I note that this is my first build for a few reasons.
1. It's my first build. (obvious)
2. I have made mistakes already and in a couple cases, I just pressed for the sake of time/resources.
3. I have read that you can either have 1 canoe or more than 2, :) I suspect that there will be more builds in the future (eureka possibly, maybe down the road a S&G kayak.
Here are some of the details of the build.
Bottom: 1/4 inch Marine Plywood (fir)
Sides: "1/4" inch Birch Plywood (pretty sure the glue is indoor only, the whole lot is getting an epoxy coating) the thickness is actually 3/16th or 5mm it's not a full quarter.
Gunwales: Started as: 2"x6"x20' Spruce
Stems: Started as: 4x4 Western Red Cedar
Notes on Materials:
Marine ply chosen for the bottom was picked for a few reasons: I'm like 215 lbs, and I wanted the bottom to be a bit thicker.
The birch plywood was not what I preferred honestly, but it was better than underlayment as far as durability goes, the downside is the glue. I have read that the epoxy, if done right , can seal it up.
The cedar was chosed mainly because when I went to find hardwoods in the size I wanted, they either didn't have it, or they wanted a ton of money. Secondly, it looks good and I see whole canoes made of cedar. There are probably many reasons why I should not have used it, but I did, and it ought to work.
LOA: 18' 6" (will double check, I think that's right)
Beam at Gunwales: 38"
Beam at Chine: 31"
Depth at bow and stern: 18"
Depth amidships: 16"
Rocker: About 1.5" But I have not measured it yet.
I was feeling like I wanted a little less rocker and after a slightly incorrect scarfing job I sort of had to. I achieved my depth by a batten which was positioned 1 inch from the top (sheer) of the side panel and 1 inch from the bottom. Actually in my case, it was 1 3/16th inch because of my incorrect scarf.
The reason for less rocker: I'd rather not have the ends out of the water, for straighter tracking, although maybe this will hurt the performance, we will see. Performance is probably not what this canoe is made for though, and I knew that going in.
Side and bottom panels were scarfed with a router, you will see the scarfing jig when we get to pictures.
Stems are nailed and epoxied to the sides. (using bronze alloy nails made from melted down, heavily taxed, Olympic medals, .. ok not really, they are brass from CLC)
The bottom of the hull was measured out by stretching an inner strand of paracord (550 parachute cord) along the bottom to determine a center line. And then at 6 inch intervals, offsets were measured out and marked onto the plywood. It sounds error prone, But it seemed to work for me because I took my time.
I cut the bottom of the hull as close to my batten line as possible (leaving myself no room for error) with a jigsaw, which previously had not been very accurate for me, but I gave it another chance and it worked very well.
I stitched the bottom to the sides with copper wire through 1/16 holes
Gunwales are scuppered and have almost equal width for spacers and for the actual gunwale portion..
I dont have the exact dimension of the gunwale at the moment but they are roughly an inch square, and to start them out I made a 2"x1" x 19' strip, and then I cut the scuppers on that piece using a router jig and then I ripped that piece in half to have two identically scuppered pieces ( for now )
A tip which Dave gave to me was to get a 2x12x20 which should yield a board with less knots since the cut would most likely be made from wood which is closer to the center of the tree. (know what I mean?) Well, after I ripped the scuppered gunwales, one of them broke in two spots and then subsequently, broke again in a third spot. New gunwales? Nope, the big orange store had nothing suitable on Friday night, and it's easier to patch it like I did the first two breaks. (oh well)
That pretty much brings it up to date.
What's Next?: Fillet the chine with my own custom blend of wood and epoxy (it is so secret, not even I know the combination of wood is in my powder/sawdust that I mix in) I started this today, but I ran out of time. I smoothed them with a stir stick and then made them look good by putting down a bit of wax paper for a nice clean radius, I'll see how it looks tomorrow, but test 1.0 of this method resulted in a really strong joint.. I took a chisel and the back of my axe to my test piece today and it was super strong, the wood was breaking but the epoxy stuck to every bit of wood which it had contact with. I'm satisfied.
After doing the fillet the rest of the way round, I'll clean it up a bit and then put down a strip of fiberglass on the seam too. (overkill? idk, I think I should)
Once that is done, I'll flip it over and trim the wires off, and work on sealing up the outside of the hull with some 4oz fiberglass and epoxy.
After fiberglass, there is a small outwale that needs to go on. then varnish, varnish, varnish, then the yoke, and seats.
Side profile, no stems yet: the bow has the short board stretcher with the design in the wood., it should look neat.
My router scarf jig , it's tough to make out, but the sides at 7.5 degree (or so) and are made of wood, with aluminium (3/4) to span between the sides.
Scarfs look pretty good.. I'm satisfied.
Scupper cutting jig, it works well, I modified it the other day and added a shop vac port on it.. i estimate that i capture around 90% of the waste material right into the vac. It's just all thread, some wing nuts, and some regular nuts out of view to provide a cmalping system... it's not the best and it sticks sometimes, but it works.
Scupper Jig from afar with shop vac attachment.
More photos tomorrow perhaps.
If you stopped by and took a look at this craziness, Thank you for checking it out. I do things a bit differently and am learning a lot on my first build. Lessons learned: find a bigger work area, and don't work in the garage in the summer in Texas, don't use boards with knots for gunwales. Use the correct plywood from the start (next project is going to be the good stuff, meranti or okume,, I did finally find a supplier for it in dallas (garland actually), or I'll buy from CLC. Line up scarfs better. Oh the list goes on.. Till next time!..