now, if I can only find Coelan in the US. I knew I was looking for a reason to go to Europe!

  17. #17
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    Yes, the decks are mahogony. Cutting with a router may works, I'm thinking the new, smaller Bosch may be perfect.

    I'll sand first, and see how much is left and go from there.

    Thanks for all the help, this is exactly the info I needed.

    Now, if I can only find Coelan in the US. I knew I was looking for a reason to go to Europe!

  18. #18
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    Yes, the decks are mahogony. Cutting with a router may works, I'm thinking the new, smaller Bosch may be perfect.

    I'll sand first, and see how much is left and go from there.

    Thanks for all the help, this is exactly the info I needed.

    Now, if I can only find Coelan in the US. I knew I was looking for a reason to go to Europe!

  19. #19
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    Hmm, sorry about the teak vs mahogany mix up. Certainly mahogany on a smaller Chris, but I would have thought teak in this size range.

    Learn something new every day. [img]smile.gif[/img]

  20. #20
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    Hmm, sorry about the teak vs mahogany mix up. Certainly mahogany on a smaller Chris, but I would have thought teak in this size range.

    Learn something new every day. [img]smile.gif[/img]

  21. #21
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    Hmm, sorry about the teak vs mahogany mix up. Certainly mahogany on a smaller Chris, but I would have thought teak in this size range.

    Learn something new every day. [img]smile.gif[/img]

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