Mizzen on transom

[JimD]

I have to mount a small mizzen on this boat



Because of the way the cockpit is built, by far the easiest way would be to place the mast directly on the outside of the transom. Anyone have any bright ideas on ways to do this?

[Lewisboater]

Give us a picture or two of the transom please...

[Ian McColgin]

Make the mast an extension of the rudder stock. If the sail is laced and the boom has simple jaws, it will set fine regardless of rudder. However, rather than a plank boomkin from one quarter angled to reach centerline under the clew, you might want the tiller and boomkin to be one stick where slight movement to counter weatherhelm will be augmented by easing the mizzen. And so on.

That latter idea is not far from the idea of a sort of outboard motor sail that can be fitted to a dink without an other sailing rig.

Depending on how big you make the rudder, the mizzen will not do much about the overall balance.

Have fun.

[JimD]

Give us a picture or two of the transom please...

[JimD]

Make the mast an extension of the rudder stock.

Interesting idea but that sounds like too much load on the light steel gudgeons and pintles.

[Brian Palmer]

With the motor well on one side and the ladder on the other, there is not a lot of room to work with.

Put it inside the transom and off center between the swim ladder and the tiller. It will then be a handy thing to grab hold to as you use the ladder. It really does not take much clearance to still allow the tiller to swing 45 degrees.

Sheet it to a small boomkin, but I am not sure where that would go.

Brian

[JimD]

With the motor well on one side and the ladder on the other, there is not a lot of room to work with.

Put it inside the transom and off center between the swim ladder and the tiller. It will then be a handy thing to grab hold to as you use the ladder. It really does not take much clearance to still allow the tiller to swing 45 degrees.

Sheet it to a small boomkin, but I am not sure where that would go.

Brian

Brian, inside would be a big pita. Outside is much better. There's actually plenty of room between the ladder and the rudder and that's the obvious spot to put it. The easiest way would be to just screw in a few galvanized 2" conduit clamps like this (How can you tell I'm on a tight budget) onto the transom:



They are just a bit bigger in diameter than the mast so the mast would slide easily into place. There'd have to be a block of some sort at the bottom to keep the mast from sliding into the ocean but that's easy to do, too. So that's the sort of idea in my head. Not very elegant, but functional.

[Plumbtex]

you could use your conduit clamps and shape a block of wood to hide them. The block to keep the mast from going through can be affixed to the mast above the partner rather than to the transom as a mast step. What are you ideas for the boomkin?

[JimD]

..The block to keep the mast from going through can be affixed to the mast above the partner rather than to the transom as a mast step. What are you ideas for the boomkin?

That could work. Lots of options for the boomkin but probably much the same as for the mast.

[Nicholas Scheuer]

Agree with JimD. My Shearwater yawl has an offset Mizzen opposite a motor cutout, and out of the way of the rudder. The mast is mounted on the outside to the transom.

A boomkin is needed, of course.

[htom]

New mounting hardware for the new rudderstock, which has very large hingepins -- that can be replaced by the butt of the mizzen mast.

[JimD]

New mounting hardware for the new rudderstock, which has very large hingepins -.

That's crazy talk. Way too much (expensive) new stuff. The rudder is fine. The hardware is fine. No sense in heading off in unnecessary and costly new tangents. The mast is going to clamp onto the transom. Quick, easy, simple, cheap.

[Gib Etheridge]

Looks like you've got it, but heres a little solution pollution...

Blocks mounted on either side of the rudder at the top and bottom of the transom with easily removable cross pieces (to make it easy to remove the rudder) with your conduit clamps or wooden gudgeons(?) mounted to the cross pieces.

Boomkin could be 2 beams mounted to the hull just below the rail and above the white stripe extending forward for 2 feet or so and aft as necessary with a cross piece at the after end that has a traveler mounted to it's upper surface and stays (if you need them) from the bottom ends of the traveler down to chain plates bolted through the chines.

A nice touch would be to laminate some curve into the boomkin beams.

[Clive P]

What are the aerodynamics of mounting a mizzen out at the corner of the transom, away from the tiller?
Clive P

[Ian McColgin]

The wind does not really care if a mast is off-center, but you have to change the trim a little as you tack.

By the way, the "outboard sail" I mentioned does not impose so much strain that normal little dink pintles and gudgeons are harmed.

[JimD]

...

By the way, the "outboard sail" I mentioned does not impose so much strain that normal little dink pintles and gudgeons are harmed.

I should not have doubted your advice, Ian. But I'd like to keep it clear and separate from the rudder anyway.

[Brian Palmer]

Our Elver canoe yawl had the mizzen way off to the side, and it did not affect its function as a sail. It was pretty small but was a good balance sail. You could really tell from the feel of the helm that it had an effect on sail balance. It was a standing lug with a sprit boom and generally well mannered with no twist. Just a single sheet for control.

Brian