Interlux Perfection

[Ocean Spray]

I am currently painting the hull above the waterline of my fiberglass Raven with Interlux Perfection urethane two part paint. After mixing A + B together, how long is the remaining paint useable?

[JimConlin]

I haven't used perfection, but I've stretched other linear polyurethane coatings, epoxy primers and epoxy resin overnight by covering the pot and putting it on ice in a cooler. SWMBO did not like the smell in the kitchen fridge.

[wizbang 13]

the problem with perfection is that they put the catalist ina half pint metal paint can with a regular metal lid. In a short time, the lid gets glued down. Alittle longer , the catalist goes rock hard. I have half a dozen of half filled part A with no more part b. Buying the hardener seperatly is not easy.
I eventually learned to not remove the lid, but to punch a small hole and when done, stick a pencil in it.
But I quit using Perfection and switched to Epifanes cuz the hardener has a proper plastic screw cap and because of that, lasts much longer.
European paint cans are better.

[Bill Perkins]

I've had this problem too. After the cap is glued in place I had assumed that at least it's airtight at that point ;but maybe not . Would the hardener last indefinitely in the absence of oxygen ?I keep mine in the basement fridge ,thinking there may be a slow chemical reaction going on ,even if the can is sealed .Maybe we should add a faucet washer befor closeing the Perfection catalist . I'll try this on my current can .

Another question : has anyone tried useing the hardener of one LPU brand for that of another of the same ratio? This works with 2:1 epoxies and is handy when you somehow become temporarily invested in two different brands .I like Perfection Jade Green ,which lured me away from Detco .Trying to keep two different hardeners useable doubles the problem of course.

[keith66]

the problem with perfection is that they put the catalist ina half pint metal paint can with a regular metal lid. In a short time, the lid gets glued down. Alittle longer , the catalist goes rock hard. I have half a dozen of half filled part A with no more part b. Buying the hardener seperatly is not easy.
I eventually learned to not remove the lid, but to punch a small hole and when done, stick a pencil in it.
But I quit using Perfection and switched to Epifanes cuz the hardener has a proper plastic screw cap and because of that, lasts much longer.
European paint cans are better.

I too prefer Epifanes 2 pack, it isnt cheap but i find it gives far better results.

[Clinton B Chase]

I've been using Perfection and it has a little screw cap on the hardener. Not sure what the other posters are talking about.

After mixing, if you cover and put in a cool place you may be able to recoat in 16 hrs using the same stuff. It may require thinning, however. I have a better time mixing fresh batches each time. It takes a total of 9 oz of mixed Perfection to coat a 12' Acorn dinghy, so you can mix a lot less than you may think, helping you not use too much up. It does need 4 coats, especially with sanding between coats.

I am a convert to Perfection; like it very much.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

+2 for Perfection. I like two part paints in general... they hold their gloss much longer, and have much better abrasion resistance.

[wizbang 13]

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t+Polyurethane
screwcap?

[purri]

fibreglass?

[Thad Van Gilder]

I have bought perfection at west marine and it never had a screw cap. for the record, i liked interthane better...

-Thad

[ChrisBen]

Just used some recently and as Jim says above, you can put it in the fridge overnight. And even covered tightly, it does in fact stink.
I ordered it through the Marina and I believe they get it from Lewis Marine but I have seen it at the local West marine with the screw on cap on the hardener.

[Clinton B Chase]

The screw cap is in there. It pops out.
Perfection is easier to mix than Interthane and has a better gloss.

[wizbang 13]

well, the new screw cap is a game changer. it is my only problem with it.
I think one woild need a dedicated fridge, one without food. The 2333n solvent has got to be the stinkiest stuff in the quiver.

[JimConlin]

The Awlgrip converters come in screw-top containers.

I had Awlgrip tech support recommend using MEK as reducer for a particular application- the thin coat after broadcasting griptex nonskid grit. I'm tempted to try it for other purposes.

[NorthBayBill]

I just finished a plastic boat with Perfection, and found both screw-top hardener and non screw-top cans too.
The screw-tops at my local, very large West Marine, which regularly turns Perfection over, seemed to be confined to the whites and light colors (cream in my case.) All the darker colors were non-screw-tops. This pattern stayed consistent throughout the 15 months (!) it took to paint the boat.
As far as drying time goes, Interlux has excellent information at their website. They have a product sheet on Perfection that breaks out drying time for recoats, sanding, etc. by temperature.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Awlgrip and it's various reducers and thinners etc are a lot nastier to deal with than Perfection. Perfection is effectively Awlgrip for the experienced amateur. If you go and read all the Awlgrip WMMS sheets is something that should be respected from a respiratory standpoint. Imron is pretty nasty too.

[David G]

Awlgrip and it's various reducers and thinners etc are a lot nastier to deal with than Perfection. Perfection is effectively Awlgrip for the experienced amateur. If you go and read all the Awlgrip WMMS sheets is something that should be respected from a respiratory standpoint. Imron is pretty nasty too.

Most of the 2-part polyurethanes are pretty nasty from a breathing standpoint. You can add Sherwin-Williams' 'Polane' to the list that includes DuPont's 'Imron' and the rest. My impression (just based on the tech reps say-so) is that both the Epifanes and Interlux 2-parts are less toxic/dangerous than the others mentioned here. But, please, don't take my word for it - do your own research, and take every precaution. It's all nasty stuff from the standpoint of your lungs, liver, and/or brain.

[JimConlin]

A friendly reminder-
Unless specifically told otherwise, assume that spraying ANY of these paints requires supplied air ($$) respiration equipment. Here's the reason: The converters for the paints contain cyanide compounds which are quite toxic. If you brush or rool he paint, that's fine- only solvent flashes off. If you spray, a fraction of what's sprayed winds up as small droplets ('aerosol') in the air for all to breathe. This does bad things to you and your kin.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I am not aware of any cyanides in Awlgrip, Interlux, or Epifanes two part products. Do you have a link?

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Imron is far inferior to Awlgrip - not nearly as long lasting, hard, or scratch resistant - but you can buff out problems in Imron. Take a couple day old coat of awlgrip and youre sanding and reshooting it to fix any snafus.

I have had good luck with Imron based on it's flexibility for wooden boat hulls. Awlgrip does have better gloss retention, but both are good.

[JimConlin]

I am not aware of any cyanides in Awlgrip, Interlux, or Epifanes two part products. Do you have a link?

The isocyanate compounds are in the converters. Here's one I used this week.
http://datasheets.international-coat...USA_eng_A1.pdf

[wizbang 13]

that's the stuff that glues the lid down!!

[Ray Hurley]

Jim,

In your use of Awlgrip, do you spray or roll/tip (brush tip)?

[JimConlin]

Jim,

In your use of Awlgrip, do you spray or roll/tip (brush tip)?

I don't have any of the equipment to spray safely.
I roll & tip, mostly with 'hot dog' rollers and foam brushes.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Most oil based paints are not friendly when sprayed, simply because of the solvents involved. I have sprayed Imron, using a respirator, but it was outside, rather than inside. Either way, it's nasty stuff.


Isocyanates and Isocyanides are two different things. There is no cyanide in Isocyanates.


Here is a hazard sheet from California that outlines isocyanates.

Jobs and Industries Where Isocyanates Are Used:

Isocyanates are the raw materials from
which all polyurethane products are made. Jobs that may involve exposure to isocyanates include
painting, foam-blowing, and the manufacture of many products, such as chemicals, polyurethane
foam, insulation materials, surface coatings, car seats, furniture, foam mattresses, under-carpet
padding, packaging materials, shoes, laminated fabrics, polyurethane rubber, adhesives, and other Isocyanates
polyurethane products.

The major isocyanate compounds are:

TDI toluene diisocyanate
MDI methylene bis-phenylisocyanate
(diphenylmethane diisocyanate)
HDI hexamethylene diisocyanate
NDI naphthalene diisocyanate
HMDI methylene bis-cyclohexylisocyanate
(hydrogenated MDI)
IPDI isophorone diisocyanate

The most-used isocyanates are TDI and MDI. TDI is used mainly to make soft, flexible foams for
padding or insulation. MDI is used mainly to make hard, rigid foams for insulation in buildings,
vehicles, refrigeration equipment, and industrial equipment. Isocyanates are also widely used in
surface coatings such as paints, sealants, and finishes, and in the manufacture of rubbery plastics
such as those used to coat wires.
Some trade names that may refer to isocyanate products are:

Centari Desmodur Hylene
Imron Isonate Mondur
Nacconate Niax PAPI
Rubinate

Isocyanates chemically react to form a solid polyurethane foam or a plastic coating. The finished
product is almost non-toxic, unless it is burned or caused to generate a dust. Any polyurethane
material will give off isocyanates and other highly toxic substances if it is burned or welded.
The isocyanates in single-component coating products such as Varathane are pre-polymerized
(already chemically reacted), so that very little of the raw isocyanate remains; thus they are fairly
safe even during application. Two-component coating products contain unreacted isocyanates
and are usually much more hazardous to work with.
Odor and Appearance: Isocyanates are used in liquid form or dissolved in other liquids. They
have a sharp, fruity odor, but most people cannot smell the odor until the amount of the chemical
in the air is far above safe levels. Don't count on your sense of smell to warn you that you are
being overexposed.


Isocyanates
TDI and HDI are especially hazardous, because they can evaporate quickly to produce harmful
levels in the air. However, in jobs such as spray painting or foam blowing that can create mists
and dusts, other isocyanates can be just as hazardous as TDI and HDI.

[JimConlin]

My error about the cyanide. I misremembered.
Does this help? It's from the EPA. http://www.epa.gov/dfe/pubs/auto/pro...xicology1a.pdf
Google for isocyanate toxicity yields lots of other cites.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Most of the problems with paints of this type is the toxicity to the repsiratory tract. No question you would have some serious problems if you were a professional user without supplied air. Lots of solvent floating around.

[M. J. Notigan]

The premium 2 part paints that contain isocyanates like Awlgrip require a forced air respirator (price-about $350-Ebay and 500 to 600 from auto restoration supply vendors) if it is sprayed. A simple charcoal type ambient air respirator is inadequate. When I think of Isocyanates floating about in the air, I think of Super Glue and what that would do to your lungs if this stuff got down into them. Very potentially dangerous stuff that requires the right equipment and knowledge of product, for sure!

But there is no better long lasting paint!

Mike

[Bob Adams]

Anybody tried this?

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies...rlpu/index.htm

[dsharp]

You really should wear a tyvek suit and gloves in addition to a fresh air mask if spraying imron or awl grip. The overspray on your arms can make you pretty I'll if you get sensitized to the product. It's nothing like lacquer were you might get a little buzz.

[JimConlin]

Anybody tried this?

http://www.duckworksbbs.com/supplies...rlpu/index.htm

I recollect that there was a report in the last year or two about the System Three water-based PU paints and that they fell short.
Use the search thingy or Google.