Reuel Parker's Sea Bright 33

[nedL]

When you think about how the construction transitions up forward (amidships) these are the logical conclusions.

In rolled garboard construction the first two planks back aft that form the sides of the box and the next plank (tuck) are the regular garboard and broad up forward. So trying to get the tuck to sit on top of the garboard (side of the box) would be a messy transition.

Likewise in boxed garboard construction, the garboard up foreard is also the tuck plank aft. So going from the garboard more or less on top of the bottom boards up forward, to next to the sides of the box aft would also be a messy transition.

[gilberj]

This is essentially stitch and goo construction. The ply and the glass making a composite structure. I am not sure what all the discussion is about, should be straight forward, or am I missing something.
Certainly the whole thing will have to be strong, to stand up to grounding, which is one of the features of this boat.

[nedL]

This is essentially stitch and goo construction. The ply and the glass making a composite structure. I am not sure what all the discussion is about, should be straight forward, or am I missing something.
Certainly the whole thing will have to be strong, to stand up to grounding, which is one of the features of this boat.

I was looking at the plan cross section and seeing the way the box side and the garboard plank meet with a mitered joint, that just seems excessively difficult. That doesn’t matter if it is stitch & glue or plank construction.

[skaraborgcraft]

I believe there is a lapped on batten option too, but perhaps that is just for the above waterline planking? How is it shown on the plans, just one option?

[Rigadog]

I am doing the boat batten seam, but there is no batten where the box keel meets the garboard.

I cut two garboard planks yesterday, not too bad but I haven't tried to fit the box keel sides yet so.... It was tricky to mark the contour of the box keel sides; running a pencil and gauge along the garboard. But yes, that beveled joint gets layered with biaxial tape and epoxy before the whole boat gets covered in xynole and epoxy so perfection is not called for. Tis boat is right at the limits of my skills and because the directions are not always detailed, I have to come up with my own methods, many which are work-arounds. That part is sort of fun. For instance, the plans call for a single layer of 1 inch ply for the bottom, but I am doing 2 layers of 5/8 (staggered joints, no scarfing) which makes a slightly beefier bottom and a better corner where it meets the sides of the box keel. The second layer will cover the edge of box keel sides.

[skaraborgcraft]

Im surprised the bottom is only an inch. I confess i use mostly Atkin based scantlings because i have those at hand, but i was looking at 3 layers of 1in. What was the ballast arrangement, all internal?

[Rigadog]

Yes the ballast is internal, 2000 lbs. Maybe I'll triple it!

[skaraborgcraft]

Many of the Atkin boats have bottoms up to around 3in up to 28ft, some with laminated layers, others from a single bit of 3in Greenheart!. Those with suggested inside ballast, in some cases, the plans were later ammended to suggest fitting outside ballast. I will have a 2in casting placed inside a 2 layer keel shoe, that might get fitted after the rest of the boat is built on a 1 in bottom, to ease turning, maybe....still pondering. Im sure the 1in is thick enough and expect Parker suggests a fair amount of glass armour on the base?

[Rigadog]

IMG_1013.jpg Just testing to see if I am capable of posting pictures. This is Hurricane damage on Crooked Island Bahamas two years ago. Lets see if it works.

[Rigadog]

Okay now I can take some pics of the boat building process. Watch this space...

[skaraborgcraft]

Excellent! There was i thinking you might need to shovel out some sand before you get started....

[Rigadog]

Well, a progress report. I have managed to get the hull planked up. Next is installing butt blocks on planking inside, gluing a second layer of ply to the bottom, filling chine gaps with thickened epoxy, laminating the outer stem, covering the whole mess with Xynole and epoxy. Then... turn it over. I try not to look to far ahead. It is overwhelming at times.

[skaraborgcraft]

Some one once said, "pictures or it didnt happen"....... glad to hear you still at it.

[Sailor Alan]

Very glad to hear of progress, and to find out that picture was NOT your workshop.

[gilberj]

Hoping for some photo's.....

[Rigadog]

my grandson looked at it and told me it was upside down. I'll have to do something about that.

[Rigadog]

Very glad to hear of progress, and to find out that picture was NOT your workshop.

My workshop actually looks worse!

[Rigadog]

I was thinking about alternative rig options that would work on unstayed masts. Anyone have a notion?

Ohio pound net boat with the integral gaff?

[Sailor Alan]

I was thinking about alternative rig options that would work on unstayed masts. Anyone have a notion?

I strongly favor twin masts to balance the boat, and it allows basic self steering, a real plus. At 33’ and heavy, I think your pound boat rig might be be too tall and heavy for easy rigging.

I would favor this Lug Rig, partially because it compliments your hull shape and lines, partially because it has relatively short spars, and mostly because it has a nice low center of effort. If you are enthusiastic you have lots of strings to pull, but conversely does not need these strings to be pulled. It is surprisingly good to windward, and extremely weatherly.
Finally, in an extreme storm, you throw the mainsail over the bow, attached such that the boom lays transversely across the bow, at least one wave length away, with the sail floating flat, and the yard still further away. An old Cornish fisherman’s trick. I’m not sure if the mizen remained set or not, but the waves broke across the floating sail, only froth remaining at the bow, and the boat lay naturally to leeward of it.

[Sailor Alan]

I was thinking about alternative rig options that would work on unstayed masts. Anyone have a notion?

I strongly favor twin masts to balance the boat, and it allows basic self steering, a real plus. At 33’ and heavy, I think your pound boat rig might be be too tall and heavy for easy rigging.

I would favor this Lug Rig, partially because it compliments your hull shape and lines, partially because it has relatively short spars, and mostly because it has a nice low center of effort. If you are enthusiastic you have lots of strings to pull, but conversely does not need these strings to be pulled. It is surprisingly good to windward, and extremely weatherly.
Finally, in an extreme storm, you throw the mainsail over the bow, attached such that the boom lays transversely across the bow, at least one wave length away, with the sail floating flat, and the yard still further away. An old Cornish fisherman’s trick. I’m not sure if the mizen remained set or not, but the waves broke across the floating sail, only froth remaining at the bow, and the boat lay naturally to leeward of it.

[gilberj]

What are your reasons for doing something different from the design rig......my own choice would be the ketch rig with the main and mizzen of similar size, with short gaffs and full battens, and a jib/staysail....as designed. I know this rig.......................it is essentially the same as the rig on the LFH Meadowlark. It works- really well as a cruising rig. It is unusually well balanced and easy to handle, it has very reasonably good windward ability ....this is the rig i'd choose because I have s lot of experience with the pretty similar geometry ....
Why do you want to change it to something else?
Of course rigadog may chose the other rig...or an altogether different rig....its his choice............................What rig do you want other than one of the design rig plans?
John

[Rigadog]

What are your reasons for doing something different from the design rig......my own choice would be the ketch rig with the main and mizzen of similar size, with short gaffs and full battens, and a jib/staysail....as designed. I know this rig.......................it is essentially the same as the rig on the LFH Meadowlark. It works- really well as a cruising rig. It is unusually well balanced and easy to handle, it has very reasonably good windward ability ....this is the rig i'd choose because I have s lot of experience with the pretty similar geometry ....
Why do you want to change it to something else?
Of course rigadog may chose the other rig...or an altogether different rig....its his choice............................What rig do you want other than one of the design rig plans?
John

Thanks for you input, both of you. I asked about the lug rig and Reuel said although he loved it, he preferred the spritsail used on the Jersy beach skiffs. Me I am leaning towards the two masted rig as drawn and Gilberj testifying as to it's manners helps. It's also nice looking. I'm just keeping my mind open since the choice is still a ways off. I have a lot of work ahead of me before spars and masts.

[Sailor Alan]

Rigadog, and GilbertJ,


I must admit to some confusion, my background is english rigs, and less so east coats rigs.


To me the ‘sprit’ rig is the rig shown on the Seabright 33 in my brochure, and a horrible rig, especially to reef. It was developed as a sail on the cargo derrick, hence the sprit socketed against the mast heel.


The pound boat ‘sprit’ rig, as in the illustration, seemed to be developed specifically (see Chappell) for gliding across flat seas with the sail/boom free to rotate for near zero thrust, but still under the single operators control. The masts must be vertical for this to work, the boom was set high for crew clearance, and the simple sail was basically flat cut by the operator. In my opinion, this rig would need to be inordinately high and unwieldily to give enough drive for your boat.


The twin mast, short gaff rig shown on the Seabright 36 in my brochure is an exceptionally good rig, and very hansom on the boat as well. Being all inboard, it will be very easy to handle, rig, and reef too. I disagree vehemently with adding full length battens to this rig, with no roach there should be no need for any battens, though a poorly cut sail might benefit. This is the designed rig, and as GilbertJ says, why change it.


My only objection, and it is a mild one, is the aftermost mast (is it the mizen, or the main) passing right through the accommodation. I would seriously consider a steel pole here with a steel tabernacle above so the mast can be hinged, or rigged, as needed. A roughly 24” tabernacle or socket should suffice, and the base of this tabernacle would include straps across the cabin roof/ceiling for lateral stability. This pipe would be a wonderful handhold in a seaway, whilst the mast base will be too large and an obstruction to boot.


My suggestion of that particular Lug rig was it removing the mast forward to a lower impact position. Most other Lug rigs are more difficult to tack, and so are less attractive.

[nemier]

Rigadog,
Any updates? Photos of progress?

[Rigadog]

IMG_2810.jpg

Finally getting around to uploading some pics. This is fairly early on.

[Rigadog]

IMG_3263.jpgIMG_3262.jpgIMG_3261.jpgIMG_3259.jpg

[Rigadog]

I painted the hull roll n' tip and was not at all happy with the results using System 3 WR-LPU. So I ordered a pressure pot sprayer and was going to sand this weekend to prep for spraying but friday a few hours after my routine 20 minute bike ride my knee swelled up badly. I had a tick bite about 8 inches above the knee in question a month ago and now I'm thinking it could be Lymes because otherwise I am baffled, my knee felt fine, not a twinge or any discomfort, certainly no trauma. I also had a killer headache for 2 days a couple of weeks ago, and I feel I'm not thinking as well as usual. Had same thing happen 20 years ago, tested negative but was given Doxcycline and the knee quickly resolved...

Anyway progress is on hold. This fall hasn't been great for boat work (or much of anything) between a heart attack and now this. My goal is to get the thing turned over by Xmas. I could get to that and spray when it's upright I suppose. Any reason to spray before turning it?

[gilberj]

I am so very glad to see your progress, and deeply dismayed at your health problems. I could be wrong but I doubt you would see any effect of Lyme disease a few weeks or even months after a bite. still if you are feeling rough, you are not feeling like working on the boat. Take care.....
John

[Rigadog]

I am so very glad to see your progress, and deeply dismayed at your health problems. I could be wrong but I doubt you would see any effect of Lyme disease a few weeks or even months after a bite. still if you are feeling rough, you are not feeling like working on the boat. Take care.....
John

Thanks so much, trying to get in to see a knee doctor today. frustrating!