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Thread: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

  1. #1
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    Default Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Hi boat builders,
    I got it in my head that I could do this so here goes! I spent weeks browsing the forums and inspecting canoe plans and builds. I've never attempted a boat build before but I feel I'm handy enough and can make a decent boat if I set my mind to it. After hours upon hours, I finally ordered an epoxy kit and bought my materials. I initially set out to build a modified Cheap Canoe but last minute, I stumbled upon Flo-Mo's Little Guide, the infamous one sheet canoe, seen here -- http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...ne-sheet-canoe

    The Little Guide appears to meet all my goals:
    1. Fairly easy design for the first time build - not a lot of chines
    2. Less than 13' solo canoe for river and intercoastal flats fishing - protected waters
    3. Ultralight weight for easy car topping by myself
    4. Nice lines
    5. Free plans if possible

    Rather than attempting Flo-Mo's one sheet, I adapted his plans to a 2 sheet design. I also added 2 inches of side board for more water clearance. I plan to keep the 12' length and 28" beam. I'm a pretty decent paddler and comfortable swimmer lol.

    Day 1:

    My humble model after printing out my 2 sheet mod of the One Sheet Little Guide. Again Flo-Mo, you rock!



    Lofting my first panel. Measured atleast 3 times -- the first line took atleast an hour lol



    Starting the gunwale bends early. Went with Poplar because it felt significanlty lighter weight than Oak.



    More lofting. So yes, I chose to go with Luan. I know... but believe it or not finding marine plywood in Orlando less than 1/4" proved to be nearly impossible. I would have had to ship it. Boat Builders Central is 2 hours away but my patience ran out.



    Creating a curve. As an engineer this was the most fun I had while lofting.



    Finally starting to cut. End of Day 1.
    Last edited by g8trtim; 09-09-2013 at 08:14 PM. Reason: Broke out images...

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Day 2 - More cutting and initial butt joints.


    Enough of this lofting. Tracing the next sheet from the cut panels was WAY faster. Don't make fun of my jigsaw cuts. I'll fix those with a sander.



    This is Bomber, my Vizsla. He's loving this project and doesn't mind being covered in saw dust apparently.



    Hey, hey. Hull planks cut!



    Starting the fiberglass butt joints. Note the paints cans diretly on the epoxy. Didn't even think about the rings this would leave. Won't make that mistake again.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Day 3 - Inspecting butt joints... ut oh...




    Okay, so this isn't as easy as some of you make it look. This was my first epoxy and fiberglass job ever. And it shows! Sanding here I come.



    Well I got better. This was one of the later butt joints. Note the fiberglass tape purchased from Boat Builders Supply. It's less dense weave than expected. Not sure why...



    Sanded all my butt joints for a second epoxy coat. Hopefully a smoother finish will result.



    Drying overnight. Next up is hull taping hopefully!

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Nice pics! Is there a frame where all those butt joints hit?
    "The enemies of reason have a certain blind look."
    Doctor Jacquin to Lieutenant D'Hubert, in Ridley Scott's first major film _The Duellists_.

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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    I'm going to try shaping the hull without a frame, rather a single batten near where I think the thwart/back rest will be placed. Educate me, why do you ask?

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    I had comparable challenges with the Payson or glass-reinforced butt joints. Please see pp 1-2 in my Argie 15 journal. Some of my entries might be useful to you. There's an easy way to remove those rough looking, potentially weak joints without a ton of sanding (heat gun and scraper), and a plain way to make them functional and extremely neat (mirror smooth and invisible under varnish without any sanding is what I got on mine). It looks like you had to sand into the fibers of your glass cloth and potentially weaken the joints. I would redo these joints if they will be subject to a lot of curvature or stress in the design. If not, you can just fair them later.
    Last edited by capefox; 09-10-2013 at 09:20 AM.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Next time go to Walmart and get some of their thickest Vinyl sheet and use that. It won't wrinkle like that and your epoxy will be as smooth as silk.
    Steve Lewis
    Formerly Lewisboats (don't try to change your email address!)

    http://angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    The modifications you made to the design are well worth doing. A 200 lb paddler drives the original design down to about 6" of freeboard which is considered the minimum. But you missed the boat by not making it longer. Longer waterlines make for more glide and easier paddling. Don't be surprised if some old geezer in a big heavy plastic canoe pulls away from you without even trying. I paddle a Cheap Canoe and have been in that situation several times.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Thanks for the comments and views thus far!

    So a few of my lessons learned as a beginner. First, follow Payson's butt joining method however, only do one side at a time. Second, get thicker plastic. I used painters drop cloth plastic, ~4mil IIRC. Try something closer to freezer bag gallon sized ziplocks to squeegee the epoxy thin. As thin as possible.

    Next time, I'll likely try fiberglass sheet rather than tape as I believe it will leave less texture.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Also

    You might consider just using regular fiberglass cloth for butts. The biax you used does offer engineering advantage with regard to strand orientation, but:

    1. Its harder to fill and fair in my opinion; the roving ( strands) that run through it tend to end up proud, instead of filled.

    2. You can cut regular cloth on a bias, achieve havin

    g fibers cross the joint at 45 instead of 90, just like biax, and its easier to fill and fair. IMHO

    There are places for biax-- a Payson joint isn't one of them.

    Kevin
    There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.

  11. #11
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    If only I had known when I bought my kit. I'm pretty disappointed with Boat Builder Central's kit http://boatbuildercentral.com/prodde...t#.Ui_YP8ZelrI. A few of my complaints...
    1. The pumps I bought via his site don't fit the threads of the bottles. I thought it was a bad threads on the hardener pump but upon screwing the resin pump, same issue. Pumps just pop lose like there are cross threaded. I sent them a note about the first pump and they quickly sent out another (next day shipping) but same issue.

    2. I guess I should have researched more explicitly because it's clearly biaxial tape. I didnt know what that meant and for beginner it seems like a major PITA.

    3. I had to send an email to get the plans included in the kit... ugh.

    But on the plus side, they shipped the kit next day USPS or atleast it arrived next day. They are only 2 hours away which may explain that. Then again shipping was like $28.

    Anyhow, lessons learned.

  12. #12
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Day 4
    Well my re-epoxied butt joints are slightly improved. However they had some major rippling. I've diagnosed my primary issue - applying too much epoxy at one time.

    Also, I purchased medium cure hardener. In Orlando right now, its a PITA to work with. I estimate the pumps I'm using result in 3 oz minimum mix. Because of the temperature, its setting up too quickly meaning 1) I rush to get it down and 2) I'm wasting ALOT. Almost half of each mix is going in the trash - this pains my frugal sensibilities.

    Anyhow, just one picture tonight. Based on the build logs of the Wacky Lassie and Wackless Lassie, I decided to try setting my outwales before stitching the hull.


    After sanding the butt joints again, I taped down some plastic and applied a very thin coat of epoxy to the side planks. As that got tacky I laid down a honey consistency epoxy mix with wood flour and then placed down my outwales. What really sucks is that Home Depot only had 12' long stock. So I'm a little short on the stern end of the hull. I didnt want to scarf after the ugly butt joints. I'll shave down the stern end to match the gunwale instead.

    Here's hoping the sides bend enough to form the hull without too much sweat, blood and tears. I'm having fun none the less.

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Quote Originally Posted by Cuyahoga Chuck View Post
    The modifications you made to the design are well worth doing. A 200 lb paddler drives the original design down to about 6" of freeboard which is considered the minimum. But you missed the boat by not making it longer. Longer waterlines make for more glide and easier paddling. Don't be surprised if some old geezer in a big heavy plastic canoe pulls away from you without even trying. I paddle a Cheap Canoe and have been in that situation several times.
    I really really thought about making it longer atleast one foot. However for whatever reason I was hell bent on 12'. One of my main issues is storage space - I just don't have the room for a long boat. I enjoy parking in the garage and my wife certainly won't park in the driveway to free up space either! I'm okay with the size tho - this is really a lazy paddle canoe for the Econ River and maybe some redfishing in Mosquito Lagoon - neither of which require "touring" speeds.

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Buy some cheap measuring spoons in plastic... Two different colors. Use one of the smaller ones to measure instead of the pumps. I use cheap plastic spoons myself. 8 spoons of resin and 4 of hardener make about 3 oz... or at least about the same as 2+1 pumps of my pumps.
    Steve Lewis
    Formerly Lewisboats (don't try to change your email address!)

    http://angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks

  15. #15
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Quote Originally Posted by Lewisboater View Post
    Buy some cheap measuring spoons in plastic... Two different colors. Use one of the smaller ones to measure instead of the pumps. I use cheap plastic spoons myself. 8 spoons of resin and 4 of hardener make about 3 oz... or at least about the same as 2+1 pumps of my pumps.
    I'll definitely try this. Thanks.

    I enjoyed your builds of ScoutCanu!

  16. #16
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Quote Originally Posted by g8trtim View Post
    Day 3 -

    Drying overnight. Next up is hull taping hopefully!
    Sounds like you're moving nicely along the learning curve.

    To ensure the cloth and tape is mirror smooth, follow Payson's advice with these improvements:
    (1) instead of the wax paper, lay those thick document laminating pouches (you can also get a photocopy shop to laminate big pieces of cardboard for you) over the joint.
    (2) use a grooved roller to remove any bubbles between the cloth and overlaid film.
    (3) place a sheet of 1/2 in. plywood over the entire joint and overlay.
    (4) weight the plywood over each joint with about 60 lbs of dense material like lead batteries or dumbbells.
    (5) remove the overlays and plywood after you are certain the epoxy is well cured.

    +1 on not using biax tape and just cutting 6 oz cloth diagonally to the edges of the fabric.

  17. #17
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    It's been a few days but finally found some time to make some meaningful progress. Task at hand was to get the hull stitched. Of course, this again proved more difficult than the videos and posts seem to make it. I enlisted my wife's help since the flimsy long planks are more manageable with two sets of hands.


    Sanding the temporary thwart.


    Panels ready. Okay so someone is going to ask about the gunnel being one inch too short... What happened is Home Depot sells maximum 12' stock. I didn't notice in the plans that the longest dimension in the lofting was just a tad longer than 12' (metric and all). SOOOO, long story short, I'll be figuring it out later. Ghetto?! yes.


    Have the temp thwart in. Tape alone wasnt strong enough given the gunwale springback.


    So I stole another good idea. Screwed a 1.25" inch wood screw into the end of gunwale then "tied" with wire. This locked the ends together perfectly.


    Tons of tape but the first set of panels are holding. And she said it would never work. Note the clamp with wedged failed - this photo is pre screw+wire fix mentioned above.


    Ummm... Ya. This should be fun to close up. I have a feeling I'll be tracing a new bottom... Any ideas? My plan today is to try squeezing the hull with straps.

  18. #18
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    I decided to glue the first set of planks together before trying to get the bottom to fit. The tape wasn't quite holding the hull together and I really REALLY didnt want to repeat that process again. Neither did wifey. After a very late night and inspection this morning, I must say that the fillets are the least ghetto thing thus far. The extensive videos from Old Red Barn on Youtube were extremely helpful.




    Oh and I forgot to mention. That temporary thwart we initially cut was two inches too long. I cut it to 28" beam length neglecting the gunwale width. So I cut another thwart at 26" and then held it in place with a screw in each end. The gaps between the sides and bottom are still quite wide but the shorter thwart saves a few inches.
    Last edited by g8trtim; 09-14-2013 at 09:49 AM. Reason: forgot about my eff up.

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Now you know why they call it STITCH & Glue. On most S&G hulls there are places where the planks have to be forced into a bend or twist.
    Wiring gives you the potential to back up and re-adjust the fit of each plank and to make certain it stays where you put it until the glue goes on.
    Also it wouln't hurt to flip your bottom plank so all the butt joints don't line up.

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    @Cuyahoga Chuck - the boat is symmetric across two axis so the butt joints all fall in the middle. Next boat is definitely stitched not taped.

    Spent several hours this weekend working on the boat. Task number 1 was fitting the bottom. Here's my overall plan of attack and of course, lessons learned.


    I tested several approaches using straps to cinch the sides to the shape of the pre-cut bottom. I had to close nearly 6 inches per side. My initial test was with the 3 blue straps and I got pretty close. However the was some crazy deformation of the planks. I then added a short piece of 1x2 and that reduced the deformation. Excellent! So I decided to buy some more straps (black) and longer 1x2s. With quite a bit of effort I nearly closed the gap, when...


    S$&#! Using the 26" thwart required crazy amount of flex in the side panels. I noticed the screws holding the thwart were bending. In my infinite wisdom I removed one screw to hopefully allow the gunwale to pivot more. Well Lesson Learned! Starting counting my pennies invested and nearly called it a day.


    Took the dog on a quick walk for a break and came up with a good idea. I added a 22" thwart which would mean less gap to close up. This worked great! The plan for later once the fillets dry is to force the 26" thwart back into place. I dont think it will be too difficult. May think about fiberglassing the chines first tho.


    My parents stopped by to check out the progress and Mom took some photos. Its hot in Orlando today which means very small mixes of epoxy for filleting. Took the advice from above to measure out much smaller quantities in tiny mixing cups from drink mix that I had saved for some random use in the future. Here I'm sweating profusely, trying my best to push peanut butter into the stern.


    Progress! Can't wait to remove the straps. Hopefully the epoxy holds...


    My mom took more photos of Bomber than of the boat!

  21. #21
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Very cool. Are you going to build a paddle too? Will you use a standard canoe type paddle or a double end?
    editor sought , untill found i apologize for the grammer and spelling

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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Quote Originally Posted by Zymguy View Post
    Very cool. Are you going to build a paddle too? Will you use a standard canoe type paddle or a double end?
    Going to use a fiberglass kayak paddle I already own. Should help with tracking and solo paddling speed.

  23. #23
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Hull speed = the square root of waterline length x 1.34. That is not chisled in stone but it's close to the mark.

  24. #24
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    After a weekend camping trip, I finally found some time to work on the boat. Today I removed the tape and sanded my fillets in prep for adding a longer thwart and fiberglassing the inside seams.


    Removed the tape and inspected my bleed out. Better in some areas but will be filling some outside seams shortly. The clear packing tape along the seam really reduced the amount of sand I'm going to have to do on the outside thankfully.


    Need to clean up my garage... Anyhow, after removing the straps and tape I was pleased to have a hull. Honestly I fully expected it to spring open and for me to have some new firewood lol


    Presanding of the fillets to smooth them out in prep for glassing. No idea how I'm going to glass the bow and stern. I can't get my hands in there very far. Also need my wife's help to replace the thwart after the previous mishap.

    More to come soon. Thanks for watching.

  25. #25
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Icing bag for the ends to get it in there, rod with saran wrap to smooth, cove
    Steve Lewis
    Formerly Lewisboats (don't try to change your email address!)

    http://angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    The fillets don't have to be very substancial because the angles between planks are not very tight. All you are trying to do is present a modestly curved surface so the tape won't lift. You should be able to strike off the filleting material with a home-made curved end paddle or even a plastic squeegie and do it in one swipe. If there is any squeeze-out on the sides lift it off with a putty knife.
    If you have your glass tape cut you can start apply it even as the fillet is setting up. Brush some straight epoxy on so the tape will stick and then complete the wet-out with a second coating. The method is called "wet on wet" and is done all the time.

  27. #27
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Thanks for the recommendations guys.

    @Cuyahoga Chuck - I followed similar process of filleting with a curved corner of a squeegee. It worked well for sure. Didn't have to do much sanding, just to remove the ruffness. The stern and bow are quite tight and getting any tools in there to smooth the fillet will be almost impossible. Same goes with wetting the tape. I'll likely just leave the inside of the ends untaped and double layer the outside of the hull in these areas for bump and abrasion resistance. My problem with wet-on-wet application is that its 90 degrees in Orlando right now and the epoxy sets too quickly. I have to keep small amounts of epoxy in a cooler with ice and mix only 3 oz at a time. Its tedious for sure.

  28. #28
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Started fiberglassing the inside seams today. Thankfully it didn't take nearly as long as I originally had expected. I followed the process as shown on Red Barn Boats YouTube videos, that is mixing small amounts of epoxy, applied with a tooth brush. First wet out the seam, then place and tack down the glass, then wet out the glass. Again I chilled my epoxy to increase the set time and made batches of about 2 oz. I found a pack of 6 cheapo toothbrushes at Walmart for $0.99. Used two for the inside of the hull.

    Again, biax tape was disappointing to work with. 6" tape was ripped down to 3" for each seam. The strands just pull apart so easily and its nearly impossible to fill the glass without leaving a rough texture. Moving right along...


    Didn't get many pictures but if you've seen one seam, you've seen them all Here I've just pre-epoxied the seam and am placing glass on my 3rd or 4th seam on the inside of the hull.



    Gently tacking down the glass to ensure it sits evenly across the seam. Did I mention biax... ugh.



    About to wet out the glass and be done with the inside of the hull until sand, prime and sand. I included this shot as you can see I've replaced the short 22" thwart with a 24" thwart. Wifey and I couldn't spread the boat enough by hand to get a 26" thwart in place so I opted to stretch the boat a bit and try again in a few days. I hope I can get the 26" thwart in place to give an overall 28" beam. Otherwise its going to slim at 26" beam... hopefully not too tipsy. May just take some getting used to and since its hot in FL, a swim or two definitely won't be the worst thing to happen.

    Filleting the outside seams next!

  29. #29

    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Hi, if you have the patience and/or scheduling ability, a trick you can use to get the glass tape edges straight is this:

    Run some masking tape on both sides of the seam, equally spaced from the seam.

    cut your glass or pick a glass tape width that is wider than the distance between the two pieces of tape.

    wet out the glass and then wait for the "B stage" of the resin cure: this is the point where the resin is no longer a tacky liquid but still a very soft solid. With most epoxies, it's a pretty big window, actually. If you miss this stage, all is not lost but your work will be more difficult.

    take fresh single-edge razor blade and cut the glass right along the masking tape edge, then pull off the tape.

    It's a common trick used by surfboard builders. If you do it well you can pretty much get away with doing no sanding at all on the glass edges and very little sanding at most.

    Trent

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Here is a possible way to get your 26 in there. Tie a loop in each end of a rope and loop the loops around the ends of the boat. Take a stick and put it in the middle and twist the rope (Spanish Windlass). This will pull the ends up and splay the sides out. GO EASY!!! as you don't want to bust anything and you can generate a lot of leverage with this. Work your 26" stick in there then. Listen carefully to the wood... an creaking or other stress noise probably means slow down or back off. If you put the boat in the sun first to warm up it might spread easier too.
    Steve Lewis
    Formerly Lewisboats (don't try to change your email address!)

    http://angelfire.com/ego/lewisboatworks

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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    I have an idea on how you could spread the sides apart but shouldn't mention it because it would be real easy to go too far. You COULD use a small bottle jack and some scraps of wood (2x4's) with the boat on its side BUT you wouldn't have much of a feel of how much pressure you are putting on the new fiberglass joints.

    Here's another idea.



    Wrap the boat in plastic and try it out in the water. That will let you know how stable the boat is and if you should continue trying to force the sides wider or if it is good enough as is.

    Sea Dreams A.K.A. Brian

  32. #32
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dreams View Post
    I have an idea on how you could spread the sides apart but shouldn't mention it because it would be real easy to go too far. You COULD use a small bottle jack and some scraps of wood (2x4's) with the boat on its side BUT you wouldn't have much of a feel of how much pressure you are putting on the new fiberglass joints.

    Here's another idea.



    Wrap the boat in plastic and try it out in the water. That will let you know how stable the boat is and if you should continue trying to force the sides wider or if it is good enough as is.

    Sea Dreams A.K.A. Brian
    A bottle jack? How many small boat builders have one of those in their tool kits?
    A boat being a three dimensional object will undergo certain changes from jacking across the gunnals. Some of it will be desireable some not. When you, spread the gunnals apart the bottom will take on additional rocker. In a canoe too much rocker could be ruinous. And it could make the hull less stabile rather than more.
    Last edited by Cuyahoga Chuck; 09-28-2013 at 06:15 PM.

  33. #33
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Quote Originally Posted by Cuyahoga Chuck View Post
    A bottle jack? How many small boat builders have one of those in their tool kits?
    A boat being a three dimensional object will undergo certain changes from jacking across the gunnals. Some of it will be desireable some not. When you, spread the gunnals apart the bottom will take on additional rocker. In a canoe too much rocker could be ruinous. And it could make the hull less stabile rather than more.
    No bottle jack? Then use the scissor jack from your car. O.K. good point about spreading the gunwales causing the bottom to take on additional rocker. The same thing would likely happen no matter how it is spread be it a car jack, a rope and windlass or wifey and husband pulling and prying.

    I still stick with my suggestion to test the boat with a wrapping of plastic though. I used that method on a couple test one-sheet boat designs and it worked for a quick test without getting the unfinished shell all wet.

    Sea Dreams A.K.A. Brian

  34. #34
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Quote Originally Posted by Sea Dreams View Post
    No bottle jack? Then use the scissor jack from your car. O.K. good point about spreading the gunwales causing the bottom to take on additional rocker. The same thing would likely happen no matter how it is spread be it a car jack, a rope and windlass or wifey and husband pulling and prying.

    I still stick with my suggestion to test the boat with a wrapping of plastic though. I used that method on a couple test one-sheet boat designs and it worked for a quick test without getting the unfinished shell all wet.

    Sea Dreams A.K.A. Brian
    I have a set of hydraulic Porto-Power jacks from my years of repairing machinery.
    But I would never need them because my S&G hulls are wired up and then adjusted, as many times as necessary, to conform to the plans BEFORE the first dab of epoxy goes on.
    I had to slit and reglass the keel of a kayak I built because I drew the planks wrong. I don't want to got thru that again.

  35. #35
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    Default Re: Little Guide Build Log - my first boat attempt!

    Well it's been awhile, but I'm back working on the boat. Trying to finish it asap now that the FL weather is getting really nice. I've put in a few hours here and there since my last post, mainly sanding and cleaning up the fiber glass inside the boat. The texture of the biax was really rough but a few passes with the orbital and 100 grit paper smoothed them out quite well without removing too much epoxy.

    It was beautiful today so I spent some time working on the rear gunwales - extending the outwales on both sides.

    Here you can see I cut the original outwale with a hand saw and them fit in a new piece. The recessed corner will be filled with thickened epoxy as there was some existing epoxy that I could smooth out very well.


    After an initial coat of straight epoxy along the bottom of the entire outwale to fill any gaps, I thickened a batch and clamped the suckers on. I made sure to get a really good bleed out this time.


    Here you can see both extensions. I'll smooth out the transition with the sander. Unsure of whether I'll varnish or just paint the gunwales.

    Lastly, I decided against fiberglassing the exterior seams. The biax is so difficult to smooth out and I really don't think I need the abrasion resistance or the extra weight. The boat is already around 35 lbs and my ultimate goal is <40. The entire hull will be painted so that's going to add a few pounds.

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