Home made router tables??? Any pics

[Larks]

Anyone here built their own router table? Any chance of a few photos of what you've done and how you've done it?

It's a pretty easy one to make up a design for one myself and there are a few on the web, but I'd be very interested to see what others may have come up with.

[johnno]

I'm very interested too, because I have a similar project in mind.

[PeterSibley]

I'll take a photo tomorrow Greg but the main thing is a flat top! .... mine has been a source of worry and constant adjustment so I've decided to use the iron table from my now defunct Chinese 12" table saw as a router table and fit it onto the existing cabinet. I'm sure there are simpler solutions, probably 19mm ply with a couple of aluminium ribs underneath to ensure flatness. A laminate surface is good too.

How are you planning to hang your router? From a lift or from a table insert? My current one hangs from a 12mm acrylic insert so I can drop it in from above but the new iron version will require an under table lift...which is a pity as I prefer the "drop in from above version".

The cabinet is fully enclosed and made from 17mm ply with a computer fan to provide cooling air for the router and an external switch for turning the router on and off.

[potomac]

Would stone be a possibility? I'm not sure if vibration would be a problem. It would be very heavy and wouldn't wear very well, but if you had a dedicated, permanent station and used reasonably smooth stock I would think it would be okay. I got a dead flat, incredibly smooth piece of granite for blade sharpening. Pieces like that can be had for a song from real granite purveyors when they have left-overs from a job.

[Nicholas Scheuer]

I used to have a Craftsman 8" table saw with a 1/4" steel extension on one side (other side hasd a standard cast grid extension), all mounted on a stout stand. I had the Tool Room at my employer cut a 1" hole in the center of the steel extension, then drilled a perimeter of countersunk holes for securing the 1-hp Router under the extension. It worked very well having the saw fence available for the Router, too.

My present 2-hp 10" saw has Mahogany extensions on both sides. I let a square piece of 1/4" steel flush into one extension, with the same hole pattern in the steel for securing my Router. It works as well as the earlier Router Table, and I've got a project going with it right now.

[TerryLL]

Here's a few pics of one of my router tables:










The table top is 32" wide, 24" deep, and 17.5" tall. The table sits on a bench that is 29.5" tall, bringing the table top to 47" off the floor, which is elbow-height for me. I spend several hours at a time at this table, and I've found over the years that this height allows long hours without muscle spasms in the back and neck. The base of the table is open, but has a flange that allows the table to be clamped to the bench.

The top has a 3" overhang on all sides, which allows a fence to be clamped anywhere on the table. The fence is a simple tray that does double duty as a caddy for clamps and blocks. The top is made of two layers of 3/4" birch ply covered in P-lam. I didn't take any kind of special care in getting the top absolutely flat. However, it turned out within 0.025" (0.64mm) of dead flat front to back, and within 0.005" (0.13mm) of dead flat side to side, which is plenty close enough for my use.

The router is a PC 690 and is mounted to a Rockler plate let in flush with the table surface. The top has a cutout to allow the router to mount directly to the plate. The router is plugged into an external switch box on the side of the table.

There's more pics of various tables, including my pattern router table, here:

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...ixed-or-Plunge

[Larks]

Thanks Terry.

Peter, I'll use a drop in insert similar to what Terry has used, either Carbatec or Kreg
http://www.carbatec.com.au/router-table-kits_c2700

[PeterSibley]

Yes.. mine is similar but I used 12mm acrylic with a wide variety of tool openings, all interchangeable. My router is a 1/2" Makita and quite large so the opening to drop it through needs to be large too.

My table is 28"x 28" with a lip all around, the lip should be wider, Terry's 3" is about right.

[Rob Stokes, N. Vancouver]

I've built mine into the table saw outfeed table. I've used the right extension wing before as well - on other saws (the current shop would not allow this with the current saw). Nice way to save space and take advantage of the mass of the TS to help keep everything steady.

BTW - I use old commercial "cubicle" table tops for shop made inset tables (between the fence rails) and for my outfeed. the stuff's thick (>1") particle board - dimensionally solid, lots of mass and takes a laminate surface really well.. Best of all - it's cheap (usually free)...

[PeterSibley]

Here's my cabinet Greg.As i said the table recently bowed 1 mm , sufficient to make it useless.That aside it's a good design for my use .



The rectangles of acrylic are interchangeable bases that screw to the standard plunge base , I have 4 or 5 of them.



Showing the computer fan for cooling, there is an equal sized hole down low on the other side. The plywood case really reduces the noise level.... I really hate the sound of routers !!

[Phil Y]

I put my router in a bench vice. Turned it on. Now its rooted.

[k4lmy]

[IMG]

Here is one I built back a few years ago.. Built from American Woodworker mag. Original table came from the March 2003 page 39 issue and the lift portion was published in March 2004. I think the plans are still available from American Woodworker online.. It has worked fine on all projects that I have done.. Top is 2 layers of 3/4 MDF covered with Formica to keep moisture out.. the blue track are for various hold downs and the front fence is made to be replaced when necessary. The lift mechanism is operated with a speed crank and a 3/4 socket.. One turn is 1/64 of an inch up or down.
Henry

[PeterSibley]

My table was / is 2 layers of 3/4" MDF too.Topped and bottomed with Laminex, it's unfortunately sagged in the middle .

[johnno]

Because there's no real linear structure to mdf, it will always sag once the span is up a bit. I'd use ply over mdf everytime. In fact, I never go near mdf, and never use it architecturally.

[PeterSibley]

It's horrible stuff but I had a big double lamination that was the right size . My mistake ! Actually I thought having the top and bottom covered with Laminex would stiffen it up , it may have but not enough. Ply is far better.

[RFNK]

Old school desks are good for this. They have a laminex surface on quite thick ply. They're very flat. Kitchen places often have kitchen bench off cuts - laminex on chipboard about 40-50mm thick. To me this is the easy part. The real trick is coming up with a lifting arrangement or another very accessible way of changing the cutter height.

Rick

[PeterSibley]

Rick, I'm thinking of a version of this lift. http://woodgears.ca/router_lift/version1.html

[TerryLL]

...The real trick is coming up with a lifting arrangement or another very accessible way of changing the cutter height.

Rick

This system works pretty well.

[k4lmy]

Could not get a picture of my lift but here is a picture from the original article that describes the build.. By the way the table top while heavy is supported by a supporting structure on all four sides of the lift mechanism.

[k4lmy]

Here is a link to the article on the router table..

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/...ter-table.aspx

Not saying this is the end all answer but has not shown any problems for me.. I guess that one could substitute good plywood for the MDF.

[wizbang 13]

I never use a router. I bought this table with this setup. seems pretty simple.

[PeterSibley]

Much like mine Bruce .

[scottmacc]

I have the plans for Norm Abram's Router table. First project after I finish the bow shed....

[TerryLL]

Here's a few suggestions about that "improved" router table featured in the video:

The best way to save the bearings in your router is to keep the router as cool as possible, and the best way to do that is to enclose the router and use a beefy dust collection system to suck air through the box. Also, keeping the chuck bearing cool will keep the router bit cool, which will maintain the cutting edge longer.

The dust collector will suck almost all the chips and dust down the hole, keeping the table top free of chips.

An enclosed box, with sound insulation will do wonders to quiet that beast.

The table in the video is a decent design, but the router needs to be enclosed and ventilated with a dust collector.

[Larks]

Terry, Peter, Henry or anyone else, a question on the door access to the router if any of you look in here:

I'm going to include some cupboards at each side of the dust collection/router space box, accessed from the ends of the table (rather than the front of the table), but in hindsight do you think the doors that you have on the front of your tables are useful or would you perhaps hinge the top of the table so that it tilts up to access the router and dust box?

I have the shop bought acrylic base for the router that sits flush with the table top and his held down by 4 x rare earth magnets, so it is easy enough to lift the whole thing out to change bits, but for height adjustments or any other access reason, do you think the door or a hinged top (that can be locked up reasonably solidly) would be easier to use?

[PeterSibley]

Greg, I use my front door to do minor height adjustments .That could be done just as well or maybe better by lifting the top. The trouble with that is that there is a possibility of disturbing any setup you have set on the top, I think the door has it's uses.BTW my top lifts off too. I'd have both .

My router(a 1/2" Makita) is attached to a 12mm acrylic base that allows me to lift the thing out though the top opening..... much like yours? The rare earth magnets sound like a nice touch.

[Larks]

Greg, I use my front door to do minor height adjustments .That could be done just as well or maybe better by lifting the top. The trouble with that is that there is a possibility of disturbing any setup you have set on the top, I think the door has it's uses.BTW my top lifts off too. I'd have both .

My router(a 1/2" Makita) is attached to a 12mm acrylic base that allows me to lift the thing out though the top opening..... much like yours? The rare earth magnets sound like a nice touch.

Yes, much the same Peter. The magnets also act as a base for grub screws on each corner to allow for minor height adjustments of the acrylic base if needed, though with mine I've managed to get the recess depth just right so no height adjustment needed.

I reckon I'll include both the door and the hinged top then. That's tomorrows project.

[k4lmy]

My table design allows both the top to swing up to allow bit replacement with no change in top set up as well as access from the front doors for accessory storage from the front.. I do open the front when setting up to allow 110 ac connection for the vacuum connection.. A side mounted switch starts both the router as well as the vacuum. The top plate provides for router guide and / or cover plate change if neccesary.

Henry

[PeterSibley]

Mine has the same external switch as Henry's , convenient and also a good safety feature.

[TerryLL]

... do you think the doors that you have on the front of your tables are useful or would you perhaps hinge the top of the table so that it tilts up to access the router and dust box?...

Larks,

The door on mine is held with a couple inexpensive magnetic cabinet catches. When the dust collector is on, the door is very firmly held shut by the vacuum, but is easy to remove with the dust collector off. When changing bits I loosen the router base clamp and drop the motor out of the base and set it on top of the table. Changing bits and collets and cleaning the chuck is simple with the motor out of the box. The router base and the plate that the base is screwed to are permanently mounted in the table top.

Terry

[Larks]

Thanks Henry, Peter, Terry. Much appreciated.

[SMARTINSEN]

There was a router table shown in the video about making a mold for a propeller. It was the same height as the top of the tablesaw, thus able to do double duty as an outfeed table.

[k4lmy]

All my work benches , table saw, chop saw and router table are built to 36 inch height so that I can use them all as supports. Great minds are on the same path.. Have a good day..

Henry

[Larks]

There was a router table shown in the video about making a mold for a propeller. It was the same height as the top of the tablesaw, thus able to do double duty as an outfeed table.

That's actually what I've set up with mine, I've also made it the right width to slot into the side of the tablesaw between the measuring rails to be able to widen it as well.

[Larks]

On a slightly different but related topic, have any of you guys come accross 1/4" ot 3/8" rail and style router bit sets? My good Makita plunge router is 3/" but I've only been able to find 1/2" rail and style bits, either through my normal sources here or on line.

[TerryLL]

Amana and MLCS show 1/4 shank sets on a number of sites.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ter_bits1.html

[Larks]

Amana and MLCS show 1/4 shank sets on a number of sites.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ter_bits1.html

Thanks for that Terry, I'll see if anyone retails them here in Oz.

[PeterSibley]

Try this mob in Brisbane Greg. I pretty sure I've bought bits from them, they used to sharpen my bandsaw blades.
http://www.brisbanesaw.com.au/tooling.htm

[Larks]

Try this mob in Brisbane Greg. I pretty sure I've bought bits from them, they used to sharpen my bandsaw blades.
http://www.brisbanesaw.com.au/tooling.htm

Thanks Peter

[Larks]

For anyone interested, here's what I've come up with.
The top is 850mm x 650mm:




I set a second dust exctractor into the fence:



Back view, the hole is for an extension lead to feed into the power supply:



I built in some cupboards either side:



The left side cupboard holds a jumble of leads at the moment. The router lead feeds in from the dust box and the only switch that I could find at the moment was a foot switch that I've mounted to the face. I couldn't shorten the lead so it's all just piled in here for now until I find a more suitable switch.

The routers original plate is screwed to the door for safe storage:



Access to the dust box if needed without lifting the hinged lid:

[RFNK]

It's a beaut! Great Greg!

Rick

[Larks]

The right side cupboard is storage for the few router bits that I have. I'm going to upgrade to a 1/2" router as I simply can't source any rail and stile bits to fit my Makita 1/4" one. I left a small shelf on the front for pencils and so on.



The lid is an old piece of ply with a piece of MDF for the smooth top:



a couple of lockable wheels give a sturdy enough base



The paneling is all the offcuts of the same veneer over some ply and some MDF that was mixed in with a pallet load of marine ply that a mate very kindly gave me:

[RFNK]

How do you adjust the height? Just use the router"s own adjuster?

Rick

[PeterSibley]

Excellent Greg... nice ply ! That hinged lid is a good idea too.

[PeterSibley]

An MDF table? Keep an eye on that , mine slowly bowed down a mm and it needs replacing .I'd suggest a couple of stiffening ribs.

[Larks]

How do you adjust the height? Just use the router"s own adjuster?

Rick

Yes, just with the router adjustment Rick.

An MDF table? Keep an eye on that , mine slowly bowed down a mm and it needs replacing .I'd suggest a couple of stiffening ribs.

Not completely, the MDF top is over an old piece of 18mm ply. I did say that the paneling is MDF as well, but it's actually a mix of the same veneer over some ply and some MDF. I've used the ply where I wanted to be sure of the rigidity

[PeterSibley]

Much better than mine then! Mine was 2 layers of 19mm mdf with laminex top and bottom .I thought that would make a stiff panel but I was very wrong. I used it because i had it, not a good reason. I now have an ex saw bench table top ...cast iron and am trying to work out how to use it , it probably excessive but at least it will stay flat ! (or should the lesson be learned about using what I have ?)