Taking Lines / Restoration of Matson Bros. Clinker Dinghy

[BryceN]

G'day,


Like so many before me, I'm a novice to wood working & boat building yet have jumped in & purchased a 14' traditionally-built clinker rowing dinghy to take the lines off (Stage 1) and restore to a sound condition (Stage 2). I've joined theforum to share a bit of that journey & also to tap into the wealth of experience in the WB community, so I can make as good a job as possible of restoring the old girl. I would value any comments on the below, particularly repairing the keel & taking the lines off.


Re the latter, I am referencing both Eric Dow's method (WB 210) and David Littleton-Taylor's (WB 19). I also have a digi copy of the mighty Boats – A Manual for their Documentation (thanks toWB for the free dnload!) and I will be referring to it.


The dinghy's age is unknown but her builders were apparently Fred and OccMatson, (the Matson Bros.), 3^rd generation traditional boat builders of Yowie Bay, Port Hacking, Australia. Their grandfather was a Dane, jumped ship in Sydney and ended up making his livelihood building boats and hiring them to day-tripping city folk at the Audley 'Pleasure Grounds', in the Royal National Park (Australia's oldest Nat. Park).


I don't see too many old, traditionally built row boats around Port Hacking so given that and her local pedigree, I view taking her lines as a bit of a necessity. David Payne over at the Australian National Maritime Museum has offered to provide some critical feedback on the results of that process. Ideally one day there will be a setof plans available for what I believe is, a locally important boat.


My mate and I built a strongback and the boat finally came inside our fully enclosed garage about 3 weeks back. She has been initially inverted for taking her lines and is supported along her keelson by 7 props, 6 being 3”x3”, which are bearing her entire weight. While almost all of the frames are absent due to rot / wastage, her 4 stringers are nearly entirely intact and fastened, her planking overall is in good condition and fastened. Her 4 thwarts are still in place, giving something to hold her shape while inverted. The boat has collided stem-on at some stage with something pretty solid, as there is a 'ding' in the stem / forefoot (which is one piece of timber). The previous owner did mount an outboard on her, size unknown, for his boys to blat around in. Might explain the ding...

My main concern with her was always the keel as the bottom from the waterline down had been glassed. The keelson and fastenings (from inside the boat) appear to be in good condition. I've removed the 'glass off her keel, skeg and most of the garboard planks. Her keel is in 2 separate longitudinal sections, separated by a ~5mm (0.197”) gap (see photo). The gap is below the f'wd end of the skeg; which I'm thinking, along with the lack of frames in the corresponding area, would explain the ~8mm (0.315”)hog in the same area (see photo).


There is some worm damage to the keel - see photos. Photo where the awl is kinda horizontal has the awl penetrating ~17mm (0.669”) into the keel. Other shot where the awl handle is close to the camera, the tip penetrates ~22mm (0.866”) straight down into the keel. Is there a modern day wonder-goo that can fill and seal such worm holes? I'm hoping the volume of worm damage has not compromised the strength of the keel significantly...


Re.taking lines, I'm thinking that I need take the hog out of the keel by way of a prop and fox wedges under the apex of the hog. Then make her level longitudinally and laterally and start taking the lines.


Re. repair of the keel gap, my initial thinking is that maybe a new section could be scarfed in such that the three pieces +/- lock together. Not an attractive prospect but I hope to achieve a strong, lasting finish...


I'd love to hear from forum folk more experienced in these matters than I, and look forward to posting updates as this project, which I am very passionate about, progresses.


Photos! They are on Flickr. I hope you can view them, either by searching for "Matson Bros. Dinghy Restoration by Bryce" or try this url: http://www.flickr.com/photos/3187247...7631048519572/

Hope either option works, as the "Manage Attachments" part of posting a new thread has me a bit stumped. Any tips on using such tools appreciated.

Thanks,

Bryce

[Peerie Maa]

As the boat is only 14 foot it would make more sense to replace the entire keel, rather than faff around scarfing in short bits.

I am not familiar with Flickr, and as you have posted with protection it has not allowed me to copy the URL as I can with Photobucket Hopefully someone who knows Flickr will be along soon.

[Thad]

;img]http://www.flickr.com/photos/31872479@N03/7773665194/[/img]
looks like a big Manx cat. Good job.
Edited to say: That didn't work. Someone else....

[Peerie Maa]

nope still not working on my system.

[beernd]

I don't know flicker, but maybe if you get rid of the protection, things might work.
Meanwhile, if you post on photobucket, and don't protect your album, there are lots of forumites who could post the pictures.

Getting curiouser and curioser

[BryceN]

Thx for feedback thus far. Have just changed Flickr settings & tested link after I logged out, seems to work...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/3187247...7631048519572/

Keen to hear from any other amateur folk who have taken lines off an old girl with no prior experience. Guess I'll also search forums for such posts too.

Cheers,

Bryce

[BryceN]

Thanks Nick,

Any thoughts of printed or online resources re. keel replacement on such a vessel? Have searched a no. of times but only found resources for much larger vessels.

Cheers!

[Peerie Maa]

Thanks Nick,

Any thoughts of printed or online resources re. keel replacement on such a vessel? Have searched a no. of times but only found resources for much larger vessels.

Cheers!

Support the boat on a strongback under the keel and plumb her level to remove any twist. Replace the timbering needed to put some strength back into her. Then either cradle her with the keel free or flip her over, supporting her so that she will not change shape. Carefully find and remove all of the fastenings securing the keel. Make a copy and reverse the process. I expect the keel and hog (the timber on top of the keel that the garboards are clenched to) are separate pieces, so that the hogg stays in the boat when the keel is off.

[David Cockey]

Take the lines at the inside corner of each lap rather than at fixed waterline heights and buttock widths. Then you can draw the curves of the laps and fair those.

[Thorne]

Seems to work now. Should be a fun and rewarding project.

[BryceN]

Thanks Gents,

Appreciate all replies and assistance

Got a bit of work to do (mostly away from the shed at this time); will respond with updates and more calls for help as need be.

Cheers,

Bryce

[BryceN]

After a hiatus of some days(!) I'm back to the clinker dinghy.

Question for knowledgeable hands - does taking the lines off have to be done with the boat right side up? Or moreover, is it imperative for getting a good result?

The boat is inverted and level on a good number of props under her keelson.

NB - I call the outer-most piece of the backbone the keel. From what I can tell this is directly nailed to the keelson from the top of the keelson (the longitudinal timber inside the bottom of the boat, which is wider than the keel).
It appears the garboards and keel are all nailed through from the top side of the keelson.

So if anyone has thoughts on pros / cons of taking the lines while a boat is inverted, I'd love to hear from them.

Many thanks!

[Peerie Maa]

It depends on what you want the lines for. If you want to build from them you need to draw the inside of the plank. Lifting the lines when she is upright and the inside detail is available is easier and you can capture a lot more info than just working from the outside.
In dingy building the keel is on the outside and the head of the tee than forms tha rebate is the hogg. Keelsons are fitted in bigger boats and go on top of the floors.
Planking is always fastened from the outside. I expect what you are seeing on the inside of the hogg are the rooves of the clinker nails of the garboard seam.

[BryceN]

Thanks Nick,

Want the lines so she is documented but also in enough detail so a replica can be built if someone wishes to. Guess I'll document her from the outside first then roll her over for the interior.

Thanks for your reply mate. Much appreciated

[Peerie Maa]

In that case I suggest that you do most of the work inside.
You can lift and fair the lines two ways. Conventional waterlines, buttocks and diagonals. Those will be used for lofting the moulds and back bone for a replica. You can also measure the widths and elevations of the laps inside, this will allow you to draw the run of the planking. Some builders vary the plank widths around the midships section to suit the form of the boat, that is also important for documenting her.

[BryceN]

Good stuff Nick. Again, much appreciated.

Cheers!