Supersized Screwdriver

[kstokes]

I'm trying to remove the skeg, prop and rudder from my 1954 Lyman Islander.

The obvious fastener is this huge slotted screw which is about 3/4".



My biggest screwdriver is less than 1/2 the width of the slot, and I cannot turn it. What is the right way to remove this?

[v10builder1]

kstokes,

Bob is +1 on the tool for the slot. I have a tool in my kit that I would try along with the tie rod socket if this job was mine - I have a Makita cordless impact driver with a 1/4" hex chuck and a 3/8" socket adapter. This might help break loose the large slotted fastener you have. It won't deliver enough torque to shear the head off the fastener, either.

Boat on,

Joe

[Samson Post]

Before you try turning it, you might try tapping the end of the screwdriver with a hammer. Most times this will "loosen" the screw and "seat" the screwdriver, allowing you to remove the screw without ruining the slot. Light taps..nothing destructive

[willin woodworks]

Holding the tip of a big fat soldering iron on the head of the screw can go a long way towards loosening it up as well. Be mindful that the fumes from the paint are best not inhaled deeply.....

Start with a couple of sharp raps with a hammer as suggested above.

You must need a new tool, go buy a big ass screw driver!!!

[kc8pql]

Are you sure it's a screw? Given it's size, it wouldn't surprise me if there's a nut on the other end somewhere. Kinda reminds me of a fin head bolt, though they usually aren't slotted.

[Ian McColgin]

Cleaning the slot, tapping and heat are all good, as would be the tie rod tool if you want to buy one. I was faced with something like this a couple of times. Till this thread, I did not know there was such a thing as a tie rod adjusting tool.

One solution was to take a length of scrap steel rod that was a bit fatter than the screw head, ground it to leave a shallow ridge down the center, and turned it with a pipe wrench.

The other was with a suitable punch to tape against one side of the slot near the perimeter.

[Gib Etheridge]

Probably not a bolt since it would have to pass through the shaft tube. If you're going to replace the skeg you can just cut the wood away from the screw and twist it out with vice grips.

[kstokes]

Great Suggestions!

I'll see if I can pick up a tie rod thingamabob

You must need a new tool, go buy a big ass screw driver!!!

The biggest ass one they had at Lowe's was no bigger than the one I already have.

Are you sure it's a screw? Given it's size, it wouldn't surprise me if there's a nut on the other end somewhere.

I'll bet you are right. That would make things easier..

Thanks for the great advice I'll let y'all know how it turns out.

-Kevin

[Gold Rock]

The best answer I've found is to go buy a cheap cold chisel and grind it to shape. I've done this with a variety of sizes and now have a small collection. Since the shafts are hex shaped in cross section they will fit into a bit brace for driving up to a certain size and larger ones can be fitted into an appropriate sized socket and hooked to a T-handle, speed driver, or what have you. The truest beauty is that since you're grinding them to shape you can fit them to the exact length/width of the slot.

[willin woodworks]

Garrett Wade sells a set of massive screwdrivers. They have plastic handles with a serious grip and the shank goes all the way through with a big fat cap at the top of the handles so you whack them with a hammer. The shanks have a hex in them so you can put a wrench on them. I bought 'em five or six years ago just to have a set of screw drivers that I could abuse and they have paid for themselves three fold. I have bashed on them, put wrenches on them and generally beat the crap out of them and they just won't quit. The biggest straight blade is bigger than any I've ever owned and I've gotten a lot of use out of it. Note: These are not the screw drivers that are the copies of the ones used on army tanks.....

There's never a bad excuse for buying new tools....and getting that skeg off sure seems like a good one to me.

I am not a paid endorser for Garret Wade...

[David G]

In addition to the fine suggestions you've received, I'd add this: If a screw is stuck, sometimes it's better to TIGHTEN it just a tad before you attempt to loosen it.

[Jay Greer]

Sears and other tool supply houses offer an impact driver that consists of a steel cylinder that when struck with a hammer or mallet will rotate in a pre-set direction. The tool has a square shank that accepts sockets as well as a variety of screw driver bits. You might want to apply some penetrating oil to the head.
It couldn't hurt.
Jay

[kstokes]

Garrett Wade sells a set of massive screwdrivers. They have plastic handles with a serious grip and the shank goes all the way through with a big fat cap at the top of the handles so you whack them with a hammer.

Hmm, is this them? http://www.garrettwade.com/x-hd-scre...-4/p/05R01.03/

-Kevin

[willin woodworks]

nope, I said these are not the copies of the ones from the army tanks

[John B]

Thats a big head for a wood screw,I wonder if it has a captivated nut up there in the skeg. I'd start with cleaning it all back including the sides of the skeg to look for any evidence of that.

Using the impact driver upside down never is easy but I'd reserve that for second. ... like above I'd tap it a few times with socket set extension and good solid engineers hammer say, and then go big screwdriver with a square shank and maybe even zip tie a good long arm spanner on it , big crescent maybe. Its all about preserving the slot and getting maximum pressure up/ in so its all judicious 'force'.
But don't do anything until all the slot is cleared and the paint seal is broken , sort of scribed around with a point.

[seedy]

This one lists the blade dimensions, which might be helpful...http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/pag...411,43417&ap=1

[Dannybb55]

I have a blacksmiths sway and a huge flat bit that fits it. A cordless impact driver with a 16 or 24 slotted bit will do wonders.
Danny Nye

[Jay Greer]

I can see from the foto that the slot is already damaged. It is very important not to bugger the slot as cam out of the bit is most often the result. If the slot is
damaged it can be repaired using a jewlers engraving tool. With this tool, the sloping sides of a damaged slot can be re-carved.
http://www.amazon.com/Gravers-Jewele.../dp/B000RB78R0
Jay

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Here you go:




$19.50 from Leevalley. I have one, and it's handy

OOOOPs didn't see Seedy's post.

[the_gr8t_waldo]

from the picture, it appers that replacement of the wood protion is what youre trying to do. just because there's a straight slot, does not mean it gets unscrewed. rather that monkey with buying tools and possibly end up stripping the head anyway...why not just grind/chissel away the wood? once the sourounding wood is clear of the area( it won't be too hard to preserve this part as a pattern for the replacement part) once open to inspection, you'll find it much easyer to figure out what this does, and how best to outsmart it.

[timo4352]

You might try contacting the pros for an answer on the bolt/screw thingy.
http://www.lymanboat.com/
My first real boat was a '53 Islander. She's long gone now so I can't take a look for you. I can see the bronze/brass skeg/rudder in my head though.
Good luck

[Bob Cleek]

I hate to be a party pooper, but it seems my lot in life that whenever I've come across a screw like that below the waterline, it's just electrolysized enought that when I put the screwdriver (or whatever implement of destruction) to it, half the damn head busts off. Arrrrghh!

[bahma]

I use my old brace and bit drill for over sized screws. I have assorted bits for different sized screws. The slot must be completely cleared of old paint, and as suggested above give it a couple of good whacks with a heavy hammer, the brace provides the necessary power to turn the strongest of fasteners.
Also make sure this not a machine bolt with a nut and lock washer.

[Monkey Butler]

Goggle this:

Drag Link Socket

[kstokes]

Goggle this:

Drag Link Socket

ok I goggled it - very cool, this looks like it was made for this kind of job.



In any case, all my bolts are out. The main problem I was having is that I am a complete idiot. There was a nut on top of the skeg that I didn't see because it was night time and I was lying on the floor looking up. It was still difficult to get out because the bolt was bent inside the wood, but I managed to do so without destroying the skeg.

Thanks everybody for your great suggestions.

-Kevin

[Dannybb55]

We could really use a side view to get an idea bout the fastener.
Danny

[kc8pql]

There was a nut on top of the skeg that I didn't see...

I was pretty sure that was going to end up being the case. Glad you got it out.

[Jay Greer]

I am really glad to hear that you got the job done without having to go to drastic means!
I have to do these things quite often and so have my own pet remedies.
Just for future reference, the brace and screw driver bit are also a great help for this sort of thing.
Jay

[kstokes]

I am really glad to hear that you got the job done without having to go to drastic means!

Me too although I am glad I made this thread because I learned a few things.