I'll lam some kind of wee deck beam or ring frame later to hold the helm, and I will scarph the 3/16th deck to carry back , but no sheer clamp or rub rail.
I'll lam some kind of wee deck beam or ring frame later to hold the helm, and I will scarph the 3/16th deck to carry back , but no sheer clamp or rub rail.
Great thread...Thanks!
What's this boat for Wiz? Just for whizzing around in or racing?
Rick
This boat is for getting far away for a short piece of time in a short piece of time.
It is a thrill for me when the boat "breaks out" No passenger can experience it. It is beyond planing.
Most boats begin to porpoise up and down a bit at high speed, and most will trim down, with the engine tilt or with ballast(fuel and batteries), but I seek to
keep the boat on the up side of porpoising. Performance guys know all this. Most boats that break out are obviously bigger boats with MUCH bigger
engines.
The South Puget Sound is where I "go".
Self employed, I can pop her in the water in 20 minutes, any nice day. Calm, sunny days happen here, even in the Winter.
Of course I keep a few sailboats.
No racing, I did race around Vashon Island at dawn on the 4th of July a few times , (with my Aristo Craft),but that is not an official anything.
Others launch kayaks on these nice days while I am launching my" sportabout". I launch faster and do not have to wear a rubber suit. They go for a paddle around the harbor, I go for a 60 mile spin around the south sound.
The boat pulls to one side at halfish throttle, but at WOT , I can let go of the wheel(even lean out and take photos!!), she balances with no pull on the steering wheel. I even remove the zinc trim tab from the motor.
And, building is fun.
black epoxy surplus coating,
I even remove the zinc trim tab from the motor........
you got it bad bro......
Hey Bruce /
Coming right along. I see you are fairing already, no skin of lightweight glass on the bottom for a little ding resistance? I remember fighting for those last few ounces when I was building my slalom sailboards, so I imagine the same for this speedster.
On the speed boards I found that a sharp chine along the rails under my back foot would cause me to 'trip' immediately if I got even a touch sideways to the direction of travel. Instant smackdown! The smallest wavelet could make a big mess of a promising speed run. I took to adding a 1/4" radius to that edge and found it reduced (not eliminated) the crashing problem at speed. Not sure if it affected the MPH but it might have allowed me to hang on a little longer. Have you noticed any similiar issues being motor driven? / Jim
Chas, I think I may just try putting a small radius on the aft side chine, Thanks.
The transom chine, I have found, wants to be sharp.
Yup. Look at a go fast owned by a real enthusiast or someone who races. The chines and strakes are blocked/ground/sanded sharp, sharp sharp. Water breaks cleaner off a sharp edge.The transom chine, I have found, wants to be sharp.
Luking good.
Kevin
This new ship here is fitted according to the reported increase of knowledge among mankind. Namely, she is cumbered end to end with bells and trumpets and clocks and wires. It has been told to me she can call voices out of the air or the waters to con the ship while her crew sleep. But sleep though lightly. It has not yet been told to me that the sea has ceased to be the sea.--Rudyard Kipling
Whad'ya think about rounding the aft side chine a bit Kevin?
Yep, sharp edges. And don't forget "stink stone" - black blown glass insulation blocks available from plumbing and heating suppliers. Called stink stone because it is blown with hydrogen sulfide so while stink stoneing the bottom true flat it stinks. Racing runabout tuners will lay on epoxy extra thick on the last couple feet of the afterplane and then stink stone it - again - and maybe again. Goal, dead flat surface there. A race runabout pushes 60 with a 15 cu in outboard.
Thanks Bill, I know you know which end is up here.
I have flattened/ faired the aft 3 feet of my Aristo craft and Wizbang with 407 and 410 (to where I cannot get a sheet of paper under an aluminum straightedge) and it is the ONLY time you will see me using a "torture board".
So, no on softening the aft side chines?
I'd think a radius on those side chines would be ok. They are out of the water when your humming, so the extra drag created is negligible( for these purposes, and we are talking in degrees of refinement here) and should they enter during a turn, or some chine walk, the radius SHOULD make them more forgiving.
K
This new ship here is fitted according to the reported increase of knowledge among mankind. Namely, she is cumbered end to end with bells and trumpets and clocks and wires. It has been told to me she can call voices out of the air or the waters to con the ship while her crew sleep. But sleep though lightly. It has not yet been told to me that the sea has ceased to be the sea.--Rudyard Kipling
"The transom chine, I have found, wants to be sharp." ... Agreed. Kevin, I don't think giving the chine a little roundover would make her any faster either. If, and only if, she feels a little squirrely at speed then this might help with that, which might enable you to keep your foot on it a little longer.
Wiz, because the boards were glass over foam I wanted the wrap at that point of the rails for stiffness and ding resistance. I would shape the foam to whatever I considered to be the max roundover, glass them, and then build that edge out with 407 to give me some body to shape with. If I did get a ding in this area it took the form of a chip, which was easy to repair and usually didn't compromise the integrity of the skin underneath.
I'm too worn out for that kind of stuff anymore. / Jim
21 inches of freeboard in the cockpit puts you way down in there.
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I love this quick-and-awesome build.
Something is making me crazy, though. It's reminding me of another boat; maybe 16'LOA, open outboard skiff, hatchet bow and the same sort of easily-driven "get up and plane on just the middle bit of the flat bottom" hull. Something I've seen in the last year or two, I just KNOW it, but I can't put my finger on it.
Does anyone know the boat I'm talking about, or have I already been made crazy?
Knowledge: Tomatoes are fruit.
Wisdom: Tomatoes do not belong in fruit salad.
Sweet rear end. Keep at it. Cheers
Oh heck , I forgot to fasten the stringers!
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Last edited by wizbang 13; 04-25-2012 at 07:48 AM.
"dashboard", holes for steering cable, harness, and bilge pump hose.Weather has gone a bit cold, slowing me down.
"Weather has gone a bit cold, slowing me down." .... That's probably a good thing, as you were getting ahead of yourself anyways, LOL.
What part of the sound are you at? / Jim
Still loving this thread.
Is the black finish paint or graphite in epoxy?
The black is an epoxy 2 part" tank coating" I got at a surplus store, (Chimicum, near Port Townsend) 5 gallons for $120. Worth a try. It is like jelly in the can. I did the graphite powder thing with the wee catboat last year, freaking messy to sand. This will no doubt make black dust too. I do not need to save every dime like when I was younger, but for$25 bux a gallon, it is sport. Wish it was white.
loves me some sanding
one coat of west , 105 and 207, 180 with the rumdum orbiter, and 1 coat of cheap one part poly. I'll put a few more poly coats on, cpes the inside, bam. The bottom is fairing out. If the sun comes out next weekend I may need to buy some GAS!!!
You are a machine, Bruce.
"A man builds the best of himself into a boat- builds many of the memories of his ancestors." -Steinbeck
It must be a blur watching him work.
If one advances confidently in the direction of his dreams, and endeavors to live the life which he has imagined, he will meet with a success unexpected in common hours.
-Henry David Thoreau-
Are you keeping a log on hours Bruce? Im 80 hours into a Michalak family skiff, and not being much of an epoxy lover,im still filleting and taping the interior seams.....i think i would be quicker fitting 4 wood stringers.....the epoxy drying is holding me up......and im not looking forward to sanding that crap down.Gotta get back to it....
Not keeping track of hours. I am going slower than wizbang, which was a quickie prontotype from the git go.
You know I do not use tape on the filets, right?
And my sanding techniques are refined for speed. Fer instance, for sanding filets, I glue a slightly oversized disc (hand cut from a sheet of sandpaper) onto a cut down , old thick softpad.( ex. ,6" disc on a 5" pad. ) THIS is a much faster than hand sanding with a cut down broomstick or whatnot.Being a very light boat, it lacks much structure, chine logs, sheer log, stem, and those pesky fastenings. I am careful in my application of epoxy, not messy, and I always use at least 3 knives with a hawk. I hardly ever use gloves, I think they make the job messier. If I get a drip on me, I stop and wash , with "human" solvent, water. You see my shop is open, blowing it out saves hours of cleaning .
Bingos' transom actually leans IN a bit, so I am doubling up on the wedges.
She's gonna be hard to see on some dark night if you somehow, God forbid....
...get UPSIDE DOWN!! LOL. / Jim
Better yet, paint her all black to avoid detection by your local water nazis after dark. Gig Harbor must have a few.
oh yea. bingo" may " just have the same hin and bow numbers as wizbang. whaddya know?
Its amazing how well the restoration is going.
Continuing the old USN tradition of 'rebuilding' old ships when Congress wouldn't authorize new construction, back in the 19th Century...and also along the lines of the recent 'restoration' of Bluenose II, in which the only significant parts reused were a few spars.
Tom
engine is running, linkage is smoothed out, having swapped this motor out from tiller handle model.
The "boxes" have white foam in them.Bilge pump is resurrected from the other boat, it was busted up
How do you obtain such a beautiful fillet seal of epoxy? Do you tape it off first? What exactly is your method of making it fair and smooth?
Yeah, i know you dont use tape....after spot filleting between stitches,i found the hull strong enough to hold together and cut them all out before doing all the interior filleting and taping.....i have come to the conclusion that the 2 layers of tape are probably well over the top in regards to keeping the boat together,but its all good practice before for the next project. I confess to being amazed at how a blob of epoxy can have such a hold between 2 edges of 1/4 in ply. An open workshop like that certainly ,makes for easy sweeping up! Looking forward to the launch pics. Cheers
"beautiful fillet seal of epoxy" , why thanks sleek,first time anyone called my epoxy work beautiful.
tricks/techniques ; I am neat with epoxy. I always mix on a hawk, not a yogurt cup and I use 3, sometimes 4 knives, and I sand them clean every use. no gloves. gloves make the job messier. and I am not convinced that having ones hands sweating inside a gluey glove is safe. Like fat people always drinking diet coke. I sand them with a cut down softpad that has oversized paper, so that the edge of the disc does the cutting. It's a very effective technique.Like the small pad on the right, you can see the paper folded over the edge.
Ahhhh, I can see how that can be effective.... Thank you very much.
I was just fixin to ask for a better explanation of your fillet sanding apparatus. Thanks. I'm enjoying your build.
Chuck Thompson
1955 18' Chris Craft Continental
1950 30' Chris Craft Express
1955 Concordia Yawl #26 (under restoration)
I have a variable speed drill i have been using to knock flat some glass sheathing i have done on the foils.....i will look out another pad and some oversize discs, certainly looks the way to go. Cheers
all the way down, might need s'more wedge
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Impressive pace.