Crayboat opening up

[Crayboatman]

We have just aquired a 16m Bass strait crayboat built by Ted Bull at Metung around 1960.
Due to past neglect and lack of use her bows are beginning to open up and every dockside expert I speak to offers a different solution. I am not a huge fan of Sika and at the moment favour the idea of putting a garden sprinkler onto the deck hose and spraying daily. Then making up some red lead primer followed by red lead putty. which would be faired off once the wood has finished swelling.
Does anyone have a better idea ?
Also I plan to remove the brine tanks and create a saloon leaving the engine room bulkhead and the for'ard hydraulic and machinery room bulkhead intact. There is one central bulkhead which would have to be modified- how safe is this....?
Finally, once I have removed the niggerhead she will need rebalasting- with a 7 foot draft and 29 tons- She should carry a fair head of sail. I would love to gaff rig her - has anyone any experience with these magnificent vessels.
Many thanks guys

[Phil Young]

Something I've often dreamed about. Great project, wonderful solid sea boats. What are her topside planks? Huon, Celery Top, or oregon? Either way, the ideal answer is to sail her frequently so the planks stay at a reasonably constant moisture level. Short of that, a sprinkler is a reasonably common solution while work is undertaken. Those green soaker hoses draped around the bulwark are not uncommon. Some people also drape some hesssian or shadecloth to keep the summer sun off. Hessian rots off neatly at the waterline which is handy. Don't know about the bulhead, probably worth getting a proffessional opinion. I suspect if you strengthen her with some heavy internal stringers, and maybe a big rubrail on the outside you'll have no problems. I've seen that done. Gotta be gaff rigged, lots of power, low c of e, and looks right. Good luck and keep us posted.

[Wild Dingo]

Well said Phil... what Phil neglected to say in his quiet way which I have no hessitation saying is... post pics please!

Congrats on the buy! sounds like youve got some work in front of you though

If you need help with posting the pics either ask away and we will tell you how or email me and I will post them for you... its easy enough to learn... and we would enjoy seeing her! mind here many probably have no idea what the boat looks like being from all over the place so it would help them understand the design and needs... lot of helpful people here mate... welcome!

[PeterSibley]

I'll second Shane, some photos would be great! You have taken on a big job and I wish you well and good sailing !Very sweet shapes those crayboats.

[Wild Dingo]

Well our new mate Crayboatman must be a busy buggar!

I sent him an email to his "heatmail" account hopefully it wont get lost amid the enlargements debt collectors and those porn emails that that mob lets through ...anyway will see what happens from there but heck Im curious now!! love projects!

[Wild Dingo]

I recieved an email from Crayboatman this morning and seems hes been having trouble logging on hes also on borrowed computers when ashore but heres what he says...

Direct quote from email by Crayboatman:

--------------------------------------------------
Hi Shane
Thanks for the note, I have no pix at the moment but hope to have that fixed
pretty soon... currently live aboard her in Brooklyn NSW. She is for sale
to me at a good price because of my involvement with her and I am currently
negotiating with the bean counters just how I might be able to achieve that
end.
She was in Queenslend survery until two years ago as a trawler-she hauled
three 21 fathom nets which is just awesome. She runs a 275hp cummins and a
tthree cylinder Perkins genset so while I would rather have a Gardener
aboard she is quite a boat.
While the hull is very sound, the opening planks up in the bows are a
concern and until I recieve good advice I am just sluicing seawater over
them- inside and out on a daily basis.
The bulwarks have recieved damage from houseboats colliding with her at her
mooring and I will most likely have to replace the lot- do you know if
tallowwood would work?
You are welcome to re-post this letter on the site to inform other members-
I am not so computer literate I am afraid, I will keep you posted about how
it all develops- thanks for your interest.
Mike Chandler

Im the messanger anyone want ot offer advice here?

[Aramas]

If the planks are opening up, then it won't be huon or celery - or any softwood for that matter (barring serious frame problems). Being built in gippsland it would seem that bluegum is the most likely material. Mainland workboats were mostly hardwood, so that they could take a beating.
I'd be inclined to get a good wood boat surveyer to check her out. He'll know more than any of us, and has the advantage of actually being there.

[Gary E]

Without knowing exactly what this looks like it hard to determine even a temporary fix.

Let me explain how we installed depth sounder transducers while the boat is in the water, you may be able to install a bolt this way and then fasten that bolt to something that will pull the sprung plank back to where it came from.

...gather up, all required materials.. brace and bit sized for the depth sounder transducer, calking sealant, string, lead weight that will fit thru the hole made by the bit, tapered wood plug that will fit the hole you will drill (a file handle may work), backing block if required with the same size hole to fit the transducer, a boat hook.

1...Since transducers should be oriented radialy front to back, file a small V in the top of it so you will know where the other end is pointing.

2...Tie fishin weight to string,

3...Drill hole in bottom, drop the wgt thru, stuff the tapered plug in to stop the water.

4...Use boat hook to find the string and bring up, remove the wgt, tie the transducer's cable connector to the string, tape it up so it's a nice tapered connection and will enter the hole you drilled as you pull the string.

5...Apply sealant to the transducer, toss it over the side.

6...Go back to the hole you drilled have the sealant and backing block and all the washers and nuts at your side. Remove the plug, pull the string and guide the cable thru the hole, keep pulling till the transducer comes thru, set the V notch where you want it, apply sealant to the block if you use one and set it in place, run the nuts on and squeeze till the sealant sez stop.

Now this may sound far fetched, but we installed a lot of transducers this way and saved the cost of a haulout, you may be able to install a bolt and a big washer and backing block the same way, then you find something like a turnbuckle to pull on that bolt which will pull the plank back to where it should be.

Best of luck

G