Repairing hole in planks on Barbour

[jzinckgra]

I inherited my dad's 1960 Barbour. Not sure on the model, but it's a 17' lapstrake (red oak). I know how to drive boat's but no nothing about repairing them. Here are the issues and my questions:

1. There was significant rot in two of the strakes where it meets the transom such that I cut out the bad section resulting in a 4"x6" hole. This is the bottom two planks and would be below the water line. I know I probably should replace the planks, but not sure how to do it, where to get the red oak, etc. For now, I have cut a piece of 1/4" ply and screwed the "patch" to the back inside of the planks, which would be followed by another layer which would run flush to the existing planks. I was then sealing with some West 105/405 epoxy then read that's not the best thing to use since it will likely crack once exposed to water.
a. what else can I do to fix this hole? Should I use 5200 instead or perhaps Life seal? Is the ply patch a bad idea?

2. The overlap of the planks underneath were sealed by some caulking (perhaps 5200?), but the seams are all cracked along with the paint. I was going to scrape these clean and seal again, but not sure what caulk if any to use.

3. Someone suggested I use G/flex for the repairs I am attempting, but I am more confused the more I read.

Again, I know little about wooden boat repairs, but what little I've read says that lapstrake planks need to flex, so epoxy of any kind is bad. I can see the planks are attached on the inside to the ribs with screws. I assume the varnish on the inside also provides a seal against water intrusion. Anyways, what started as a little vacuuming, washing, poking and proding has led to quite a task, but I am up for it as I have many memories with my dad and the boat and want it to "live on". thanks.
Pic: http://img801.imageshack.us/img801/3378/damage1o.jpg

[AndreasJordahlRhude]

Hello,

Highly doubtful that RED OAK was used on this lapstrake boat. Red oak has no decay resistance. WHITE OAK was and is used for boat construction.

I wonder if the planks are plywood and not solid lumber. Plywood was commonly used by many builders of outboard and stern drive lapstrake speed boats. If it is plywood, it probably was Douglas fir.

White oak was used for keel and keelson and ribs and stem and other structural framing members of boats such as these. I suspect they also used Philippine mahogany for decks and seats and transom and other bright varnished components.

Scarfing in a plank repair is a perfectly acceptable means of repair.

Barbour Boats records are housed in a college archive in Greenville, NC. I was doing Grady-White Boats research once and came across the Barbor collection.

There may be some Barbour brochures/ads archived in the Glassic Library of www.fiberglassics.com

Andreas

[nedL]

As I remember, I think Barbour boats were plywood lapstrake (which is a fine construction method). The path that you are following (what is called a "butt block" on the inside with a scarfed in section of planking) will be perfectly functional. As for the need for 'flexibility', yes, lapstrake boats do flex, but your area of repair short plank sections right at the transom will not see any real movement. If you were making a repair on a boat that was to be a show quality boat and judged, the repair would normally involve replacing longer sections of planking, and making scarfs (to avoid butt blocks), but what you are doing will be perfectly fuctional if limiited to only two plank ends. You could use epoxy, 3M 5200, or just about any other material for this. Just keep in mind that the stronger the adhesive (i.e. epoxy or 5200) the more difficult a future repair will be.

[jzinckgra]

As I remember, I think Barbour boats were plywood lapstrake (which is a fine construction method). The path that you are following (what is called a "butt block" on the inside with a scarfed in section of planking) will be perfectly functional. As for the need for 'flexibility', yes, lapstrake boats do flex, but your area of repair short plank sections right at the transom will not see any real movement. If you were making a repair on a boat that was to be a show quality boat and judged, the repair would normally involve replacing longer sections of planking, and making scarfs (to avoid butt blocks), but what you are doing will be perfectly fuctional if limiited to only two plank ends. You could use epoxy, 3M 5200, or just about any other material for this. Just keep in mind that the stronger the adhesive (i.e. epoxy or 5200) the more difficult a future repair will be.

Stupid question, but would lapstrake plywood appear like any other ply you would buy at lowes/HD? If so, this does not resemble that, as there are no laminated sheets. The wood is solid core and appears dark red in appearance.

[erster]

Your planking should be mahogany.

[jzinckgra]

Your planking should be mahogany.

Yes, that is what I think it could be. Not sure if you can view the pic in the link, but this is a shot of the planking on the inside.
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/9690/plankingf.jpg

[erster]

Check your private message feature. You have a lot going on here with an attempt to hodge podge this repair.

[nedL]

Hmm, then I stand corrected. I thought the Barbours I saw years ago were plywood planked. My appologies. Erster (Mike) knows his stuff, he'll get you going.

[erster]

Nedl I was responding to his no layers in the planking. There were some with plywood. The more expensive ones had solid mahogany sides with the plywood bottom. But the painted sides normally had plywood for the strakes except for the top feature plank which was solid and was varnished clear. It just depended on the customer.

[nedL]

Thank you Mike, that does make sense. I never saw too many of them up N.J. way, but there were a few around over the years.

[erster]

Thank you Mike, that does make sense. I never saw too many of them up N.J. way, but there were a few around over the years.

Thats one of those boats that fit a nitch market that have so little data by comparison openly avaliable with so few people left to secure the boat's place in the mix. You could walk into their place along the water's edge on any given day and chat while dust was being made.

http://digital.lib.ecu.edu/1584#details

[tomtoledo]

I have a 1959 Barbour Silver Clipper model which sounds like what you have. I restored her last year. Actually the lap strake planks are mahogany and the frame is mahogany too. The only oak is the keel on the outside. If you google Barbour boats you will find a website where a guy shows you how he cut about 2" off the end of his Barbour and replaced the transom. Barbours have a bad habit of going bad in this area. Also instead of caulking the laps from the outside, I would suggest letting glue run down between the laps from the inside. This will seal her up nicely. Good luck! Tom