Wood question - SYP

[wdbeyer]

Quick question for the wood folks - I'm in a big remodel project here in Winston-Salem. Removing walls in a house built in 1961, true 2"x4" studs that appear to be Southern Yellow Pine. Is it worth de-nailing and saving? The next build after I finish the sharpie is going to be a Harkers Island type skiff. Thinking I might be able to use it for framing?

Thanks!


Wayne

[David G]

Being in the NW... I know much more about douglas fir than SYP. But the older SYP I've seen has been really, really hard. I would think pulling nails out of it would have been a major chore. But, as I say, I'm speculating more than pontificating. It'd probably be lovely wood to use for your framing, if you can get the nails out reasonably easily.

[Draketail]

My draketail keel is recycled SYP, as are the bottom planks and the stern staving. Very durable and a joy to work. Side planks are Doug fir.

[wdbeyer]

Thanks guys, it is some nice stuff, very few nails on most luckily, a few at each end and some small surface nails, nothing crazy.

By the way, I love the draketail!!!!

[Draketail]

Thanks. More info on the draketail here...

http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthre...ight=draketail

[Eddiebou]

One word of caution. Sometimes old yellow pine gets powderpost beetles. Sometimes the holes are difficult to see because they enter/exit straight to the edge or surface, then burrow sideways. Sometimes they are still active even in very old wood. Old pine isn't necessarily "heart-pine". If you have powderpost beetles in it throw it away.
These bugs will get into wood in a house frame, and will contaminate other wood stored nearby. Leave a piece out in the rain and sun and see what happens. Sometimes this old wood will soak up water like a sponge and even though it's been around (dry) for decades, the moisture will activate all manner of mold.
I'm a wood buzzard. I've saved salvaged wood for years only to discover it was full of bugs.
Also, sometimes old wood will get so dry over time that it looses its strength and becomes very brittle. Or maybe you have some really nice stuff!
G'luck

[Bob Smalser]

I would avoid attic rafter and ceiling joist wood, too. Four months of every year at kiln temperatures times 80 or more years is a good recipe for brittle.

For the reasons stated here, I'm not a fan of using reclaimed wood in boats, unless it is from freshly-milled sinkers. Much of it has been too hot and too dry for too long, the lignin has deteriorated accordingly, and the wood has lost much of its resilience necessary for bending and to absorb impacts during service. That's the reason reclaimed wood has a reputation for being "brittle".

[wdbeyer]

Thanks Bob, your input is always appreciated. None of what I have is attic/ceiling framing. I did not notice any brittleness in the wood, but will reconsider using any of it.

[kenjamin]

The main reason I don't use my old SYP from my house remodel in boat building is that it's just too heavy and yes my wood also had some powder post beetle damage as well. Douglas fir is lighter and glues better for boat framing. If your SYP is in really great shape then maybe use it in a boat bottom where the weight is actually an asset – kind of like built-in ballast.

[Jim Ledger]

A word of caution. Longleaf pine is gummy. Your saw blades will gum up in no time, as will jointer knives, router bits, hand planes and so on. Oven cleaner works well on blades. Paint thinner, kerosene, and WD-40 will disolve the pitch on hand tools. Forget about belt sanding, or any kind of sanding for that matter.

Worth pulling a few nails, though.