Worm drive saw recommendations?

[Ethan]

Ok, yeah, ha ha ha

But seriously, any brand/model recommendations for a worm drive circular saw? I'd prefer to buy a quality tool once instead of a crappy one multiple times.

Thanks!

[Ian McColgin]

Assuming you've seen stuff like: http://www.popularmechanics.com/home...4205480?page=2

[StevenBauer]

I don't know if here are any cheap worm drive saws. By definition they are pro tools. I don't think you could go wrong with a Bosch, Makita or Porter-Cable.

I heard through the grapevine about the Vertue. Will G&B design a new boat for you?

Steven

[goodbasil]

I've have 3 Skil's. 2 x 7.25" & 1 8.25" all US made & all good.
Skil's are all China now.

Probably Ridgid is best now, lifetime guarantee as I understand check it out at HD.

(That is if you can stand orange tools.)

[RodB]

The Makita Hypoid saw is the smallest and lightest of the models available... and is a quality tool with plenty of power. I have owned and used this saw for many years... and love the easy control when cutting out panels in boatbuilding. You can cut very close to a line with one hand... the gyro effect of worm drive saws makes them extremely easy to control in such situations.

I also owned a Skill M77 but decided it was too heavy and only used in infrequently. The magnesium model of the Makita is lighter and has a soft start... The Dewalt framers saw is about the same size as the Makita and would be my 2nd choice ... the Skill, and Bosch and Rigid are larger and heavier.

Its easy to find wormdrive saws used on ebay and in pawn shops.... just be sure the saw has not been dropped and that the base is not bent.

Good luck,

RodB

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-5477NB-.../dp/B002FBLVAU

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...TTTXYNWCYPJHE2

[Ethan]

Are the Skils any good?

Steven, yeah, I need to catch that thread up, it's been a busy few months and a lot has happened with the boat. An interesting twist may be in the works though....

[Ethan]

Lol..you guys are fast! I see my question was answered while I was typing it....

[potomac]

I use a Dewalt. Not any cheaper than the Makita above, so if you are brand faithful, then.... It's heavy, feels quite steady. I've ripped a fair bit of 3/4 hardwood ply with it without a burn mark using a good quality finish blade. It's quite awkward to lay down- about the only bad thing I can say, but that may be true of all these saws.
http://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DWS535-...5286185&sr=1-1

[wizbang 13]

Pawn Shops

[Rob Stokes, N. Vancouver]

Used Skil 77 - absolutely can not go wrong with that saw...

[Andy Mcconkey]

I've owned SKil's, both the Mag and the heavy old black handled beast. I've used Makitas' and Ridgids and I've also owned a Dewalt. By far the Dewalt is the nicest to use. Best balance. Lightest. But it's also the least durable. If it's future is inside in a shop it will hold up fine.

[James McMullen]

I have to admit that the only worm drives I have ever used are Skil Mag 77. They work fine.

But honestly, I almost never actually use a skilsaw for boatbuilding tasks. It is far too crude and imprecise for anything but roughing-out. There's many another tool I would spend the money on first unless I had a specific task for it, or was building a house.

But nevertheless :

[Canoeyawl]

I have a couple of the Skill models, but like James, have never really used them for boat work except to rough cut a piece to length or make up a cradle or something, I use a chainsaw just about as often.
A little 4-1/2" model though, is pretty handy.

[Desert Sailor]

+1 for Makita.

It's not small, it's not light, it's not cheap, and it's so torquey that you'll get your wrist bent quite nicely when you pull the trigger if you're not prepared for it. But -- I haven't abused it, but I most certainly haven't babied it. 15 years, at least, and still going strong.

Cry once.

[Nicholas Carey]

I have a couple of the Skill models, but like James, have never really used them for boat work except to rough cut a piece to length or make up a cradle or something, I use a chainsaw just about as often.
A little 4-1/2" model though, is pretty handy.

That Porter-Cable 314 is, IMHO, outside of the Festool plunge saw, the best thing going for breaking down sheet goods...but at $300+ it is a pretty pricey.

[kbowen]

A little 4-1/2" model though, is pretty handy.

I have been looking for a nice small circular saw, but had a really bad experience with another Porter-Cable tool; Brand new router replaced / repaired three times before I got a good one. Some newsgroup posts agreed that their quality has fallen behind their price point as they have sent their manufacturing all over the world. Re: torque, I disagree with an earlier post about the gyroscopic action of a worm drive: I have an old monster B&D which jumps in a rotational way when you turn it on, it is not at all a one-handed affair.

[RFNK]

Please ignore this if it's too much of a drift ... but, what is the advantage of a worm drive saw? You can't even buy them in Australia as far as I know so I've never even seen one.

Rick

[Paul Girouard]

Please ignore this if it's too much of a drift ... but, what is the advantage of a worm drive saw? You can't even buy them in Australia as far as I know so I've never even seen one.

Rick

Power , durability, and a some what more ergonomic saw to use while stooped over , using crook of your foot to brace the stock against. Purely a framers saw.

Skil model 77 , magnesium is worth the extra dollars if you use the saw every day. I don't think a worm drive is a good novice / home owner type saw , the heft and power would scare a user who was not used to using power tools.

Great saw for house framing. Not the saw I'd pick up to work on siding or "rough" interior finishing like cutting sub-flooring , counter tops , shelving , and the like.

[wizbang 13]

Please ignore this if it's too much of a drift ... but, what is the advantage of a worm drive saw? You can't even buy them in Australia as far as I know so I've never even seen one.

Rick

A right handed person can see the blade without leaning over the saw. (I think) the blade turns slower, so there is more torque( that 's why they "twist" a little when they start) with less kick back.
Not for boat work??? Not for yacht joinery , but I ripped (re sawed) all the planking for a 32'er and a 41' strip planked boat. For my type of building (ahem, a bit rough) I use them regularly. Like disc sanders, I have several, so I am not constantly swapping blades.
I used to carry one on my cruiser, but swapped it out( for a 4" paneling saw )only because it was too big , watt wise, to run from my generator.
Two tools that are common as dirt in a pawn shop are sawzall and wormsaw.

[RFNK]

Thanks guys! I wonder why they're not available in Australia? I really like the idea of being able to see the cut more clearly - it's a nuisance having to go through contortions to see what I'm cutting with the 'regular' circular saw!

Rick

[chas]

"Power , durability, and a some what more ergonomic saw to use while stooped over , using crook of your foot to brace the stock against. Purely a framers saw. "

Yep, cutting stuff on the ground that's too heavy to put on the bench. Great saw for cutting rafter tails in place while balancing on top plates, where the weight is handy for providing drive. If you don't do this work, you don't need one. / Jim

[Nicholas Carey]

Please ignore this if it's too much of a drift ... but, what is the advantage of a worm drive saw? You can't even buy them in Australia as far as I know so I've never even seen one.

Rick

Here on the West coast, you won't get laughed off the job site with one, like you would with a sidewinder. Just the opposite, so I'm told, from the East coast. There are strong regional preferences for sidewinder vs. worm-drive.

As far as handedness goes, P-C and others make sidewinders in both blade-left and blade-right versions.

[seedy]

Thanks guys! I wonder why they're not available in Australia? I really like the idea of being able to see the cut more clearly - it's a nuisance having to go through contortions to see what I'm cutting with the 'regular' circular saw!

Rick

My old Makita 18v saw has the blade on the left, and Porter Cable made a sidewinder with a choice of sides for the blade.

Modern version...

[RodB]

I have to admit that the only worm drives I have ever used are Skil Mag 77. They work fine.

But honestly, I almost never actually use a skilsaw for boatbuilding tasks. It is far too crude and imprecise for anything but roughing-out. There's many another tool I would spend the money on first unless I had a specific task for it, or was building a house.

Oh contrar mon ami....

Please ignore this if it's too much of a drift ... but, what is the advantage of a worm drive saw? You can't even buy them in Australia as far as I know so I've never even seen one.

A right handed person can see the blade without leaning over the saw. (I think) the blade turns slower, so there is more torque( that 's why they "twist" a little when they start) with less kick back.
Not for boat work??? Not for yacht joinery , but I ripped (re sawed) all the planking for a 32'er and a 41' strip planked boat. For my type of building (ahem, a bit rough) I use them regularly. Like disc sanders, I have several, so I am not constantly swapping blades.
I used to carry one on my cruiser, but swapped it out( for a 4" paneling saw )only because it was too big , watt wise, to run from my generator.
Two tools that are common as dirt in a pawn shop are sawzall and wormsaw.

An old boat builder long ago told me about using a worm drive saw for cutting panels to shape... as the saw, once running becomes so easy to control on a horizontal surface because of the gyro effect of the motor and blade running on different planes. Try cutting along a long line with one hand..... believe me a heavier worm drive (my Makita Hypoid is great) holds its position and moves so smoothly that you can cut witin a 1/6" with only one hand. It isn't near as easy with the standard sidewinder. Sidewinders with carbide blades can "self steer " a little if you are not careful.

The Worm drive saw allows you to see the blade for a cut... consider I am saying this again three or four times. The power is incredible and sometimes needed... like cutting the exact beveled angle on the side or bottom of a transom you have fabricated. I have found it easier to be precise with my Makita Hypoid than my standard Milwaukee sidewinder. If I had to choose one circular saw, it would be the smaller wormdrives (Makita Hypoid) every time. Granted, its heavier than using the standard sidewinder for cutting off of the horizontal, but with the extra handle, its like a portable cabinet saw compared to a small contractor saw when you are trying to be accurate and steady. I don't build houses...but I sure appreciate the use of a worm drive saw for general use in my work.

I can't imagine not having my Makita for any boat project... (I do use my Hilti 267 sidewinder for my Eurekazone Smartguide system and for my scarfing jig for standard wood stock). I have used a left blade sidewinder and I like them fine, I just think my Makita hypoid is more versatile and an overall more useful saw. Naturally, as in most endeavors... there are many ways to skin a cat.

RodB