Is there a good way to "break" a bronze nut. Maybe heat? PB Blaster? Some of my floor bolt nuts are tenaciously hanging onto the bolts. The last one even started turning the bolt instead of breaking free.
Is there a good way to "break" a bronze nut. Maybe heat? PB Blaster? Some of my floor bolt nuts are tenaciously hanging onto the bolts. The last one even started turning the bolt instead of breaking free.
Chuck Thompson
1955 18' Chris Craft Continental
1950 30' Chris Craft Express
1955 Concordia Yawl #26 (under restoration)
Can you reach opposing faces of the nut with a hammer. If you can use two hammers to give opposing flats a simultaneous smack. This will stretch the nut slightly. You have to time it right and strike accurately with a good size pair of hammers though.
The bolt that is being turned by the nut probably needs replaced.
It really is quite difficult to build an ugly wooden boat.
These are keel bolts so I cannot get to the bottom (Well, not easily).
Chuck Thompson
1955 18' Chris Craft Continental
1950 30' Chris Craft Express
1955 Concordia Yawl #26 (under restoration)
Yes I have had luck with PB blaster on bronze prop shaft nuts. Also, an impact wrench.
Knowledge: Tomatoes are fruit.
Wisdom: Tomatoes do not belong in fruit salad.
there are tools called nut splitters ,use google to find.
if you have some access to the top of the bolt, you could grip that with "large visegripps" to hold it stationary, while the nut is broken loose.( by all means, lq. wrench, heat, and prayers- all pressed into service here) once loose remove the visegrip and clean up the buggered threads- a "thread file is just the right tool for this... and then remove the nut.
I will check out nut splitters. Unfortunately, there is usually not a lot of thread to grip above the nuts. I have resorted to cutting out a piece of the floor I am removing to get vice grips on the bolt itself. I don't know why I haven't tried PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench yet. I guess I assumed they were for rusted stuff. I'll try them first.
Chuck Thompson
1955 18' Chris Craft Continental
1950 30' Chris Craft Express
1955 Concordia Yawl #26 (under restoration)
"Kroil" brand oil is the bomb! auto parts store, smells almost as good as CPES!
Is a nut splitter for, um , splitting the nut? I see the nuts getting cut off in your future .
Can you tighten down a bit , then grind the top of the threads a little? They may be peened over a bit , or just plain buggered up ?
Using a crescent wrench, backward, on a lawnmower blade. I wonder why the photo doesn't show the rest of his knuckles?![]()
Knowledge: Tomatoes are fruit.
Wisdom: Tomatoes do not belong in fruit salad.
There are some youtube videos of nut splitters in use. That's a great tool for frozen nuts! I can't help but wince and cross my legs though when I read "nut splitter." They should call it something else. I don't know what though--'nut buster" and "nut blaster" are even more uncomfortable. And just put "pneumatic" or "hydraulic" in front of that! Yikes!
Chuck Thompson
1955 18' Chris Craft Continental
1950 30' Chris Craft Express
1955 Concordia Yawl #26 (under restoration)
rather than buying a nut blaster ( dosen't quite have the same ring, does it?)....if youre lucky enought to have a dremel tool you could with the aid of a cut off disk, cut both sides of the offending nut and then split the remainder of the nut with a cold chisel .....done right the bolt will be uneffected
????
I was going to let it pass, but just couldn't. I think you're looking at the pic wrong. The crescent wrench is tightening the nut on the splitter. So - not only is the wrench held in the correct position, but there's little danger to the knuckles as the blade won't turn.
Or am I missing something?
Heating the nut up with torch, and then spraying CRC on it when still hot is pretty effective. As the nut/bolt cools it draws the CRC down the thread.
Lots of smoke ensues so a bit messy. A couple of heat, spray, cool cycles seem to help.
I've also used a grinder with a cutting blade to cut one side off the nut without damaging the thread of the bolt.
Brass would be easier to cut with a hacksaw as well than the steel stuff I've got more experience with.
We had hydraulic nut drivers at our disposal as well, with long control cables to get waaay back when things start shearing off and flying around.
Seconds Kroil. Best penetrating oil I've ever used.
I don't know about bronze but transmission fluid thinned down with spraying thinner (or acetone or similar) works very well on steel. I have seen a comparison of fluids (including WD40 and possibly Kroil) and this mixture was the best (reduction in required torque) by a significant amount. A bit of heat helps as well to draw it in.
Good Luck
Here's another thought. I once had a problem with some frozen nuts on 3/8 galv bolts ( not in a boat; residential situation). After struggling with heat, oil and force for the first two, I started using my Fein tool with the HSS flush cut blade. Slid "under" the nuts. Did the next ten in about 15 minutes with only cosmetic damage to the surface being fastened
Kevin
This new ship here is fitted according to the reported increase of knowledge among mankind. Namely, she is cumbered end to end with bells and trumpets and clocks and wires. It has been told to me she can call voices out of the air or the waters to con the ship while her crew sleep. But sleep though lightly. It has not yet been told to me that the sea has ceased to be the sea.--Rudyard Kipling
Heating the nut with an acetylene torch may do the job. You want a very hot, compact flame, so that you heat the nut quickly. The various formulations of "weasel piss" such as Akroil, WD40, PB blaster, etc, may help. the method that "Peerie" described in #2 works, either with two hammers, or a single hammer and a heavy dolly on the backside of nut opposite from the side you're whacking with a flat faced hammer. I have tried drilling a hole through the nut, just outside the threads on the stud. Didn't help. Then I used a bigger drill that almost broke through the outside of the nut, and then used a pneumatic cold chisel to drive the nut off. Worked fine. Obviously, it ruined the nut.
are you familiar with these? i've used them successfully a few times.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P
Impact drivers are great, but I'm not sure one would have the oomph needed for a 1 1/4" nut.....
I'm sure you have a battery drill and a cold chisel?- Drill three 1/8" holes (if nut is big enough, two will suffice on smaller), then use a cold chisel from above to split the nut, then you don't have to go laying out for a new tool, and the method works on anything from 1/2"-3"!
Greg
Don't get heated...get steamed up!
Well--we certainly have come up with a lot of ways to skin this cat! Thanks
Chuck Thompson
1955 18' Chris Craft Continental
1950 30' Chris Craft Express
1955 Concordia Yawl #26 (under restoration)
When you turn "away from the crescent", as in that pic (assuming righty-tighty), the sliding jaw bears on the far corner of that nut face, increasing the chance that the jaw will spread a bit and round the corner.
When you turn a crescent wrench "toward the crescent", the sliding jaw of the wrench grips the corner of the nut nearest the jaw's base, and that jaw is less likely to spread and slip.
Also, in my experience, mower blades always find a way to spin at the wrong moment. Always.![]()
Knowledge: Tomatoes are fruit.
Wisdom: Tomatoes do not belong in fruit salad.
just make sure the GD spark plug wire is off !!
Pneumatic impact wrenches are great tools for this purpose. Some of the 110 volt AC plug-in-the-wall electric impact wrenches have nearly as much power. The tricks are to ALWAYS use a six-point socket, and to take it easy. Dial the torque down and let the wrench hit it for a couple of minutes. Maybe 10,000 light impact hits will rattle the nut loose.
Second point first: I have to agree!
First point: Odd. I was always taught that turning the way you are suggesting puts more stress on the sliding portion & therefore will more likely bend/break it & cause more damage to a nut. Of course, the real solution is to use a proper box end whenever possible.
@ wizbang: Where's your spirit of adventure?Additionally, don't ever run a mower without the blade attached. It can get interesting very quickly!
If you are worried about damaging a nut, why would you have an adjustable spanner in your hand.
They are the last option before resorting to a cold chisel and hammer.
My keelbolt nuts are 2.5" square (on 1.5" bolts). I bet the Concordia's are even bigger than 1 1/4 now that I think about it. 1" bolt - so 1.5" nut? 1.75"?
Another vote for this stuff.
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I have read that in comparative tests a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid works very well to ease threaded fasteners apart.I suppose it helps to have the time to allow it to work.
You do see through to the important stuff, dontcha Lew? Nice catch![]()
Ha! Just note that I have been as guilty of "break" as I have been of "away."
Kevin
This new ship here is fitted according to the reported increase of knowledge among mankind. Namely, she is cumbered end to end with bells and trumpets and clocks and wires. It has been told to me she can call voices out of the air or the waters to con the ship while her crew sleep. But sleep though lightly. It has not yet been told to me that the sea has ceased to be the sea.--Rudyard Kipling