What wood would make durable spray rails?
Thanks,
Gary
What wood would make durable spray rails?
Thanks,
Gary
If you want them to last forever you could use Azek.
I prefer Clear Doug Fir. Knowing that it is sacrificial.
Jim
Azek is not a bad idea. It is floppy, that could be good if there is any edge set to it and bad if you need it to have any strength. Mahog. is what they used to be made of on many boats.
Barbour Plastics makes extruded PVC spray rails.
I think that Hamilton Marine stocked it.
Terminology is sometimes confusing. By spray rail... do you mean what I call a rubrail (at the sheerline), or do you mean a proud piece of trim - what I call a spray rail - further down toward the waterline? If it's a rubrail... some do regard them as sacrificial. Depends upon the boat, the typical docking and rafting arrangements, etc. Spray rails, I do not usually regard as sacrificial. For a spray I've seen or used: white oak; mahogany; ipe; douglas fir; black locust; alaskan yellow cedar; sapele; and more. The two I prefer are white oak and black locust, but any of those others (and several more) will work.
David G
Harbor Woodworks
https://www.facebook.com/HarborWoodworks/
"It was a Sunday morning and Goddard gave thanks that there were still places where one could worship in temples not made by human hands." -- L. F. Herreshoff (The Compleat Cruiser)
I think David and I have the same definition in mind.
Non sacrificial, durable. Actually at the Chine.
The profile will be approx. 1.5" wide X 2" tall X 26'
Must be edge set and bent. A very large radius, but bent.
I would guess I'll need to glue for length. Maybe laminate.
I think White Oak, but read it doesn't glue well with epoxy.
Mahogany glues better , I've read.
Never even seen "Black Locust"
Thanks for the input
Second the mahogany....
Last edited by Big Fish Billy; 01-02-2013 at 03:24 PM.
"If you can't find the time to do it right, where will you find the time to do it over?"
Plastic wood is not great.
See: http://www.seegerweiss.com/azek-problems/
White oak, just in case you do bump into the occasional dock, etc... might have to kerf it depending on the depth of the rails and the curve of the hull:
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Stunning boat Stinkpotter!
Please let us see it when you are done...
What is it?
I used solid Mahogany on a restoration once but found out later that a solid strip wasn't the best way to go. About a week after applying them some areas popped off due to the rather sharp curves I needed (they were steam-bent and then secured onto the hull). I ended up making some relief cuts on the back side of these pieces that popped and was able to salvage them. I now use laminated strips. They are easier and much stronger. If use a laminate, you can use whatever wood looks aesthetically correct because the glue holding the laminated strips is really the strength of the whole strip.