Art, dig around the library for some books on tuning the table saw. Crapsman tools are not known to be the most user friendly when it comes to 'tweaking'. I read somewhere that the weight of the motor on the plate hanging off the rear on those saws causes the plate to twist and distort the angle of the belt forward to the arbor pulley.
The easiest way to check the parallelism of the blade is to measure the same tooth of the blade at the front of the blade to the mitre slot to the left and rotate the blade so that that very same tooth is now just appearing at the rear of the saw slot. This will show what the deviation is. Now to get it right on, you have to loosen the fasteners that hold the table to the saw base and gently nudge the table till the measurement is the same at both front and rear of same tooth to left mitre slot. I would recommend removing the wings and just work with the main top. Usually in a bench type saw like that one or a Delta or General, the wings are grid type unless it was the top of the line model and then the top would be all solid cast iron or gag, sheet metal wings.
My second table saw was a Delta bench model but the top of the line (no not bragging!!)with solid CI top and wings but it still had that funky hanging motor deal.
I went to my friendly neighborhood machine shop and we designed a solid boiler plate base for the motor instead of the sheet metal one. I also had flat slightly crowned pulleys turned out of 7000 series Aluminum and ran a flat dacron neoprene belt which increased the power to the blade and also the height above table of the blade but, that is me. For you, just beefing up the saw motor mount, upgrading the pulleys and adding a link belt* plus stiffening the sheet metal base and legs should do quite a lot to make it a user instead of a boat anchor.
*check the tool catalogs of Woodcraft and others, IIRC, somebody makes a kit containing both pulleys and a link belt.
"Lord, grant that I may always desire more than I can accomplish"