Best non-skid paint or additive ????

[Bluegill]

What is the best non-skid paint or non-skid additive ????
How about Interlux Intergrip 2398 ?
How about Interlux Interdeck ?
How about Rustoleum non-skid additive ?
How about sand ?
How about Duckworks non-skid additive ?

I am about to apply non-skid to my new build boat.

[Jay Greer]

My experience over the years with non skid paint has created a preferance for ground walnut shells as an additive. Silica and other sand products work well until it comes time to recoat the surface. Silica granuals are impossible to sand in order to created a tooth for re-painting. The only remedy being to strip the surface with chemical remover, a very messy and time consuming job! Walnut shell powder mixes easily with oil or water based paint and is a cinch to sand with power equipment when re-coating becomes necessary.
Jay

[Ian McColgin]

I'm with Jay in general - any good deck enamel whether traditional like Kirby's or something more modern and the pulverized walnut. In addition to earier to refinish (should you keep the boat a decade or so) they stay suspended in the paint better and I happen to like rolling it on rather than brushing (the nonskid will streak then) or sprinkling after.

On Marmalade I used Kirby's and walnut shells on the coach roof which is highly cambered but used SaniTred and it's special additive for the side decks where gravity was less a problem. If you can work with SaniTred, it really outshines anything.

[Thorne]

Also keep in mind the primary and secondary functions of the areas you're painting with non-skid. While sand or commercial non-skid materials may be great for keeping feet from slipping, think about the times that someone may sit there, or even possibly fall with their hands out. To avoid taking skin off yourself and crew, something with more texture (like walnut) is better than materials with more bite (like sand).

[kc8pql]

This stuff from System Three is my favorite. http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...Can-47p190.htm
It's ground polycarbonate (Lexan). Sprinkle it onto wet paint with a big salt shaker, let it dry, then seal with another coat of paint.
Being plastic, you can easily sand it between paint coats to get just the right amount of roughness, from very sharp and aggressive to just
a texture that won't cut you up when you kneel on it with bare knees. It is also easy to sand off if/when it comes time to re-do.
It's held up very well on Alaya.

[potomac]

Here's a link to a thread I started with a similar question.

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...ing&highlight=

My idea was simply to varnish without sanding between coats.

[wizbang 13]

I use 16 grit rocks up forward and the interlude product aft and in the cockpit .Jay is so correct,grinding sand is like grinding a stinking sidewalk ,but I have the big gun for the job .I always mix the product with the paint and I usually use epoxy under later,not enamal

[JimConlin]

This stuff from System Three is my favorite. http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...Can-47p190.htm
It's ground polycarbonate (Lexan). Sprinkle it onto wet paint with a big salt shaker, let it dry, then seal with another coat of paint.
Being plastic, you can easily sand it between paint coats to get just the right amount of roughness, from very sharp and aggressive to just
a texture that won't cut you up when you kneel on it with bare knees. It is also easy to sand off if/when it comes time to re-do.
It's held up very well on Alaya.

+ 1

I think that Interlux #2398 and Awlgrip's Griptex are the same stuff.
With LPU paints, I've found the 'coarse' grade of Griptex was about right. For a thicker paint, I'd start with the 'extra coarse'.

[Eddiebou]

Regardless of what agregate you use, be aware that you can make a real mess by not thinking through what you are doing. For instance, if you mix the ag in the paint, you can't go around touching up here and there. You need to neatly mask off all the adjacent areas where you DON'T want the non-skid. Sometimes it is better to paint only these areas (be careful of drips) and toss the ag into the air letting it fall in place. Of course it is necessary to remove any loose ag before painting over, or you'll end up with ag where you wanted smooth. A nice margin of smooth paint, like along the chine, or under a thwart for instance, or near your drain plug will make cleaning the boat a lot easier. This aproach is a lot neater than trying to cut a line with ag in the paint.
G' luck.

[Bluegill]

I'm with Jay in general - any good deck enamel whether traditional like Kirby's or something more modern and the pulverized walnut. In addition to earier to refinish (should you keep the boat a decade or so) they stay suspended in the paint better and I happen to like rolling it on rather than brushing (the nonskid will streak then) or sprinkling after.

I don't have a walnut tree, walnuts, nor pulverizer. Where can I get pulverized walnut shells ???

[kc8pql]

^^^ Sandblasting material suppliers

[Feazer]

When I was in the business we found a source for the small glass balls that are used in highway paint. It was not easy to find and the minimum order had to be large bags but this product was used extensively on head boats and custom sportfishermen and when combined with a good cross-linked urethane lasted three to four seasons of abuse.

[wizbang 13]

I just chatted and rambled about my experience in my other post ,sorry,but I would R E CC O M M END the interludeinterlux oproduct . Gd this apple thingy auto spell bs .walnut shells are not the end all ,they wear down quickly a d need the second coat of paint

[Garret]

I used standard hardware non-skid - shaken over wet Brightsides & then painted over with a second coat. I can second the kneeling/falling issues. Kneeling in shorts hurt & if you forgot and slid a knee on it, you'd have blood to clean up.

I plan on trying the Interlux product this time 'round & hope it's easier on the skin.

[JimConlin]

Shop around. Griptex is the same stuff (same company) and markups vary widely.

[chas]

From my sailboard background, I liked a product called ReDeck or somesuch. This was applied where necessary over the finish paint job, where determined necessary . I like the idea that the non-skid is separate and above the finish paint layer. I need about three gallons; anybody know a good source, near here? / Jim

[Feazer]

Been quite a few years since I did this kind of work so there are a number of products I am unfamiiiar with but suspect many are the same under different labels. Here are some points to remember doing this kind of work. Most of the jobs I did were yachts and many high end sportfishers who wanted a tough cockpit sole that would not blood stain.

The sharper the media the faster is cuts through the paint and less paint adhere to the peaks of the profile

The heavier and sharper the profile the more likely you are to have blood stains to deal with

Walnut shell guarantees a worn out deck in short time— the stuff crushes and breaks down

GripTex holds up better than walnut shell and is colored white ( usually ) so break-thrus don’t stand out so well

Sand blasting media like silica sand can be used on commercial jobs but only apply the used sand it is not as sharp
Carefully screen and re-screen used sand you don't need rust spots

Brush strokes and flow-out are not an issue so use a tough hide paint even two part urethanes if necessary

Yellows, most reds and similar tend to break down faster, i.e., the hide breaks down resulting is quicker fade less durability

Taping off is critical and laying out drainage or margins so you don’t have dirt collecting and staining the non-skid. You need water and dirt to run off and not collect in non-skid

Mixing media in the paint results in patchy job almost impossible to keep media evenly mix and suspended in paint.

Lay down heavy coat, sprinkle or broadcast media before paint can tack. Sweep or blow off excess and top coat.

Don’t pull tape until top coat is applied otherwise loose particles will foul your margins

Brushing final or top coat will ruin any good brush so use heavy brush you don’t need for anything else. Rollers work well

Recoating does or should not involve sanding ( abrasives on abrasives ) unless the profile is worn out. Recoat with 5% MEK

[Bluegill]

When you posters say to use walnut, what size walnut are you talking about (fine, medium, or coarse)?
I want anti-skid for the bottom of my fishing skiff. I surely do not want anything that will tear my skin.

GRIT	APPARENT SIZE	ESTIMATED ACTUAL DIAMETER	TEXTURE/FEEL	FIND MARINE CAT	FIND INDUST CAT
extra course walnut (1)	1.75			CLICK HERE
ground white rubber (2)	1.5	1 mm	soft/rubber	CLICK HERE	CLICK HERE
ground coffee (3)	1.0	0.66 mm
med/course walnut (4)	1.0			CLICK HERE	CLICK HERE
Rustoleum grit (5)	0.4		sharp
sugar (6)	0.3
40 grit sandpaper (7)	0.3		sharp
60 grit sandpaper (8)	0.25		sharp
80 grit sandpaper (9)	0.2		sharp
fine walnut (10)	0.2			CLICK HERE	CLICK HERE
150 grit sandpaper (11)	0.1		sharp
our micro sphere filler (13)	0.03

[Bluegill]

How about Duckworks non-skid additive ???How about Duckworks non-skid additive ???Non-Skid Paint Additive
It is a granular polypropylene powder which is mixed with latex or oil based paint at a ratio of 4:1 by volume. The specific gravity is about the same as the paint so this material does not float or settle out in the can. Once mixed, it will keep indefinitely. We recommend that you get an empty paint can from your paint supplier and mix the non-skid in that. Mask the area to be treated and roll on for best results. It may be brushed as well. One pound makes about a gallon of non-skid paint.

How about Duckworks non-skid additive ???

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Sanitred uses rubber granules, check their website as well.