Steering Wheel Repair

[Stinky1]

I have a '49 Chris Craft U-22. The steering wheel has cracks and sections missing, but otherwise
handles nicely. Anybody recommend a restorer or have an idea about how to fix?

tks
Stinkin

[David G]

Stinkin' - most of us don't know from memory what sort of steering wheel that would be. Do you have fotos you can show us... and/or a far more detailed description of the situation?

[Stinky1]

Why is it so hard to post a picture on this site? Can you tell me how to do it?

tks
stinky

[Stinky1]

I went to photobucket at your advice. I simply despise Facebook for it's invasive attitude. Will look for one that doesnt req facebook. Thanks your help

[David G]

Stinky - lots of folks use flickr.

What do fotobucket and facebook have to do with each other?

[Stinky1]

you have to have a facebook address to get on photobucket

[David G]

you have to have a facebook address to get on photobucket

That sounds unlikely... but you could be right. Try flickr - I've used it happily for years.

[pcford]

Or you could use the web space that you are most likely already paying for. A little more complicated but you will not put yourself at the mercy of fly-by-night image hosting services.

To answer your question...I have not done a major wheel restoration myself, but have talked with people that have...from my dusty memory files I recall that one fills the cracks with epoxy, sand and then apply a LPU paint like Imron or the like.

Or you could buy another. There are people that sell runabout hardware. Chuck Grewe at Yankee Girl Boatworks would be one. (Solid citizen) I think that a U-22 would have a fairly modest wheel one in good shape may not be very expensive. http://www.chriscraftone.com/ There are professional wheel restorers, but the cost is substantial...a few hundred bucks if I recall correctly.

Good luck. pcf

[Stinky1]

I think Im leaning toward your solution with the epoxy. Im not really looking to spend a fortune on repair (they want $1000) or to buy a new one when the one i have works great and can be touched up. I ve got to figure what epoxy to use and how to get it to stay in place while it hardens. Thanks much you suggestion.

[Gib Etheridge]

Upload your photos to Flickr.

On Flickr;
Left click on the photo.
Right click on the photo and select medium 500 or medium 640.
Right click on the medium photo and select copy.
Right click on the post and select paste.

[Bob S]

This may help. http://www.thebugshop.org/bsfqstrg.htm It's how I repaired mine.

[pcford]

Google is, in fact, your friend.

http://www.por15.com/STEERING-WHEEL-...ductinfo/SWRK/

[Phil Westendorf]

I think Im leaning toward your solution with the epoxy. Im not really looking to spend a fortune on repair (they want $1000) or to buy a new one when the one i have works great and can be touched up. I ve got to figure what epoxy to use and how to get it to stay in place while it hardens. Thanks much you suggestion.

Assuming it's wood on metal, here's a solution. I have restored a 1907 Buick Steering Wheel a few years ago. It was approx. 14 inch diameter 1/4" thick brass plate and had six pieces/segments of Black Walnut on each side. They were segmented and arched around the perimeter and had a butt joint between each piece. The wood was slightly separated from the brass in several places and there was a section of punkey wood where the wheel sat on the ground and absorbed moisture.
I mixed West System's 105-207 Epoxy with black walnut sanding powder (used 100 grit to make the powder with a random orbit sander) to add filler in the punkey wood section to build it up. Used heat gun to get the epoxy to flow/absorb in the wood.
I then used several plastic tie wraps around the wood to hold them to the brass wheel while the epoxy cured. I sanded the whole wheel's wood with 120 grit paper lightly and applied two finish coats of the 105-207 Clear Epoxy and then several coats of Epifanes High Gloss Varnish.
It turned out you can see the repaired area with the wood filler but have to look close. It turned out pretty good. It was done for the Saginaw (Michigan) Historical Society Museum's Permanent Automotive Display.
To do it real proper the wood would need to be replaced, but you lose the authenticity.

Hope this helps. Good Luck!

phil w.