First build from DN Goodchild plan

[Outlaw]

so what is going on with this build? was wondering can this boat be built in plywood only? nice looking.

Outlaw

[beernd]

so what is going on with this build? was wondering can this boat be built in plywood only? nice looking.

Outlaw

Hello Outlaw,

I have had some issues, but early next week I start building again.

The design was originally for carvel white cedar planking.

Plywood?

I guess the bottom could be done in plywood, since IMHO it is a devellopable surface, the sides however would prove (again IMHO) difficult with the flair. So I'm going to crossplank the sides, and since I can have very atractive deal on the wood (larch), I will crosplank the bottom also.

Since I am much more a buider than a sailor/boater I am toying with the idea of building a simplified version where I'll just draw a straight line between the chine line and the sheerline.

Stay tuned, and witness the troubles of a first time boat builder

[skaraborgcraft]

Are you going to leave those bottom frames alone below the chine? I know you mentioned making things straight before. Well,its your boat.....but no matter what way you put the wood on,it still has to bend,straight frames or not. How wide and thick is your planking going to be? Have you tried to fit a plank to see how it goes? Cheers

[beernd]

I don't understand what you are talking about, but the keel, chines and sheer clamp are going to be done as per given scantlings (dunno if I spelled that right).


The only differences are that the frame will be build using fasteners and epoxy, the other difference is that the hull is not going to be carvel planked with white cedar but crossplanked with larch using epoxy to glue the two layers together.
Cheers

[beernd]

Real wood at last

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Buiding the stem + keel
The wood is very roughly sawn, which makes it difficult to do a nice fit (+ the fact that my carpentry skills are not excactly stellar doesn't help).




The parts of the keel and the stem are through bolted with 12 mm galvanized thread.
They will ultimately be bonded with thickened epoxy as well.
The rabbets are going to be glued on so the 50 mm keel will be 50+(2x12.5) = 75 mm 3'' as per scantlings.




I dropped the idea of cross planking because, in dry fitting some planks I'm going to have issues with the flair at the bow.
Instead I will plank the boat the same fashion, Lucky Luke has used on his mouthwateringly beautiful yacht. So it going to be 2 layers for and aft of 9 mm Larch overlapping and bonded with thickened epoxy giving me 18 mm total
This should be enough because the original scantlings call for 3/4 white cedar built carvel.

That's it for now.
More pictures tomorrow.

[beernd]

Ok so I forgot to post yesterday, well here's more,

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The mr Boat epoxy passed the stress test with flying colors.
Belt and suspenders type of guy I am I still use srcews as well.

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Keel details.
I'm gluing on some 15mm wood on each side inlieu of the keel rabbet

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I got the whole keel assembly glued up and bolted slightly, I tighten things up monday morning.
And that will be the day I start ripping wood for the chines and the ribs.

Have a nice weekend
And I hope your summer is better than ours

[skaraborgcraft]

nice to see progress. Its still raining in Sweden....

[beernd]

nice to see progress. Its still raining in Sweden....

Same same thing here

Well on the bright side of the thing I can be glad to be building a boat during summer, and the beautiful days on the water, I did not miss because there have not been any beautiful days as of now, and the heat not killing me while I am working

[beernd]

All right I've had it with that dastardly flair in the bow section.
I spent days to figure out how to plank the boat, crossplanking being out of the question because I would have to torture the planks to death and then spend half a life time fairing the hull.
First I thought I was just going to double plank her 2 layers for and aft.
I started dry fitting ribs (dead strait ribs) from the sheerline to the chine line, now the battens I run along them are smiling to me.
The hullplanks can easily be crossplanked without torturing them and I can use shorter lengths of wood so i can cut around the knots in the wood.
The looks of the boat improved dramaticly I only have to laminate ribs from station 16 to the transom, because I want to keep the tumble home.

Things are going to speed up from now on.
I cut up 5 lenghts of 5m today for the frames and for the chine logs.
There is a 1000lbs weight that dropped of my shoulders today

[Outlaw]

lets see the new look

Outlaw

[beernd]

lets see the new look

Outlaw

Thurstday night I'l post pictures, by then the build will have progressed enough to see some differences.

And BTW I'm going to change the cockpit to, there will be a wheel house, like the one on the "Olga" by mark Smaalders.

I'll be there thurstday

Cheers

[beernd]

As promised some pictures of the new look.
Initial warning alert from the coin of the shed I'm working in it's difficult to get an overview.

Whatever, some pictures.
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All this and I'm not going to build this awkward cockpit awning the boat is going to get a wheelhouse, that will be big enough to install a small kitchen (galley?).

I am really enjoying this whole expierience.

I'll keep you posted!

Cheers

Gerrit Jan

[beernd]

Some more pictures, the bottomframwork is ready now.
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Tomorrow I will start work on the side frames

[beernd]

Here is today's update, making good progress on the framework.

Maybe monday some 7 kgs of epoxy get delivered, in that case I'll be busy glueing and screwing all the parts that I have dry fitted.

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[skaraborgcraft]

Nice to see progress. It may be the picture, but the half frame 2 (back from stem) looks too high, and frame 3 looks too low.
The "rabbat plank" looks to be drooping down to No3 frame and then your No 2 is much higher. If you have yet to trim No2 to the correct line then ignore this.

[beernd]

Indeed this needs some trimming and ajusting.

Cheers

[beernd]

Hello everybody,
The framework still going strong.
Everything is going a little smoother now, I think I have worked out all the kinks.
Anyway, here are some more pics.

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Starting to build the transom frame.
It's a bit rough but I make do with what I got ( and enjoy the challenge)


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I have one more picture I have to paste that into the next post . . .

[beernd]

That's all for today.

I think I have 5 more workdays on the framework, and after that it is planking time.

Cheers

[skaraborgcraft]

Good to see some progress. Will be interesting to see how those straight sections look when you get planking. Cheers

[beernd]

Me too,
I ripped some 6mm strips today and I think it is going to be nice.
There is some more time to laminate the frame between station # 18 and the transom.
And then planking will start.

[beernd]

Wow the framework is ready and the (cross)planking can begin.
Some pictures.

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Next three pics in next post

[beernd]

Three more pics

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[beernd]

Hello everybody,

I'll post some pictures of the planking, things are going to be rather slow, as from now I need a lot of epoxy and wood, and my finances are not all that fantastic. So slowly but surely things will keep going forward.

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That's all for now.

BTW the bow is going to have some nice flare even with the straight frames, I think it will turn out looking good.

[Hugh Conway]

Perhaps too late but aren't most of the Goodchild plans reformats of plans/how to build articles that appeared in the Rudder? Not sure of your particular craft but I found reprinting the original Rudder article added some detail missing from the Goodchild.

[beernd]

Yes I am afraid that this is rather to late.
Anyway I have taken some liberties with the design.

[sailcanoefan]

Beernd, this is good work. I'm building a 19 ft sailboat from DN Goodchild. Beside small plates or drawings, I'm lucky to realize that there are no errors in the plans. Me too I'm on the first boat ever, beside one wooden sailboat model. Keep on working, you'll be happy the lauching day. To me I want to sail mine July 2013.

Regards

[skaraborgcraft]

Couldnt those bottom strips have been at least 3 times as wide? Or, or you cutting your planks "on edge" to get the vertical grain you mentioned? That is a lot of seams to bog! Good to see progress anyway.

[beernd]

There will be at least 3 layers of criss cross planking maybe 4 on the bottom, so the gaps in the first layer will get faired once the boat is right side up.
Besides Mark Bowdidge gave me the idea of spacing apart the strips with tile spacers, and mentioned that strips should not be any wider than 30mm to avoid flat sides(mine are 35 mm) I will space my strips with 30mm nails because those are the nails I use to "clamp down" the strips with.

Got everything under control,

Cheers

[beernd]

Beernd, this is good work. I'm building a 19 ft sailboat from DN Goodchild. Beside small plates or drawings, I'm lucky to realize that there are no errors in the plans. Me too I'm on the first boat ever, beside one wooden sailboat model. Keep on working, you'll be happy the lauching day. To me I want to sail mine July 2013.

Regards

Well originally I was hoping to splash her some time spring 2013, but than again I learned that the words "planning" and "wooden boat building" should not be in the same sentence

Right now I would be very happy to launch her before the fall of 2013.

I think nice and easy does it for first timers like us.

[skaraborgcraft]

Thats interesting, did Mark show you a boat he had built using 30mm strips?

EDIT: Just seen the thread with Marks build. Interesting,but that boat has a singlr layer and will sheathed inside and out. I would not want to be the person inside the hull having epoxy dripping all over me clearing up the excess. Is tapeing off inside an option? Keep a record of how much epoxy you use,i think this system will use a lot!

[beernd]

Yes,


http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...in-Strip-Plank

Cheers

[sailcanoefan]

I think nice and easy does it for first timers like us.

Right!!!!!!

[beernd]

One of the things that made me think of the double cross planking way, was a video with Sam Devlin glassing a very small rowing boat.
He just poured down the epoxy by the bucket
This makes me think that my double cross planking does not need all that much epoxy.

I am keeping count of the epoxy I have used, up until now it was 11 kgs.

BTW: the whole double cross planking, method and denomination is part of the public domain.
Don't nobody go around saying it was his/her idea.

Tomorrow I'll be back at the job.

Got sponsored for 15 kg of epoxy and a couple hundres metres of wood.

[beernd]

Hello,
I ordered an extra 7.5 kg of epoxy and I will get tha wood tomorrow after that things should go quickly.

Cheers

[skaraborgcraft]

I checked out the Bowdidge style,and it seems appropriate to a build thats being sheathed inside and out. But it does seem to me that epoxy is used as a filler/glue instead of good joints. As much as i appriciate the wonders of epoxy, i was taught old school bench joinery,so it does not come natrual to leave great gaps everywhere;you spend years improving your joinery skills then all of a suddenyou NEED to make slack joints.......

I will be very interested in the final epoxy weight.

[sailcanoefan]

Hello,
I ordered an extra 7.5 kg of epoxy and I will get tha wood tomorrow after that things should go quickly.

Wow!!!! I've already spent 2 gallons epoxy only by glueing pieces, and also filling gaps by thickening resin.
I tought I've been using much epoxy so far.

Fiberglassing complete hull is my next step; 2 or maybe 3 gallons will be needed for the job + 6 oz cloth.

All builders should consider building a boat is not free. Some materials are expensive. Labor however is most of time ''free'' or at least cost some beer packs for friends. Final result is the target: ''Being proud of having building that Dream Boat''.

Good job, my friend.

[beernd]

Wow!!!! I've already spent 2 gallons epoxy only by glueing pieces, and also filling gaps by thickening resin.
I tought I've been using much epoxy so far.

Fiberglassing complete hull is my next step; 2 or maybe 3 gallons will be needed for the job + 6 oz cloth.

All builders should consider building a boat is not free. Some materials are expensive. Labor however is most of time ''free'' or at least cost some beer packs for friends. Final result is the target: ''Being proud of having building that Dream Boat''.

Good job, my friend.

Boat building certainly is not free, but boy it's one heck of a ride, I have enjoyed every minute of it.

I am laying on the second layer of the criss cross planking on the bottom and I lost count of the amount of epoxy I have used.
I guess I am starting to understand now that there is no such thing as a free lunch.

How much money did you spend so far?
Maybe this question sounds a bit rude, but it's just that I try to keep the "Cost of building thread" alive.
I think this thread with a lot of information could help future builders help making their decision, about how much money is needed for their build.

Monday I continue the planking.

Cheers.

[sailcanoefan]

1 thousand $ at least so far. I also purchased a surface planer, a small jointer and a used 10 inch band saw....but I don't add these in the amount of money for the boat itself.

I took around 220 pictures.

Me too I enjoy every minutes. Later I will certainely appreciate sailing my boat.

cya

[beernd]

Hello fellow boatbuilders,

planking is in full swing, I finished the second layer on the portside of the bottom, thickness is now 12 mm (1/2 inch).
One more layer to go on this side and then two more on the other side, to get to the thickness of 18 mm.

Picture:

Sorry, no picture today. The girls and boys at Photobucket have "improved" their site and now compared to it, a snail is moving fast.
http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/...psa10d3f29.jpg

A link is all I can do for the moment.

And I have a confession to make, double cross planking sucks an awfull lot of epoxy.
This certainly is mostly caused by me building the first layer to flimsy and not placing enough stringers.
Now I face an epoxy shortage, and may have to stall the build for a week or so.

I will try to prop the starboard side of the bottom up a bit so it won't gobble up as much as it did on the port side.

On the bright side the portside with it's two layers is now sturdy enough to be sanded and that's what I am going to do, before I put on
layer # 3.

Slowly, surely but mostly slowly we are getting there.

Cheers