Re: First thru-hull fittings
Ok. Here's the deal. You have a ball valve and a through hull on the seaward end, not a seacock..So do lots of boats. I'll try to explain the subtle difference.
Through hull threads are straight; ball valve threads are tapered. So while they appear to fit together, the threads arent locking together correctly. A flanged seacock has straight threads that match those of through hulls.
Additionally, a flanged seacock is held to the boat by screws through the flange. The arrangement you have, there is nothing to stop the through-hull from turning when you throw the handle.
Your setup will work, and does work for many.
But were I you, I would go the flanged seacock route. After all its a one time job, so why not cross all the Tees and dot all the ayes.?
Here is what a "proper" flanged seacock looks like:
ETA: Other advantages of a proper seacock are:
1. Has drain plugs
2. Has grease fitting
3. Square hole in handle allows you to use a socket wrench ( without a socket installed) to extend your reach to operate the lever
4. If it ever gets stepped on, its stronger
There are two kinds of boaters: those who have run aground, and those who lie about it.